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Bang 3.0 has risen from the ashes of its former incarnations with the new guard running the show. Eric Matthews and Richie Barrett made their name with Kicky's, and have now taken over Richie's family restaurant (where the pair originally met) to do it all again, this time with a focus on all things Spanish. Bang Website bangrestaurant.com Address 11 Merrion Row, Dublin, D02 KW61, Ireland Good For Tag 1 Cuisine Tag 1 Once Over Read our Review >> The Story Bang 3.0 has risen from the ashes of its former incarnations with the new guard running the show. Eric Matthews and Richie Barrett made their name with Kicky's, and have now taken over Richie's family restaurant (where the pair originally met) to do it all again, this time with a focus on all things Spanish. Where It's At Nearby Locales Bang Gloria Osteria Cantina Valentina D'Lepak Pera Borgo Amai by Viktor Kaizen Chubbys Badam Table 45 Comet Daruma Malahide Lena The Pig's Ear Notions @ Two Pups The Rooftop @ Anantara The Marker Sofra Little Geno's Mama Shee Nutbutter Smithfield Shaku Maku Mad Yolks Rathmines Una Choux Bakery

Recommendations, information, and advice on where to eat and drink in Dublin. Find Dublin restaurants, pubs, and bars. Find a Restaurant in Dublin Dublin Restaurant Listings Find A Restaurant Navigate ATF's recommended Dublin cafés and restaurants by the neighbourhood you want to eat in, a particular type of cuisine, or what it should be 'good for', like brunch, cheap eats, or special occasion dining. To view everything in one neighbourhood just head back to the drop down in the menu. Neighborhoods Cuisine Good For Reset Filter Oh No! Looks like we don't have any results for that search. But don't worry - good food is out there! Search again to find something wonderful. 3 Leaves Loading... 3fe Five Points Loading... 64 Wine Loading... 777 Loading... A Do Loading... A Fianco Loading... Achara Loading... Afanti Loading... Allta Loading... Alma Loading... Amai by Viktor Loading... Amuri Loading... Amy Austin Loading... Ananda Loading... Andhra Bhavan Loading... Angelina's Loading... Aobaba Loading... Aperitivo Loading... Arty Baker Loading... As One Loading... Join ATF Insiders Make the Most of Every Meal. Join Us

ATF Wine Club with Lilith Wines Drink. Better. Wine. The ATF Wine Club The restaurant quality wines you should be drinking, delivered to your door JOIN THE CLUB ATF X LILITH WINES Get four bottles of restaurant-quality wine delivered to your door each month, selected by us and Lilith Wines . The first time we walked into Sophie Robson's Stoneybatter shop (named after feminist icon Lilith) we knew we were kindred spirits. The shelves heave with the very best wines on the Irish market, and after a browse of the sections on volcanic wines, the Jura, and Cru Beaujolais, we knew this was a passion project first and foremost. Each month’s box will feature four wines that we think you need to try, along with information on how to best enjoy them. We'll also tell you which restaurants have them on the list, helping you drink better when you're out. There might be a theme, or there might just be four delicious bottles with no link. We're aiming to offer the best possible value and you'll never pay more than shop price, with free delivery included (and the option to add on more bottles in the same delivery). Membership will initially be limited to 100 to ensure we can get enough of the wines, some of which are made in very small quantities. Once full we will operate a waiting list. What you get Four wines every month Four wines we're excited about and think you need to try, a mix of sparkling, white, orange, pink or red All the info you need Stories, tasting notes, what to drink it with, and which of your favourite restaurants have it on their wine list Be part of the club Get explainer videos tasting through each wine, invites to exclusive tasting events, and the chance to ask questions €100 per month including delivery October's case (€115 worth of wine!) Somehow we got a Premier Cru red Burgundy into this one The forgotten white grape of Burgundy that's making a comeback A midweek Pinot to have some fun with An incredible value fizz made from the same grape as Champagne SIGN UP TO THE ATF WINE CLUB The T&Cs This is a recurring subscription. Payment will be taken on the 3rd of each month, with cases delivered on the 11th of the month. Subscriptions can be cancelled on Lilith's website at any time, but cancellations received after the 24th of the month won't be effective until the following month (by this stage the wines will have been ordered). Wine selections cannot be tailored. This is a wine club for adventurous drinkers who want to learn about all types and styles.

Where to eat and drink in Dublin, Ireland. Dublin restaurant reviews and reviews of Dublin pubs, cafes, wine bars, and bars. Where to Eat & Drink in Dublin Dublin Restaurant Reviews Once Overs Is a restaurant worth your time and money? Where should you go for a pre-dinner drink? When you get there, where are the best seats? What's good on the menu, and what should you drink with it? Our reviews give restaurants the full once over, from snacks to sides, seating areas to service, and all the cocktails, open kitchens and cheese selections inbetween. Looking for something specific? Filter by neighbourhood, cuisine or 'good for'. Neighborhoods Cuisine Good For Reset Filter Oh No! Looks like we don't have any results for that search. But don't worry - good food is out there! Search again to find something wonderful. Bang 10th February 2026 Vada 27th Jan '26 Gloria Osteria 13th Jan '26 Díon 9th December '25 Cantina Valentina 25th November '25 Terra Madre 11th November 2025 Rei Momo 28th October '25 D'Lepak 14th October '25 Pera 30th September 2025 Kaldero 2 16th September '25 Borgo 2nd Sept '25 Amai by Viktor 19th August '25 Kaizen 5th August '25 Chubbys 23rd July 2025 Comet 8th July 2025 Badam 24th June 2025 Table 45 10th June 2025 The Rooftop at Anantara The Marker 27th May 2025 Square Dish 13th May 2025 Sofra 29th April 2025 Notions @ Two Pups 15th April 2025 The Pig's Ear 1st April 2025 Chob Thai 18th March '25 Lena 4th March 2025 Reggie's Pizzeria 18th February 2025 Join ATF Insiders Make the Most of Every Meal. Join Us

Bang A bang-on ode to Iberian flavours and hospitality Posted: 10 Feb 2026 Neighbourhood Neighborhood Name Address Restaurant Address Website Website Name Restaurant Info View the Listing >> Written by: Ronan Doyle What should we know about Bang? Many of us have been passing these doors for years without the temptation to darken them, as Joe Barrett’s old institution mopped up Merrion Street’s office crowd clientele and corporate lunches, but stayed firmly off the city's hot lists. After bringing the brand back from the (cr)ashes in 2010, he’s made the very good decision to pass the Bang baton onto son Richie and business partner Eric Matthews, who together cooked up quite the storm with Kicky's just over two years ago. It’s a shrewd move on the part of a place in need of a kicking, this time taking cues from the Iberian peninsula - a more homogenous area than the broad “Mediterranean” brief they brought to George’s Street. Barrett and Matthews have brought in Bang 3.0, a different kind of reinvention - this is less a rethink for tighter times, than a glow-up amidst a glut of increasingly good options. instagram.com/bangrestaurant_ Where should we sit? Swapping out cool blues for splashes of red with copper accents, the instantly warmer vibe registers all the more inviting on the kind of miserable mid-winter night it feels like we’re never going to escape. A few steps up from the street, the airy mezzanine has a livelier energy from a restored wall mural and high ceilings, a space to start the night if ever there was one. bangrestaurant.com Downstairs, dimmer lights and cosier crannies are all about finishing things off – you would need to be prised out of here even before the feasting that follows. Thoughtful acoustics and low lamps ensure that for all their relatively dense population, the two-tops have a set-apart sense. Groups will get the benefit of the two larger wraparound booths, all the better to sink into with each passing plate. What should we have? Make right for mussel escabeche (€9.50) to complete the relaxing effect – we practically slid from our seats at first bite. Slathers of stracciatella are pressed with the pickled shellfish, the toast so top-heavy it threatens to topple. There’s no such imbalance in taste, with onion teased to a pre-caramelised point and the herbal hint of fresh fennel tops tempering the tang. The Portuguese dub their steak sandwiches “prego” for the way garlic is studded into the beaten-thin meat like a nail. Bang's "Prego" (€16) hits it right on the head. Super-soft bread greedily sopped in the rare meat’s juices mingles with the nostril-flaring fire of a house mustard, to big up best-in-the-biz beef in the form of Peter Hannan’s 40-day aged fillet. Leaning hard into quality, Bang’s elevation makes every cent of this premium price tag tasteable. From one homage to another, in the instantly iconic tortilla tribute to Barcelona’s Cal Pep (€14.50), from whose owner Matthews says he teased the textural secret of glorious gooiness. Good news for Dublin that he did - this is the best take on an omelette española you’re likely to get without a boarding pass in hand. Gubbeen chorizo flies the flag for local produce, studded in small dice among wafer-thin spuds and sticky-sweet caramelised onions. The pungent potency of a house alioli that isn’t playing around is all that kept us collapsing into a coma with each added bite. It's a choice to have made the fideuà (€14.50), a Valencian pasta paella, sans socarrat – but not, we would argue, the right one. The crunchy crust layer best achieved by a cast iron pan and the confidence not to stir it may have been omitted here to better highlight the perfectly crisp skin of the red mullet perched atop, but in the absence of it the stock-soaked noodles feel a little stodgy. A simple fix in this case is not a quick one. Mains are more akin to Kicky’s than the rest of the menu, courtesy of the wood-fire grill. The sight of secreto (€29) among the options set our eyes wide – in Spain el gato may be long out of la bolsa on this prize cut of Iberico pork, but its rarity on Irish menus had us huddled in hope. Pairing the nutty sweetness of the acorn-fed pig with the lush, buttery tenderness of marbled fat, the cut comes to life with a suitably simple treatment – seared to a crisp and sprinkled with flaky salt. Only over-iced radicchio losing a little bitter balance held this plate back from perfection. Monkfish (€32) can’t bring the same nudge-wink novelty, for all the good the grill’s heat gets out of it. The zing of chimichurri lifts the butter-basted medallions still threaded to the bone, smoky charred skin and soft, sweet meat to the fore in every wrestled forkful. With turbot and red mullet also among the bone-in bounties of the sea gracing the grill since opening, seafood lovers will be thrilled. The battle of Ballymakenny has raged for years as Dublin’s chefs seek to make the best side of these superb spuds, from Coppinger ’s hash brown-style chunky cuts, to Hera ’s taramasalata-topped crisps. For all its menu largely resists the obvious choices, Bang couldn’t but do bravas (€7) with them. They readily yielded the requisite crisp crags, but the interiors were just a little too firm - a shame as our mains sauces were crying out for some mopping. Bang will make a popular date spot so assertive desserts matter – all that alioli will take plenty of masking. The one-two punch power of Jamón ibérico fat caramel and a tooth-clogging hazelnut praline rises to the task, a tableside splash of Pedro Ximénez helping to cut through the intensity of 85% chocolate mousse (€12). This is near indecent stuff, dessert that taps deep reserves of gastric pleasure. Burnt Basque cheesecake (€12) is a dessert so often done a disservice that we’re never inclined to order outside Euskadi for fear of pale and chalky imitations. We rejoiced three years ago to find San Sebastian’s La Vina in the capital by way of Mr Croqueta – Bang's is just as good and better again. Enhanced even more by a baked pear, both cheesecake and fruit are so velvety soft they practically slice themselves at the mere mention of a spoon. The only-in-Ireland creaminess of Ballylisk cheese, and the floral depth of a heather honey sum up the singular appeal of this Hiberno-Iberian hybrid. What’s good to drink? Other than an obligatory glass of Pedro Ximénez to wash down that mousse? The family-focused wine list abandons the all-Iberian theme in favour of some French fancy, but there's plenty of fine stuff on there. BTG options are limited with the better stuff to be had for those sharing a bottle, though Juvé & Camps Gran Reserva 2021 cava (€16) is a brut beauty, even at a hefty margin. This seems to be the case everywhere these days, but we did spot some names that (slightly) undercut Bar Pez , so that's something. House cocktails are on the punchier side at €15 a serve, though there’s enough novelty in the likes of Kerrygold-washed whiskey and onion syrup to turn heads. Happy to see Wicklow’s Móinéir wines in the running we sampled a 'Strawberry Silk Road', and found its Saint Germain pushed things just a little too sweet. How was the service? Parachuting the Kicky’s model into the Bang business brings the advantage of two well-oiled machines in perfect harmony – there wasn’t a hiccup here. With the staff keen to know everything is landing right in the first few weeks, we won’t begrudge the immediate check-ins after every (no, really every ) first bite. Despite the inevitable public transport hurdles at the first hint of rain holding one of us up well into our reservation time, we’d never have known from our unrushed treatment that time was ticking down to the next booking. In a city where such things happen a lot, a little understanding goes a long way. What should we budget? Wining and dining to your heart’s – if not your belt buckle’s – content will see you rack up a €150-€200 bill for a table of two easily, especially with a better bottle. On the dry, you could have a shared main and side, two of the small plates and that all-important escabeche for closer to €40 a head. But life’s too short to be spent staring longingly at the food you didn’t order. Our advice is to round up a gang and get as close to ordering the lot as you can. What’s the verdict on Bang? If you're anything like us your meal here will end with a defeated whimper rather than a Bang, as heavy-lidded eyes proven bigger than now bulging bellies look hopefully upon ice cold digestifs planted down before us to soften the bill's blow. In Spain they call the post-prandial lingering over drinks "sobremesa", meaning "over the table", and that's how you're likely to be sprawled after this Spanish feast. This new ode to the flavours and the fulsome hospitality of the Iberian peninsula is totally bang-on. New Openings & Discoveries More >>

