Vada

What's happening at Vada?

We previously reviewed Stoneybatter's Vada, "a neighbourhood café committed to sustainability" for their daytime offering, and while we loved some of their more inventive dishes, we saw room for improvement in others. Last July they started serving dinner from Thursday - Saturday, with a very appealing menu filled with all the lovely things, and a short natural wine list to go with them. Just five months later, the Michelin Guide announced they'd been added to the guide - HUGE news for such a new business, particularly when so many toil for years and never get recognition from the world's most respected restaurant guide.

Michelin noted Vada's daytime offering, but said that "the kitchen steps up a gear in the evening with cooking that is a feast for the eyes and the taste buds ... flavour-packed dishes, like an original venison fattoush salad with baba ganoush." The kitchen powerhouse responsible for this ultra quick ascent to glory is chef Hannah O'Donnell, American-born and previously head chef of The Gallery in Galway, with Kai also on her CV. She has a strong passion for zero waste and sustainable eating, as does owner Sarah Boland (who previously owned vegan burger brand V-Face), so it seems like a match made in heaven.

Where should we sit?

It's a cute, bistro-style room, with dark greens on the walls, dark wood furniture and linen-style café curtains. The wine bottles, art and hanging herbs amp up the neighbourhood cool vibe, but there are more comfortable rooms to be in on a cold night. The premises is old and badly insulated, and we alternated between feeling a draught from the door, and flashes of hot air from a heater working over time. It was also very dimly lit - nice for vibes, less so for reading menus - older diners may need a phone torch.

What should we eat?

You know those menus where every line reads better than the last? Where there isn't one plate you wouldn't order? Where choosing takes extra long because every dish and ingredient is screaming "pick me!" We greedily (and begrudgingly) settled on two 'picky bits', four 'small plates', one large and one side, and with dessert afterwards it was too much. Aim for two, three, one and one for a safer stomach option.

We've had varying experiences with focaccia in Dublin lately, with some a blasphemy on the name, but Vada's (€7.50) is up there with the best. Served warm, the crumb, the crunch, the plump interior - you don't think it can get better, and then you spread some whipped cashew basil cream on top.

Tempura broccoli (€12) arrived at the same time, with romesco and green chilli-laden zhoug, and between the perfection that was the cooking and battering of this broccoli, and the cacophony of flavours leaping off the plate, there was a lot of silence as we ate this, taking it all in.

Another 'picky bit', panisse (€11), came dolloped with feta and crispy onions, just begging to be lobbed into your mouth in one go. This had all the texture contrasts between the deep-fried chickpea snacks (crispy on the outside, smooth in the middle), the creamy feta and the crunchy onions, and we could have eaten many, many more.

Scallops with fennel soubise and blood orange were in the price shock category, at €18 for two scallops (that's even more expensive than Sole, who give three for the same price). They were nicely cooked, but we found the fennel soubise extremely rich, more like a butter sauce than an onion one thickened by béchamel. The fresh fennel and blood orange gave needed freshness, but we would have preferred an overall lighter take.

More (delicious) heaviness followed with the karaage chicken in a (this time literal) butter sauce with pickles. If you're calorie counting you'll want to avoid this. If you're not, it'll be hard to stop digging your fork into that fried chicken and smearing it through that mild, curry scented, very creamy sauce. Thank God for the pickles. We had to ask them to take the plate away to save us from our lack of self control.

We'll make a confident bet that venison with walnut hashweh and tahini isn't on any other menu in the country right now - O'Donnell's food is genuinely unique. Hashweh means stuffing in Arabic, and it's usually a one-pot rice dish, but here she's used nuts, seeds and spices for a Middle Eastern flavour detonation. We needed more of the Blanco Ninos on the side to scoop up that tahini sauce - two crisps was never gona cut it - and topped with sticky, shredded venison, pickled onions and fresh mint, this is another one you'll remember.

We only realised when looking back at pictures that the menu has a note at the bottom saying "a minimum of three dishes (including one large plate) are required per person". It's probably for the best as few things get our backs up more than being told how to eat - does it matter as long as you order enough to justify your seat?? Thankfully it wasn't enforced, and we were let away with our solo Etherson's pork chop with pak choy, miso and turnip.

We love a good pork chop, and this was a very good pork chop, a distant relative of those pallid, grey, chewy creatures on supermarket shelves. The jus, the creamed turnip, the pak choy, we loved every inch of it, but it's relatively high spice levels should have been advertised - we still have no clue where all that heat was coming from, but plenty of water was imbibed in the eating of this dish.

A side of French onion spuds was very clever, caramelised onions drizzled on top of gorgeous, perfectly tender floury potatoes, with a flurry of Gruyère on top.

We had absolutely zero room for dessert and were falling over the line at this stage, stomachs very swollen, but needs must, so forced rhubarb with custard panna cotta and a ginger biscuit it was. It was no more a panna cotta than the table was a tree trunk, just an odd, overly set custard that delivered little pleasure in the eating. The blushing rhubarb saved this dense splodge from being a complete fail.

What is there to drink?

Only wine, the majority of it natural - that's never a problem for us, but the older generations may struggle with it. All of these were right up our street, and we love the pet nats, the Uivo orange, the Xisto Ilimitado and La Nave's Mencia. Need to play it safer? Order the 3 Rios Alvarinho or the Vinasperi Rioja.

How was the service?

In a word, messy. We were frequently without water, cutlery, napkins, twice we ordered wine that didn't arrive, and we spent an inordinate amount of time just trying to get someone's attention, which really cut into our experience. The room seemed well staffed with four people for 12 tables, but every server seemed to be serving every table - if each just focused on three we might have been better looked after.

An initial request to move table away from a sweltering heater was met with resistance, and despite asking that our eight plates were spaced apart so we had time to eat them hot, three arrived within five minutes of ordering, and another two hovered by the kitchen a few minutes later before a server apologetically asked if they could bring them too. We politely declined - they would have had to be placed the floor - but diners shouldn't have to worry that their next courses are being fried under heat lamps while trying to enjoy what's in front of them.

When they brought the bill they had taken off dessert to apologise for the issues during the meal, and while the majority of the staff were lovely and obviously trying their best, the service we had needs sharpening. Hopefully we caught them on a bad night.

What was the damage?

€148.50 before tip for too much food for two and three glasses of wine. A bottle and a second main and you could be heading towards €200 after tip, which is pretty much in line with what you'd pay for this kind of food anywhere (barring Assassination Custard).

What's the verdict on Vada?

Watch this chef - she's on an ascent to big things. Nothing sets a new menu apart like this kind of distinctiveness, food that excites and engrosses, rather than having to read and eat your way through the greatest hits dish compilation that so many fall prey to (while wondering why business is slower than they like). Stoneybatter seems to get cooler by the day, and Vada is its newest tour de force.