Chob Thai A tale of two meals at Clontarf's newest Thai Posted: 18 Mar 2025 Neighbourhood Neighborhood Name Address Restaurant Address Website Website Name Restaurant Info View the Listing >> Written by: Lisa Cope What should we know about Chob Thai? Chob Thai opened in Clontarf last September where Picasso Italian used to be on Vernon Road, but we heard nothing about it until they started to invite some influencers in for dinner a few months ago. Suddenly it started appearing on our social media feeds, and man oh man did it look good . The Thai owner told us he had lived here as a child before returning home to Thailand, and always thought it was somewhere he wanted to come back to. His Dad later moved back, and he followed, with a dream of bringing real Thai food to Dublin, which he said was almost impossible to find here. He found chefs through friends and family who agreed to move too, found the site in Clontarf and they were off. We love the sentiment, and we love anyone who's trying to replicate a country's cuisine as genuinely as possible, without making allowances for locals, so a table was booked lickety-split. Where should we sit? The compact downstairs has a more Thai vibe, with the pre-existing exposed brick working nicely against Southeast Asian art, woven wall-hangings and a gold Thai headdress sitting in the window. Window seats are always where it's at for us, with these ones giving a view of the Clontarf coastline and plenty of people-watching opportunities. There's a larger room upstairs which feels unfinished in comparison, and lacks the same ornamental detail and warmth. What did you eat? Well this is where it gets complicated because we had two very different meals here, from three very different menus. Strap yourself in for what hopefully won't be too confusing a ride. On our first visit we were given the regular à la carte menu full of dish after dish we couldn't wait to get our forks into, as well as a much more subdued lunch menu (two courses for €28.50), with only two mains that seemed to have anything to do with Thai cooking. Sweet and sour crispy chicken does not a Thai meal make. As the Tom Khaa soup and Pad Thai were on there, we took the savings of €7.50, and stuck to à la carte for the rest. Soups (€11.50 - €12.50) come with a choice of prawns, fish, chicken or vegetables (oddly the vegetable option is the same price as fish or chicken which is sure to displease veggies), and we picked fish after being told it was fresh not frozen (tick). As soups go, this is a knockout, with creamy coconut, lemongrass, galangal, lime leaves, mushrooms and coriander, the tender, flaky fish peaking out of the broth in generous quantities - vivid flavours that will stay with you after you leave. Duck spring rolls are also on the €28.50 two-course lunch menu (€12.50 on the à la carte) and they're as good as we've had anywhere - obviously homemade and hand-wrapped, the crunchy shells packed with chunks of duck from an animal clearly cooked in house, along with vermicelli noodles and crunchy vegetables. This was very nearly an "oops we ordered another portion" moment. Pad Thai (€24.50) comes with prawn and chicken as standard, and was more flawless Thai cooking - a riotous patchwork of rice noodles, beansprouts, just cooked veg and egg, with finely chopped peanut, chilli powder and lime juice to adjust to your palate's preferences. If you've never tried the famous Thai dish before, this is the place to have your first taste. The fresh not frozen seafood policy also extends to the crab fried rice (€24.50), which was positively packed with the stuff, chunks coming up in every fork. Perfectly fluffy rice had onion, spring onion and egg through it, with lime on the side to be liberally squeezed over, and the simplicity of the rest let the crab shine through. The traffic light curries most people will know come with a choice of seafood, beef, lamb, prawn, chicken or vegetables, and a lamb massaman (€24.50) was creamy and mildly spiced with onion, potato, carrot, and some cherry tomatoes on top - we scooped the bowl clean. Rice is extra at €3.50 for jasmine or €5.50 for egg-fried. Desserts listed just a mango cheesecake (which at €12 must be one of the most expensive desserts in Dublin), as well as sorbet or ice-cream (also ambitiously priced at €10), but we'd seen the classic Thai dessert of mango and sticky rice on their social media channels, and when we asked they said they could do it. We've not sure whether they've stopped doing it altogether, or are waiting for new menus to be printed, but this was a sub-standard version, with under-ripe mango and rice lacking flavour. The ones at Full Moon Thai and Nightmarket are far better (and cheaper), using much more delicious mangos. Sounds amazing. What went wrong? Well we went back didn't we. Back to try more food to tell you about, and had a very different experience. We did think they were going to struggle to get people in at lunchtime with those à la carte prices, so on first glance the introduction of a new scaled back, less expensive lunch menu (€5-6 less for mains) seemed like a clever move, but the dishes we'd planned to order, like the jumbo King prawn silver noodle pot, and the deep-fried seabass with three flavour sauce were nowhere to be seen. Instead it was a basic two-pager of Thailand's greatest hits, with the addition of some new salads. We forged ahead with the Thai-style chicken skewers with satay sauce (€8.50), and it wasn't a great start. Two thin, chewy skewers, and a lacklustre peanut sauce had us wondering if we were in the same restaurant. A duck salad (on the two course, €28.50 menu), that we almost ordered the last time, was 90% salad vegetables, with severely over-cooked, dried out and chewy duck, in a one note spicy sauce. Thai-style prawn cakes (€8.50) with red curry paste, lime leaves, green beans and Thai basil had the bouncy, juicy texture you'd expect, with the sweet chilli dip doing its job, but not leaving much in the way of taste memories. By the time we got to the larb moo (Thai-style salad with minced pork, €13.50) we'd had enough of plate-filling, undressed vegetables - there's only so much raw lettuce, thickly sliced cucumber and cherry tomatoes anyone can eat. To eat insult to injury there was an unappealing sour taste to the dish (not Thai-flavour related) and we sent it back. Onto mains and the three flame (the spiciest score) chicken with chilli and basil leaves (confusingly two flames on the new scaled back lunch menu) was mild enough for the spice-averse to eat (barring an occasional rogue dried chilli). If this is as spicy as the kitchen gets, they're undoubtedly toning things down for an Irish audience. We ended with the worst of the lot. Buoyed by the fresh fish and crab meat on our previous visit, we went for the Penang curry with seafood. Big mistake. BIG. Calamari as rubbery as car tyres, mussels that tasted like they'd been cooked for the third time, prawns so tough they'd give prawns a bad name, and a single, sad scallop that had to be sawed through. The mild, coconutty sauce had lovely flavour - shame about the seafood travesty within it. We're not blind to the fact that these are tough times for restaurants, but the way to make customers want to come through your doors is to offer something novel, exciting, different, that they can't cook at home or find in a multitude of other places. After our first meal we were sure there would be queues down the street once word got out, Thai food enthusiasts travelling from across the capital to get a taste of what's coming out of this kitchen. To see the dilution taken to increase customer numbers at lunchtime is like seeing a car speeding down a one way road and screaming "stooopppp!" What about drinks? You won't be coming here for the wine, which looks like a selection you might find in your local supermarket. There are eight by the glass, but we couldn't bring ourselves to dive in. Cocktails appear to have had more work put into them, with loads of Thai twists on classic drinks, but there's a lot of sugar syrup throughout. We tried a lychee sake mojito which was a decent mojito, but we couldn't discern any lychee other than the one sitting on top of the crushed ice. How was the service? Pleasant but wanting, with the same muted server both times having to check and recheck what we'd ordered. Our mains were very slow in coming the first time, which was surprising as there were only a few tables filled, but things came more promptly the second time. What was the damage? The two course lunch from Friday - Sunday is €28.50, but if you want to go in the evening for the good stuff on the à la carte you'd want to budget at least €50 a head for three courses without drinks - that could jump above €60pp if you order prime seafood or beef. There is a three-course option for €45, but most of the stuff we'd want to eat isn't on there. What's the verdict on Chob Thai? Based off our first visit Chob Thai has everything needed to join the very top rung of Dublin's Thai restaurants, along with Full Moon , Nightmarket , Baan Thai and Achara , and we would have loved to be shouting that from the rooftops this week, but buyer beware when it comes to lunch. Sticking to your guns and waiting for your following to find you can be anxiety-inducing and expensive, but diluting down your product for a short-term hike in customers isn't the way to build a bustling business. Hopefully they see the light before too much damage is done, because when it's good here, it's exceptional. New Openings & Discoveries More >>

The Big Mamma Group brought their high energy, all Italian Gloria Osteria to Dublin at the end of 2025, and it's safe to say the city had never seen an opening like it. The room is a sight to behold, and the menu spans antipasti, pasta, fish and meat mains, and desserts you'll want to save a whole lot of room for. The vibes in here are glamour and fun, so bring plenty of both and you'll have a great time. Gloria Osteria Website gloria-osteria.com/dublin Address 41 Westmoreland St, Dublin, D02 VY45, Ireland Good For Tag 1 Cuisine Tag 1 Once Over Read our Review >> The Story The Big Mamma Group brought their high energy, all Italian Gloria Osteria to Dublin at the end of 2025, and it's safe to say the city had never seen an opening like it. The room is a sight to behold, and the menu spans antipasti, pasta, fish and meat mains, and desserts you'll want to save a whole lot of room for. The vibes in here are glamour and fun, so bring plenty of both and you'll have a great time. Where It's At Nearby Locales Goat's Gruff Banco Bah 33 Mark Moriarty Studio Gaffe at Leonard's Corner Sano Pasta Yibu by Janet Little Canton Dak @ Bar Anam Mongoose Chongqing Hot Pot Boco Clontarf Bell Pesto Bang Gloria Osteria Cantina Valentina D'Lepak Pera Borgo Amai by Viktor Kaizen Chubbys Badam Table 45 Comet