Explore All The Food Dublin: the ultimate guide for Dublin's top restaurant news and reviews. News Michelin comes to Ireland and gives Ireland little to celebrate No three star restaurant, just two new one-stars, lost Bibs, and deletions from the guide Read More Where to Eat & Drink in Dublin All the Food Features Where to eat in February New Michelin stars, new Bib Gourmands, and a coffee shop we'd like to frame so we can gaze at it all day... Read More Reviews The Bang Over Over This ode to Iberia had us ending on more of a defeated whimper than a bang, but that's because everything is just so bang on... Read More What's New News and recommendations. More >> ATF Insiders The Best Seat in the House Unlock exclusive content as an ATF Insider. Join Us Insider Features Special news, events, and features. More >> Insider Perks See all ATF Insider perks More >> Shaka Poké, Baggot St & Blackrock 15% off the bill from Monday - Wednesday. Just show your active subscription. Glas A complimentary side or complimentary dessert cocktail of choice, when dining Sunday to Thursday. Searsons, Baggot Street Complimentary dessert when dining in February. Offer available Monday - Thursday with the purchase of a main course. September, Blackrock 10% off everything Monday - Friday - breakfast, lunch, dinner and wine Mr Fox, Parnell Square Complimentary snack of your choice & Irish coffee to finish when ordering a starter & main course. Available Tue - Fri until 6th Feb Woodruff, Stepaside Complimentary snack of your choice, like organic potato crisps or croquettes, when dining Wednesday, Thursday or Sunday Suertudo, Ranelagh Complimentary churros with Mexican-style chocolate (one per diner with a spend of €45pp or more) Lottie's, Rathmines Complimentary snack of your choice pp when ordering two courses or more, any day or time (mention offer when ordering) Monty's of Kathmandu, Temple Bar 10% off the à la carte menu and drinks from Sunday - Tuesday Mamó, Howth Free portion of the "cod chip" when dining on Monday, Thursday, and Sunday evenings Mani, Dublin 2 15% off the bill at Mani from 12pm - 5pm Monday - Thursday The Seafood Café, Temple Bar 15% off the set menu, Mon-Fri 12pm-6:30pm, and happy hour on oysters all week (€1 off each oyster). Mention offer when ordering Ruchii, Blackrock 10% off wine and cocktails and a complimentary side dish from Sunday - Thursday Cluck Chicken, Dublin 24 20% off the bill all day Tuesday and Thursday Nan Chinese, Dublin 2 15% off the bill from 12-5pm Monday - Friday Brother Hubbard, Dublin 1 20% off the Middle East sharing menu on tables booked directly through reservations@brotherhubbard.ie Load More Insider Perks Recent Reviews Bang 10th February 2026 Vada 27th Jan '26 Gloria Osteria 13th Jan '26 Díon 9th December '25 Where to Drink Right Now More Guides >> See the Sights. Eat the Food. Travel guides and inspiration. Start Exploring Dublin Guides Explore the best of Dublin. More >> Shop for Swag Our Shop >> Last few 'Sláinte' Card Price €4.00 Last few 'We Going On The Sauce' Card Price €4.00 Last few 'Roses are Red, Violets are Blue' Card Price €4.00 Last few 'We're The Perfect Mix' Card Out of stock Last one! 'Grá' Card Out of stock ATF Insiders Yearly Gift Subscription - Digital Price €65.00 ATF Insiders Yearly Gift Subscription - Posted Price €65.00 New stock! 'Where's The Food' Tote Bag Price €12.00 New stock! 'There's Probably Food In Here' Tote Bag Price €12.00 Low stock! Notebook - People who love to eat are always the best people Out of stock Last one! Notebook - First I eat the food, then I do the things Out of stock

Exclusive Access to Guides, News, Reviews & Events All the Food: Insiders Exclusive ATF Insider perks Shaka Poké, Baggot St & Blackrock 15% off the bill from Monday - Wednesday. Just show your active subscription. Glas A complimentary side or complimentary dessert cocktail of choice, when dining Sunday to Thursday. Searsons, Baggot Street Complimentary dessert when dining in February. Offer available Monday - Thursday with the purchase of a main course. September, Blackrock 10% off everything Monday - Friday - breakfast, lunch, dinner and wine Mr Fox, Parnell Square Complimentary snack of your choice & Irish coffee to finish when ordering a starter & main course. Available Tue - Fri until 6th Feb Woodruff, Stepaside Complimentary snack of your choice, like organic potato crisps or croquettes, when dining Wednesday, Thursday or Sunday Suertudo, Ranelagh Complimentary churros with Mexican-style chocolate (one per diner with a spend of €45pp or more) Lottie's, Rathmines Complimentary snack of your choice pp when ordering two courses or more, any day or time (mention offer when ordering) Monty's of Kathmandu, Temple Bar 10% off the à la carte menu and drinks from Sunday - Tuesday Mamó, Howth Free portion of the "cod chip" when dining on Monday, Thursday, and Sunday evenings Mani, Dublin 2 15% off the bill at Mani from 12pm - 5pm Monday - Thursday The Seafood Café, Temple Bar 15% off the set menu, Mon-Fri 12pm-6:30pm, and happy hour on oysters all week (€1 off each oyster). Mention offer when ordering Ruchii, Blackrock 10% off wine and cocktails and a complimentary side dish from Sunday - Thursday Cluck Chicken, Dublin 24 20% off the bill all day Tuesday and Thursday Nan Chinese, Dublin 2 15% off the bill from 12-5pm Monday - Friday Brother Hubbard, Dublin 1 20% off the Middle East sharing menu on tables booked directly through reservations@brotherhubbard.ie Load More See all offers News, features and events

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Exclusive ATF Insider perks More benefits for you from some of Dublin's best restaurants, from complimentary drinks and snacks when dining out, to discounts on the bill. Log into the website and show your active subscription to claim them. Make sure to quote ATF Insiders when booking. Join ATF Insiders Shaka Poké, Baggot St & Blackrock 15% off the bill from Monday - Wednesday. Just show your active subscription. Go to website Glas A complimentary side or complimentary dessert cocktail of choice, when dining Sunday to Thursday. Go to website Searsons, Baggot Street Complimentary dessert when dining in February. Offer available Monday - Thursday with the purchase of a main course. Go to website September, Blackrock 10% off everything Monday - Friday - breakfast, lunch, dinner and wine Go to website Mr Fox, Parnell Square Complimentary snack of your choice & Irish coffee to finish when ordering a starter & main course. Available Tue - Fri until 6th Feb Go to website Woodruff, Stepaside Complimentary snack of your choice, like organic potato crisps or croquettes, when dining Wednesday, Thursday or Sunday Go to website Suertudo, Ranelagh Complimentary churros with Mexican-style chocolate (one per diner with a spend of €45pp or more) Go to website Lottie's, Rathmines Complimentary snack of your choice pp when ordering two courses or more, any day or time (mention offer when ordering) Go to website Monty's of Kathmandu, Temple Bar 10% off the à la carte menu and drinks from Sunday - Tuesday Go to website Mamó, Howth Free portion of the "cod chip" when dining on Monday, Thursday, and Sunday evenings Go to website Mani, Dublin 2 15% off the bill at Mani from 12pm - 5pm Monday - Thursday Go to website The Seafood Café, Temple Bar 15% off the set menu, Mon-Fri 12pm-6:30pm, and happy hour on oysters all week (€1 off each oyster). Mention offer when ordering Go to website Ruchii, Blackrock 10% off wine and cocktails and a complimentary side dish from Sunday - Thursday Go to website Cluck Chicken, Dublin 24 20% off the bill all day Tuesday and Thursday Go to website Nan Chinese, Dublin 2 15% off the bill from 12-5pm Monday - Friday Go to website Brother Hubbard, Dublin 1 20% off the Middle East sharing menu on tables booked directly through reservations@brotherhubbard.ie Go to website Join ATF Insiders

