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The Two Minute Review: Mrs Reid's

What’s the story with Mrs Reid’s?

 

It’s not only the name, paying tribute to co-owner Kristin Rowe’s grandmother, that gives Mrs Reid’s café a certain old-school sensibility. It’s the dust-flecked crowd of construction workers outside too, the no-fuss, no-frills ingredients spread behind the counter, the crusty soft rolls from Liberties institution Catherine’s Bakery up the way.


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Intrigued by Rowe’s mission to serve up the best breakfast roll in D8, we’d been meaning to get in here for a while before the sight of a Sloppy Joe special pushed us over the line.


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What’s on the menu?

 

Not that Sloppy tragically – we’ve learned we need to pounce quicker next time - but if we half-heartedly bit into the breakfast roll (€8) with a sad sense of second choice, what sweet reprieve it made. This is every inch a main event in its own right, a loaded lump of a thing we wolfed down in record time. Spreadable white pudding is a big part of what makes D10’s Ger’s Deli our IYKYK go-to in the breakfast roll stakes, and it’s slathered on here too with such relish that we may have a new challenger. There’s literal relish to boot – homemade too – spiking the meaty monster with just-right peaks of tartness and sweetness.


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Washed down with a cup of the fresh, full-bodied Upside Coffee they've switched to in recent months, it's as good a start to the day as we've had in a while.


If breakfast rolls aren’t your thing, firstly seek help, and secondly try the brisket (€11). We didn’t know whether to gaze lovingly at the juice oozing out of this or lap it up off the paper, so natch we did both – this is overflowing flavour not to be missed. Peppery kicks from plentiful rocket and Dijon mayo cut through the sweet richness of slow-cooked beef and a caramelised onion jam. This is indecently messy stuff, and we’re here for it every step of the way.

 

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Buffalo chicken (€10) needed just as many napkins, with gushing gluts of house hot sauce and garlic aioli leaving us streaked – a business lunch venue this place is not. It’s the spicy slaw that gives this one the edge with that crisp cabbage crunch, a fresh foil to the overflowing excess of punchy, creamy sauces. With either of these two a side of just-right roasties (€4.50) is a must to mop up all that mess.


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It’s only the meatball sub (€10) we’d skip on return – for all the layered flavour of the rich red pepper and tomato sauce they’re simmered in, these mixed pork and beef blobs were too dry and drab to hold a candle to anything else we tried.


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That’s especially as contrasted with the white pudding-studded sausage roll (€4), one of three varieties available, loaded with more of that relish and deliciously juicy through every last, flaky bite.


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Why should we go?

 

With hyper-local sourcing (meat also comes courtesy of Meath Street) and a cheerily casual vibe, Mrs Reid’s sits pretty on this street corner like the kind of good neighbour we could all do with a few more of. These are top-tier sammidges, plain and simple.


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Mrs Reid’s

Kevin Street Upper, Dublin 8

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