Amuri Why aren't more people shouting about Amuri? We'll start... Posted: 3 May 2023 Neighbourhood Neighborhood Name Address Restaurant Address Website Website Name Restaurant Info View the Listing >> Written by: Lisa Cope What's the story? Brothers Andrea and Luca Licciardello are from Sicily but have lived and worked in Dublin for over a decade, in various bars and restaurants around town. Opening their own Sicilian restaurant together was always a dream, and it was Covid that handed them the opportunity. They had started a side hustle, importing Sicilian wines into Ireland made by Luca and a friend in Sicily (called GioVinotto ) , and through this got to know the owners of wine shops including The Corkscrew on Chatham Street. Their upstairs tasting room had lain idle during the pandemic, and they were wondering what to do with it, until a conversation with the brothers sparked the idea that maybe they could take it over. The sleekly designed room with its juniper green walls, wood panelling and hanging lights just needed some brightly coloured art-work, cheerful Sicilian cloths, and kitsch Italian ornamets added to the glass cases, and it felt like it was Amuri ' s all along (which was a good thing because the brothers say they had to spend all of their savings along with loans from family and friends just to get the doors open). When it came to the menu, neither of the brothers is a trained chef but say they "know their food" and knew what they wanted to serve, so they employed a chef consultant from Sicily to help with the opening menu, then hired a head chef (originally from Brazil) and sent him to Sicily for two months. One final call to Granny to get her approval on the dishes and recipes and they opened in May 2022. Amuri have had some good reviews (including in the Irish Times and the Sunday Times ) but has never really exploded as one of the city's most wanted bookings. Despite this their online reviews from customers are off the charts, so we thought it was time we paid them a visit. Where should we sit? If you've never seen The Corkscrew's tasting room you'd probably think "wow, these guys must have some serious backers behind them to knock out a room like this", but most of it was here already. Despite this it just fits, feeling fresh and modern, but still homely and warm. The main dining room is where the buzz is, with two window tables offering views out onto Chatham Street (although currently you're looking at a building site that will be the European Commission's headquarters at some point). As well as regular tables there are two high tables for two, and additional tables in another smaller section that you'll walk through on entering, and is marginally quieter if you'd like less animated chatter all around. What did you eat? This is a perfectly sized menu in our book, with five starters, four pastas and a risotto, and three meat and fish options. There are daily specials too so make sure you ask. Currently the lunch menu is the same as the dinner one, but they are introducing an express, less expensive option soon, which we think will make a huge difference to their lunch trade. We ended up here twice in the space of three days, as we couldn't stop thinking about our first visit, so managed to get through quite a bit of the menu. They start (as all good restaurants do) by bring you bread and their own imported olive oil - it's the good stuff. We got foccacia at lunch and sourdough at dinner, and it wasn't obvious if either were homemade, but they filled the hunger gap nicely until the starters. Then, the caponata. Oh the caponata. Close your eyes and you're sitting on the edge of Scopello's natural park, the sun beating down on your face, each forkful more sweet, sour and sunkissed than the last. Aubergine, shallots, peppers, pine nuts, Modica chocolate and some grated ricotta salata (a hard, pressed ricotta) - this dish is pretty much single-handedly responsible for us going back twice in three days, so desperate we were to taste it again. Arancino (an oval version of arancini) is the street food that no self-respecting Sicilian restaurant would leave off their menu, and the one here comes with saffron-scented rice, stuffed with ham and mozzarella, with a ring of burrata fondue for mopping. Crisp, creamy and well-seasoned, you couldn't ask for more from the tear-drop shaped, deep-fried snack. The last starter we tried was the (clearly handmade) tortellini with lamb, broccoli, spinach and shimeji mushrooms. If it sounded insipid by description, it was anything but on the plate. The chewy pasta was toppling over with lamb flavour (we wondered if it was cooked in the stock), with the vegetables and sauce the right combination of salt and acid, with some kind of vinegar, to cut through the pasta and meat, and more of that stellar olive oil. Critics complain a lot about food being under or over seasoned - in here they seem to have it down to a fine art. Of the four pastas, the 'Pasta alle sarde' with sardines, anchovies, fennel, saffron, onions, pickled raisins and breadcrumbs send us flying back to a little Sicilian guesthouse we once stayed in, where the owners' husband fished each morning, and she cooked what he caught. We thought that was the best iteration of this dish we would ever taste, but this one's even better. If you don't order it you'll smell it being carried to other tables and just have regret. Don't have regret. The risotto when we visited was with sun-dried tomatoes, topped with burrata cream and what we think was basil oil, and it's in these simple dishes that the quality of their sunshine-filled, mainly imported ingredients really shouts out. The other pasta we had to order for sheer uniqueness was the 'Caserecce crema di pistachio', with pistachio sauce and guanciale. We half thought this might be some kind of gimick for the 'gram, but oh were we wrong. Despite the cream in the name, there's no cream in here. Instead it's made with cheese (usually Robiola and Parmesan), water, olive oil and nuts, with some expertly rendered, crispy, chewy pieces of guanciale scattered throughout, that every so often pop in your mouth. Joy. Fish options when we visited were halibut (the catch of the day) and sea bream (which was actually sea bass that day), and despite the latter not offering much in the interest stakes, we were drawn in by the fennel, courgette and 'Amuri dressing' (capers, olives and shallots) accompaniments. We had blinked at the prices of €33 and €34 for fish but this was actually a whole fish, stuffed with fish mousse, and would probably be too much for some people. It also came with those €6 roast potatoes with rosemary (more below), which you'll need to order anyway, so take that off. The flavours were deftly Meditteranean with the fish perfectly cooked and still juicy, but we lost interest half way through and it needed more of that salty Amuri dressing. Saying that we all know people who love nothing more than a big hunk of fish for dinner - this is for them. And now the other reason we went running back two days after first visiting. The potatoes. We probably don't even need to talk about these, the pictures surely tell the story, but in case you're in any doubt - fluffy insides, outsides so crispy you'll study them asking "how?", rosemary scented and a generous hand with the salt. This is potato perfection. On our second visit they weren't quite as burnished, so there's a little bit of inconsistency here, but they were still in the top tier of potato sides, Ask for the really, really well done ones if you can. The other side we tried was the tomato, red onion and ricotta salata salad, and these tomatoes clearly didn't grow up on our shores. We asked where they were buying them from, expecting them to name some Italian food importer. Turns out they're walking down to Fallon & Byrne every day because they need such small quantities and "they have the best". That's committment to the cause. The red onion is more sweet than astringent, that olive oil is in good use again, and the ricotta salata is the creamy, salty, icing on the cake. There are three desserts on the menu, the moka pot tiramisu you've probably seen online, cannoli, and the third one might be a chocolate or lemon mousse. Yes the moka pot is a bit of a gimmick, but it's actually the perfect serving size for one, and this is an excellent, nicely boozy tiramisu. A cold lemon mousse came wrapped in white chocolate with confit lemon and meringue, and was a fresher ending if your palate needs wakening up again - although the complimentary limoncello with the bill will do that too. What about the drinks? The drinks list only has wine and after-dinner drinks on there, but they do cocktail specials so be sure to ask if you're told not about them. We loved their take on a Sicilian negroni with Zibbibo white wine instead of Vermouth, and a non-alcoholic option was concocted on request with lemon juice, strawberry purée, egg white and more. As NA options go this was a good one. The wine list is really lacking in by the glass options, with only three whites and three reds by the glass (and two of each are their own imports). We tried their Giovinotto Zibibbo and Frappato and didn't find either overly interesting. There are some Sicilian crackers by the bottle though, like Tenuta delle Terre Nere's Etna Bianco, and COS's Vittoria Rosso, so that's the way to go for us. How was the service? Everyone working here was Italian, which really adds to the "I'm on holiday" feeling. The two brothers work the room, welcoming regulars and chatting with new faces, and there's a jovial atmosphere that just seems to spread from table to table. It's all so very Sicilian, and hard not to get swept up in. What was the damage? A three-course meal for two with four drinks came to €155, which felt like really good value, both for what we ate, and among the current state of pricing in the city. What's the verdict? Why aren't more people shouting about Amuri? Maybe it's because they've managed to continuously improve since opening, and it's more of a slow burn than an initial flash in the PR pan. Either way we felt like we'd been let in on a city centre secret last week, that regulars would be very happy to keep to themselves. So to them, we say sorry. And some more good news. Later this year The Corkscrew will move to a new location beside The Westbury, and Amuri will take over downstairs too, turning it into a more casual place for Sicilian street food. We'll be first in the queue. Amuri 4 Chatham Street, Dublin 2 www.amuri.ie New Openings & Discoveries More >>

Opening at the end of 2022, D'Olier street is a collaboration between Mr Fox's Anthony Smith, and formerly US-based couple Jane Frye and James Moore. Moore was previously head chef at two-Michelin-starred Atera in New York, before Smith convinced them to open their first solo restaurant together in Dublin, and New York's loss is our gain. The ten-course tasting menu featuring spellbinding breads and desserts from pastry chef Mina Pizarro, and this iconic room in D'Olier Chambers has never looked so good. D'Olier Street Website dolierstreetrestaurant.com Address D'Olier Chambers, D'Olier Street, Dublin 2 Good For Tag 1 Cuisine Tag 1 Once Over Read our Review >> The Story Opening at the end of 2022, D'Olier street is a collaboration between Mr Fox's Anthony Smith, and formerly US-based couple Jane Frye and James Moore. Moore was previously head chef at two-Michelin-starred Atera in New York, before Smith convinced them to open their first solo restaurant together in Dublin, and New York's loss is our gain. The ten-course tasting menu featuring spellbinding breads and desserts from pastry chef Mina Pizarro, and this iconic room in D'Olier Chambers has never looked so good. Where It's At Nearby Locales Goat's Gruff Banco Bah 33 Mark Moriarty Studio Gaffe at Leonard's Corner Sano Pasta Yibu by Janet Little Canton Dak @ Bar Anam Mongoose Chongqing Hot Pot Boco Clontarf Bell Pesto Bang Gloria Osteria Cantina Valentina D'Lepak Pera Borgo Amai by Viktor Kaizen Chubbys Badam Table 45 Comet

Daddy's Brunch in a pub has never been this good Posted: 10 Mar 2020 Neighbourhood Neighborhood Name Address Restaurant Address Website Website Name Restaurant Info View the Listing >> Written by: Lisa Cope What’s the story? Last December, the team behind Lucky's on Meath Street opened a new multi-purpose venue in a neighbourhood that really needed it - Rialto. The Circular is the pub part, serving craft beer and pizza from Coke Lane with a "beer yard" out the back (yet to be seen), and at the front is Daddy's - the bright, vintage style pink-toned café. Daddy's serves breakfast, lunch and 'early dinner' during the week, with brunch on weekends, and very quickly locals (and those from farther afield) were singing the praises of their Turkish Eggs, savoury tarts and the nostalgia inducing 'mashed eggs in a cup'. The suppliers list is impressive, with O'Neill's bacon, Annascaul black and white pudding, organic free-range eggs and Tartine bread and pastries, and there's a cabinet in front where you can buy many of the same ingredients to take home. If you're planning on rocking up to do a bit of work, be aware that they only allow laptops in the café part at the front, and on a separate visit, another member of the ATF team felt staff were a bit snippy when she asked if she could move into the main room with hers. Sounds like it's a bit of a sore spot. What else is around? If you're in this neck of the woods you've got to pay a visit to The Bakery by The Cupcake Bloke , to stock up on almond and honey, lemon and raspberry and oreo cupcakes, their award-winning Earl Grey, cranberry and orange tea brack, and if you're lucky a giant mikado or a jambon. You're also a 10 minute walk from Kilmainham Gaol if it's somewhere you've been meaning to tick off your bucket list (guilty), and a 20 minute walk to Teelings Distillery if you're in the mood for some whiskey tasting. Where should we sit? Although Daddy's is technically only the front part with high stools, high tables and counters, there are three seating areas in the venue, so plenty of room whatever the size or needs of your group. The front has the best light but you need to be okay with a bit of leg dangling. Then in the main pub there's "the good room", an annexed section with red booths and blue wall panelling, then into the main pub with round booths, counter seating and regular tables for two or four. If you don't want to be in the café at the front, the "good room" is definitely where it's at, feeling cosy yet bright at the same time thanks to the high windows. Because the main pub is so big, and they only fill a few tables for brunch, it's somewhat lacking in atmosphere in comparison to the other areas, but if you want peace, space, or just to have a private conversation it'll do the job. What's good to eat? This is one of those brunch menus that you immediately know is a cut above most, due to twists on some classics and the produce being used. The counter is filled with Tartine pastries, scones, bakes and tarts, and if you can avoid ordering one while waiting for your food you have more self-control than us. We opted for a pain au chocolat which was exactly how it should be, with the coveted two rows of chocolate and crispy strips on the outside for extra crunch. Clearly we couldn't come here without trying the Turkish eggs (why don't we see more Turkish eggs on menus here!?) and they were very good with a generous amount of sourdough, but we'd argue that the bowl they were served in wasn't ideal. The spiced oil had risen to the top with the garlic and herb yoghurt sitting at the bottom, and it took a lot of digging to get down and get a decent amount of it on the bread. We prefer Turkish eggs in a wider, more shallow bowl where both oil and yoghurt are easy to scoop up. Saying that the flavours were excellent and the eggs perfectly poached. Next time we'd probably just gently empty the bowl out onto the plate. Next up the impossibly perfect 'organic mashed eggs in a cup" with Annascaul black and white pudding, kale and toast. It's hard to imagine mashed eggs tasting this delicious (we're guessing lots of butter), but our parents certainly never made 'em like this. Both the black and white pudding have to be some of the best in the country, soft and spreadable, and the kale was beautifully seasoned with crispy edges. A really perfect breakfast plate, barring the single wrapped butter pats which in this day and age are pretty unforgiveable. We also couldn't resist the double baked croissant pudding with vanilla custard, O'Neill's smoked, streaky bacon and honey, and if sweet breakfasts are your thing, this is a triumph. Like the best bread and butter pudding, which could only be made better by chucking a load of salty, streaky bacon on top, from one of our favourite bacon producers. We wanted to try pretty much everything on the menu (a rare occurrence), but sadly stomach space is limited. On the list for next time are the boxty with kale, poached eggs and garlic herb yoghurt, and the fried egg sandwich with bacon and brown sauce, with a slice of seasonal fruit tart for afters. What about the drinks? Coffee is by Two-Fifty Square and is excellent - special shout out for the decaf which is among the best we've tasted. Tea is from Clement & Pekoe and they also do freshly squeezed orange juice and Bloody Marys if you're feeling delicate (or just like booze with brunch). And the service? Everyone was bright, warm and welcoming, and the food arrived in good time. The verdict? We loved Daddy's and think Rialto is very lucky to have it. There's no doubt it's going to be packed with weekend brunch crowds, and the word's probably not fully out yet so now is as good a time as any to get in there and try it for yourself. You can't go wrong with the menu, the vibe is ideal for some weekend chill time, and despite Dublin's brilliant brunch scene, Daddy's feels unique and different to the rest. Now if only they'd take over a big pub on the Northside and do the same. Daddy's 538 South Circular Road, Rialto, Dublin 8 www.instagram.com/daddysdub New Openings & Discoveries More >>