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Volpe Nera Barry sun's stunner in the suburbs Posted: 21 Jul 2020 Neighbourhood Neighborhood Name Address Restaurant Address Website Website Name Restaurant Info View the Listing >> Written by: Lisa Cope What’s the story? When news broke last November that Etto head chef Barry Sun was departing stage left, it was met with shock and surprise from the industry and the Merrion Row restaurant's regulars, but it was short-lived once it transpired that he was opening his own place in Blackrock. We weren't sure what to expect from his first solo outing - Etto's food is somewhere between Irish and Italian, something Sun clearly excels at, but being originally from China would we see more Asian influences when he went it alone? The original menu looked very much in tune with Etto's Mediterranean sensibility, with a couple of well-placed Asian touches, like oysters with chilli oil and mushroom dumplings in an aged soya broth, and after a PR-fuelled blaze of publicity the critics descended one after the other. Reports were glowing, locals were flocking, and all was right with the restaurant world. Then 'you know what' happened (cue: Doomsday music). They were quick to launch Volpe Nera at home, which was one of our favourite lockdown food experiences , so we knew where we were heading once restaurants reopened. Where should we sit? Originally the restaurant was a 50-seater spread over two floors, with table and bar seating, but some of the tables have been taken out and the bar seating is now gone, so we'd estimate it to be more of a 28-30 seater. Both floors feel snug and intimate, and though the grey palette probably won't be to everyone's taste, we found it quite calming. There's slightly more action downstairs where you can see into the kitchen each time the door opens, but upstairs feels a bit more private if you want to have a 'D and M'. What's the food like? If you love Etto (does anyone not love Etto?) you'll love Volpe Nera, as the underlying sensibility around ingredients and how they're put together (with taste as the number one priority) is very similar. There are lots of familiar looking dishes on the menu, so much like Mamó felt like Etto by the sea, Volpe Nera feels like Etto in the suburbs - and there are few greater compliments. Our favourite menus start with snacks (any excuse to order more food) and there's five to choose from here, including bread and cep mushroom butter ( we had it , you need to), oysters, smoked almonds and olives. We went for the salted hake and preserved lemon croquettes (is there a more perfect summer snack?) and the unusual sounding Ossocollo Reale al Brulé, which is a type of cured meat made from the neck of the pig. A light hand with a little olive oil and lemon dressing took the delicate, silky meat to the next level, with the house pickles ideal for cutting through the fat. We're not sure what they did to make the chargrilled crostini with olive oil taste so much better than any other chargrilled bread we've had before, but we've made it our mission to find out. The stracciatella in Etto has always been a city benchmark for how the Italian soft, stringy cheese should taste, so we couldn't resist it on the menu here. Sun serves his with in-season tomatoes, including a slice of pineapple tomato underneath, basil (fresh and oil), balsamic pearls and crunchy discs of bread, and it's about as perfect a summer plate of food as you can imagine. There's a new stracciatella contender in town. Our other starter has become something of a Volpe Nera signature (read: take it off the menu at your peril lads), and is the main dish showing Sun's Chinese background (we're quietly hopeful there will be more from this canon over time). Handmade mushroom dumplings come in an aged soya broth with pickled fennel and lovage, and if you're a fan of umami in high doses, this needs to go on your must-try list. You'll be tasting it for days afterwards. For mains we'd been ooohing over the spinach and ricotta malfatti (dumplings, whose name means 'badly formed') in various incarnations since the opening menu, and on the night we were there it came with confit egg yolk, courgette gremolata, pine nuts and sage. It lived up to its billing, and while the dumplings are dense, the vinegary diced courgette, crunchy pine nuts and silky egg yolk made this dish worth the months of waiting and thinking about it. Our other main was sucking pig with morcilla, braised endive and romesco, and while meat and veg dishes can all too often be all too boring, this was in a league of its own. If we could cook pork like this at home - pink and perfectly tender - we might never go out again, with the vegetables just cooked, and the morcilla and smoky, nutty romesco adding welcome interest to the plate. Desserts were enjoyable but slightly less exciting than what had come before. A Granny Smith sponge came with dehydrated apple slices and Calvados ice-cream, and another of poached peach came with roast white chocolate, pistachio and PX sherry. They were both perfectly nice dishes, but you get the feeling that this chef's passion lies more in savoury than in sweet. What about the drinks? The pre-dinner drinks list is excellent, which is a good thing as you won't be going to a pub beforehand. Vermouth and soda, white port and tonic and five different types of sherry all feature, as well as Bellinis and Kir Royales. The wine list is very nicely curated with plenty we wanted to drink on there, like Blankbottle's Moment of Silence, Rijckaert's Jura Savagnin, and Raul Perez' Ultreia St Jacques Mencia, but we would have liked to see a few more interesting options by the glass - presumably they're catering for the local market. We tried the Saint-Veran Chardonnay from Domaine Simonin and the Albarino from Bodegas Alto De Torono, and both were lovely - the Saint-Veran in particular was dynamite with the cured meat and pickles at the start. They also serve Fritz-Muller's very drinkable non-alcoholic Riesling if you're driving from across the city and don't want to be left out. And the service? Staff were all masked, but it had no bearing on their warmth and hospitality, and it's amazing how quickly you forget about them. The lack of loud music probably helped too, as we had no difficulty hearing anyone or communicating back and forth. Food was perfectly paced and we never felt in a rush to move (although presumably if there had been someone waiting for our table we would have known about it). This feels like an operation that's very much together, and when a waitress mortifyingly managed to drop a load of plates on the floor, it was met with humour and sympathy as opposed to any type of scolding. The verdict? Stick Volpe Nera on your bucket list, and make it a point to get here fast. The city is in a very strange place right now, and while the suburbs may appear to be holding up better than the city centre, this is exactly the type of place we want to survive the coming months and spiral ever upwards once things (eventually) get back to normal. We are eminently envious of anyone who has this as their new neighbourhood restaurant, but it's one of those rare ones which makes driving from the other side of the city completely worth the effort. Volpe Nera 22 Newtown Park, Newtownpark, Blackrock, Co. Dublin volpenera.ie New Openings & Discoveries More >>

John Farrell’s modern Mexican 777 opened in 2012 and is still as heaving as ever, thanks to innovative, ever-changing small plates and excellent margaritas. Sunday is the best day to visit when selected dishes are €7.77, and the covid born 'Afuera' area out the back is now a permanent fixture. They only take bookings for more than six people. 777 Website 777.ie Address Unit 7, Castle House, South Great George’s Street, Dublin 2 Good For Tag 1 Cuisine Tag 1 Once Over Read our Review >> The Story John Farrell’s modern Mexican 777 opened in 2012 and is still as heaving as ever, thanks to innovative, ever-changing small plates and excellent margaritas. Sunday is the best day to visit when selected dishes are €7.77, and the covid born 'Afuera' area out the back is now a permanent fixture. They only take bookings for more than six people. Where It's At Nearby Locales Gloria Osteria Cantina Valentina D'Lepak Pera Borgo Amai by Viktor Kaizen Chubbys Badam Table 45 Comet Daruma Malahide Lena The Pig's Ear Notions @ Two Pups The Rooftop @ Anantara The Marker Sofra Little Geno's Mama Shee Nutbutter Smithfield Shaku Maku Mad Yolks Rathmines Una Choux Bakery Parnell Street Bakery

This 14-seater Indian/Nepalese under a bridge in Clontarf was one of our favourite finds of 2025. It feels like being invited to someone’s house for dinner, who’s cooked every ounce of your meal from scratch, grinding spices and kneading naan. Badam’s food is alive with flavour, and they do takeaway at a reduced price if you want to try it at home. Badam Website badam.ie Address Badam Indian and Nepalese Cuisine, Howth Road, Clontarf West, Dublin 3, Ireland Good For Tag 1 Cuisine Tag 1 Once Over Read our Review >> The Story This 14-seater Indian/Nepalese under a bridge in Clontarf was one of our favourite finds of 2025. It feels like being invited to someone’s house for dinner, who’s cooked every ounce of your meal from scratch, grinding spices and kneading naan. Badam’s food is alive with flavour, and they do takeaway at a reduced price if you want to try it at home. Where It's At Nearby Locales Gloria Osteria Cantina Valentina D'Lepak Pera Borgo Amai by Viktor Kaizen Chubbys Badam Table 45 Comet Daruma Malahide Lena The Pig's Ear Notions @ Two Pups The Rooftop @ Anantara The Marker Sofra Little Geno's Mama Shee Nutbutter Smithfield Shaku Maku Mad Yolks Rathmines Una Choux Bakery Parnell Street Bakery

One of the best places for dim sum in Dublin, with prices that make it accessible any day of the week. They have an à la carte mainly Cantonese menu too, but the dim sum is what most people come for. Don’t miss the mince pork crystal dumplings, stir-fried mooli cake and the BBQ pork rice noodle rolls. Ka Shing Website ka-shing.site Address 12A Wicklow Street, Dublin 2 Good For Tag 1 Cuisine Tag 1 Once Over Read our Review >> The Story One of the best places for dim sum in Dublin, with prices that make it accessible any day of the week. They have an à la carte mainly Cantonese menu too, but the dim sum is what most people come for. Don’t miss the mince pork crystal dumplings, stir-fried mooli cake and the BBQ pork rice noodle rolls. Where It's At Nearby Locales Gloria Osteria Cantina Valentina D'Lepak Pera Borgo Amai by Viktor Kaizen Chubbys Badam Table 45 Comet Daruma Malahide Lena The Pig's Ear Notions @ Two Pups The Rooftop @ Anantara The Marker Sofra Little Geno's Mama Shee Nutbutter Smithfield Shaku Maku Mad Yolks Rathmines Una Choux Bakery Parnell Street Bakery

