The Two Minute Review: The Coach House, Roundwood

Why is a Dublin restaurant guide talking about a pub and restaurant in Wicklow?

Because GLENDALOUGH. We all talk about doing it, suggest doing it, mean to do it more regularly, but without a food-based carrot at the end of an activity stick we struggle to commit to just about anything. Well consider this a carrot of titanic proportions, and the best excuse for an 8km hike since you trekked from the Electric Picnic carpark to the campsite.

What are the essential must-knows?

Remember when Avoca was a charming, Irish-owned indie business, before American behemoth Aramark took over? This is family member (and original Avoca food protagonist) Simon Pratt's second bite of the feelgood food cherry, along with café and food shop Roundwood Stores next door. It's been added to the Michelin Guide, was named one of the top 100 restaurants in Ireland by the McKenna's the first year it opened, and called "a truly charming place to eat" by Irish Times food critic Corinna Hardgrave.

So what's the food like?

Like the kind of pub menu we could only dream of in our most weary Sunday fantasies. Lambay crab on sourdough toast; chicken schnitzel Caesar salad; Wagyu cheeseburgers - Toto, I've a feeling we're not in Kansas anymore. A moment too for the €14 kids menu that comes with locally grown and pressed apple juice and two scoops of ice-cream. Fresh fish? Free-range chicken? For kids? What madness is this...

For adults (or kids with adult palates), both the chicken liver pate with brioche and Lambay crab were sping-tinglingly good, each like the kind of Christmas starter Mrs Claus might magic up if you were ever lucky enough to get an invite round for the big feast.

We only had to hear "Higgins braised beef brisket pie" once. Throw in a "there's only a couple left" and we went full on commando mode, ensuring the order was secure before the rest of the table had reached the bottom of the menu. Honestly? It was nice, a bit lacking in meat, and we haven't thought of it since (€29.50). Wicklow Wolf IPA cod and chips (€29.95) on the other hand we'd go back for in a heartbeat.

See also chicken schnitzel Caesar salad. Everything you love about a perfectly dressed Caesar, with crispy, flattened, juicy chicken on top. Don't ever pass up heirloom tomato salad in summer in a place like this either, especially when it's delivered on a bed of ricotta and basil.

What else should we know?

It'll be no surprise to fans of Avoca of yore that dessert SLAPS, like our chocolate tart with vanilla cream and blueberries. Drinks SLAP for a pub too, with properly interesting beer and wines (we loved our German Pinot Noir from Geil and Wicklow beers but there was loads we could have ordered). Everyone bar the designated driver will be thrilled.

Why should we go?

Because a wholesome hike around some lakes followed by some wholesome food and drinks by people who actually care about what they're serving is sadly rare in these fast paced times. Do yourself a solid and plan this beautiful day out soon.

The Coach House

Roundwood, Co. Wicklow, A98 P635

thecoachhouse.ie/dining