The Two Minute Review: Matcha Matsukawa

What’s the tea on Matcha Matsukawa?

We’ve really reached peak matcha when a second dedicated café is opening up… is what we’d think if any other name but Matsukawa was above the door. Figuratively, that is - they opened this so quick the signage isn’t even in yet. The people behind Dublin’s first omakase experience revitalised the bang-average image of sushi you’d be forgiven for getting from the city’s erstwhile offerings two years ago, now here they come again to wrest back a Japanese cultural icon from the TikTok trend that’s trying to commodify it beyond recognition.

Is it really any different?

With bold colours and health benefits that cater to the visual and body-image nature of quick-cut social media, it’s small wonder matcha’s popularity has exploded so intensely that it’s threatening the very culture that kick-started the trend to begin with. Stepping into Matcha Matsukawa feels like turning back the tide, less the crass craze cash-in of all the matcha lattes about town than a reclamation of the reality all this is spun out of.

That starts with the Japanese hospitality, so forthrightly friendly it makes the prized Irish welcome seem cold by contrast. We practically leapt out of our skin with fright at the five figures that together chanted MORNING at us on our opening time arrival – if you’re groggy first thing, this is sure to wake you. So’s the tea, with three hot potted varieties (€5.50) on offer beside the (hot or iced) lattes (€6.50), all organic and prepped fresh before you in sadō ceremonial style.

Steamed sencha is most popular in the morning, with the highest caffeine content and a bitterness to boot; genmaicha is mixed with roasted rice for a more muted midday cup; the roasted hojicha bears a subtle sweetness best for evenings or alongside a treat. With plenty of desserts coming we opted for the latter and found its mellow, caramelised flavours so soothing we’d easily have slipped back off to sleep again.

And we might well have been dreaming with desserts like these, picture-pretty with that pop of green. The tart (€7) is a top tip for the matcha sceptic, its earthiness balanced out with the sweetness of piped cream and the zing of fresh berries, all cupped up in a delicate crisp casing. The more adventurous should make for the mille crêpe (€9.50), with more assertive flavour nestled among the dainty pastry and cream layers. Tiramisu (€8.50) is one for the matcha-mad only, with soaked sponge, infused cream, powder dusting, and sharp shocks of jelly going all-in on umami flavour. We loved it, but not everyone will.

Why should we go?

If the less convincing iced latte and strawberry sandwich (€7) feel like concessions to the craze, we’re willing to allow it for the effect Matcha Matsukawa might have on those lured in. You’ve seen the memes, now relish the reality.

In its emphasis on ritual, from the multi-stage prep that plays out before you to the tantalising tea timer whose slow-sinking sands preach a patience and presence in the moment, this little ceremonial oasis in the heart of the IFSC is an escape we’re all in need of.

Matcha Matsukawa

Unit 3, George’s Dock, Dublin 1

instagram.com/matsukawa_matcha.ie