Bell Pesto

What's the story with Bell Pesto?

The casual, Italian café in Dublin 8 opened in 2020, and has a loyal legion of local fans, who regularly contact us saying "you have to try it". Owners Simona Panti and Enzo d'Elia (a couple who split their time between being here and looking after their children) have been in Dublin for a few decades, and used to work together at Steps of Rome (who remembers it?). They opened their own business mid-pandemic, and have been ticking along nicely ever since.

It's hard to know what category of restaurant to place it in, as they shut at 9pm, but do a monthly three-course set menu focused on a different region of Italy in addition to their regular one. So it's kind of a place for a night out, but one with an early start and finish. Otherwise their bread and butter is pasta, paninis, pizza slices and owner Enzo's "delights" like Parmigiana di Melanzane from 12pm until close.

Where should we sit?

The café style room doesn't feel set up for settling into for a few hours, but if that's the plan at least ask for the bench seating with cushions. The room is unfussy verging on stark, and some more soft furnishings/plant life/colour/more ambient lighting would go a long way to softening things up. We've marked the handful of counter seats in the window giving prime people watching out onto James' Street for our next solo dining article update.

What's on the menu?

Quite a lot. The standard offering of classic Italian pastas, paninis, hot dishes, salads and pizza slices are well priced, with pastas €13-€16, a panini and soup combo €14.50, and pizza slices prices €5.50 - €6.50. In addition, each month they have a special two/three course set menu from a different region of Italy, priced at €35.90/€40.90 (a jump from €28 for three courses just over four years ago, which says a lot about food inflation).

As it's where they get to show a bit of flair, we stuck mainly to the specials, this month from the Northern Italian region of Trentino Alto Adige. Triangles of Tyrolean Grana cheese served with fresh rosemary and balsamic drizzle sounded too simple, we must be missing something, but it was indeed just a couple of slabs of Grana Padano cooked in the oven. Finished with the dreaded balsamic glaze (why not just good balsamic vinegar?) and dried rosemary (not fresh), we were underwhelmed. We did enjoy the halloumi like texture (although it tensed as it cooled), but it felt very basic for €15, especially off the back of a meal in Uno Mas the night before where the starters are the same price and in a different universe of skill and effort.

Things got better with the Canderli alla tradizione, bread based dumplings with speck and herbs in a clear meat broth. These were silky, savoury and very satisfying, particularly on a cold evening, but again the €17 price tag had us puzzled - it's considerably more than any full plate of pasta on the regular menu, for a dish consisting of cheap components.

Dipping a toe into the regular menu we decided to see where their carbonara sits on the Dublin pasta scale. Long-time readers will know we've got Bar Italia's salty, creamy, full-throttle flavours on a pedestal, but occasionally we'll hear someone saw they thought it was too much. Bell Pesto's is a gentler version, rich without leaving you feeling like you need to say penance afterwards, with crispy guanciale throughout and on top. It's all too easy to scarf down, but we did find that the egg slightly scrambled leaving little flecks throughout. For €16.25 (compared to Bar Italia's €23) this is a solid, well-priced plate of the real deal.

Back to Alto Adige and we were onto pumpkin gnocchi with Gorgonzola and toasted walnuts (€27). The purple colour of the sauce was slightly off-putting (we're guessing red wine had a hand in it) but the flavours were strong, and richly cheesy. The nuts gave good crunch and we appreciated the freshly grated Parmesan brought to the table, but the gnocchi were quite gluey in texture, which can happen when there's excess moisture in the dough, or if it's over-kneaded leading to too much gluten.

A special dessert of almond and cocoa cookies were more bitter than sweet, working nicely against the apricot conserve inside, and they're a pleasing, not too sugary ending with an excellent decaf macchiato for the road (why are good ones so hard to find?)

The other special dessert of apple and raisin bread cake with raspberry sorbet is a clever way of using yesterday's bread, absolutely packed with chunks of apple, and again managing to be not too sweet. Like a one bowl recipe your friend's granny would serve when you popped in for tea.

What about drinks?

We're definitely in commercial wine territory, and there was nothing here that got our pulses going. There's a decent range of styles though and prices are more friendly than most places these days, with bottles starting at €29 and topping out at €42 for white and €49 for red. Avoid the one-note house Percorino, but the I 'Muri' Bianco, a Malvasia blend from Puglia was full bodied and flavour forward at just 25c more a glass. For reds both the Primitivo and Negroamaro were nicely drinkable, if not wildly exciting.

How was the service?

So warm, proper Italian famiglia style, both on the phone and when we got there. Owner Simona is a proper Mama there to take care of you, and when she came to chat or deliver dishes it felt like she might wrap her arms around us at any moment. She was thrilled to chat about Italy and her hometown of Abruzzo, and how she and Enzo ended up here. It's easy to momentarily forget you're in the Liberties on a wet evening in Dublin.

What did the bill come to?

€122 before tip for three courses, two glasses of wine and a coffee each, and we took some leftover pasta home. Overall it's hard to argue with.

What's the verdict on Bell Pesto?

It's hard not to like this simple Italian café, with its charming staff and no fuss food. The cooking isn't in the leagues of some of the city's other Italian big hitters, but it's an honest place to get a low-pressure feed, with so much from the breads to the pastas to the pesto made by hand. This is generous, homestyle Italian food, served with warmth, and while the café vibes don't quite say big night out, we'll go back for lunch when we want honest cooking that tastes like holidays.