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Couple Valentin and Mihaela Ivancenco are very fond of fermentation. Growing up in Romania fermented foods were part of daily life, and they spent years seeking them out on travels through Asia and Europe. Being out of work during the pandemic, chef Val had a chance to start experimenting, and was soon selling his krauts and hot sauces to cafés and restaurants. The Fairmental food brand was born, and the couple opened their first café near Grand Canal Dock in 2023. The simple menu consists of rice bowls, broths, wraps and toasties, and you're guaranteed to feel super-charged after a visit. Fairmental Website fairmental.ie Address Fairmental, 10 Grand Canal Street Upper, Dublin 4 Good For Tag 1 Cuisine Tag 1 Once Over Read our Review >> The Story Couple Valentin and Mihaela Ivancenco are very fond of fermentation. Growing up in Romania fermented foods were part of daily life, and they spent years seeking them out on travels through Asia and Europe. Being out of work during the pandemic, chef Val had a chance to start experimenting, and was soon selling his krauts and hot sauces to cafés and restaurants. The Fairmental food brand was born, and the couple opened their first café near Grand Canal Dock in 2023. The simple menu consists of rice bowls, broths, wraps and toasties, and you're guaranteed to feel super-charged after a visit. Where It's At Nearby Locales Mongoose Chongqing Hot Pot Boco Clontarf Bell Pesto Bang Gloria Osteria Cantina Valentina D'Lepak Pera Borgo Amai by Viktor Kaizen Chubbys Badam Table 45 Comet Daruma Malahide Lena The Pig's Ear Notions @ Two Pups The Rooftop @ Anantara The Marker Sofra Little Geno's Mama Shee Nutbutter Smithfield

Chinese roast meats café filling the gap of now closed Duck on Fade Street and CN Duck in Ranelagh. The narrow room in one of the iLac Shopping Centre's units on Moore Street seats 16, and it's walk-ins only. The meats are the star here, with roast duck, char siu, crispy roast pork and soy chicken available for collection and delivery also. Don't skip the homemade pork dumplings either. Taste of Hong Kong Website tasteofhk.ie Address Taste of Hong Kong, Moore Street, North City, Dublin 1, Ireland Good For Tag 1 Cuisine Tag 1 Once Over Read our Review >> The Story Chinese roast meats café filling the gap of now closed Duck on Fade Street and CN Duck in Ranelagh. The narrow room in one of the iLac Shopping Centre's units on Moore Street seats 16, and it's walk-ins only. The meats are the star here, with roast duck, char siu, crispy roast pork and soy chicken available for collection and delivery also. Don't skip the homemade pork dumplings either. Where It's At Nearby Locales Mongoose Chongqing Hot Pot Boco Clontarf Bell Pesto Bang Gloria Osteria Cantina Valentina D'Lepak Pera Borgo Amai by Viktor Kaizen Chubbys Badam Table 45 Comet Daruma Malahide Lena The Pig's Ear Notions @ Two Pups The Rooftop @ Anantara The Marker Sofra Little Geno's Mama Shee Nutbutter Smithfield

Parrilla The Mexican wave reaches Ranelagh, with buzzy crowds sipping top-quality cocktails Posted: 1 Oct 2024 Neighbourhood Neighborhood Name Address Restaurant Address Website Website Name Restaurant Info View the Listing >> Written by: Ronan Doyle What should we know about Parrilla? When does a trickle become a trend? It seems long past time to declare Mexican cuisine the new flavour of the month in Dublin, as Parrilla sees the wave wash up in Ranelagh. Jules Mak – of the much-loved Chinese up the road – had the idea in mind long before Tacos Lupillo , Pickosito and Chilangos arrived on the scene, and the Friday night crowds we waded through en route to our table would suggest this market is nowhere near saturated. The name comes from the charcoal grill cooking style popular across Latin America. Mak has staffed his with a primarily Mexican crew, including several new arrivals to Ireland, and brought many of his namesake restaurant’s management staff across to avoid the opening hurdles – speedy service and prompt but unpushy turnover times make that seem like a smart move. Where should we sit? The bright, spacious and well-appointed room is built around a long central bar, with booths for groups of four to six adjoining it, and two and four-top tables along the walls ready to be pushed and pulled to accommodate whoever walks in the door – they’ll take online reservations for up to six only. None of the seats have much of a good look into the kitchen pass at the