Ristorante Romano Old-school Italian that's so satisfying Posted: 18 Apr 2018 Neighbourhood Neighborhood Name Address Restaurant Address Website Website Name Restaurant Info View the Listing >> Written by: Lisa Cope What’s the story? Romano's has been on Capel Street (in its current form) since the 1980's, but you don't see much of it on social media, or hear it mentioned when people talk about the 'must-try' restaurants in Dublin. Until Tom Doorley reviewed it in the Daily Mail a few weeks ago we hadn't heard the name for a long time, but suddenly it seems to be having a revival, with people remembering how good it was. Armed with warnings that it might be more 'Irish-Italian' than nuanced Tuscan or Venetian, we went with empty stomachs, eager to taste some homemade egg pasta. Where’s good for a drink beforehand? Panti Bar is a few doors down if you feel like a Cosmopolitan and some Girls Aloud. For a pint, Slattery's , McNeill's or The Boar's Head are all good options on Capel Street. For wine your best bet is probably Bagots Hutton around the corner on Ormond Quay. What’s the room like? There's a fine line between unattractively old-fashioned and quaint, and Romano's is on the right side of it. It feels like stepping into one of those family-run Tavernas off a square in a little Italian town, when you know the room is exactly as it was 30 years ago. Paper napkins, paper tablecloths, candles dripping with wax, an electric fan on the counter - it all just screams holidays, and you forgive a lot on holidays. What's good to eat? The menu is pretty simple, which in this case made things easier. Starters of bruschetta and garlic bread (that non-Italian favourite) were both excellent, the bruschetta toppings fresh and flavoursome, and the generous, oozing garlic bread, the most comforting thing we've eaten in ages (maybe not one for first dates). Pasta is hand-made each day, and all three that we tried were hard to fault, with the fresh, perfectly chewy pasta the star of each dish. Spaghetti Bolognese was one of those rare examples that doesn't disappoint, the type you try to perfect at home by letting it simmer for 58 hours but it's still never quite as good as you wanted. This one is. Pasta Amatriciana with chilli and bacon was beautifully simple, with a really good tomato sauce, a generous amount of bacon and a perfectly balanced chilli kick. The standout dish, the one that's calling us back, was the pasta with prawns, garlic and basil. A dish of few ingredients but bags of flavour. The kind of simple perfection you might expect for dinner if you went to the house of an Italian friend who takes their food seriously. Pizza is the kind your Dad would like - thin and crispy with none of this sourdough, blistered-crust type nonsense. More Roman than Neapolitan, but there's definitely a place for thin-based pizza and the 'Romano's Special' was light, generous and highly enjoyable. There are places to go for more interesting toppings or fresh oregano rather than dried, but if you know what you're getting you won't be disappointed, because the food is just so satisfying. There's a bit of the Irish-Italian about it, but it reminded us of going to Italian restaurants as a child, being knocked out by the smell of garlic and thinking it was the best meal you'd ever had in your whole entire life and when can we go back please. Guttingly, the Tiramisu had sold out by the time we got to dessert. When we got there the place was full of people taking advantage of the ridiculously good value early-bird (€14.95 for three courses), and they'd nabbed it all - at least we know it's made fresh every morning. We tried the pavlova with fresh fruit instead, which was fine if forgettable, and another retro childhood throwback. That could be one of the reasons why we felt so warm and content all night - memories of happy times. What about the drinks? The most expensive wine on the list is €23, and you can get a 500ml carafe of house for €10, but like most things in life, you get what you pay for. Neither of the two whites we tried (both Trebbiano) were up to much (make sure they are very chilled, it helps), and the red, a Chianto Classico, was fine with food, less so without. We all had headaches the next day, which after 3 glasses of wine is not a good sign, and usually results from drinking more industrially made, mass produced wines. And the service? Very pleasant, but basic - no-one's going to offer you a taste of the wine to make sure it's not faulty. Saying that, we're pretty sure that if you did have a complaint it would be whipped away quick-smart. Romano himself was on the floor taking orders, and every other staff member we encountered had nothing but smiles and a helpful demeanour. Time ran away with us towards the end of the night, but rather than asking us to leave they just started hoovering around us, which seemed to further reinforce the feeling of being in a little Italian town rather than on Capel Street. The verdict? This is simple, incredibly comforting Italian food. Wild boar and truffles it is not, and some parts of the menu may be designed to appeal to the Irish palate (garlic bread, we're looking at you) rather than focusing on authentic Italian cooking, but the pasta is faultless and the flavours are big. We might not be picking it for a special occasion meal, but for something inexpensive that feels like a giant hug it's a very solid choice. So much focus these days goes into new openings and new, young chefs on the scene. It's nice to find someone who's been quietly doing the same things day in day out for years, and doing a great job of it. Just make sure you get a piece of that tiramisu before the early birds nab it all. Risorante Romano 12 Capel St, Dublin 1 ristoranteromano New Openings & Discoveries More >>

Assassination Custard Small, seasonal and perfectly formed Posted: 2 Aug 2018 Neighbourhood Neighborhood Name Address Restaurant Address Website Website Name Restaurant Info View the Listing >> Written by: Lisa Cope What’s the story? Ken Doherty and Gwen McGrath's tiny restaurant on Kevin Street in Dublin 8 is probably on the radar of most self-respecting Dublin foodies, but because they only open for lunch Tuesday - Friday we know just a handful of people who've managed to get there. The limited opening hours are to allow them to have a manageable family life and see their two children, but they do occasionally do pop-up dinners, like the one at Green Man Wines a few months ago which sold out almost as quickly as it was announced, and we hear you can book the space (and the chefs) for private parties in the evening. Both Ken and Gwen had worked in places before where produce is king (Good Things Café, Café Paradiso, Dax), and it's the same in Assassination Custard. Vegetables come from McNally Family Farm, with Ken himself often cycling to collect them, and meat is locally sourced. Offal appears regularly. A fter very complimentary reviews this year in the Irish Times and the Irish Examiner (and from everyone we know who's been there) we thought it was time for a midweek pilgrimage. What’s the room like? Teeny, with a max of 12 covers we're told (if even). There's one long rectangular table that fits three, and another round table where you can expect to sit with strangers, which is all part of the fun. We would definitely advise getting here as close to opening as possible, unless you're not in a rush. By 12:30 they were full with four people outside baying for seats. Despite this there's no feeling that they're trying to turn tables at lightning speed and the whole things is very relaxed, like having been invited into someone's kitchen who's going to make you the lunch of your life. What's good to eat? The hand-written menu changes daily depending on what produce they can get their hands on, but we'd be surprised to find a dud dish, and it always reflects what's in season. The panelle (pronounced pah-nell-eh) seem to be constant - savoury, salty slices of addictiveness made from chickpea flour before being deep-fried. It would be very easy to do a portion per person. From the other dishes on the menu that day we loved the fish pickle with homemade piccalilli, the oily tuna and anchovies lifted and balanced out by the vinegary pickle, which made for a perfect palate kickstarter, the juices mopped up with their chargrilled, homemade bread. We also loved the jalapeños with labneh, the thick, creamy yoghurt a perfect accompaniment to the charred, occasional fiery hot peppers (there's a bit of Russian roulette involved with the McNally jalapeños). A steaming bowl of chickpeas with sobrasada was so simple and so comforting, particularly on a cold, wet day in July (the return of the Irish summer), and is the kind of basic but brilliant dish that makes you pledge to start making it at home. Pointed cabbage with tahini sauce, Sichuan peppercorns and a dusting of curry powder was a deliciously brilliant example of what can be done when vegetables are put centre stage. The dessert option when we were there was flan covered in a thick caramel sauce, which tasted like the filling from the richest, densest cheesecake. They're famous for their "ugly but good" meringues with coriander and hazlenuts but they weren't on that day. If you see one, grab one. We ate most of the menu and the bill came to just over €40, which was really good value for food of this quality. What about the drinks? They only serve chilled tap water and coffee, but you can BYO for free. And the service? Wonderfully warm, almost like being entertained in someone's home. It's just Gwen and Ken, and they talk diners through the menu, making suggestions when asked and delivering the dishes to the table. There's a really intimate atmosphere because of the size and you get the feeling that nothing would be too much trouble. The verdict? A really special place for lunch that's well worth a midweek detour to Dublin 8. If you like eating with the seasons and food that comes from as close to the source as possible, you'll fall in love with Assassination Custard as soon as you walk through the door. If you can round up a gang of family and friends and take over the space for an evening, even better. That's something that's just gone to the top of our food-related wish list - although unsurprisingly we hear they're quite booked up for the next few months. Assassination Custard 19A Kevin Street Lower, Wood Quay, Dublin assassinationcustard New Openings & Discoveries More >>

Fellini's All about the pizza in Deansgrange Posted: 12 Nov 2019 Neighbourhood Neighborhood Name Address Restaurant Address Website Website Name Restaurant Info View the Listing >> Written by: Lisa Cope What’s the story? Let's get one thing off our chests. The only reason we made a pilgrimage to Fellini's in Deansgrange near Blackrock is because the anonymous ' Pizzas Of Dublin ' Instagram account said it was the best pizza they'd had in the city so far. If that's not enough to have us whipping out the phone to make a booking what is. Fellini's is very much under the radar when it comes to Dublin's restaurants. It seems like your typical neighbourhood Italian, and apart from one (albeit glowing) review from Lucinda O'Sullivan in the Sunday Independent in 2015, they haven't exactly managed to clock up the column inches since being opened by Emilia Macari and Paolo Di Adamo in 2014. We set off like voyagers to new lands, hoping for the discovery of a lifetime. Where should we go for a drink first? There's one pub nearby called The Grange which we did not frequent but looks like old-man central. Apart from that you're in between a pet shop and a car garage so it's not exactly rife for cocktails. Have a drink at home or wherever you're coming from. What's the room like? Compact and cosy with only 28 seats. Definitely make a booking as it fills up fast. It's not the most luxurious of surroundings, which means you're unlikely to settle in for the night, and that's probably how they want it. If you have a choice opt for a window table. You won't be looking at canals but still... What's good to eat? Clearly we were here for the pizza, but wanted to take the rest of the menu for a test drive too. We started with homemade arancini, and were pleasantly surprised at how good they were - perfect rice with a bite, oozing cheese and a crispy shell. We were expecting meat inside too, but then after two out of three had been eaten they brought a small plate of bolognese that they said should have come on the plate. It was bland and muted and didn't add anything to the dish, so it wasn't much of a loss. The garlic mayonnaise that came on the plate (however unorthodox) was better dipping foil. Bruschetta had good bread and olive oil but the hunt for ripe, sun-drenched tomatoes continues (they also needed salt), and if you're wondering where all the balsamic glaze from the 1990's went, they have it in Fellini's. We tried three pizzas, and left kicking ourselves for one of them not being a margherita. The base on all of them was perfect, expertly cooked, great crumb and good chew. For a more in depth analysis on topics including hydration see what Pizzas Of Dublin had to say here . The tartufato with mushrooms, truffle, sausage meat and parmesan had tonnes of well-married flavour but was very rich. One to share or take some home, or you might end up with the late night truffle sweats. The 'vegetariana' showed the quality of the bright tomato sauce and creamy mozzarella to full effect, hence post-eating margherita-missing regret, but at least we got some of our five-a-day. Then came the curveball. We'd ordered the 'Caprese DOC' thinking it would be similar to a margherita, but it was more like a flatbread with caprese salad on top. Once you get past the "where's my delicious tomato sauce and melty cheese!" shock and reframe your thinking, it was excellent. The tomatoes tasted riper than those on the bruschetta, the mozzarella was first rate and so was the olive oil drizzled over the top. And no balsamic glaze, winning. On a summer's day at an outside table this would be hard to beat. We tried a token pasta 'Norcina', with minced Italian sausage, tomato, cream and parmesan cheese, and while it was enjoyable (if again very heavy) it wouldn't be the thing drawing us back, and we imagine it wouldn't be too difficult to make something similar at home. There were other specials on the night which also sounded appealing, so if returning we'd be tempted to give those a try. Dessert of tiramisu was of the 'child-friendly' i.e. no alcohol variety, and was as good as any in this category we've tried. Properly soaked sponge, creamy and chocolatey, but we do miss the Marsala in these teetotal versions. Another dessert of canoli, tube shaped shells of fried pastry dough filled with sweetened mascarpone cheese, was slightly less successful. The tubes had either been pre-filled (a cardinal mistake) or weren't fresh enough, and lacked the essential crispness that make canoli so addictive. The best we've had here are found in Dolce Sicily if you want to try the real deal - but always ask for one to be filled fresh when you order. What about the drinks? The wine list is mostly suburban central but there are some very respectable bottles on there so you won't be stuck for something to drink, and the prices are the type rarely found on wine lists these days. We drank a very acceptable catarratto for under €25, and also tried a glass of nero d'avola. Both tasted like really good house wine, with prices to match. A limoncello brought with the bill was a lovely touch, but it wasn't cold enough, which made drinking it more of a hardship than it should have been. And the service? Lovely. Polite, welcoming, helpful. Couldn't fault it. The verdict? Italian food is still an Irish favourite judging by our mailboxes and the amount of message that come in looking for recommendations for "a nice Italian". Fellini's is a nice, neighbourhood Italian, and while there are more exciting places to eat regional Italian food in the city (who threw the balsamic glaze in the bin long ago), they have the pizza nailed. For this and a bottle of decent Nebbiolo or Etna Rosso we'd be back. Fellini's 35 Dean's Grange Road, Kill of the Grange, Blackrock, Co. Dublin fellinisdublin.com New Openings & Discoveries More >>