You might be scratching your head when you get to Parnell Street, wondering where this elusive bakery is. Look under the Wok Station signage to the left and you'll see the tiny "blink and you'll miss it" location. These "Asian choux buns" are a benchmark in French patisserie, with Asian flavours like black sesame, Thai milk tea and matcha. There's loads of other Asian-style desserts in plastic containers, as well as all kinds of fruit teas, with everything to take away. Choux Bakery Website instagram.com/choux.bakery.dublin Address Choux Bakery, Parnell Street, Rotunda, Dublin, Ireland Good For Tag 1 Cuisine Tag 1 Once Over Read our Review >> The Story You might be scratching your head when you get to Parnell Street, wondering where this elusive bakery is. Look under the Wok Station signage to the left and you'll see the tiny "blink and you'll miss it" location. These "Asian choux buns" are a benchmark in French patisserie, with Asian flavours like black sesame, Thai milk tea and matcha. There's loads of other Asian-style desserts in plastic containers, as well as all kinds of fruit teas, with everything to take away. Where It's At Nearby Locales Goat's Gruff Banco Bah 33 Mark Moriarty Studio Gaffe at Leonard's Corner Sano Pasta Yibu by Janet Little Canton Dak @ Bar Anam Mongoose Chongqing Hot Pot Boco Clontarf Bell Pesto Bang Gloria Osteria Cantina Valentina D'Lepak Pera Borgo Amai by Viktor Kaizen Chubbys Badam Table 45 Comet

Etto Sherry, stracciatella and a feast of meat Posted: 26 Jan 2018 Neighbourhood Neighborhood Name Address Restaurant Address Website Website Name Restaurant Info View the Listing >> Written by: Lisa Cope What’s the story? Unarguably one of the most talked about restaurants in Dublin since opening in 2013, Etto was a ray of light in a recession ravaged city and led the way for the other young, dynamic openings that followed. Run by partners Liz and Simon, the menu is part-Italian, part-Irish with a stellar wine list which includes sherry and three wines on tap. There are only 38 seats, so reservations (especially at the weekend) are essential. With the couple due to open their second restaurant ‘Uno Mas’ later this year, we thought it was time to revisit one of the game-changers on the Dublin restaurant scene. Where’s good for a drink beforehand? There’s a strong argument for going straight to Etto and getting stuck into their sherry or prosecco on tap, but if you’d rather a change of scene we’d suggest La Cave on South Anne Street for the best value glass of fizz in the city (€8.95 for proper Crémant de Bourgogne), or for cocktails try Peruke and Periwig . If it’s a pint you’re after you won’t do much better than O’Donoghues which is just a few doors down. There’s a very good chance you’ll stumble on a trad session. What’s the room like? Cosy, bistro like space with white walls, dark wood and candles. Always a nice hum of conversation but never so loud that you can’t hear your dining companions. Has that intimate feeling that’s perfect for dates or a catch up with friends. What's good to eat? In a word? Everything. We’re not sure if there’s ever been a dud dish served in Etto. Go hungry because you’ll want to start with the snacks. Smoked almonds and fino should run away and get married. The bright green olives and hake and morcilla croquettes were perfect, flavour packed pre-appetisers. For starters, the sea bream crudo with blood orange and rosemary oil is a stalwart of the menu for good reason. Light, fresh and bursting with flavour, it feels like you’re doing your body a favour by eating it. Smoky eel wrapped in salt-baked kohlrabi, up against tart granny smith and horseradish managed to convince a lifelong eel-avoider what she’s been missing out on. The one we’re still dreaming about is the stracciatella, celeriac, truffle honey, hazelnut and lovage. Gooey cheese above a pesto-like lovage sauce, with crunchy hazelnuts, smooth peelings of celeriac and umami sweetness from the truffle honey. For mains, the Côte de Bœuf has to be experienced at least once. It's a total feast of delicious, perfectly cooked meat and would easily feed three. Crispy garlic potatoes and the richest béarnaise sauce will finish you off. Vegetables are no less impressive - the roast onion squash risotto with chanterelles and tallegio lasted approximately 20 seconds while spoons clattered together scraping the plate clean. A side of hispi cabbage with buckwheat and mustard sauce was one of the most delicious incarnations of cabbage that we’ve tasted. It’s official – chargrilling anything makes it approximately 10 times tastier. Desserts don't let the side down either, and their signature red wine prunes with vanilla mascarpone is another dish that needs to be tried at least once. We also attacked the warm chocolate mousse with walnut ice cream and Campari like jackals. What about the wine? The wine list is great and although it was a slow build, they’re finally getting recognition for it and having customers order their more unusual bottles. These guys love sherry and they’ve converted many of their customers into loving it too. The combination of Equipo Navazos Fino and smoked almonds is a great start to a night out. There are three wines on tap from innovative wine importer Wine Lab (whose motto is #nocrapontap ), a prosecco, a friulano (Italian white) and a refosco (Italian red). All really solid wines and great value at €6.50 for still and €7 for sparkling. The main wine list is Italian/European heavy and has so many great names on there that choosing is the difficult part, but the lovely staff are always ready to make recommendations. We had a rich, flavour-filled verdicchio from Italian producer Fattoria San Lorenzo (€44) which did a great job of standing up to the many flavours in our starters, and a juicy, slightly savoury Zweigelt from Austrian producer Claus Preisinger (€45), which we were worried might be a bit light for the Côte de Bœuf, but in reality was a perfect match for the juiciness of the medium-rare beef. We finished with a Madeira from legends Barbeito (€10.95) and a Spanish sweet wine from Bodega Bentomiz (€9.95), which were perfect examples of why sweet wine shouldn’t be a sickly, cloying end to a meal. And the service? Unfailingly excellent. Hospitality is a hard industry to recruit for so finding consistently great staff like these is not something to brush over. Staff are attentive but unobtrusive, happy to recommend without being pushy, knowing when to come over and when to leave you alone. And they come across as really nice people who like what they're a part of. The verdict? There’s a reason why Etto is so loved, particularly by those in the food and wine trade. These guys are doing everything right. The food is uncompromisingly great, the wine list is dying for exploration, and the staff go over and above to make customers feel taken care of. If you haven’t been yet we strongly recommend rectifying that at the first available opportunity. We are counting the days until 'Uno Mas' is abierto. Etto 18 Merrion Row, Dublin 2 etto.ie New Openings & Discoveries More >>

Caryna Camerino's eponymous bakery moved from Merrion Square to Blackrock in 2025, and now sits on the former site of Fable + Stey. It's a local haven for enjoying a coffee and a cake from the display piled high, and soup, salads and sandwiches are also available. Personalised cakes and treat boxes are also available by advance order. Camerino Bakery Website camerino.ie Address Camerino Bakery (Blackrock), Newtown Park, Stillorgan Park, Blackrock, County Dublin, Ireland Good For Tag 1 Cuisine Tag 1 Once Over Read our Review >> The Story Caryna Camerino's eponymous bakery moved from Merrion Square to Blackrock in 2025, and now sits on the former site of Fable + Stey. It's a local haven for enjoying a coffee and a cake from the display piled high, and soup, salads and sandwiches are also available. Personalised cakes and treat boxes are also available by advance order. Where It's At Nearby Locales Goat's Gruff Banco Bah 33 Mark Moriarty Studio Gaffe at Leonard's Corner Sano Pasta Yibu by Janet Little Canton Dak @ Bar Anam Mongoose Chongqing Hot Pot Boco Clontarf Bell Pesto Bang Gloria Osteria Cantina Valentina D'Lepak Pera Borgo Amai by Viktor Kaizen Chubbys Badam Table 45 Comet

