Kaldero 2

Why are you back at Kaldero when you reviewed it last December?

After our lacklustre review of the newest Eclective (formerly Press Up) opening Kaldero last December, someone in charge saw sense and did exactly what we suggested. They pulled the trio of consultant chefs nonsense (none of whom were actually cooking in the restaurant), and made their first ever sensible food move, by offering up the running of the restaurant solely to Bahay's Richie Castillo and Alex O'Neill.

The Filipino food-cooking couple had been looking for their own place for the past few years after the success of their food truck (dreamt up mid-pandemic), and countless pop ups at places like Hen's Teeth in Dublin 8, and Warehouse Market in Harold's Cross. At one point they announced they were opening in Dublin 15, but it fell through. Its felt like a long struggle to get to this point, where they finally have a permanent location to show off Castillo's family recipes and others from the couple's travels, and the industry has rowed in behind its latest good news story.

Where should we sit?

The room is unchanged from our first review, with those ludicrously tiny tables for two still in situ. There's not much they can do about it without ripping up the whole restaurant, but if you do have the misfortune to be sat there, make it clear that you want no more than two plates at a time - anything more and your stress levels will get uncomfortably high.

The red leather booths running down the centre of the room are the best seats, sitting four - six on each, and while we were initially told we couldn't sit there as a two, they later relented and told us we just needed to be gone by a certain time. There's a large area at the back that's screaming "group dinner", with all kinds of seating combinations possible.

How has the menu changed?

We're in unadulterated Filipino territory now, a real deep-dive into the Southeast-Asian country's dishes and cooking methods. Expect to see ingredients you might need an explainer on, like banana ketchup, humba glaze, and bagoong - staff, predominantly Filipino when we visited, will enthusiastically explain what they all are.

The first section of the menu, "Pulutan", are snacks served with drinks in the Philippines, so get your order in for those and something to sip as soon as you sit - it'll make those tough menu decisions slightly easier. The 'Inihaw na Manok' (€4 each) are synonymous with Bahay at this stage, chicken thigh skewers barbecued on a custom Smokin' Soul grill, in a rich, tangy banana ketchup. A perfect cocktail accompaniment, although the lack of provenance/free range indication with chicken always gives us the ick.

Okoy are deep-fried fritters usually made with shrimp, but these ones made from shredded leeks (€6) are of the "once you pop you can't stop" variety. Dipping crunchy handfuls into an aggressively vinegary sawsawan dipping sauce, we were brought back to the mouth-burning days of Mini Chips, when you just can't stop reaching for more.

If ceviche/aguachile is on your death row dinner menu, don't miss the Kinilaw, meaning 'eaten raw' (€16). Chunks of Goatsbridge trout which have been cured in vinegar, come in a rich, vivid coconut and jalapeño sauce, with slivers of pickled red onion, citrusy Calamansi vinegar and shards of lumpia crackers (similar to spring roll skins), with more on the side for piling it on top of. We can't imagine any of these plates going back to the kitchen without being completely wiped clean.

'Sinigang' is a savoury Filipino soup or stew with sour tamarind as a core ingredient, so we were unsure what the connection was to the 'Sinigang' here (other than tamarind). Meaty, juicy, tempura oyster mushrooms (€12.50) come doused in tangy tamarind salt, with whipped tofu underneath for dipping. It's a nice dish, but a few bites was enough before we lost interest, and that price felt high for the portion size.

'Sisig' is a popular bar food in the Philippines - crispy pork parts fried with onions, garlic, chillies, soy, calamansi and more. This one (€17.50) has crispy pig's ear and pork jowl mixed through with spices and onions, while the egg yolk on top waits to be pierced and smeared through the lot. Delicious? Yes. Good for your arteries? Definitely not. Share to minimise the impact.

We had the creamy, peanut sauce based kare kare (€25.50) with tofu on our last visit, and thought it was lacking in flavour. It's back here with oxtail instead, and the missing ingredient on the side - bagoong. The spicy, pungent, fermented fish condiment gives the mild nutty sauce the flavour kick it needs, and it's also great smeared on top of Castillo's essential garlic fried rice (€4.50). We love seeing under used cuts of meat like this too, which offer much better value for money.

Adobo is probably the most well-known Filipino dish, but you're more likely to have come across it as chicken or pork, braised in vinegar, soy, peppercorns, garlic and bay leaves. Kaldero's squid adobo (with squid ink - €18) is a more elegant creation, with rich seafood flavour from the softest squid swimming in peppercorns, and more of that tang that's a thread amongst all of the food here. It's a must order for seafood fans.

Our server talked us into ordering the stir-fried greens with garlic and soy (€6.50). It's a dish Castillo's father has always cooked him, and now he's brought the recipe here - if you needed a heartstring tug, this is it. It's just stir-fried cabbage, but there's a simple magic woven here - it's the kind of recipe we all need in our lives.

For dessert don't even think about skipping past the leche flan (€8) with Mungo Murphy's seaweed salt, a burnished, silky, perfectly formed triangle of set caramel custard, only improved by the salty sprinkling on top. It's Castillo's granny's recipe, and granny could take on Uno Mas in the flan wars.

Another of ube (purple yam) soft serve (€7) with Irish strawberries and elderflower vinegar was light and refreshing but too light on the vinegar - we could barely taste it and it all needed an acidic lift.

What about drinks?

The cocktail menu has taken a leap forward since our last visit too, with a light firmly shone on Filipino ingredients (there's been even more new additions since). We loved a spicy pineapple margarita with calamansi, a 'Mangga't Alat' with mango, rum and fish sauce, and a calamansi paloma with a burnt grapefruit wedge. A 'white Filipino' with vodka, Kahlua, coconut cream, condensed milk and pandan leaf should only be undertaken in place of dessert.

How was the service?

Almost everyone who served us was Filipino, and could give personal viewpoints on the dishes they were bringing and how they're served in the Philippines and in their own family homes. This would be a difficult thing to bank on, but it really added to the experience. They couldn't have been more pleasant and helpful, but did keep interrupting conversations to ask if everything was okay, which will undoubtedly irritate some people. Well-trained servers watch for moments of discomfort or diners in need before sweeping in.

How much did you spend?

€100 a head for far too much food (we brought some home) and two cocktails a piece, but if you're also on the cocktails you probably won't spend much less. Be aware also that as of publishing, the prices we paid were substantially higher than those on the menu on their website, with several dishes jumping by €2-3, and the sisig jumping from €12.50 to a whopping €17.

What's the verdict on Kaldero #2?

Finally the restaurant group known for middling food have made a smart kitchen move, and the talented Bahay team have somewhere to build on their fanatical following. Kaldero has gone from muddled melting pot to Filipino food headquarters, the only place in the city that you can eat food from this part of the world, at this standard of cooking, and that's exciting.