back, nor is there much in the way of intimate nooks and crannies - it’s less date night vibes than gabbling groups you’re in for here. What’s on the menu? Ten “bites” of various sizes, five tacos, four grilled mains and four sides – plenty, in a word. 777 is a closer comparison than any of those other recent arrivals, with a similar grill focus and fewer fast-casual favourites like quesadillas in sight. Chips and guac is an obvious bar-setting entry point and a generally solid start - Parrilla aren’t making their own masa on-site but they’re getting the good stuff, and these are a strong showcase of where that makes all the difference. We won’t be petitioning for a retail range of the house salsas anytime soon though, we've had more standout versions. They keep the hanger at bay, but the portion sizing also needs a rethink – that’s either too much dip or not enough chip, we know which side we land on. It's in a dish like crab tostada that the rubber really meets the road, and we sensed no skidding on this plate with perfect balance. Shallots support the delicate sweetness of the meat, while the well-calibrated tang of chipotle mayo and salsa verde cut through rich avocado chunks. The crisp fried corn tortilla is just-right in how it breaks into bites rather than a shattered sprawl – far harder than it looks. We loved them all the more in retrospect as we masticated our way through the squid - a rubbery dud of a dish. There was no trace of the menu-touted coal-cooking in sight or taste, the neat kick of nduja and a tajin-spiked batter wasted on overcooked rings that never should have made it onto the floor. With well-cooked calamari we can imagine this singing the crab’s same hymn of poise and balance, instead of a one-note wail that couldn’t have ended soon enough. Who could have guessed something as simple as pineapple would save the day – not all heroes wear capes, some just bring a salty-sour-sweet symphony to cleanse your memory as well as your palate. We’d expect a lot of diners’ eyes to gloss over "Pina Caramelizada" (it reads more as a taco topping than a plate) but don't be among the deniers. Eyes will flare wide open at the intensity of flavour here, mouth-puckeringly pickled onions and tongue-twitching tajin playing off the sharp sweet flood of pineapple juice gushing forth from caramelised edges. There are Dublin prices, and then there are Ranelagh prices, and then there are Ranelagh prices in 2024. It is not Parrilla’s fault that the world is where it is and that the balancing act of marking margins stack up in that context is a near-impossible feat, but we winced at the thought of two tacos for €10-€14, a notable step-up in price-per-piece terms than anywhere else outside the canals and plenty within them – 777 is all we can think of that can beat it, and Taco Tuesday is the night to go there when it's two tacos for €8. In the case of the fish (€13 for two) we can almost allow it, chubby fingers of battered cod so generously shrouded in salsa and guac they’re almost a challenge to pick up. For the steak (€14) it’s a far harder sell, with the grill again failing to stand out in these chunks of under-rendered beef, barely basted by a dollop of avocado-courgette cream. Parrilla potatoes play like a Mexican twist on bravas, with tajin-sprinkled halves of baby spuds ready to receive the garlic aioli and chipotle salsa alongside. They were a touch less crispy than we would have liked, but the floury insides lend themselves well to the duo of sauces, which were good alone but better together. Dessert seems to change daily if early accounts are anything to go by, and our chocolate orange tart was a bit of a box-ticker, with fine flavours but texture wide of the mark. The sand-dry crust worked as nothing but vessel, while the chocolate filling needed far more cream - its thick-set consistency took such pressure to cut through it went flying off the plate. We wished we'd stuck with a digestif. What about the drinks? They're a big part of the appeal here. Parrilla has shacked up with Casamigos, the award-winning tequila brand that Diageo bought off George Clooney and friends back in 2017, for a margarita menu that should make this a popular spot for more well-heeled pre-drinks – the Friday night crowd all looked intent on heading out after. We were most excited for the verdita margarita but they’d run out of the namesake mixer – a spiced and herbed pineapple juice. We settled on a server-recommended Spicy Fox instead, with Tequila, spicy