Orwell Road The Coppinger Row guys go south Posted: 24 Jul 2022 Neighbourhood Neighborhood Name Address Restaurant Address Website Website Name Restaurant Info View the Listing >> Written by: Lisa Cope What's the story? At the end of 2021, the Bereen brothers who owned Coppinger Row (and still own Charlotte Quay), announced that the city centre restaurant where Queen Bey herself once ate, would shut its doors for good at Christmas, after thirteen years of trading. Rather than blaming bad business or anything pandemic related, a press release explained that the building was due to be redeveloped by the landlord, and the now familiar cries of "no more hotels" started to ring out. Memories were shared, the final Flo and Basys were ordered, and the doors shut, but soon rumours started to swirl about a follow up on the southside. They publically announced the details of Orwell Road in March, just five days before opening to Rathgar locals and anyone wanting to make the journey, and we were pleased to see Daniel Hannigan, formerly head chef in ATF fav Mister S , was leading the kitchen. They opened to plenty of positive reviews, but the prices were so punchy we reasoned we'd leave it for a special occasion. You guys had other ideas, and when we let our ATF Insiders choose the location of our next review, Orwell Road was the easy front-runner, so we set off for Rathgar for a weekend lunch. Where should I sit? It's a small room and we imagine it gets quite cramped when all of the tables are full. The booths at the window and along one side are by far the most spacious, and the bar seats look appealing too, with a view directly into the kitchen. What's the food like? The menu is à la carte, which will please you if you're tired of set and tasting menus, or the demand to order three courses each including a main course (always the most boring part, is it any wonder we just want all the small plates), but prices are high, and they feel like a shock in somewhere pitching themselves as a "casual neighbourhood restaurant". Some of the opening prices have risen even further in the four months since opening. Two croquettes have gone from €6.50 to €8. Côte de boeuf has gone from €70 to €75. A side of Ballymakenny spuds have gone from €5 - €6. Obviously inflation is high and food costs are rising, but consumers have never been more concerned about what's in their pockets. Meat and fish mains were €30, €34 and €35, and comparing this to other neighbourhood restaurants, in Locks, Spitalfields and Circa mains all stay below €30. In Volpe Nera the most expensive ones just hit €30. With all that in mind this level of pricing feels ambitious. A snack of mackerel tart (€5 for two bites) with chilli ponzu was a snappy start, with fish aged by Karl Whelan in Saltwater Grocery down the road, and plenty of citrus tang from the ponzu and heat from the chilli. The only problem was a very soggy bottom - perhaps they went OTT on the dressing or it sat for too long before serving. We were slightly disappointed to see that the Andarl pork croquettes we'd seen online had been demoted to "ham and cheddar", but they were very good, with spicy wholegrain mustard giving them an edge, and a cloud of more cheese on top. They worked out at €4 each though, which felt excessive. Onto starters and their signature seems to be the "chicken and scallops", served in two parts. On a top plate comes a deboned chicken wing stuffed with its own flesh - pleasant and richly flavoured, but added crunch like the version at Library Street would improve it. Lift that and underneath scallops swim in a chicken butter sauce, with slabs of the crispiest chicken skin imaginable scattered on top. We thought that the scallops would have been a stronger dish on their own without the distraction of the wing - perfertly cooked, plump and juicy, in a sauce so rich (and a little over-salted) you'll want to tread very lightly with your spoon. The chicken skin is a masterclass in how to do it. No weedy shards around here, this is some seriously crunchy business. We'd seen the new dish of kombu-cured cod with wakame and ginger on their social media feeds, and it's a visual delight, but we felt the flavours were too tame. While the wakame and ginger were pleasant and delicate, it was missing a punch of flavour that the meaty, ultra-fresh fish needed to cut through it. The Cais na Tire tortellini in a burnt onion broth is a beautiful dish. The pasta is on the thicker side, and a thinner one would let the flavour of that beautiful sheeps' cheese filling shine through a bit more, but the broth is deep with a smoky, allium-rich flavour, and cheese and onion are bedfellows for good reason. On to mains and this is where the prices really started to sting. A €34 plate of turbot with girolles, taramasalata and chicken butter sauce (the same as earlier), came with a piece of fish no bigger than a small child's hand, seven mushrooms, a few leaves of savoy cabbage, and taramasalata so salty it was unpleasant. You will most likely need a side (€6), meaning this is a €40 dish with potatoes. We know inflation is high but this was a hard one to swallow. The fish was cooked perfectly, snow white and flaking away, but for that kind of outlay we expect a lot more. The other dish, BBQ monktail with chorizo-stuffed razor clams and seafood bisque felt a lot more substantial for a euro more (€35), with the charred, meaty fish coming away in thick chunks and the baby courgette still al dente, but the razor clams tasted of chorizo and sodden bread, any fish flavour lost to the other ingredients. Monktail isn't something you see often, so it was nice to see it here and cooked so well. As a side we ordered the obligatory spuds - these ones from Ballymakenny in Louth, with a black garlic mayo that was more sweet than pungent. They were good, appearing to be fried multiple times, but some were crunchy while others were soft and/or chewy. The crunchy ones were excellent. Dessert is something that Hannigan has always excelled at (at one point during the pandemic he opened a dessert truck), so we presume at some (if not all) of the creations here are his. We tried his vacherin in Mister S, and it's gone up a notch again, this one with hibiscus on the outside, and strawberry sorbet and vanilla on the inside. Breaking it open with a spoon is very satisfying, as is eating it. Smooth sorbet, jammy strawberries and crunchy, scented meringue make for a delicately delicious dessert that's bang on season. A salted caramel tart was also excellently executed, but again there was too much salt in parts. A cherry sorbet was bright and deeply flavoured, with macerated cherries underneath, and together they made for a lovely combination. We hadn't ordered the third dessert, elderflower ice-cream with raspberry granita, but they brought it free of charge, saying we had to try it, and it was another perfectly pulled together plate - it's hard to imagine two more fitting desserts for an Irish summer than this and the strawberry vacherin. The flavours were pure yet punchy, the colour and taste of all the elements completely vivid. What about drinks? The wine list has plenty of interest, as well some less interesting crowd pleasers, and a large proportion is available by the glass, which is so nice (and relatively unusual) to see. We tried a Spanish blend from Cellar de Ruore, and the Sicilian Palmentino Rosso from Vino di Anna - the red won in the flavour stakes. The cocktails list reads well too, and the 'Bamboo' with dry vermouth, Lillet Blanc, Fino sherry, banana and black cardamom cordial, and bitters was pleasant to sip while waiting for snacks, but on the sweeter side. How was the service? Our server could not have been more full of warmth, smiles and helpful information, and apart from one grave suggestion of serving the Vino di Anna over ice because they didn't have one chilled, didn't put a foot wrong. Dishes came out at a perfect pace, but we were the only ones there so can't speak for a busier period. And the damage? A few euro short of €200 before tip for two adults and a child, which is into the realm of two-Michelin-starred Chapter One by Mickael Viljanen, where you could have lunch for two with a nice bottle of wine for the same price. The verdict? There's a lot to like about Orwell Road, but much that could be improved too. As noted in the Woodruff once over a few months ago, the lack of a good value lunch menu is a major turn off for customers, and just bad business (Woodruff have since introduced one ), and may explain why we were the only ones there for Saturday lunch. Dinner appears to be hopping and that night they were fully booked, but those weighty prices are easier to stomach in the evening. A good value lunch menu, an early evening menu, and more generosity in the plates of food would go a long way towards ensuring the longevity that Coppinger Row had. Orwell Road 48 Orwell Road, Rathfarnham, Dublin 6 orwellroad.com New Openings & Discoveries More >>

Bovinity Capel Street gets a sleek new steakhouse Posted: 9 Aug 2022 Neighbourhood Neighborhood Name Address Restaurant Address Website Website Name Restaurant Info View the Listing >> Written by: Lisa Cope What's the story? Bovinity just appeared, fully formed, on social media at the end of June, and opened its doors to influencers and celebrities (Keith Duffy himself graced their presence on opening night) mere days later. With the neon signs, industrial chic fit out and high end cocktail shots it was clear who their target demographic was, but we struggled to get more meaningful information out of them - like who owns it and where they were sourcing their food. We eventually found out through the grapevine that it's the same owners as All Bar Chicken across the road and in Stoneybatter, which we've never been to due to the absence of free-range chicken, and were told that their steaks are sourced from FX Buckley. Things were looking up. With all the eye-catching Instagram posts and reels, including some from those there on an #invite , you guys wanted to know what it was really like, and whether Hawksmoor have anything to worry about. Where should I sit? It's a big space and there are loads of seating options. High tables seating a max of four run almost along the full wall leading from the front to the back, where you'll find lower tables and semi-private seating areas that would be ideal for small groups. There's also a lovely booth at the front inside the window that would seat at least six, but they might let you push it to more. Generally we're more fans of natural light than neon, so we'd be out front, but if you're trying to hide, talk in private or carrying out an illicit affair, head to the back. Decor is sleek, modern and industrial, and they've done a great job on the fit out. What's the food like? This is a steak house for the TikTok generation. It's simple, accessible, and there's no fancy information on there, like the provenance of their meat, fish and vegetables, or who the chef is. If you're a fan of Featherblade on Dawson Street you'll find the menu is quite similar here, with a little less flair. We started with some "bits" - very good Nocellara olives, and slightly over-toasted sourdough with truffle mascarpone. Let's be straight, there is absolutely no need for bread in a steakhouse, but it disappeared almost as fast as it hit the table - that "just sat down and starving" hunger tends to do that. If however you feel as Irish Times food critic Corinna Hardgrave does about truffle oil (that it has no place in civilised society and should be extinguished from the planet) you might want to avoid it. (Read more about that here ) On "oyster shooter" came in a pleasant Asian style dressing flecked with chilli and sesame, but when we asked where it was from we were surprised to hear "France". Even in months not ending in R (the generally accepted best months to eat oysters) there are plenty of farmed oysters available across the country, so we can only assume the choice to use imported ones was for cost reasons, and this one was very small. A starter of burrata, mixed heritage tomatoes, splodges of puréed basil and an olive crumb on the other hand hit all the right notes. A clever addition of pink pickled onions brought welcome sour notes to the plate of sweet tomatoes, creamy cheese, fragrant basil and that crunchy crumb, and this is exactly the type of summery starter you might want before diving into a steak - with a whole ball of burrata you could even share it. Our other starter of "prawns pil pil" had enough chilli, garlic and lemon to wake up the most jaded palate, and we unashamedly cleaned the plate with extra bread, but the pedantic in us was irritated by the fact that this is not pil pil - there is no lemon or any form of creaminess in pil pil. Either cook the original dish in bubbling hot, spicy, garlic oil (bread on the side thanks), or just call this prawns with garlic, lemon and chilli and we'll chill out. Onto mains and there was a choice of three steaks (one sharing), a double smash burger, and spiced aubergine for the veggies with dukkah and whipped feta. We started with the burger and were very pleasantly surprised at how good it was (we thought the steak would be the star). Two juicy patties (they would have been better if they were more pink but it takes a brave soul to do that with Environmental Health Officers breathing down your neck), excellent burger sauce, a single leaf of lettuce, cucumber pickle, melted cheese (there could have been more) and a nicely toasted brioche bun was almost faultless, and any burger chasers will want to add this to your beef patty bucket list. For steak we'd been mentally eating the sharing Côte de boeuf (a bargain at €55-€65 we were told) since Bovinity opened, so there was much dropping of faces when we were told it wasn't on. Instead they had a sharing striploin or a t-bone, priced from €55 - €85, depending on the size). We didn't fancy paying top dollar for either of those cuts, so went with a 'chef's cut' which we were told was flank (€17), and a rib-eye (€23). The chef's cut arrived and we doubted if it was actually flank - it had none of the grain, texture or mounded shape you would associate with that cut of beef. Instead it was very soft and tasted woolly, as if it had been cooked for too long in a water bath. It looked and tasted more like Featherblade, which is a beautiful cut when cooked right, but something had gone wrong here. The rib-eye was much better, cooked perfectly medium-rare, nicely browned on the outside, and great flavour throughout. They're not huge steaks, but as city centre prices go it felt like value for money. We've been told by multiple people that steaks come from FX Buckley, and we're not sure why they're not shouting about that. The only problem with both steaks was the sickly sweet onion marmalade that came on the side, and would be far better suited to a cheese plate than a chef's cut of meat. It was completely over-powering, ruining the flavour of the meat, and we advise you to scrape it to the side or ask them not to bring it at all. Especially because the sauces are so damn good. Both the béarnaise and chimichurri were textbook perfect, so automatically adding the onion stuff to plates is ill-judged. There's also peppercorn, mushroom, and we were very, very tempted to order the bone gravy. Chips were good too, skin on, crisp and hot. You can get them naked or with truffle and parmesan (see earlier note on truffle oil), and one is clearly more wanton than the other so choose based on stomach space/satiety needed. You're going to want to try the onion strings (more wanton abandon here), which consist of long strings of deep fried onion, just cooked so there's still the slightest crunch, and although we thought they would have benefited from being a touch crispier, this is a side of the "take it away from me or I'll keep eating it" variety. The only bum-note came with the 'creamed spinach', which first came as a ramekin of 'dry spinach', flaking around our forks like tiny pieces of crepe paper. We called staff and said we didn't think it was right, and were told "that's how it comes", and had to persist until it was taken back to the kitchen and shown to the chef. Eventually we were delivered actual creamed spinach, and it was actually very good, with the perfect amount of cream and nutmeg - we were just left scratching our heads as to how it went so wrong first time round, and why staff weren't falling over themselves to take this dry pot of flaky greens away from us. There are two desserts on the menu, both incredibly heavy for following steak and chips (and the rest), and we think they would have been wise to have something simple, straightforward and lighter on there to end with. Instead you've got a pistachio and apricot bread and butter pudding with crème anglaise and vanilla ice-cream. It's very good, we'd happily eat it for breakfast, lunch or dinner, but after a heavy meal you'll want a spoon or two at most. The other one they're calling "The Marathon - If ya know ya know". If ya don't know, it's a bowl of very good (but again very heavy) chocolate ganache with whole peanuts, a light, creamy topping (somewhere between whipped cream and ice-cream), and more chocolate on top along with edible gold leaf. The same applies to this one - a few spoons and you'll be begging for mercy (or a second stomach). Basically you will not need a dessert per person, but they're worth trying. What about drinks? We were told by past visitors to try the bell pepper sour and it was excellent, with all the tang, bitterness and smoky depth you would hope for. It's clear that work and energy has gone into the cocktail list, and there's loads on there we would have liked to order, including their version of a Negroni with Valentia Island vermouth, and a Bloody Mary with tomato and pickle juice. The beer list is short but not the usual suspects either, with local options from Rascals and the Dublin City Brewing Company. An Irish craft cider would complete the picture. Wines are sadly less exciting, and the two we tried tasted sterile, more like something from a supermarket than a quality steakhouse. We had to send back a Mencia as it tasted off, as if it had been open too long. A freshly opened bottle was better, but as Mencia goes this was not a great example. An Italian blend wasn't much better, and we found ourselves wishing we'd stuck to cocktails. Clearly they're focused on price/value rather than trying to create an award-winning wine list, but they could do better, and to not have something big like a Malbec or Cabernet Sauvignon by the glass seems like a big oversight. How was the service? Mostly pleasant but after having to call the server a couple of times to complain, there was a subtle sense of "here go the Karens" again. Situations could have been handled with more care and genuine apologies - instead we felt as if we were the problem. We've had far, far worse service experiences, but some training is needed. And the damage? €145.50 before tip for enough food to comfortably feed three hungry adults with a drink each. As the city centre goes right now it felt like decent value, but would be more so if they just tightened things up a bit. The verdict? Bovinity has brought a bit of glam to Capel Street, and many, many Instagrammable/TikTokable opportunities for anyone who walks through the door, phone firmly in hand. There's a lot of potential here if they can tighten up the food and iron out the creases in service, and we imagine they're looking at more sites, so hopefully this is their number one focus before any expansion plans. There's plenty of gaps in the Dublin market when it come to casual, quality dining experiences, on the lower side of spend and the higher side of fun, and if they put all of their energy into elevating the experience here, and forgot about getting screentime on influencer accounts, we think they'd get to where they need to be much sooner. Bovinity 123 Capel Street, Dublin 1 bovinity.ie New Openings & Discoveries More >>

