This Week's Critic Reviews


There were lots of happy critics tapping away on their keyboards this week, with some surprisingly positive reviews. It looks like the spate of new restaurant openings which has everyone in a panic isn't adversely affect the quality of the food across the city - might we even suggest it could improve things?

This week it's the turn of Catherine Cleary in The Irish Times to give her verdict on The Ivy, and while we would have thought that everything about the deafeningly decorated place stands in opposition to Cleary's very core, she gives it a half decent review. We were expecting something more along the lines of Conor Stevens' epic takedown in last week's Totally Dublin (a must-read for amusement's sake if nothing else).

She describes it as looking like a "country pile inherited by the party animal", and thought the loos had more atmosphere than the dining room. Starters of scallops and asparagus were enjoyable if for a few faults, but the signature shepherd's pie was "a little bigger than a saucer", lacking in meat, and "eats like the Thursday night staple in a Kensington nursing home" - and just like that she's back.

Another main of blackened cod was overcooked and overwhelmed by a sticky sauce, and desserts included a "fine" strawberry ice cream sundae, and a cappuccino cake that was a "funny mix" of chocolate cake, boozy milk mousse and coffee sauce, all competing with rather than complimenting each other. She says they enjoyed it (despite the 6/10 score), but that the food won't be enough to distract you from the gossip and people watching. Read her review here.

Another team breathing a sigh of relief yesterday was the one at The Grayson (the new opening from Press Up, formerly private members club Residence), after Lucinda O'Sullivan in the Sunday Independent gave it a surprisingly firm thumbs up. Press Up have been panned for their food offerings in the past, with most reviewers commenting that what was on the plates didn't live up to the expensive fit outs, so maybe they're starting to take note.

She was clearly taken with the space, particularly the "splendid winding staircase","colourful cocktail bar" and "glorious view over St Stephen's Green", and the "serious ... delicious" food lived up to the

surroundings. Sesame seared tuna was "quite perfect", pan-fried scallop was "exquisitely delicate", and fried halibut was "superb". Pan-fried gnocchi was "light as a feather", and sides were "excellent", including tempura courgettes with chili mayo. Courgettes, according to Lucinda, are "hot right now" because they're a favourite of Meghan Markle. So now you know.

Dessert of ice-cream and sorbet, and a slightly dull sounding (but apparently not tasting) cheeseboard completed the meal, and they left before the music got too loud. It will be interesting to see if other critics share her enthusiasm. (Review not currently online)

In the Irish Examiner Leslie Williams is at L'Ecrivain (where he reckons he's eaten 40 times, wonder if there's a a loyalty scheme), which has been in business for an incredible 28 years. We've been wondering what's happening with L'Ecrivain, as for a Michelin-starred restaurant we don't hear much about it. It's certainly not attracting the instagram brigade, which might be something to do with their own social media feeds, which can be ever so slightly lacking in the cool factor.