Dublin map.jpg

All the Food, Guides, Features & News

This Week's Critic Reviews


It seems like nearly everyone had a craving for Japanese food this week, with Gillian Nelis at Bonsai Bar, Leslie Williams at EaTokyo, and Catherine Cleary and Lucinda O'Sullivan beating a path to Ichigo Ichie in Cork, the new, hugely anticipated fine dining restaurant from Takashi Miyazaki.

In the Sunday Business Post, Gillian Nelis was so impressed with the bar menu at Dylan McGrath's Bonsai Bar that seconds were ordered of the crunchy shiitake mushrooms with spiced nori crackers, and the salmon sashimi with avocado purée and bonito, which she calls some of the best sashimi she's had in Dublin.

Only beating the sashimi was the yellowfin tuna served on a kimchi croquette and topped with a cured egg yolk, which looks and sounds so delicious that Bonsai Bar has rocketed to the top of our must-try list.

She calls the food "boundary-pushing", and says that McGrath is "a chef who shows no signs of losing his ability to surprise and delight." Read her review here. (Subscription only)

In the Irish Examiner, Leslie Williams was at Eatokyo on Wellington Quay, where despite the sushi rice needing work when it comes to texture and seasoning, he had a "hugely enjoyable meal".

A tempura selection was "about perfect", prawn, garlic and chive gyoza were "excellent", and despite the rice issues he says the sushi is "better than most of what is available in Dublin." His favourite dish was the Schichimi Duck, which had been de-boned and deep fried until crispy with sweet-sour flavours.

Although he emphasises twice that the sushi is "perfectly good", he basically advises giving it a miss and focusing on the gyoza, noodles and meat dishes instead. Read his review here. Both Catherine Cleary and Lucinda O'Sullivan were at