Banco The Two Minute Review Posted: 14 Jul 2026 Neighbourhood Neighborhood Name Address Restaurant Address Website Website Name Restaurant Info View the Listing >> Written by: Ronan Doyle What’s the story with Banco? The queues speak for themselves – not since 2008 have we seen such a run on a Banco around here. The new Italian bakery from Roberto Mungo is the third tricolour he’s planted on Stoneybatter’s main street, and one rallied to by locals and blow-ins alike with the same fervour as his still-packed Grano and neighbouring wine bar A Fianco . What should we get? Planning, for one – arrive at the wrong time and you’ll spend half your day in a hangry line, nose aloft to the taunting aromas escaping the forno before the focaccia drops at 11:00 sharp. Take our cue and show up fifteen minutes beforehand to pre-order the goods and enjoy a coffee and pastry while you wait for yours to be the first number called. Did somebody say pastry? Per favore, pasticerria . It’ll be no shock to any Grano fans that the counter here is stacked with stuff you’ll be dreaming back on all day. None go better with the coffee than the cupola tiramisu (€4.90), flaky layers of espresso-loaded dough and thickly tasty mascarpone. It’s an inspired adaptation of the original, also available in jars on the counter (€7.50) if you need a popularity boost back home, and it's just as good as any time we’ve indulged across the road. The dough here is more bread than butter-forward, which is small wonder for a man who grows and mills his own senatore cappelli flour back at the Calabrian plot he was raised on. Its lower gluten content suits the caky cornetto alla crema (€3.90), Italy’s answer to the croissant and a more extravagant start to the day. Nut notes in the flour work wonders with the pistachio cream-slicked girella, and the hazelnut-stuffed noccila roll (both €4.60); the former’s citric kick from candied orange peel just about stole the show. Only a crostatina alla marmellata (€4.30) left us a little let down, with too-thick pastry robbing the shell of the kind of crisp snap to do the tart raspberry jam justice. How are the sandwiches? That's where the wheat really shines, bringing the thin crispness and dense chew typical of Roman-style focaccia. Crust-to-filling ratio is paramount - they’re built out rather than up, all the better to contain piles of premium ingredients. The purest is prosciutto (€10.50), accompanied by rocket, tomato and mozzarella - summer in a slab. Better again is the veggie (€10.50), with slicks of sharp Sicilian pesto lifting the grilled aubergine and tomato to heights of homely glory. The ventrecina (€11.50) we were less sold on, the smoked scamorza not enough to keep the salame and n’duja’s sustained spice from feeling a bit one-note. A website-listed vitello tonnato, always an essential at A Fianco, cannot land on the counter soon enough. What’s the verdict? As we smugly sailed passed the mounting crowd with takeaway bag in hand, we passed by Grano and A Fianco, with teams prepping for the busy Sunday afternoon and evening ahead. Back in Banco, Roberto was on-hand but hands-off, chef’s whites swapped out for a red tee, sipping espresso and seemingly satisfied at the pace of things without him at the helm. He looked like a man ready to grant himself an afternoon off. He’s earned it. Banco 17 Stoneybatter, Dublin 7 instagram.com/banco_dublin New Openings & Discoveries More >>

Dublin isn't drowning in good Vietnamese food but Pho Kim should be on your hit list. Don't miss the 'Bun Tom Thit Nuong', with marinated pork and prawns, rice vermicelli noodles, peanuts, carrots, coriander, crispy onions, cucumber and a tangy sauce to pour over everything before diving in. Pho Kim Website phokim.ie Address 162 Parnell Street, Dublin 1 Good For Tag 1 Cuisine Tag 1 Once Over Read our Review >> The Story Dublin isn't drowning in good Vietnamese food but Pho Kim should be on your hit list. Don't miss the 'Bun Tom Thit Nuong', with marinated pork and prawns, rice vermicelli noodles, peanuts, carrots, coriander, crispy onions, cucumber and a tangy sauce to pour over everything before diving in. Where It's At Nearby Locales Goat's Gruff Banco Bah 33 Mark Moriarty Studio Gaffe at Leonard's Corner Sano Pasta Yibu by Janet Little Canton Dak @ Bar Anam Mongoose Chongqing Hot Pot Boco Clontarf Bell Pesto Bang Gloria Osteria Cantina Valentina D'Lepak Pera Borgo Amai by Viktor Kaizen Chubbys Badam Table 45 Comet

Game-changing barbecue from the guys behind Featherblade. The best Irish produce like Andarl Farm pork, Ridgeway Wagyu beef and North Dublin hispi cabbage, cooked over open-fire and popping with flavour. Great prices, wines and cocktails, and one of the best additions to the Dublin dining scene in years. Mister S Website misters.ie Address 32 Camden Street Lower, Dublin 2 Good For Tag 1 Cuisine Tag 1 Once Over Read our Review >> The Story Game-changing barbecue from the guys behind Featherblade. The best Irish produce like Andarl Farm pork, Ridgeway Wagyu beef and North Dublin hispi cabbage, cooked over open-fire and popping with flavour. Great prices, wines and cocktails, and one of the best additions to the Dublin dining scene in years. Where It's At Nearby Locales Goat's Gruff Banco Bah 33 Mark Moriarty Studio Gaffe at Leonard's Corner Sano Pasta Yibu by Janet Little Canton Dak @ Bar Anam Mongoose Chongqing Hot Pot Boco Clontarf Bell Pesto Bang Gloria Osteria Cantina Valentina D'Lepak Pera Borgo Amai by Viktor Kaizen Chubbys Badam Table 45 Comet