This ultra-charming Brazilian café in Temple Bar is like a chink of sunlight in a land of twee music and over-priced pints. Run by an Irish/Brazilian couple, you’ll find chewy tapioca wraps filled with Brazilian sausage and Irish cheese, bright and beautiful açaí bowls, and Brazilian snacks like pão de queijo and chicken coxinhas, all delivered by beaming staff who make you feel like you’re being welcomed into their home. The homemade cakes and multi-flavoured brigadeiros are a reason to visit on their own. Toca Tapioca Website tocatapioca.com Address 49 Fleet Street, Temple Bar, Dublin 2 Good For Tag 1 Cuisine Tag 1 Once Over Read our Review >> The Story This ultra-charming Brazilian café in Temple Bar is like a chink of sunlight in a land of twee music and over-priced pints. Run by an Irish/Brazilian couple, you’ll find chewy tapioca wraps filled with Brazilian sausage and Irish cheese, bright and beautiful açaí bowls, and Brazilian snacks like pão de queijo and chicken coxinhas, all delivered by beaming staff who make you feel like you’re being welcomed into their home. The homemade cakes and multi-flavoured brigadeiros are a reason to visit on their own. Where It's At Nearby Locales Gloria Osteria Cantina Valentina D'Lepak Pera Borgo Amai by Viktor Kaizen Chubbys Badam Table 45 Comet Daruma Malahide Lena The Pig's Ear Notions @ Two Pups The Rooftop @ Anantara The Marker Sofra Little Geno's Mama Shee Nutbutter Smithfield Shaku Maku Mad Yolks Rathmines Una Choux Bakery Parnell Street Bakery

One of the more authentic Chinese restaurants in the city, with a focus on dishes from the Szechuan province. All the reliables are there, but steer away towards the chef's recommendations for the real deal, like sliced whelk with scallions and soft shell crab in egg yolk batter. The green beans are one of the city's must-try dishes, as are the homemade dumplings and the deep-fried seabass. M and L Chinese Website mlchineserestaurant.com Address 13/14 Cathedral Street, Dublin 1 Good For Tag 1 Cuisine Tag 1 Once Over Read our Review >> The Story One of the more authentic Chinese restaurants in the city, with a focus on dishes from the Szechuan province. All the reliables are there, but steer away towards the chef's recommendations for the real deal, like sliced whelk with scallions and soft shell crab in egg yolk batter. The green beans are one of the city's must-try dishes, as are the homemade dumplings and the deep-fried seabass. Where It's At Nearby Locales Gloria Osteria Cantina Valentina D'Lepak Pera Borgo Amai by Viktor Kaizen Chubbys Badam Table 45 Comet Daruma Malahide Lena The Pig's Ear Notions @ Two Pups The Rooftop @ Anantara The Marker Sofra Little Geno's Mama Shee Nutbutter Smithfield Shaku Maku Mad Yolks Rathmines Una Choux Bakery Parnell Street Bakery

The Dunmore Rathmines' newest bar and restaurant brings seaside chill to the suburbs Posted: 12 Dec 2023 Neighbourhood Neighborhood Name Address Restaurant Address Website Website Name Restaurant Info View the Listing >> Written by: Ronan Doyle What should we know about The Dunmore? In welcome contrast to certain other, flashier recent arrivals, Rathmines' newest bar and restaurant The Dunmore opened its doors at the start of the month with lit tle fanfare . There was no glitzy queue of influencers sharing suspiciously generous servings, just the quiet word of some locals pleased to see a new neighbour open for business. (c) The Dunmore It’s the Dublin debut of brother-sister duo Clifden and Louise Foyle, who’ve built themselves a reputation for premium Irish hospitality at Waterford’s Strand Inn Hotel . From the top-tier fitout they’ve given this cavernous space, to the team they’ve assembled to serve it, we get the sense they’re looking to bring that same sense of coastal chill to the city suburbs. Where should we sit? Even if you’d spent some time in the Bowery pub that previously occupied this building, you might not be able to hold back from mouthing a wow at the way The Dunmore opens up before you on entry. A low-lit lounge area flanks the front doors and extends to the small loft above, all cosy wing chairs and mahogany panelling: an intimate space that screams out for a pre-or post-dinner drink. Things get more expansive as you move through the narrow but suddenly very open room – the building is much longer than wide, but the high arched ceiling that towers above gives the dining area to the rear an airy openness that never leaves the space feeling crowded. There’s an abundance of artwork on the walls of this back area, every nook and cranny given its own distinctive colour pop. Big wraparound booths for groups of up to six flank the right wall, with two and four-tops arranged along the left - both are a good mix of comfort and vantage point. Down the centre, there’s a scattering of two-seaters we’d steer clear of if you can to avoid the two-lane traffic passing on either side. (c) The Dunmore What’s on the menu? Quite a bit of seafood – their years at the southeast seaside have certainly given The Dunmore’s team their pick of the waves, and they’ve carried plenty of that experience into this suburban menu with a few Strand Inn favourites cropping up. They’ve also brought onboard ex- Asador chef Josef Cervenka, whose influence seems clear in the charcoal oven options dotted through the menu’s sections. We put that to the test with the starter of crispy chicken, marinated in buttermilk and chili, and served over charred baby gem with a dollop of romesco (€12). As appetisers go this is utterly on-point - tender thigh meat perfectly rendered beneath the chargrilled skin, a rich and fatty flavour that leaves you longing for more. Where the lettuce lightens things a touch, we did find the romesco a little redundant, its muted spicing lost amidst the chili already there in the chicken – an added vinegar kick could have made all the difference. No surprise for a seaside restaurant, Kilmore Quay crab claws (€18) are a Strand Inn staple, and one they’ve wisely carried over. These are great, the meat’s sweetness finding a suitable foil in the pond of garlic butter it’s served swimming in, with a just-right squeeze of lemon acidity cutting through. Your sourdough on the side will not go to waste. Seafood chowder (€12) came off a little less exciting in comparison – where the prior plates made for unfussy entrées done well, this bowl felt a little bit like filler. Great chowder comes off as an old favourite delivered with fresh flair; this serving has the air of a practical pub standard. The house wheaten pulls its weight with a lovely treacle intensity, though we’d have to hope the lack of butter was by mistake and not design. We will never not leap to attention for turbot (€33), and The Dunmore treat it with appropriate pomp, laid out on a bed of girolles and spinach and propped up against two wedges of dauphinoise, with potato sliced so thin it practically dissolves on contact. The mushrooms’ umami earthiness is all that stops this descending into full-fledged decadence – we mean that in the best possible way – with seared flesh flaking into buttery, fish-infused sauce and creamy, cheesy potato. It's a high price point for a main, but we didn't feel mugged off. Venison (€34) gets similar value-for-money kudos, with medium-rare saddle slices layered over a base of colcannon mash – it’s every bit as good as it sounds. With components like that, we would not have bet on the honey-roast parsnip stealing the day, but their root veg treatment is a revelation. Sticky, chewy, caramelised chunks play off the gaminess of the meat for a main that's both familiar and fresh – a nail-on-head example of where this restaurant really excels. The potato and spinach “pie” (€21) was not what we expected – it’s a tart, to start - but that’s just semantics, and what matters is it’s very tasty, featuring more of those miraculously-thin potato slices spread over a spinach and onion base, and dotted with chermoula herb paste and a crumbled feta. In a fish and meat-heavy venue it’s not uncommon to see a token veggie main rolled out, but there’s more thought than that here: sharp flavours are in concert with contrasting textures of crisp spud and flaky pastry. There’s a growing movement we’re none too happy about of sides moving toward a pre-requisite rather than an indulgent extra – gladly The Dunmore has said no thanks to that trend with mains that hold up as more than enough in their own right. That said, it’s not Some of the Food you’re reading so we didn’t hold back. York cabbage (€6) is less a generous wedge than a whole half-head plonked down before you. The charred edges are lovely with lashings of chili butter, but by any standards this is a lot for any but the biggest of tables. The portobello plate (€6) is a bit of a dud - if the menu-listed pesto was ever included here, it must have melted away on the grill. For all the good of the Knockanore cheese, the soggy slabs of mushroom could really have used something sharper. After all that the dessert menu comes off as just sadly uninspired, with predictable choices like crumble, cheesecake and chocolate fondant giving the sense of being there for the sake of it more than any real effort to impress. We reckon you’re better off retiring back to the bar area with one of their dessert cocktail choices instead. What are the drinks like? We were sorry to see The Dunmore’s online cocktail menu somewhat whittled down from what’s up online to what we were presented with at-table - the front half of the space definitely lends itself to lingering about and working through the list between a few friends. Still, there’s enough choice here to suit most palates among the 'classical twist' recipes they’ve gone for. The 'Angels Abyss' won the day for our money with nutty notes of amaretto and walnut bitters elevating the rum and maraschino cherry flavours. 'Bulleit in the Blue Sky' is an amenable aperitif with bourbon sweetness and the citrus lift of San Pellegrino lemon, but the herbal notes of Benedictine struggled to break through and the limp sprig of rosemary didn't help. The 'Tokyo Iced Tea' takes colour from Midori, and wields the sweetness well to ward off the heaviness of several spirits. The wine list has some great deals by-the-bottle – you can’t go wrong with the natural Ciello Blanco at €30 – but there’s less to shout about in the largely commercial by-the-glass list. Some selections are clearly geared to pairing with mains, and we found the richness of Seguinet Bordet Chablis a good fit for the turbot. Horgelus Rosé had a smattering of berry acidity to offer up against the venison, but the heavy Alibes Verdejo floundered against the lightness of the tart. If you can agree on a bottle you’ll be on firmer footing. How was the service? Relaxed and friendly to the last – the Foyles’ intention to build a great hospitality experience has wisely started with the team, and everyone here seems full-on committed to the aim. Even as the place filled up as the night waned on, there was no sense whatsoever of anyone struggling to keep up - good training goes a long way. And the damage? Dinner for three came in at €215, a pretty reasonable price for this part of the city in 2023, especially with a glass of wine and a cocktail apiece. If you can agree on a bottle between you and steer clear of the menu’s higher end, you could have a good night here for under €50 a head. What’s the verdict on The Dunmore? Not everything at Rathmines' new bar and restaurant is a success, but what The Dunmore gets very right is exporting the laidback coastal vibe of its sister restaurant to the Dublin suburbs. From the space to the staff to the plates of homely, wholesome food at prices that won’t leave you with a bad taste in your mouth, this is a new neighbourhood arrival that locals and blow-ins will be welcoming to Dublin 6. New Openings & Discoveries More >>

