Where to go for Italian food in Dublin any Nonna would be proud of

Pity the poor Italians. Whether it’s down to economies of scale or speed of service, the pizzas and pastas that form the foundation of cucina Italiana have been mangled beyond recognition in cheap joints across the world. Dublin is no different, and in more than one recent outing we’ve been reminded of just how easily the ethos of quality ingredients cooked with simplicity and skill gets strayed from. Know where to look though and you’ll find a feast of top-tier classics, regional specialties and rarely sighted dishes, just ready to offer you la dolce vita...

Grano, Stoneybatter

Dragging Dublin’s Italian scene into the social media age back in 2018 came Grano, and its deserved popularity has barely waned since – there’s not a single table at all available right through the end of the year. Calabrian owner Roberto Mungo’s mamma flew in to teach the team how to whip up proper pasta and returns on the regular to check they’re still up to snuff. This is the real deal.

A Fianco, Stoneybatter

Grano’s grown-up sister site with small plates and an excellent Italian wine list is easier to get into, with off-peak walk-ins not unheard of. Polpette, and scalanduja are among the few dishes they share but there’s usually no pasta in sight at A Fianco – vitello tonnato, stuffed pork neck bombettes, and grilled octopus are more the different, delicious vibe.

Lena, Portobello

One of this year’s most keenly-awaited openings came from the restaurateur trio behind Uno Mas, and their collective skills and experience are on full display here. Taking over from much-loved Locks (another owned by one of the three), Lena revamped the prime space and menu, with both Insta-omnipresent suppli al telefono and cacio e pepe pici becoming instant hits. It’s as buzzy as ever but midweek tables have started to get easier to come by. Read our once over here.

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