Aperol, passion fruit, pineapple, orgeat, cherry and lemon. This is one aspect that Parrilla gets pitch-perfect. With the michelada we’d had at our recent Chilangos visit still living rent free in our heads, we couldn’t resist another one here – you know, for research purposes. We’re sorry to say it was a wet whimper to the other’s big bang, and a price point (€10, where the Sol alone is €5.70) that added insult to injury. How was the service? This is a slick operation, with the Mak team’s involvement clear to see in the way the bustling room is tightly managed – keeping that many plates spinning is no mean feat for a new arrival. We’d worried showing up to the very last seating on a Friday night (good time slots at less than two weeks’ notice are few and far between right now) might have the staff hating us, but they couldn’t have been nicer. The kitchen crew is just as well-oiled, with food before us in remarkably quick order. If you want food fast, but not fast food, you’ll find it here. And the damage? Everything here plus two cokes took us to €120. We reckon you’d want to budget a minimum €40 a head just for food if this is dinner for the night, more if you feel like venturing into the mains. Our top tip for thrift is a cocktail, the pineapple plate, and tostadas to share – that’s the makings of a very good catchup for €30 each. What’s the verdict on Parrilla? It’s clear from the thought-through cocktail menu and the more inspired dishes that Parrilla is closer to the labour of love it’s proclaimed itself than the high-turnover business opportunity it might have been in more cynical hands, but there’s a few kinks that could do with ironing out for it to reach its full potential, especially in the crowded and quality Mexican wave we’ve happily found ourselves riding of late. Against some of their competition out in the suburbs, Parrilla has a central location, well-crafted drinks and an undeniably buzzy atmosphere to boast about, but it's less destination dining for now, more a good compromise candidate for groups looking to start a night off on the right foot. Hopefully with time and menu tweaks the only way is up. New Openings & Discoveries More >>

Vibrant, joy-inducing Middle Eastern food, whose flavours far surpass the very cheap prices. Shouk brought something to Drumcondra that it was desperately missing, and it's been packed every day since. The outdoor terrace at the back (covered in winter) is the place to be on a sunny day, and don't miss the arayes and the mezze. There's a wine list but you can also BYO. Shouk Website shouk.ie Address 40 Drumcondra Road Lower, Drumcondra, Dublin 9 Good For Tag 1 Cuisine Tag 1 Once Over Read our Review >> The Story Vibrant, joy-inducing Middle Eastern food, whose flavours far surpass the very cheap prices. Shouk brought something to Drumcondra that it was desperately missing, and it's been packed every day since. The outdoor terrace at the back (covered in winter) is the place to be on a sunny day, and don't miss the arayes and the mezze. There's a wine list but you can also BYO. Where It's At Nearby Locales Mongoose Chongqing Hot Pot Boco Clontarf Bell Pesto Bang Gloria Osteria Cantina Valentina D'Lepak Pera Borgo Amai by Viktor Kaizen Chubbys Badam Table 45 Comet Daruma Malahide Lena The Pig's Ear Notions @ Two Pups The Rooftop @ Anantara The Marker Sofra Little Geno's Mama Shee Nutbutter Smithfield

Dosa Dosa So good you need to say it twice Posted: 5 Apr 2022 Neighbourhood Neighborhood Name Address Restaurant Address Website Website Name Restaurant Info View the Listing >> Written by: Lisa Cope What’s the story? We love Dosa Dosa 's back story. Owner Karthik Thiru was born in Tamil Nadu in Southern India, but came to Ireland after finishing school to study at the University of Limerick. In Southern India, dosas (similar to a flat pancake made from fermented rice and lentil batter) are an everyday food, equivalent to a sandwich, so he couldn't understand why they weren't readily available here, especially considering how much Indian food (of varying quality) we have access to. He ended up working in the tech sector, but his obsession with bringing the food of his home to Ireland continued to grow, until eventually he decided to buy a second-hand food truck, customise it, and Dosa Dosa was born. The wheels were put in motion in February 2020, with the truck popping up in various locations in West Dublin, and just weeks later the country went into shutdown, but if ever there