Romain Tessier's Arty Baker stole hearts and Instagram feeds with his stand at Sandycove Store and Yard, before going permanent with his first shop and bakery in Dalkey. Get there early for sourdough loaves, chocolate raspberry cruffins, and jalapeno popper croissants. Arty Baker Website artybaker.com Address 20A Castle Street, Dalkey, County Dublin Good For Tag 1 Cuisine Tag 1 Once Over Read our Review >> The Story Romain Tessier's Arty Baker stole hearts and Instagram feeds with his stand at Sandycove Store and Yard, before going permanent with his first shop and bakery in Dalkey. Get there early for sourdough loaves, chocolate raspberry cruffins, and jalapeno popper croissants. Where It's At Nearby Locales Gloria Osteria Cantina Valentina D'Lepak Pera Borgo Amai by Viktor Kaizen Chubbys Badam Table 45 Comet Daruma Malahide Lena The Pig's Ear Notions @ Two Pups The Rooftop @ Anantara The Marker Sofra Little Geno's Mama Shee Nutbutter Smithfield Shaku Maku Mad Yolks Rathmines Una Choux Bakery Parnell Street Bakery

Dalkey's much-loved wine shop has a restaurant in the back, and outdoor seating when the sun shines. The menu is a catch all of things like pasta, burgers and seafood, but the stars are on the shelves. Pick from an ever-interesting wine list, or pluck a bottle from the shop and pay corkage. Grapevine Website onthegrapevine.ie Address 26 Castle Street, Dalkey, Co. Dublin Good For Tag 1 Cuisine Tag 1 Once Over Read our Review >> The Story Dalkey's much-loved wine shop has a restaurant in the back, and outdoor seating when the sun shines. The menu is a catch all of things like pasta, burgers and seafood, but the stars are on the shelves. Pick from an ever-interesting wine list, or pluck a bottle from the shop and pay corkage. Where It's At Nearby Locales Gloria Osteria Cantina Valentina D'Lepak Pera Borgo Amai by Viktor Kaizen Chubbys Badam Table 45 Comet Daruma Malahide Lena The Pig's Ear Notions @ Two Pups The Rooftop @ Anantara The Marker Sofra Little Geno's Mama Shee Nutbutter Smithfield Shaku Maku Mad Yolks Rathmines Una Choux Bakery Parnell Street Bakery

Is it a chipper? Is it a gelato shop? Is it a bakery? Sorrento's may seem like it's suffering from multiple personality disorder, but when owner Cristian Proca can do all three so well, who are we to judge. Gelato flavours change daily, and his focaccia Pugliese have the locals queueing up. Sorrento's Website @sorrento_take_away Address 10B Arbour Hill, Stoneybatter, Dublin 7 Good For Tag 1 Cuisine Tag 1 Once Over Read our Review >> The Story Is it a chipper? Is it a gelato shop? Is it a bakery? Sorrento's may seem like it's suffering from multiple personality disorder, but when owner Cristian Proca can do all three so well, who are we to judge. Gelato flavours change daily, and his focaccia Pugliese have the locals queueing up. Where It's At Nearby Locales Gloria Osteria Cantina Valentina D'Lepak Pera Borgo Amai by Viktor Kaizen Chubbys Badam Table 45 Comet Daruma Malahide Lena The Pig's Ear Notions @ Two Pups The Rooftop @ Anantara The Marker Sofra Little Geno's Mama Shee Nutbutter Smithfield Shaku Maku Mad Yolks Rathmines Una Choux Bakery Parnell Street Bakery

Formerly Pala Pizza, and before that Bistro One, Brighton Road is now run by chef Alan Wang and wife Elaine. Wang worked in this kitchen for years before taking over and making it his own, but many menu staples have remained, like the roast crispy duck with stuffing and roasties. There's plenty of his own flair dotted through a menu designed not to put off the locals who've been coming for years, and the three-course Sunday lunch is a big deal around these parts. Brighton Road Website brightonroad.ie Address Brighton Road, Foxrock, Dublin 18, Ireland Good For Tag 1 Cuisine Tag 1 Once Over Read our Review >> The Story Formerly Pala Pizza, and before that Bistro One, Brighton Road is now run by chef Alan Wang and wife Elaine. Wang worked in this kitchen for years before taking over and making it his own, but many menu staples have remained, like the roast crispy duck with stuffing and roasties. There's plenty of his own flair dotted through a menu designed not to put off the locals who've been coming for years, and the three-course Sunday lunch is a big deal around these parts. Where It's At Nearby Locales Gloria Osteria Cantina Valentina D'Lepak Pera Borgo Amai by Viktor Kaizen Chubbys Badam Table 45 Comet Daruma Malahide Lena The Pig's Ear Notions @ Two Pups The Rooftop @ Anantara The Marker Sofra Little Geno's Mama Shee Nutbutter Smithfield Shaku Maku Mad Yolks Rathmines Una Choux Bakery Parnell Street Bakery

B Skewers Make a beeline for Brazilian BBQ on Bolton Street Posted: 12 Jul 2022 Neighbourhood Neighborhood Name Address Restaurant Address Website Website Name Restaurant Info View the Listing >> Written by: Lisa Cope What's the story? Brazilian couple Bruno Amado and Thaís Eloá started B Skewers in 2019 to "democratize barbecue", by setting up stall at various food markets. Having worked in hospitality in Dublin running restaurants for other people (Bruno for places including The Intercontinental and Pacino's) they decided they wanted to be their own bosses, and after dipping a toe in the BBQ market and getting the reception they were looking for, they felt confident enough to look for a permanent site. B Skewers opened on Bolton Street in early 2021, and rather than pitch themselves as a Brazilian BBQ shop initially, they said they wanted to showcase BBQ street food techniques from around the world (this now seems to have flipped back to Brazilian BBQ). That kind of catch all approach, as well as the strong focus they had on delivery apps, didn't initially get us fired up, but over the last year we've seen more and more chefs and laymen (whose opinions we take seriously) descend on B Skewers for steak on sticks, charcoal-grilled chicken hearts, and what several were calling the best burger in Dublin. We were in. Where should I sit? This place is teeny, with three high tables, five counter seats and some tables outside. We didn't realise that you can book online , and when we arrived there was nothing free, but the resourceful staff just lifted a table in from outside and sat us beside the till, then moved us to a high table when one became available. You've got to love a can do attitude. The counter seats are perfect for a quick pitstop, allowing you to peer into the kitchen as you eat, and the outdoor tables will do the job if you want to sit in the fresh air, even if it's not the most glamorous set up in town. Our pick would be the high tables looking out onto Bolton Street. What's the food like? The menu consists of skewers, burgers and sides, and the prices make it feel very accessible (and easy to over order, but you can always take extras home). Also be sure to check out the combo deals where you can mix and match it all, even if a substantial amount of brain power is required to decipher the best way to order what you want. We asked the owner Bruno what he recommended, which was a good decision because he loves to talk about food as much as we do. Basically, "everything is amazing", but he really wanted us to try the pork belly, the steak, the chicken legs, and the cheese and onion sausage. We wanted to try the burger after seeing it all over the 'gram, and the chicken hearts for offal novelty. He also gave us a substantial amount of interesting information about their sides and sauces, and where the dishes and recipes come from, including cassava/yuca prepared three different ways. They suggested we start with the burger and "fried yuca snacks", and if this dish hasn't been created with the 'gram in mind it was a very happy accident. Cutting it in half and flashing each side back on the grill for those all important grill marks manages to make it look that much more appetising. The burgers (fresh from FX Buckley each morning) are dripping with meat juices and cheddar cheese, have a slick of herby mayo, and are served medium-medium/rare - brave in today's health and safety obsessed society but they feel their sourcing is good enough to go for it. Once you've had a non-overcooked burger it's hard to go back, and it's very difficult to find one outside your own home these days, so we just hope this one manages to stick around. Yucca (or cassava) is a carbohydrate filled root vegetable, from the same family as potatoes, sweet potatoes and taro. It's native to south American and consumed daily in Brazil in numerous forms, including flour. Here it's on the menu in three different ways, including these deep-fried balls of silky smooth, starchy yuca snacks, with small chunks of smoked sausage mixed throughout, and a crunchy shell keeping it all in tact. Beer snacks don't get better. There are nine skewers to choose from and you could forego the burger and try them all between two, but with limited stomach space we picked four. The best were the beef (tender, marinated Angus) and the pork belly (melting and sweet), both tasting like something straight from a São Paulo Churrascaria. The cheese and onion sausage is made especially for them by a Brazilian sausage maker in Dublin, and has chunks of melting cheese amongst the salty pork, but as sausages go it didn't leave a lasting impression. The chicken hearts are for offal aficionados only, and we didn't love them, but you might. Bruno also recommended we try the boneless free-range chicken legs, and we meant to order the halloumi but forgot in all the excited discussion about the menu. Two of many reasons to go back. While the steak was filled with flavour on its own, it was taken to a new stratosphere by the addition of some "vinaigrette" and farofa. The vinaigrette is a tangy, mouth-puckering mix of tomato, onion, spring onion, olive oil and lime juice, and does the same job (probably better) as a spoonful of chimichurri with a nice slab of Bife de Chorizo. In Brazil they often sprinkle farofa (another form of cassava with a texture similar to polenta) over barbecued meats, and while you might wonder whether its necessary to fling additional carbs onto some perfectly good meat, we have now discovered that it is. A chunk of steak sprinkled with farofa and topped with a spoon of vinaigrette made for a massively memorable mouthful of food, and really highlighted how little additions can take a meal from good to great. For cassava #3 , it was a mashed version, similar to very smooth potatoes, but also creamy and cheesy. It had more depth of flavour than potato, and tasted more savoury, and it would be very easy to just eat this by the spoon (which we did). We also tried the buttered sweetcorn which was a bit sweet and a bit spicy, although we felt it could have had a bit more of a bite. There are five sauces to choose from and we ordered the salsa verde (tangy and full of fresh herbs) and the garlic pâté (like a very good garlic mayo made with roasted bulbs). They also brought us an African pepper sauce to try, saying they had been working on the recipe for ages, and this is one for the chilli chasers, but despite its heat it's fruity and rounded. Just don't eat too much in one go. There's only one option for dessert - a dulce de leche stuffed toasted brioche bun, and while no one needs a dessert like this, sometimes a bit of indulgence is required. It's excellent dulce de leche in an excellent toasted bun, and while at first we thought it needed some ice-cream, there was something OTT in a good way about carb on carb. If you can eat a whole one of these you've got a higher sugar tolerance than we do, so we recommend one to share, between four. What about drinks? It's no surprise that the drinks list is basic, but they do a mean Aperol Spritz, as well as Campari spritz, a Spanish beer called Madri, and some unexciting but drinkable wines. When we arrived we liked the look of the Aperol Spritz but they had no ice so we ordered prosecco instead. About 20 minutes later we saw some ice arrive, and before we even had a chance to ask, two ice-cold glasses were delivered to our table FOC. This kind of generous hospitality feels very rare these days, and seems to sum up what the place and its owners are about. How was the service? From the first smiles on walking in, to the generosity of time and spirit in explaining the food and menu, to the warm farewell on departure, it felt like being a very welcome guest in someone's home, and a genuine opportunity to learn about new foods you may not be overly familiar with - something that's not possible in the same way without the right, wholly impassioned people serving it. And the damage? Around €65 for two with one drink each on the bill and leftovers to take home. In a world of rising prices, we think places like this which can deliver such sincere, delicious food at such great prices are going to ride high for the foreseeable future. The verdict? You know when you leave somewhere you liked so much that you can barely wait to tell someone about it? That was us with B Skewers, phone in hand before the door shut had behind us. We were completely endeared by the whole, heartwarmingly honest operation, the people behind it, and the new flavours and ingredients they're serving up to infatuated customers, sick of the same old dishes citywide, although we'd love to see a stronger focus on provenance and quality ingredients - they've told us it's on their agenda. We've never found a Brazilian BBQ worth shouting about, and although there's another currently on our to try list, right now we've got all the love for Bruno, Thaís and their little Brazilian BBQ on Bolton Street. B Skewers 47 Bolton Street, Dublin 1 www.bskewers.com New Openings & Discoveries More >>

