If there was ever a poster-child for gentrification in Dublin it's Stoneybatter. The working class neighbourhood has transformed into one of the most sought after property locations in the city, and
the number of great places to eat and drink has exploded in the past few years.
The Guardian recently called it “a taste of little Williamsburg by the Liffey”, and while very close to the city centre, it has a neighbourly and community driven feel that's hard to find, most recently illustrated by the brilliant Stoneybatter Festival. It’s a great place to stroll around on the weekend, with a glut of food and drink spots to visit, and if it's somewhere that's alien to you (most likely because of Dublin's woeful transport links), we think it's time you got to know it a bit better.
You could visit Stoneybatter any day of the week but we'd strongly advise you to go on a Saturday morning to catch the market in Penders Yard, and the main attraction - Scéal Bakery. After a stint training in some of the best bakeries in San Francisco, Shane Palmer and Charlotte Kane, two DIT Culinary Arts graduates, are making some of the best sourdough and pastries in Ireland right now. We recommend anything they’re selling but particularly the almond croissants and morning buns, which are like cinnamon buns on a whole new level. We've also heard good things about Gaby Empanadas.
After stocking up on bread and pastries, grab a coffee in Love Supreme on Manor St, a staple in Dublin’s coffee culture, where they use Koppi coffee from Sweden. If you happen to miss the market, grab a sausage roll or pastry in here from their mini-bakery.
Stroll into Lilliput Stores on Rosemount Terrace for a browse around the greengrocer, deli and coffee shop. Most of their artisan products are sourced locally. They stock their own range of oils and vinegars, as well as pestos, salads and olives. They serve sandwiches, soups and stews all day, using seasonal produce. Bordering Stoneybatter is the Phoenix Park - a prefect place to take a picnic from Lilliput.
Continue down the street to Cotto, where you can get their weekend brunch from 11am - 3pm, or come back later for dinner to try their Neapolitan-style pizzas, including the Elliot with fennel sausage, baby kale, ricotta and chilli oil. It was opened in 2015 by chef-owner Conor Higgins, who also owns Oxmantown, and frequently appears on "best pizza in Dublin" lists.
Head for a meal in L. Mulligan Grocer, one of the best gastropubs in Dublin, with an incredible selection of beers to choose from. There's a big emphasis on local Irish produce, with dishes like raw Irish cheese bon bons and salad from their allotment, and wild boar chops from Cork, and they offer a beer pairing for every dish.
If you want something quicker, go to the beer garden in The Belfry for Vurgerface, the pop-up vegan burger stall that's had vegans and non-vegans making pilgrimages to Stoneybatter over the past few weeks. They were supposed to finish up there last week but it's gone so well that it looks like they'll be a semi-regular fixture. Check out their social media for updates.
Another fast, purse-friendly option is Vietnom in the beer garden of The Glimmerman pub, which serves predominantly vegetarian Vietnamese food with some Mexican influences, and which Catherine Cleary in The Times called "some of the best street food in Dublin". The Glimmerman is worth a trip alone to see its mental interior, including a bed hanging from the ceiling with Margaret Thatcher and Charlie Haughey in it. You could happily while away a few pints taking in the eclectic decor.
If you like your drinks without a side of half-naked politicians, head to Walsh's, which was named "Best Pub in Ireland" at this year's