Daruma Japanese drinks and small plates in Temple Bar Posted: 13 Dec 2022 Neighbourhood Neighborhood Name Address Restaurant Address Website Website Name Restaurant Info View the Listing >> Written by: Lisa Cope What's the story? Daruma appeared quite suddenly in October in the old Fish Shack site on Parliament Street, with an Instagram post heralding their arrival one Sunday, and doors opening to customers two days later. After a bit of investigating we heard there was a connection to Big Fan and our ears perked up (turns out they have a backer in common), and the two owner/operators are former managers of Musashi , the Japanese sushi chain. The discussion of why Dublin has no high end, ultra exciting Japanese restaurants is an ever-ongoing one amongst food circles, and there was some hopeful whispering that this might be the one we've all been waiting for. We loved the Japanese pub with small plates vibe they were selling online, but unlike Big Fan (which has been one of the biggest restaurant successes from the past two years), it didn't seem to be built around a particular chef and their talent. We also couldn't find anyone Japanese who was associated with it - not a pre-requisite for opening a Japanese restaurant, but it tends to go in their favour when someone has a strong connection to a cuisine they're trying to showcase. Between this and the lack of a website containing a menu/opening hours/online booking (basic in 2022) The jury was out before we'd gotten in. Where should we sit? Most of the tables are at the front, with the best one at the window looking out onto Parliament Street. There's also bar seating which looked ideal for a solo pint and some small plates. What did you eat? We covered quite a lot of the menu over two visits, so let's lay out the good, from the not so good. There are four sections - raw, robatayaki, bites and sides. Daikon 'saibaizu' (which we presume is meant to be 'sanbaizu', a Japanese dressing with rice wine vinegar, sugar and soy) was refreshing and crunchy, an excellent palate cleanser, while charred edamame were pointless, the additional heat adding nothing except over-cooking. They were also criminally under-salted - we asked for more and fixed the problem ourselves. Garlic chilli cucumber was another lip-smacking refresher, smoky and spicy with plenty of sesame and crunch. Fresh oysters came with a lovely, zingy apple and mustard tosazu dressing (a fermented rice wine vinegar), but we wished we knew where they came from, and whether they were Irish. There's no provenance information on the menu. Tuna tataki with candy ginger and wasabi daikon had great flavour and some really interesting elements, but the tuna tasted soft and woolly. At €13.95 for six pieces we expected better fish Our favourite dish (and one we ordered both times) was the flamed salmon nigiri, with kewpie mayo and hazelnut furikake. The salmon is just cooked, and between the sweet, nutty dressing and the slight crunch of the hazelnuts, this is the kind of innovative sushi we want more of. We had a pain in our faces trying to find out what the daily sushi omasake roll was, and after almost having to hold our waitress's hand and lead her in the direction of the kitchen, she came back and told us it was eel. "Is there anything else?" we asked. "No, just eel". It didn't seem likely, but we were worn out so just let them bring it, and we still can't tell you what was in it. There was some fish roe and kewpie mayo on top and what we guessed powdered seaweed, but apart from that it's anyone's guess, and it was lacking flavour and texture. Crispy almond ebi with mango chilli sauce (€12.45 for three) were huge and we loved the combination of flavours, but there was a bit too much batter. The almonds did add an interesting element though. They do two types of ribs - beef short ribs with black garlic butter, and plum wine short ribs with creamy onion mochi. Both were incredibly tender, the beef sweet and pungent from the black garlic, the pork sweet and fruity from the plum wine and the onion. We would order both again tomorrow, but we'd really like to know where the meat came from. A third of their menu is given over the Robatayaki (like Japanese BBQ where food is cooked over charcoal), so we were surprised that this was the most disappointing part of the meal. It started with the waitress not knowing what was on the 'Daruma Selection', and seemingly not wanting to ask, and then when it arrived each was more lacklustre than the last. None of the headline stuff like scallops or ox tongue is on there - we got chicken thigh, minced chicken, pork belly, and two different mushrooms (which felt like a cop out) and none of it had much flavour other than a teriyaki type marinade. If charcoal ever went near this meat, we couldn't taste it. There's no dessert on the menu and when we asked if they had any our waitress didn't know, and didn't seem to want to find out. After pushing the issue she returned and told us they had mochi, but it was clear they were coming from a box in the freezer, so we passed. What about the drinks? They're serious about their sake in here, and have clearly taken time over the menu. They have seven sake cocktails, and had another two on special when we visited, and they're all low alcohol, so don't expect to feel the usual cocktail buzz. An 'Ichigo' with sake, strawberry, chilli, lime and sugar was pleasant but punchily sour, and serving it in a Champagne flute felt wrong. A lychee special with sake, lychee juice, lime juice, sugar and egg white was a world better, and so easy to knock back we almost had to place it out of reach. There's Asahi for beer and an average wine list, so we'd stick to the sake. We also tried a couple of straight sakes (a Kidosumi and a Gassan) and they were excellent - it's obvious they're not dealing with supermarket stuff or the big brands found in most Japanese restaurants in Ireland. How was the service? Friendly but lacking in actual service. We were almost turning blue waiting for answers to the questions we had about the menu, with the same waitress on both occasions saying she didn't know, and pleasantly looking back at us as if that was the end of that. We had to straight out ask someone to go down to the kitchen more times than we'd like to admit to find out what was on the robata selection, what was the sushi roll of the day, did they have any dessert - it was very tiring, and service training is badly needed. And the damage? €57 a head (to be exact) for dinner before tip, with three drinks each in that. €30 a head for lunch with no drinks. What's the verdict? Is Daruma the Japanese restaurant Dublin has been waiting for? No. Not yet anyway, but there's plenty of decent food and sake to kill a couple of hours. They're got more interesting options than a lot of Japanese restaurants in the city, many of whom stick to the same menu of gyoza, sushi and the wok/rice/noodle dishes we're all too familiar with, but it does somewhat kill us to imagine what it could be like with a culinary tour de force (like Big Fan's Alex Zhang) in the kitchen. For now enjoy it for what is it - a pocket-friendly, laid back Japanese bar, where you can order as little or as much as you like, and drink really good sake. Daruma 13 Parliament Street, Temple Bar, Dublin 2 instagram.com/daruma_dublin New Openings & Discoveries More >>

Table Wine Parisian vibes on Pleasants Street Posted: 7 Dec 2021 Neighbourhood Neighborhood Name Address Restaurant Address Website Website Name Restaurant Info View the Listing >> Written by: Lisa Cope What’s the story? When it comes to capturing the Dublin zeitgeist, not many business owners are as adept at it as the guys who opened Meet Me In The Morning, Reference Coffee, Loose Canon, Benedict's Egg Shop, and now, Table Wine . They've evolved as needed over the years, recently closing Benedict's (which seemed less to do with its success and more to do with logistics/staff issues and/or the ability to make a decent living from egg sandwiches), and while there were tears shed across the city when they announced they were getting out of the brunch game and closing MMITM, the nooooos slowly turned to ohhhhs when it transpired they were opening a wine bar on the same site. Formerly named Reference Coffee next door is now "The Morning", and MMITM is now "Table Wine". Loose Canon is sill Loose Canon. Up to speed? In truth these guys have always wanted to bring more to the Dublin wine scene ( Loose Canon was pretty ground-breaking when it came to natural wine in the capital), and Table Wine has been in their heads for a long time. Co-owner Brian O'Keeffe used to live in Paris and came home with his head spinning about why Dublin didn't have more dimly lit, caves à vins, serving interesting small plates in casual surroundings alongside the best natural wines around - even if it meant importing them direct. The pandemic put a halt to their plans (them and everyone else), but at the end of November they quietly opened the doors on Pleasants Street with only those in the know clued in enough to visit - which obviously includes us, and you if you're reading this. Where should we sit? It's the same set up as MMITM, with wooden tables and chairs on the lower and upper floors. Tables are well spaced out, but this means they have less seats than before, so we imagine it might be challenging to get a table at peak times if not booked in advance. Downstairs there's a nice bird's eye view into the kitchen, as well as the perfect people watching perch inside the door. Upstairs would be better for more intimate dinner dates or when you've got all the goss to spill. What's the food like? Sharing plates, i.e. our favourite, each one sounding more appetising than the last. Nothing really constitutes a "main", so even the rogue friend who doesn't like to share will be forced to - *evil laugh*. We started with perfect plates to pick at over that first glass of wine - pink pickled eggs with mayo, soy pickled mushrooms, and they brought sourdough, because everything's better with sourdough. The mushrooms in particular deserve singling out for their especially complex, floral flavours with the mildest bite of acidity. We would fling these in a toastie, risotto, on a cheese board - you name it, we'll try it. There's a nice amount of vegetable/cheese based dishes for any veggies in your life, and spuds are a highlight here. The firmer, pink fir apple variety are cooked beautifully, then tossed in garlic butter topped with chives - the new chips. Another dish everyone seems to be loving (us included) is the Crown Prince pumpkin (McNally Farm's finest) with Cais na Tire cheese sauce. The Tipperary sheep's cheese can do no wrong in our eyes, and we would eat it on practically anything, so how could you not love this dish, although it would have been nice to have an element of crunch, so maybe save some sourdough crust if you have the willpower. You're probably sick of us bemoaning the lack of ceviche in the city, so we jumped to order the one here, but it didn't quite have the bracing, slap around the face we like when it comes to citrus cured fish. Ours was made with seabream (we'd also love to see a move to lesser known fish or by-catch), lime leaf oil, chilli and kombucha, and while flavours were pleasant, it was too mild for our Peruvian-loving tastes. You're going to be seeing Table Wine's crab sandwich everywhere, and while you may initially think, "€20 for a sandwich?", this is no ordinary sandwich. It's a triple decker, Lambay crab stuffed, Hegarty's cheddar covered masterstroke, with deep-fried Jerusalem artichoke crisps the icing on the cheesy-crab cake. A warning however - it's as heavy as it sounds, and even one between two will make much of the rest of the menu moot - one between 3 or four would be perfect if you've come to work your way through their offering. Saying that there would be worse ways to slip into a food coma than popping in here for one of these and a glass of wine after a hard day. We love flower sprouts, or kalettes as they've now been renamed as apparently that causes sales to go up, but didn't think they worked here in a simple tempura batter. They needed something to be dipped into, and the kitchen brought a fantastic tomatillo relish on request which rescued things. That tomatillo relish was destined for our dish of the night - the unmissable veal salami, red chilli and poblano pepper croquettes. If we'd had these first, a second (and maybe third) order would have gone into the kitchen, but sadly we were too stuffed full of crab to consider it for more than 5-6 minutes tops. Perfect bites of endless flavour, and that tangy relish underneath just gave them added pizazz. Dessert currently consists of sorbet and ice-cream, and we ordered one of each. Crown Prince pumpkin ice-cream was full of spice and all things nice, brown butter ice-cream literally takes browned butter and churns it in there (how could that not taste good), but the one that disappeared fastest was the yoghurt sorbet with elderflower, whiskey and brandy snaps. A simple but effective ending to a meal full of different flavours. What about the drinks? This is a natural wine bar first and foremost, so if you're not into it, one of the major cornerstones of this place will be lost on you. If you are, you'll be in funk-filled heaven, and there's loads of unusual bottles to work your way through. There's currently only five wines by the glass - hopefully that will expand over time - and bottles start at around €40. We drank a really beautiful gamay from Alexandre Bain in the Loire Valley, and a simpler but still very enjoyable Langhe Nebbiolo from Trediberri, which is an entry level wine on the list. Staff will be delighted to make recommendations for you. And the service? Happy, welcoming and confidently relaxed. Staff seemed like they'd been there years, and everything was very smooth. The chef brought out most of the dishes himself, which gave us a chance to quiz him on their contents and cooking methods. It wasn't full, which always makes thing easier, but the whole places gives off a very chilled out vibe, and it's hard to imagine that changing, even with more bodies in the place. And the damage? €70 a head, which felt like decent value for what we had. The verdict? A UK-based food writer visited here a few weeks ago and whilst in the food planning stage mentioned that she would like to visit several of the best restaurants in the city, "to try a few plates" in each. We didn't know whether to laugh or cry, but had to break it to her that there are very few places here that you can realistically include on a bone fide restaurant crawl, and not be expected to book weeks in advance - we're not in London any more Toto. This Pleasants Street retreat is exactly what she was looking for, and we hope they can maintain the laid back, formula-free, continental Europe feel of it all. God knows we all need a bit more spontaneity in life right now, and being able to pop in here for delicious, dynamic, ever-changing small plates and great wine at short notice would turn the worst day on its head. Here's hoping this is the start of a new wave of casual, food-focused wine bars, because post (mid?)-pandemic we need all the joy we can get our hands on. Table Wine 50 Pleasants Street, Dublin 8 www.tablewine.ie New Openings & Discoveries More >>