Aussie inspired brunch and small batch coffee in a beautiful, bright space on the Northside. Dishes are beautifully presented and packed with flavour (hot cakes for the win) and just try to keep your hands off the cakes on the counter. There's often a queue but you can put your name down and come back when your table is ready. Two Boys Brew Website twoboysbrew.ie Address 375 North Circular Road, Phibsborough, Dublin 7 Good For Tag 1 Cuisine Tag 1 Once Over Read our Review >> The Story Aussie inspired brunch and small batch coffee in a beautiful, bright space on the Northside. Dishes are beautifully presented and packed with flavour (hot cakes for the win) and just try to keep your hands off the cakes on the counter. There's often a queue but you can put your name down and come back when your table is ready. Where It's At Nearby Locales Gloria Osteria Cantina Valentina D'Lepak Pera Borgo Amai by Viktor Kaizen Chubbys Badam Table 45 Comet Daruma Malahide Lena The Pig's Ear Notions @ Two Pups The Rooftop @ Anantara The Marker Sofra Little Geno's Mama Shee Nutbutter Smithfield Shaku Maku Mad Yolks Rathmines Una Choux Bakery Parnell Street Bakery

Vibrant, authentic Thai food in Ranelagh that hasn't been dumbed down for Irish palettes (but they will adjust spice levels for the more mildly inclined). Exciting, dynamic cooking from an all Thai kitchen team. Nightmarket Website nightmarket.ie Address 120 Ranelagh, Dublin 6 Good For Tag 1 Cuisine Tag 1 Once Over Read our Review >> The Story Vibrant, authentic Thai food in Ranelagh that hasn't been dumbed down for Irish palettes (but they will adjust spice levels for the more mildly inclined). Exciting, dynamic cooking from an all Thai kitchen team. Where It's At Nearby Locales Gloria Osteria Cantina Valentina D'Lepak Pera Borgo Amai by Viktor Kaizen Chubbys Badam Table 45 Comet Daruma Malahide Lena The Pig's Ear Notions @ Two Pups The Rooftop @ Anantara The Marker Sofra Little Geno's Mama Shee Nutbutter Smithfield Shaku Maku Mad Yolks Rathmines Una Choux Bakery Parnell Street Bakery

Note opened in October 2021 and in about three minutes became the go-to place for the city's wine lovers. An eclectic, ever-changing wine list, and delicious bistro style dishes meant they were an instant addition to the Dublin's hottest restaurants list. Sundays sees hospitality staff flood in to drink the serious stuff, but it's packed with cool kids every night. Note Website notedublin.com Address 26 Fenian Street, Dublin 2 Good For Tag 1 Cuisine Tag 1 Once Over Read our Review >> The Story Note opened in October 2021 and in about three minutes became the go-to place for the city's wine lovers. An eclectic, ever-changing wine list, and delicious bistro style dishes meant they were an instant addition to the Dublin's hottest restaurants list. Sundays sees hospitality staff flood in to drink the serious stuff, but it's packed with cool kids every night. Where It's At Nearby Locales Gloria Osteria Cantina Valentina D'Lepak Pera Borgo Amai by Viktor Kaizen Chubbys Badam Table 45 Comet Daruma Malahide Lena The Pig's Ear Notions @ Two Pups The Rooftop @ Anantara The Marker Sofra Little Geno's Mama Shee Nutbutter Smithfield Shaku Maku Mad Yolks Rathmines Una Choux Bakery Parnell Street Bakery

Chapter One By Mickael Viljanen - The Tasting Menu Chapter One's tasting menu - Is it worth €170? Posted: 4 May 2022 Neighbourhood Neighborhood Name Address Restaurant Address Website Website Name Restaurant Info View the Listing >> Written by: Lisa Cope Why are you reviewing Chapter One by Mickael Viljanen again? Deftly spotted. We came here back in September shortly after they opened to try the €65 lunch menu (which we said you DESERVE to treat yourself to), but this time we went full steam ahead with the dinner tasting menu. This review wasn't planned, but as the plates started coming out, we realised you also deserved to hear about this one. We're not going to run through the background on everything again as you can read that here - this is purely about the tasting menu and whether it's worth the serious splurge. €170 a head on food is mad money to most people, and there are probably members of your family who would think you'd lost the plot handing that over for dinner, but if you're reading this you're probably of a different disposition, and while it's still a considerable chunk of change, most of us would probably spend it if it was going to be worth it. So is it? What's the story with the tasting menu? You can do it at lunch or at dinner. Lunch is a "surprise" tasting menu for €135. At dinner you actually see what you're getting for €170, and we always like to know what's coming - half the fun is in the anticipation. There's a wine pairing for €105 a head, or a "sommelier's selection" for €280 a head. More on those later. We recommend a cocktail or a glass of Champagne in the lovely bar area while you pour over what's going to come over the next 3-4 hours. Can we get down to the good stuff already? Sure. You'll start with canapés, four or five depending on the day and what the chef has dreamt up the night before when he should have been sleeping. The iconic (zero exaggeration) first bite of borscht has morphed into a pea soup in that cocoa butter shell, with jamon iberico on top. You know that really annoying critic phrase when they say something tasted "intensely of itself"? That. These were peas on overload. Then a Flaggy Shore oyster tart, in the crispest shell, with all of the oyster flavour, none of the slime. Next the chef brought out a bowl with a blow-torched piece of red mullet sitting in it, and a teapot of 'Aigo Sau', which is like a clarified bouillabaisse. In it went on top, with instructions to leave it for approximately eight seconds and it would be perfectly cooked - cue the longest eight seconds of your life, with an outrageously good payoff. There was also a crunchy, punchy celeriac and preserved lemon 'taco', a variation of which has been on from the start. "Siri, show me hedonism in food form." "How about this fried brioche stuffed with crème fraîche and pike roe, with caviar and edible gold leaf on top?" You could get up and leave after this indecent doughnut and not regret a cent spent. The first 'proper' course of six was a new spin on the chef's famous Foie Gras Royale. A base of custardy foie came with a fragrant, soft camomile jelly, a sharp verjus sorbet, cubes of eel, raisins, edible flowers and other lovely things with clearly alchemical properties. Spoons were dipped, and the conversation went something like: "Oh my God. OH my God. Oh my GOD." "I'm sorry, I can't even hear what you're saying." It's quite possible there was divine intervention on this one. This came with the first bread course (of three) - laminated treacle and Guinness brioche, which is also on the lunch menu and which we've rhapsodized about before . You think you've peaked with the foie, then the hand-dived scallop ceviche comes out, with crème fraîche, horseradish, elderflower vinegar and jalapeño. It's difficult to comprehend how someone can use so many assertive flavours so beautifully balanced, and keep the flavour of every element so vivid, so prepare to spend much of this dish just staring down at your plate and back at your dining partner, with your nose and mouth on sensory overload, and your head hurting from trying to take it all in. Another bread course? If you insist. This time a Japanese milk bread so fluffy you can just pull it apart with your fingers. It doesn't need the perfect butter, but when on Parnell Square... At this stage you'll probably be somewhere between total euphoria and adrenaline surging anticipation for what's to come next. For us it was BBQ Donegal lobster with kari gosse (a curry spice mix), carrot, finger lime, lobster rice and lobster sauce. There are more elements than even this, and when the chef brought the plates he muttered something about cocoa beans/shells, and the caviar and red currants weren't mentioned in the description either. We're guessing that if you put every single part of each dish on the menu it would run to several pages. There's something so joyful about a locally caught lobster and chips, but this is the diametric - lobster the way Kings and Queens might eat it, if they had a mastermind like this in the kitchen (they don't). It's peak lobster, with flavours and textures coming at you from every angle, and you might never have better. And we haven't even mentioned the lobster rice - rich, creamy, fragrant with saffron, and stuffed full of lobster pieces, each dip of your spoon uncovering more treasure. After that it was the other 'main', milk-fed Lozère lamb 'Provençal', with anchovy, ewe's milk and jus gras (like a light gravy). To 'whet your appetite' a tiny lamb-filled doughnut is brought over with a splodge of foie gras to scoop up onto it. After doing what you're told and feeling the flavour of lamb from your head right down to your toes, the main attraction arrives, all sitting under a sweet, dehydrated red pepper cape. Under this lies the pale, milky lamb, asparagus and artichoke, and where previously we would have been up on rooftops shouting that Irish lamb is the best, now we're not so sure. The flavour is delicate and grassy, the meat butter-soft, and as ever in this kitchen, every element around it has a perfect part to play. Oh there's also another bread course here, the house sourdough. You won't need it, but you'll greedily eat it. You'll likely be pretty full by now, so it's definitely time for a pre-dessert. Ours was a mousse laitière (dairy mousse), filled with kombu and citrus and made to look like a clementine or mandarin. The balance between sharpness and creaminess was just right, and it was as beautiful to look at as it was to eat, as well as being an excellent palate-reviver. Then the dessert, 'Tiramisu, Cumin', but there are no trays of mascarpone topped lady fingers around here. It starts with another cocoa butter shell filled with unsweetened coffee, which bursts open in your mouth getting it ready for what's to come, then something resembling a mini-Saturn is put in front of you, and it's hard to ruin the effect, but you must or it will melt. Chocolate, coffee and cream abound, but we didn't get any cumin. It wasn't missed. Lucky for us, we had a coffee hater in the ranks, so the lovely staff offered to substitute the dessert from the four-course menu instead - wild and cultivated strawberries, violet and chartreuse. A picture perfect, bright red ring cracked open to reveal a kind of vivid-tasting strawberry mousse on top of a biscuit base, with a side of violet ice-cream on top of chartreuse jelly. The strawberries don't stop there though. Who doesn't love a dessert in two parts, and we may have gasped when a trolley holding strawberry croissant tarts with edible gold trundled towards us. Staff described it as "breakfast in bed", and it was such a fun (and utterly delicious) addition to the menu, the plump, ripe strawberries cutting through the vanilla crème fraîche and buttery pastry. Shamefully we never took a picture of the petit fours but you'll get three little bites to finish, usually a fruit and two chocolate-based ones. They go perfect with an Irish coffee from another of their famous trolleys. Should I do the wine pairing? If €170 for dinner is a scrimp and save affair, the wine pairing at €105 might push Chapter One into "no can do" territory, so here's our advice. Look at what they're pairing, get one glass for each course and share them. Six - eight glasses of wine and most people would be on their ear anyway, and you need to keep units for an Irish coffee at the end. That will half your wine spend (in or around) and make the bill marginally less painful. If you've got the dough to throw around by all means go for it, but the wine service will be just as attentive whether you're doing the pairing or going à la carte. And the damage? *Deep breaths* - Just under €500 for two, for drinks on arrival, the tasting menu and à la carte wines pairings, and a tip is not included in that. If you do the full wine pairing each it'll be closer to €600. This is a mammoth spend for dinner for most people, and undoubtedly there will be members of your family you will never admit it to, but compared to the tasting menus at Ireland's other two-star restaurants (Aimsir - €210, Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud - €225), dare we say it feels like decent value? *waits for rocks to be thrown* The verdict? Is coming here for the two-starred tasting menu a lot of money? Yes. Is it more than most people would ever comprehend spending on a meal out? Also yes. Are we and the average ATF reader most people? No. This experience is not likely to be a regular one in your life (and if it is give us a call, we'd like to be friends). This is an anniversary indulgence, a birthday blowout, a yearly Odyssey through Mickael Viljanen's head, and while we've had many, many disappointing meals in Michelin-starred restaurants for way too much money, feeling sore and stung for weeks afterwards, this is not the story here. This is a tasting menu we want to throw all of our money at, that we feel hashtag blessed to have experienced, and getting a first row seat to the genius taking place within these basement walls might be the best dining experience in the country right now. Is it worth the money? Yes, a hundred times yes, and if you can't face spending it right now, try to get a table at some point this year for that €65 lunch - we guarantee you'll be back. Chapter One by Mickael Viljanen 18-19 Parnell Square, Dublin 1 chapteronerestaurant.com New Openings & Discoveries More >>