was a pandemic-proof business, it's a food truck. The lived a nomadic lifestyle over the next year, travelling around Dublin and Wicklow feeding the hungry and dosa-starved, but in February last year they found their first home, in a pretty random parking lot off Grand Canal Street. The location did nothing to dissuade old and new customers, and pretty soon plenty were breaking the 5k rule to get their hands on gunpowder masala dosa, paneer parotta and a side of Masala tea. Late last year, the food truck morphed into a shipping container, with other food vendors joining them in the car park, so the Dosa Dosa truck was free and in search of a new home. After some searching they found it down a laneway at the side of Hyne's Bar in Stoneybatter (is there anything the D7 suburb doesn't have?), and earlier this month Dosa Dosa 2.0 opened for business. Never one to look a northside parotta in the face, we went off to do a Dosa deep dive. Where should we sit? There's a really nice beer garden out the back here that we foresee being rammed when the weather gets warmer (or if covid stays with us for the remainder of 2022), and half of it is covered which is handy, being in Ireland and all. While the outside of Hyne's Bar is in bad need of a refresh and a paint job, the inside is a delight for the eyes. It's so very Stoneybatter, with its little nooks, corners, exposed brick, artwork, and lights ranging from "fairy" all the way up to "chandelier". It's the type of place you'd want to bring your friends from abroad when they come to visit, to show them a "real Irish pub", and we be very happy to cosy up in here for an afternoon sipping on pints and having the chats. There are also well behaved dogs all over the gaff so another potential plus depending on where you stand on the matter of dogs in drinking establishments. What is slightly disjointing is that to get to Dosa Dosa you have to go back out the front door, turn left and go left again down the alleyway where the van is parked. This isn't a huge deal, but it means you either have to wait there while the food is cooked, or come back in your allotted 7/10/13 minutes, taking the chance that it's been sitting there a few minutes. We'd envisioned the truck in the beer garden so you'd be able to sip your drink while they cooked your food, and call out your name or number when it's ready. There's no way around this marginally irritating situation, other than hiring someone to ferry the food back and forth into the pub, which perhaps they'll look at if things get busy. What's the food like? The dosa are clearly the big ticket item here, but you'll also find parotta, uttapam, kathi rolls, vada and specials depending on the week. If you've seen the vada, it's probably already on your order list - has anything shaped like a doughnut ever been a disappointment? The deep-fried lentil fritters are filled with spices, herbs and curry leaves, and while we're sure they won't be giving away their family recipe, you'll usually find chillies, ginger, onion and sometimes coconut in there. They're light and fluffy on the inside, crispy on the outside, and only got better when dipped in the accompanying chutneys. Bar food Southern India stye. The dosa is king, and first up we tried their best-seller - the Gunpowder masala dosa. Gunpowder is the name of the lentil and spice blend inside the perfectly thin and crisp dosa, made using dahl, chillies and curry leaves, making it all vegan, and all tear to your eye delicious. Bite it, chew it, dip it, gaze lovingly at it - you'll run the gamut. It's one of the spicier options, but we'd mark it as a medium at most. We also tried the Chettinad chicken dosa, filled with Chettinad chicken (a type of south Indian curry) and spicy tomato chutney. This food is so pure, so flavoursome, so untouched by hands wanting to appeal to the Irish market, that it will probably make you a tad emotional. A paneer kathi roll was so flaky, so buttery and so perfect we briefly wondering had we imagined it. With each bite you can hear the shards of paratha pastry crunch and crumble, giving way to the fragrant cheesy filling. This is one of the most popular street foods in India, and we feel aggrieved that they got this, while we got chicken fillet rolls. Another section of the menu is devoted to parotta - shredded flatbread fried and mixed with vegetables, curry leaves and spices, and served with raita. We tried the egg kothu parotta with onion and mixed peppers, and it was a bit of a "once