TV chef Mark Moriarty's part-restaurant, part-studio, park test kitchen opened in August and instantly became one of the most intimate dining experiences in Dublin. We thought the food on opening night was easily Michelin-star level, and the underground space in Wilton Park feels like stepping out of reality for a few hours. The initial plan was to only open to the public on Friday nights and take group bookings on other nights, but they've expanded it to more sporadic dates - just make sure you're on their mailing list if you want to hear about them. Mark Moriarty Studio Website markmoriarty.ie/studio Address Wilton Park Studios, Dublin 2, D02 VO76, Ireland Good For Tag 1 Cuisine Tag 1 Once Over Read our Review >> The Story TV chef Mark Moriarty's part-restaurant, part-studio, park test kitchen opened in August and instantly became one of the most intimate dining experiences in Dublin. We thought the food on opening night was easily Michelin-star level, and the underground space in Wilton Park feels like stepping out of reality for a few hours. The initial plan was to only open to the public on Friday nights and take group bookings on other nights, but they've expanded it to more sporadic dates - just make sure you're on their mailing list if you want to hear about them. Where It's At Nearby Locales Goat's Gruff Banco Bah 33 Mark Moriarty Studio Gaffe at Leonard's Corner Sano Pasta Yibu by Janet Little Canton Dak @ Bar Anam Mongoose Chongqing Hot Pot Boco Clontarf Bell Pesto Bang Gloria Osteria Cantina Valentina D'Lepak Pera Borgo Amai by Viktor Kaizen Chubbys Badam Table 45 Comet

Grano describe their very own "forno" as "an artisan bakery dedicated to the craft of Italian baking and pasta, with grain at the centre of everything". Owner Roberto imports his own from his home region of Calabria, using it to make pastries, focaccia Romana, and fresh pasta, all made daily in Banco's open kitchen. Sell outs are inevitable so we strongly advise finding out what's coming out of the ovens when before making a special trip. No one wants to leave here empty handed. Banco Website banco.ie Address Dublin, Co. Dublin, D07 FP97, Ireland Good For Tag 1 Cuisine Tag 1 Once Over Read our Review >> The Story Grano describe their very own "forno" as "an artisan bakery dedicated to the craft of Italian baking and pasta, with grain at the centre of everything". Owner Roberto imports his own from his home region of Calabria, using it to make pastries, focaccia Romana, and fresh pasta, all made daily in Banco's open kitchen. Sell outs are inevitable so we strongly advise finding out what's coming out of the ovens when before making a special trip. No one wants to leave here empty handed. Where It's At Nearby Locales Goat's Gruff Banco Bah 33 Mark Moriarty Studio Gaffe at Leonard's Corner Sano Pasta Yibu by Janet Little Canton Dak @ Bar Anam Mongoose Chongqing Hot Pot Boco Clontarf Bell Pesto Bang Gloria Osteria Cantina Valentina D'Lepak Pera Borgo Amai by Viktor Kaizen Chubbys Badam Table 45 Comet

You’ll probably spot Strudel Artisan Bakery by the hungry looking queue forming outside from around 8am, and one glance at their Instagram page will make you understand why. From chocolate babka to savoury brioche, this is peak pastry, worth travelling a long distance for. Strudel Bakery Website strudelbakery.com Address 105 Patrick Street, Dún Laoghaire, County Dublin Good For Tag 1 Cuisine Tag 1 Once Over Read our Review >> The Story You’ll probably spot Strudel Artisan Bakery by the hungry looking queue forming outside from around 8am, and one glance at their Instagram page will make you understand why. From chocolate babka to savoury brioche, this is peak pastry, worth travelling a long distance for. Where It's At Nearby Locales Goat's Gruff Banco Bah 33 Mark Moriarty Studio Gaffe at Leonard's Corner Sano Pasta Yibu by Janet Little Canton Dak @ Bar Anam Mongoose Chongqing Hot Pot Boco Clontarf Bell Pesto Bang Gloria Osteria Cantina Valentina D'Lepak Pera Borgo Amai by Viktor Kaizen Chubbys Badam Table 45 Comet

Busy neighbourhood restaurant in Harold’s Cross from Chef Philip Yeung, formerly Head Chef at Bang Restaurant and Town Bar and Grill. Seasonal cooking and excellent provenance in a modern, minimalistic dining room. Craft Website craftrestaurant.ie Address 208 Harold’s Cross Road, Harold’s Cross, Dublin 6W Good For Tag 1 Cuisine Tag 1 Once Over Read our Review >> The Story Busy neighbourhood restaurant in Harold’s Cross from Chef Philip Yeung, formerly Head Chef at Bang Restaurant and Town Bar and Grill. Seasonal cooking and excellent provenance in a modern, minimalistic dining room. Where It's At Nearby Locales Goat's Gruff Banco Bah 33 Mark Moriarty Studio Gaffe at Leonard's Corner Sano Pasta Yibu by Janet Little Canton Dak @ Bar Anam Mongoose Chongqing Hot Pot Boco Clontarf Bell Pesto Bang Gloria Osteria Cantina Valentina D'Lepak Pera Borgo Amai by Viktor Kaizen Chubbys Badam Table 45 Comet

Matsukawa This 8-seater omakase has finally brought top tier Japanese food to Dublin Posted: 20 Sept 2023 Neighbourhood Neighborhood Name Address Restaurant Address Website Website Name Restaurant Info View the Listing >> Written by: Ronan Doyle What's the story with Matsukawa? Few new restaurants in recent memory have been subject to more feverish speculation and baited breath than Matsukawa , which opened late last month in the Smithfield site previously home to veggie and vegan café Woke Cup Café. We first twigged there was something interesting going on when we spotted the fitout underway, and as the pieces fell into place – and we spied a couple of late-night menu tests underway – word got out that Ireland’s first omakase restaurant had arrived. The Japanese fine dining concept is built around quality produce and expert technique, with a communal counter placing you up close and personal with every step of the preparation process. Chef Takuma Tamaoki served omakase in Tokyo before arriving in Ireland in 2016, where he settled in Galway and joined the team at Wa Sushi , rightly regarded as one of the country’s few genuinely great Japanese options. He made the move east seeking broader experience and landed in Yamamori where, in a neat twist for which we should all be grateful, fellow chef Yu Uchida noticed the sashimi had all of a sudden kicked into high gear. A few drinks and a lightbulb moment later, and the pair agreed to partner up and introduce Dublin to this Japanese style of eating. Where should we sit? There’s no choice in the eight stools arranged around Tamaoki’s workspace, and no need for any – all of these seats, already among Dublin’s most in-demand, offer an eagle-eyed view of the poise and precision that goes into each of the eighteen plates coming your way. Expect to make friends here - with the collective oohs and aahs as each new dish is assembled, any hodge-podge of couples and solo diners can’t but be brought together in this shared experience. What's on the menu? The glitter-flecked prettiness of the printed paper that greets you at your seat in Matsukawa is less a menu than an opening sneak peek. The pleasure of omakase, a term derived from the verb ‘to entrust’, is in putting yourself wholly in the hands of a talented chef, wherever they may opt to take you. As such you’re not likely to see the same rundown in here on any two nights, with dishes dependent on the latest catch, seasonal veg, and Tamaoki’s evolving instincts. A set structure prevails, moving from salad starters and sashimi through a warm dish and nigiri before alighting on miso soup and a light dessert. By the time we got in Matsukawa had hardly got through its first week’s service, and we’d already heard of significant variations - surely a great herald for repeat visits to come. On our allotted night, things kicked off with soy-marinated courgette and a salad of spring onion and squid in karashi sumiso – a tangy, tasty dressing of miso and mustard. As overtures go, it’s exact in its promise - fresh with full flavours; simple and satisfying; delicately presented. The sashimi course that follows, hamachi and salmon in our case, comes alongside a petite mound of fresh wasabi, energetically grated before your eyes. The pre-packed one-note nose-wrinkler of cheap sushi joints this is not – Matsukawa’s wasabi has a freshness and complexity that only comes from the genuine article, shipped in straight from Japan. Due to a host of logistical complexities the same’s not true of the fish, which they’ve sourced almost entirely from Spain – a slight disappointment given the quality produce available from Irish waters. In some cases, like the hamachi, the import makes sense; elsewhere like the salmon, it’s of an undeniably lesser quality. Still, the sashimi’s a great intro to Tamaoki’s command of high-end edomae sushi technique - this is fresh, firm, impeccably-cured fish. Next came the chawanmushi, a savoury steamed custard whose little accompanying wooden spoon is like a spade to dig for buried treasure. Among the just-set egg which dissolves in the mouth, we delighted in discovering a nugget of super-tender sweet prawn, firm edamame bean and a little sliver of shiitake – this is a joy of a dish. The fun of chef’s tables is often in flashes of flame or tweezer-precise plating. Not so Matsukawa – here, it’s all about the hypnotic rhythms of Tamaoki’s hands in full flight. The delicate slices of cured fish he has quietly prepared throughout the preceding courses are now spellbindingly assembled into perfect nigiri - a palmful of vinegar-seasoned rice rolled with wasabi beneath the firm fish, and finished with a careful dab or brush of assorted extras. We began with beautifully pickled mackerel and mild and meaty sea bream, both anointed with a concentrated soy reduction you will want to sup by the spoonful before the night is out. Then to lemon sole subtly flavoured in a soy-onion marinade, and sea bass with delicate sweetness bolstered by a squeeze of lemon and sprinkle of Dingle sea salt. By now any naysayers who might have scoffed at the sameness of eleven nigiri in sequence will have eaten their words along with their fish: the real pleasure of Matsukawa, in the repeated notes of each of these morsels, is in seeing Tamaoki’s treatment of each piece and how its unique character is teased out. This is a man who has thought deeply about fish – by the time you leave, you will have too. He's thought about sequencing too, and there’s a clear pace to the way the treatments get steadily more complex before paring back for the final pieces. The John Dory was the peak, topped with a dab of sweet miso and given a short, sharp blast of a blowtorch to cut through its meatiness with a subtle smoke. Yellowfin tuna, its edges bearing tell-tale signs of dry curing, gets a daub of mustard for a real richness and depth of flavour that elevates this to amongst the best of the night. Bluefin tuna to follow brings home the difference between the two, thanks not least to the nine-day aging approach Tamaoki has taken to make the flesh’s prized fattiness all the more pronounced – it’s a treat. The hamachi belly gestures back to the leaner earlier sashimi, a nice reminder that even within an individual fish the variety and possibilities can be many. Save for introducing each piece to each diner as he places it on each plate, an eight times repeated refrain that takes on the calming air of a mantra, Tamaoki works in quiet restraint, but lights up when asked for any more info. So it was when we needed to know what he’d dusted over the prawn – wide eyes followed when he revealed it’s a head and shell powder. The intensity of flavour is exceptional, added umami to the meat’s succulent sweetness. The salmon though, again, feels a little lacking in flavour – in a place where quality is key, this is a bump in the road. The final nigiri is a suitable showstopper, with the unmistakable marbling of otoro, or bluefin tuna belly, turning every head at the table. This superb cut is just about as good as fish gets and, true to form, Tamaoki has brought out its best by in this case doing very little at all. The tender, fatty flesh dissolves like butter in the mouth, an incredible outro indulgence that sees this section of the meal out on a high. The omelette that follows is not in the rolled tamagoyaki style that might be more familiar - Tamaoki has taken eggs, and eggs only, and whipped them to an intensely airy texture that feels positively cakey. It’s an impressive feat, if in practice a bit of a stop-gap palate cleanser. Connemara clams are the sole exception to the seafood’s Spanish sourcing, and an ingredient Tamaoki is particularly passionate about, telling us he ranks them among the best shellfish around. As served up here, it’s hard to disagree – swimming in a superb white miso broth alongside slivered spring onions, they’re a tantalising hint of what Matsukawa might achieve if it manages to work more native produce into its menus. A simple, prettily-plated dessert of red beans in red bean jelly offered little to shout about, though not much to moan about either – the muted flavours of the pressed jelly are a fitting follow-up to the straight-up theme of the evening, but the dish leans heavily on the sour-sweet sharpness of strawberry to bring it to life. It’s not quite a bum note, but neither is it anything we’d have much missed. What about drinks? In a generous move we’d love to see more high-priced places mirror, still and sparkling water is free and topped up as quick as you can drink it – the same goes for an intensely earthy, imported green tea served cold throughout and then hot with dessert. Minimal beer and wine options are passable but clearly not what they want you drinking – here, it’s all about the sake. We started with a glass of the sparkling and its subtle fizz and subdued flavours made for a fine match to the salads and sashimi. Fuller-bodied but with a more delicate and almost ephemeral taste is the Daiginjou - served chilled, this high-grade sake is superb slowly sipped alongside the nigiri. Rich, sweet, aromatic plum wine is served on the rocks with soda – we enjoyed this cocktail’s fruity depths alongside dessert but it would be all the better as an aperitif savoured as the first dishes are divvied up before you. How was the service? Typical of the omakase experience, there’s as much focus on service as food here and chef Tamaoki is a consummate pro – we watched with interest as he joined in on a Japanese pair’s nostalgia, left a happy couple largely to their own devices, and cheerily indulged a solo diner’s enthusiastic enquiries throughout the night. His manner with his customers is much the same as with his fish - every one calls for its own tailored treatment. A pair of kimono-clad servers are quick on the offing with any empty water glass and happy to help you pick out a sake. What was the damage? It’s €90 a head here for the full omakase menu, which puts Matsukawa more in the special occasion category than the casual midweek catchup one – particularly once you factor in a glass or two of sake. For the quality of cooking here though, not to mention its novelty among Dublin restaurants and that all-important free water, it’s a reasonable price. With the whole experience lasting two and a half hours and Tamaoki’s technique turning heads throughout, food lovers should think of this as a two-for-one ticket: dinner and a show. And the verdict? Ireland at large, and Dublin in particular, has long been bizarrely starved of genuinely top-tier Japanese food. Now, following the envy induced by Galway’s Wa Sushi and Cork’s Miyazaki and Ichigo Ichie , the capital finally has its own answer. To see such practiced perfectionism up close and personal is a rare treat; to have it at last on our doorstep is a cause for celebration. There is room for improvement here, no question – sourcing all fish from Spain seems designed to keep costs down but costs quality in some cases – but it’s clear Tamaoki is keenly aware of its limits and intent on overcoming them. Seats here will not be easy to come by, and rightly so (at time of writing, we could find just two available through to the end of the year, even with a second weekend sitting newly-added) but that may be no bad thing. By the time you make it in, we’d bet on Matsukawa being even better again. New Openings & Discoveries More >>