As One and Potager Two perfect rooms for the pandemically-anxious diner Posted: 7 Jul 2020 Neighbourhood Neighborhood Name Address Restaurant Address Website Website Name Restaurant Info View the Listing >> Written by: Lisa Cope What’s the story? An awful lot has changed since our last (carefree) once over of the brunch menu at Daddy's back in March. Just three days later schools were shut, and what's likely to be the defining event of our lifetime was underway. Four months later and we're still feeling hollow and unsure of what's coming next, but we'd be lying if we said that the reopening of restaurants (and creches) last week wasn't a huge relief. What's still causing a lot of unease is how many places are projecting radio silence across their websites and social media channels, and it's anyone's guess how many casualties are going to scattered across the city when this is all over, but for the ones that have reopened (with the necessary precautions), there's never been a more important time to get out and support them (presuming you feel comfortable doing so). As everyone who has reopened is still a bit shell shocked, toying with limited menus and deciding how to navigate the many, many reopening guidelines (some of which make absolutely zero sense), it didn't feel right to do a typical once over, so instead we're telling you about two dining options that are perfect if you're feeling a bit anxious about stepping out into the big, bad world again. What do I need to know about As One? As One opened on City Quay, just down from Tara Street station, a little over a year ago. Owner Mark Cashen had suffered with gut problems in the past which made him realise the importance of diet for wellbeing, so decided to leave his job in banking and open a café with gut health, mindfulness and the best of Irish produce at its core. The spacious, high-ceilinged space is minimal and supposed to be an antidote to the over stimulation that consumes most of us from one end of the day to the other, and the menu is a who's who of Irish farmers, vegetable growers and dairy producers. What's the food and drink like? Provenance of everything is front and centre, so if seeing things like Magner's Farm organic eggs, Irish shiitake mushrooms and The Village Dairy's organic milk put a smile on your face you're going to love it here. The post-Covid menu is slightly more condensed, with breakfast, brunch and lunch menus, as well as the salad and protein bar, and a couple of sharing plates. We're still thinking about the savoury, earthy mushrooms on toast with Irish shiitake, oyster and chestnut mushrooms, Jane Russell's black pudding, edamame and spinach pesto, chervil and an organic poached egg on Le Levain sourdough toast, but also loved the soft, smokey Turkish Eggs Menemen with a tomato and roasted red pepper sauce, feta yoghurt & black olives. We also tried the porridge made with oats from Merry Mill in Laois, which came topped with teff (an Ethiopian grain), caramelised banana, almond butter and strawberries. There was no denying the quality of the oats, but the dish felt slightly dry and in need of some yoghurt or compote. We'd had the pancakes on a previous occasion and wished they were back on the midweek breakfast menu, because blueberry pancakes with Velvet Cloud sheep's milk yoghurt are an excellent start to the day. Coffee is from Cloud Picker with both regular and decaf versions faultless, and the 'healthy' treats of oat bars and coconut raspberry slices tasted in no way healthy - which is a large compliment. Why is it an ideal post-lockdown eating out choice? The room is huge, high ceilinged and very spacious. They've taken out a few tables but there was already lots of space between them - all part of the mindful, minimalistic vibe. There's also outdoor seating if it's dry. Menus are gone, instead you scan a QR code on your phone and it pops up, or you can see it on a screen on the wall. There's a clearly marked queuing system both inside and outside, and lots of signage about keeping your distance. Staff weren't masked when we were there, but the room is so cavernous and airy (particularly with the wide open doors at the front) that it really didn't feel like a problem. Staff did appear scrupulous about hygiene though, gingerly handing over cutlery and carefully placing food down from as much of a distance as it's possible to maintain. The verdict? As One is the ideal place to ease yourself back into café culture or brunch with mates, and we can't imagine many places feeling safer or more well ventilated. It's the antitheses to cramped cafés where your elbows knock against your neighbour's, and you have to shout over the noise to get a server's attention. Cool, calm and comforting is where it's at after the past few months, and there's the added bonus of all of that impeccably sourced food, that your gut will hopefully thank you for. What about Potager? We reviewed Potager last year and fell hard for ex-Chapter One head chef Cathal Leonard's dynamic, singular cooking. After having four months to think about where we were most longing to eat once restrictions were lifted, it kept coming back to Potager, so yelps of delight were heard by the neighbours after bagging a Saturday night booking their first weekend back. What's the food and drink like? This is fine dining but there's nothing uptight or serious about it. The set dinner menu has increased in price from €55 to €60, but €60 feels like immense value for food this compelling. The only other changes are that there used to be a choice of mains and now that's just another course in the tasting. For us this is an improvement, as one of our only critiques last time was that the mains weren't as interesting as the smaller courses and felt like they were there to fill people up. That's not the case any more. There's also an extended menu for €80 with an extra course, both cheese and dessert (rather than choosing between them), and petit fours. A large proportion of ingredients come from the surrounding area in North County Dublin and Louth, and suppliers are proudly listed opposite that night's menu. Out of 10 courses there wasn't one dud, starting with fermented brown bread and Cuinneog butter, and onion bread with ricotta and kale pesto, and seeming to get better with every course that followed. A beer, cheese and savoury soup had us fervently scraping the tiny bowl for one more drop, the violet artichoke with crab, elderflower and sorrel had so many flavours with not one redundant, and the kai broccoli with confit garlic, deep-fried breaded anchovies, mustard and crispy violetta potato skins from Ballymakenny farm was a plate of total joy, that almost made up for the hell of the past few months. The staff had all told us that the beetroot pasta with smoked duck, truffle and ricotta was their favourite dish, and with an ingredient line up like that it wasn't hard to see why. We love a pasta course on a tasting menu, and we loved this one more. Usually the mere sight of chicken on a menu emits a bored groan, but not when it's Sean Ring's organic chickens from Kilkenny, and not when it's served in three different ways with two different types of swede, a garlic scape and a chicken jus that tasted as like at least 100 chickens had gone into it. The cheese course was a Knocklara cheese mousse sitting over a cranberry jelly with three different types of port in there, pistachios on top and seeded crackers. Think about how good that sounds, then multiply it by 10. This man is a maestro when it comes to whipped cheese, and we had the same sentiments last time about a similar dish with Cashel Blue, apple and celery jelly and walnuts. The ending was sweet, with chocolate, Velvet Cloud sheep's milk yoghurt and cherries, followed by petit fours of rose geranium filled choux buns (we scraped the plate for the last of the cream), and chocolate, white chocolate and beetroot macarons. Both the wines and the service have taken a leap forward since the last time we were there, and every recommendation by the glass did what all great wine pairings should do - enhanced the food even more. Service was so smooth with dishes perfectly paced, while the staff remained relaxed and chatty - there can't be that many places in the country to eat food of this level in such a laid back, informal atmosphere. Why is it perfect for post-lockdown dining? The room has always felt spacious, and now with a couple more tables removed you're metres from anyone else, and in no danger of eavesdropping on their conversations. There's hand sanitizer at the door, you hold onto your menu for the night to minimise contact with staff, and they've even removed one of the lobby doors into the bathrooms to eliminate one possible area of cross-contamination between guests. The verdict? A second visit to Potager has confirmed for us that it's one of the best restaurants in Dublin, with its own unique take on fine dining, and us post/mid-pandemic diners are very lucky to have it. No one knows what's going to happen with Michelin this year under the current circumstances, but if they are doling out stars for 2021 we hope they get a chance to come to Skerries before decisions are made. As One Unit 3, 13-18 City Quay, Dublin 2 asone.ie Potager 7 Church Street, Skerries, Co. Dublin potager.ie New Openings & Discoveries More >>