you pop you can't stop" situation, with forks aggressively diving back in for more. This also had a bit of a spice kick to it, but nothing unmanageable, and the raita's there to cool things down. Everything comes with chutneys - mint and coriander; coconut; and tomato, and they make every bite taste different. The coconut in particular we would drink by the bowlful. There's no dessert on the menu here, but the bar serve Pornstar Martinis if you're in need of something sweet, and Espresso Martinis if that's more your style. What about the drinks? For a pub, Hyne's has an impressive drinks list. There's a good selection of draught and bottled beer and cider (including craft obviously), and an extensive list of cocktails (which we didn't try but would be reasonably confident about). We'd steer clear of wines though - anywhere listing just the grape is usually bad news bears. Dosa Dosa are supposed to be serving mango lassis and masala tea, but they didn't have them when we visited. And the service? There's not much service to speak of. You order at the van, get given a time to come back, go back to your seat, then head back when time is up. As mentioned earlier it's a bit disjointed and a couple of times we realised our food had been ready a few minutes before we picked it up as it wasn't as hot as it could have been. Bar staff were lovely, but it's bar service, so between the two you can do a fair bit of jumping out of your seat. These are minor issues, but something to be aware of. And the damage? €43.50 for all of that food which comfortably fed three, which for price to quality ratio has to be one of the best bargains in Dublin right now. The verdict? You could get on a plane to Tamil Nadu and not find food as delicious and pure of purpose as it is at Dosa Dosa - okay you probably would find it but now you don't have to get on a plane which is going to save you a lot of money. You know those fantasies you have about making a new friend from a far off land and being invited to their house for a meal filled with the most incredible, fascinating, original dishes you might never experience otherwise? Dosa Dosa is that friend, and for mere pennies in comparison to what most Dublin restaurants are charging these days, we'd wager you'll have some of the best food you'll try all year. Dosa Dosa @ Hynes Bar 79-80 Prussia Street, Stoneybatter, Dublin 7 www.dosadosa.ie New Openings & Discoveries More >>

Cellar 22 Homemade charcuterie and 40 wines by the glass at Dublin's newest wine bar Posted: 23 Jan 2024 Neighbourhood Neighborhood Name Address Restaurant Address Website Website Name Restaurant Info View the Listing >> Written by: Lisa Cope What's the story with Cellar 22? Since The Cliff Townhouse closed its doors mid-pandemic at the end of 2021, number 22 St Stephen's Green has sat empty, crying out for a shrewd operator to move in and level up the space into somewhere with the potential to draw in all of those five-star tourists passing the doors each day - and the rest of us if they got the offering right. Last November, it was announced that the basement space (formerly The Cliff's seafood bar Urchin) was reopening as Cellar 22 , with whispers about a more formal restaurant to follow upstairs. The new owners (who also own The Fitzwilliam Hotel and The Bailey ) were obviously intent on making this more than just a tourist trap, because they brought in Delahunt 's head chef Chris Maguire (as well as some of his colleagues) to run the kitchen. Victor Nedelea (ex- Sole ) was brought in on wine, and teaser posts dropped on social looked like they meant business. Where should we sit? It's a quirky, cosy room, with a lot of dark wood and cavernous corners to sink into. There are low tables at the front, high tables in the middle, and booths to the right, as well as a semi-private room towards the back. There's also four counter seats in the back of the restaurant facing into the kitchen, so if live-action is your thing be sure to request them. As you'd expect with a basement restaurant, snug and intimate take precedence over bright and spacious, but that's just what we're looking for in these cooler months. We imagine indoor seating in a venue like this might suffer when the sun shines, but there are seats for 8-10 out front too. What should we eat? Cellar 22 has set out its niche as having a dedicated charcuterie menu, with the even more impressive declaration that 80% of it is made in house - that's enough to get us off the couch and onto