Venezuelan-born Nigely Maasud came to Ireland with hopes of starting a tour company, but after realising the capital was lacking a bonefide 'churreria', she started making them with her mother. Their market stall eventually morphed into a Temple Bar café where the crunchy, airy churros are the main attraction (don't miss the Spanish hot chocolate to dip the plain ones in), but ice-cream, crêpes and savoury Venezuelan tequenos stuffed with cheese are more reasons to take a Temple Bar pitstop. Sweet Churro Website sweetchurro.ie Address 3/4 Crow Street, Temple Bar, Dublin 2 Good For Tag 1 Cuisine Tag 1 Once Over Read our Review >> The Story Venezuelan-born Nigely Maasud came to Ireland with hopes of starting a tour company, but after realising the capital was lacking a bonefide 'churreria', she started making them with her mother. Their market stall eventually morphed into a Temple Bar café where the crunchy, airy churros are the main attraction (don't miss the Spanish hot chocolate to dip the plain ones in), but ice-cream, crêpes and savoury Venezuelan tequenos stuffed with cheese are more reasons to take a Temple Bar pitstop. Where It's At Nearby Locales Goat's Gruff Banco Bah 33 Mark Moriarty Studio Gaffe at Leonard's Corner Sano Pasta Yibu by Janet Little Canton Dak @ Bar Anam Mongoose Chongqing Hot Pot Boco Clontarf Bell Pesto Bang Gloria Osteria Cantina Valentina D'Lepak Pera Borgo Amai by Viktor Kaizen Chubbys Badam Table 45 Comet

Modern Chinese Hakkahan lit up Stoneybatter like the flames in their kitchen when they opened with dishes like basil Silverhill duck, black pepper shortrib of beef, and six different types of housemade dumplings. The narrow, pink-fronted restaurant is eternally busy so make sure to book ahead, and we advise not skipping the salt and pepper fresh squid and the pork yuk sung - both best in class. Hakkahan Website hakkahan.ie Address 32 Stoneybatter, Dublin 7 Good For Tag 1 Cuisine Tag 1 Once Over Read our Review >> The Story Modern Chinese Hakkahan lit up Stoneybatter like the flames in their kitchen when they opened with dishes like basil Silverhill duck, black pepper shortrib of beef, and six different types of housemade dumplings. The narrow, pink-fronted restaurant is eternally busy so make sure to book ahead, and we advise not skipping the salt and pepper fresh squid and the pork yuk sung - both best in class. Where It's At Nearby Locales Goat's Gruff Banco Bah 33 Mark Moriarty Studio Gaffe at Leonard's Corner Sano Pasta Yibu by Janet Little Canton Dak @ Bar Anam Mongoose Chongqing Hot Pot Boco Clontarf Bell Pesto Bang Gloria Osteria Cantina Valentina D'Lepak Pera Borgo Amai by Viktor Kaizen Chubbys Badam Table 45 Comet

Un'Altra Pasta Bar Website unaltrapastabarblackrock.ie Address Un Altra Pasta Bar Blackrock, Main Street, Blackrock, Dublin, Ireland Good For Tag 1 Cuisine Tag 1 Once Over Read our Review >> The Story Where It's At Nearby Locales Goat's Gruff Banco Bah 33 Mark Moriarty Studio Gaffe at Leonard's Corner Sano Pasta Yibu by Janet Little Canton Dak @ Bar Anam Mongoose Chongqing Hot Pot Boco Clontarf Bell Pesto Bang Gloria Osteria Cantina Valentina D'Lepak Pera Borgo Amai by Viktor Kaizen Chubbys Badam Table 45 Comet

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Allta's more casual operation next door focuses on great cocktails and an even greater burger, with a laid back vibe and good tunes. Sit at the bar or kick back at low seating over Cromane Bay oysters, Wood Town jersey steak, and roast potato ice-cream. Allta Bar Website allta.ie Address Allta Bar & Bottle Shop, Three Locks Square, Grand Canal Dock, Dublin, Ireland Good For Tag 1 Cuisine Tag 1 Once Over Read our Review >> The Story Allta's more casual operation next door focuses on great cocktails and an even greater burger, with a laid back vibe and good tunes. Sit at the bar or kick back at low seating over Cromane Bay oysters, Wood Town jersey steak, and roast potato ice-cream. Where It's At Nearby Locales Comet Daruma Malahide Lena The Pig's Ear Notions @ Two Pups The Rooftop @ Anantara The Marker Sofra Little Geno's Mama Shee Kaizen Nutbutter Smithfield Shaku Maku Mad Yolks Rathmines Una Choux Bakery Parnell Street Bakery Baily Bites @ Kish Spice Village Terenure 3fe Five Points Bujo Terenure Southbank Allta Bar Ruchii Reggie's Pizzeria Brighton Road

Vietnamese fusion food truck in the beer garden of the characterful Glimmer Man pub in Stoneybatter. Milly Murphy and Alex Gurnee starting serving their banh mi and Saigon tostadas in early 2018 using local and organic ingredients, and the menu is predominantly vegetarian, vegan and gluten free. And utterly delicious. Vietnom Website @vietnomdublin Address The Glimmer Man, 14 Stoneybatter, Dublin 7 Good For Tag 1 Cuisine Tag 1 Once Over Read our Review >> The Story Vietnamese fusion food truck in the beer garden of the characterful Glimmer Man pub in Stoneybatter. Milly Murphy and Alex Gurnee starting serving their banh mi and Saigon tostadas in early 2018 using local and organic ingredients, and the menu is predominantly vegetarian, vegan and gluten free. And utterly delicious. Where It's At Nearby Locales Comet Daruma Malahide Lena The Pig's Ear Notions @ Two Pups The Rooftop @ Anantara The Marker Sofra Little Geno's Mama Shee Kaizen Nutbutter Smithfield Shaku Maku Mad Yolks Rathmines Una Choux Bakery Parnell Street Bakery Baily Bites @ Kish Spice Village Terenure 3fe Five Points Bujo Terenure Southbank Allta Bar Ruchii Reggie's Pizzeria Brighton Road

Micro bakery Fable were given a rarely found opportunity when Sprout announced they were offering the front of their Dawson Street site to an up and coming food entrepreneur. Fable’s pitch won out, and within weeks there was a steady supply of almond buns, cinnamon knots and fruit danishes circulating around the city centre. There’s a decent amount of Sprout seating which they also share, and a coffee from Imbibe is the perfect add on. Fable Bakery Website fablebakery.com Address 3 Dawson Street, Dublin 2 Good For Tag 1 Cuisine Tag 1 Once Over Read our Review >> The Story Micro bakery Fable were given a rarely found opportunity when Sprout announced they were offering the front of their Dawson Street site to an up and coming food entrepreneur. Fable’s pitch won out, and within weeks there was a steady supply of almond buns, cinnamon knots and fruit danishes circulating around the city centre. There’s a decent amount of Sprout seating which they also share, and a coffee from Imbibe is the perfect add on. Where It's At Nearby Locales Comet Daruma Malahide Lena The Pig's Ear Notions @ Two Pups The Rooftop @ Anantara The Marker Sofra Little Geno's Mama Shee Kaizen Nutbutter Smithfield Shaku Maku Mad Yolks Rathmines Una Choux Bakery Parnell Street Bakery Baily Bites @ Kish Spice Village Terenure 3fe Five Points Bujo Terenure Southbank Allta Bar Ruchii Reggie's Pizzeria Brighton Road

Charming local wine bar filling a big hole for glasses of the good stuff with nice nibbles. Bread comes from sister bakery Arty Baker, dishes are simple but effective, and pours are on the larger side. The petit space is always busy, so go early and be prepared to wait. Le Petit Reynard Website instagram.com/lprwinebar Address Le Petit Renard, Sundrive Road, Crumlin, Dublin 12, Ireland Good For Tag 1 Cuisine Tag 1 Once Over Read our Review >> The Story Charming local wine bar filling a big hole for glasses of the good stuff with nice nibbles. Bread comes from sister bakery Arty Baker, dishes are simple but effective, and pours are on the larger side. The petit space is always busy, so go early and be prepared to wait. Where It's At Nearby Locales Comet Daruma Malahide Lena The Pig's Ear Notions @ Two Pups The Rooftop @ Anantara The Marker Sofra Little Geno's Mama Shee Kaizen Nutbutter Smithfield Shaku Maku Mad Yolks Rathmines Una Choux Bakery Parnell Street Bakery Baily Bites @ Kish Spice Village Terenure 3fe Five Points Bujo Terenure Southbank Allta Bar Ruchii Reggie's Pizzeria Brighton Road

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