a bus. If you're a meat eater, you're probably coming here for this, but first, bread. A 'selection of breads' - sourdough, focaccia and brown - will set you back €9, and comes with smoked butter (incredible), Parmesan fondue (forgettable), and beetroot and dill (questionable - why is this here without some kind of ricotta/similarly milky salve). Breads are very good - sourdough light and chewy, brown dense and crumbly, but the focaccia was a little too dry for our liking - unleash the oil. Croquettes get a bad rap for being on every menu in every combination, but sometimes you get one that reminds you WHY they're everywhere - because they're bloody delicious. Cellar 22's shortrib ones fit the bill, with crispy shells hiding sweet, melting hunks of beef, although the chive mayo could have been a bit more assertive. We were verrrrrry excited at the prospect of a brand new beef tartare in town, but this version with too tough meat and far more mayonnaise than has any business being in a tartare was disappointing. The crispy onions would have been a lovely addition if everything else worked, but we'd pare this one right back to basics. The pomme paillasson (straw potato cake) on the other hand could (should) be a dish on its own, with the tartare actually managing to distract from it. Pile em high and send em out. Then onto the main draw, the charcuterie board, which comes in small (€16) or large (€28). In the large you get all eight options, in the small a selection chosen that day by the chef. Of course we went large (this isn't a half once over), and at first glance were slightly disappointed with the portion sizes. It took a few minutes to realise why - the board photographed for their Irish Times review was noticeably larger, with an extra piece of all three cured meats, a pâté en croûte that was double the size, and twice the amount of (delicious) deep-fried crackers. In a world where over-delivering is tantamount to a great experience, under-delivering from promo photos is an odd move. But what about the actual charcuterie. Coming out on top was the Venison rillette (cured venison leg, slowly cooked in chicken fat for an immensely deep flavour ), the Pâté en croûte (pork, foie gras and smoked lardo in the most perfect savoury short crust pastry), and the chicken liver pâté (seasoned with brandy and silky smooth). The pâté de campagne was enjoyable as a more rustic terrine but not quite as wow, the ham hock terrine was pleasant but needed a flavour oomph, and the smoked pig's head definitely won't be for everyone - slices were mostly fat, with a gelatinous texture. There were delicious cucumber pickles too, and an apple butter which felt superfluous - another pickle or cornichons would have provided some more welcome acidity to cut through all that meat. The only two that are bought in, the Salchichón Ibérico de bellota and Coppa Piacentina, are excellent quality, and perfect nibbles alongside a glass of tangy red. There's lots to like here, but some of it could be that bit more exciting. A final small plate of Southern-fried maitake mushrooms with Boyne Valley blue ranch (served in half a roasted garlic bulb) was what deep-fried vegetarian dreams are made off, and once we popped it was hard to stop, but a couple of the mushrooms were more batter than 'shroom. When fully filled with fungi they were a crunchy delight - the batter is perfection, the dip inspired. They're keeping it simple for afters with cheese, affogato or 'variations of chocolate, banana and pecan'. For the latter we were expecting something thrown together in typical wine bar "we're too busy to care about dessert" style, but not so - someone in here knows their way around a pastry section. A chocolate mousse comes encased in more chocolate, with what tasted like meringue along with banana underneath a pecan bicsuit and banana ice-cream. A perfect sweet note to end on, particularly with a glass of Port. What about drinks? When we read through the wine list online it all felt a bit classic, with plenty of big names and commercial producers - more Sole than Fish Shop . However when we got in there was an additional short list of smaller, more natural producers, which our waitress told us will change regularly. It's a smart move to keep wine loving regulars coming back to see what's new, and brings the number of wines by the glass up to an impressive 40. If you've got cash to splash (entertaining clients perhaps) you won't struggle for showy bottles, with the most expensive wine a €750 Premier Cru Bordeaux from Château Figeac in Saint-Émilion. We mostly drank off the specials list, with Albert di Conti's brilliant pet nat on for sparkling, a beautiful dry palomino from Hacienda la Parrilla for white, and Catina Rallo's Ciello Rosso falling surprisngly flat on this occasion, but the Etna Rosso from Torre Mora on the main list is exactly what you want with charcuterie - all dark fruits and zippy acidity. A fino to start from Williams & Humbert Col was a poor example, lacking in those salty, oxidative flavours that make it such a great aperitif, but a 2016 Sauternes from Château Suduiraut is worth the €15 price tag for a special sweet to end on. Try it with Boyne Valley Blue on the cheese board for the dream French/Irish pairing. How was the service? Our waitress couldn't have been nicer or more helpful, bringing the wine bottles over to the table so we could see the labels, and offering helpful recommendations with no hint of an upsell. Another young waiter who came on the floor later to cover her break was equally as attentive, and made us feel very well looked after. They seem to have hired very well, because you can't train for that kind of genuine pleasantness. What was the damage? €150 for two before tip with three glasses of wine each. You could just as easily come in at lunch for a plate of pasta and a single glass and be down €25 for a lovely hour's pitstop. What's the verdict on Cellar 22? Cellar 22 has all the ingredients to join Dublin's wine bar hit list along with Note, Bar Pez, Loose Canon, Piglet, Frank's and a few more, but we'd love to see the food kicked up a gear, and more of a focus on cutting edge wines than commercial operators. For now it's a great place to share some charcuterie, cheese and picky bits over a few glasses of wine in a very cosy setting - basically the antidote to January - but with a few tweaks these could be some of the most sought after seats in town. New Openings & Discoveries More >> The News You Might Have Missed This Week 6 days ago ATF readers' most loved supermarket products - Lidl & Aldi Jun 16 5 things we want to eat in Dublin this week Jun 16 The Two Minute Review: Morso Jun 16

Loretta's Big flavours from a Sunday night sharing menu in a former bank Posted: 18 Oct 2022 Neighbourhood Neighborhood Name Address Restaurant Address Website Website Name Restaurant Info View the Listing >> Written by: Lisa Cope What's the story? Loretta's opening at the end of 2018 with promises of bringing "US-style comfort food" to Dublin 7. Chef/Owner Jimmy Wiley is originally from Colorado but has been living here for over 20 years, and was previously in the kitchen at 777 . Big flavours and family recipes seemed to be the name of the game and they've been quietly trucking away in Phibsborough ever since, admirably surviving Covid by running weekly takeaway meals - which we tried and enjoyed. They never seem to grab the neighbourhood restaurant headlines in the same way as some of their southside contemporaries, but lately we're hearing more and more people talk about how much they love it, and their Sunday night sharing menu seemed like the perfect excuse to give Loretta's another go. Where should we sit? The restaurant is in a former bank building and the room feels dramatic and modern, with its high ceilings, dark wood, tan leather banquettes and monochrome tiles. Shut your ears and you could be sitting in NYC. The best view of the open kitchen is from the tables in the back facing the bar, while the best natural light is in the front. People who love comfortable seats will love Loretta's, with every table having the option to sit on a booth or banquette, and there are plenty of large tables, ideal for groups or families. When we were there there was one extended family of at least eight eating together, while other booths comfortably seated families with small children, giving them plenty of space for colouring books or general arm swinging - and yes they have high chairs too. What's the food like? The Sunday night sharing menu is packed with eye-popping plates you'll want to order, but while the small plates and snacks are well-priced, the mains seem very expensive. €75 for duck, €65 for roast lamb leg, €45 for chicken, without a potato or vegetable in sight (all sides are extra) and they're all said to feed two. We'd advise you to ignore this, as what we had fed three comfortably with leftovers for sandwiches the next day, so if you do your division like this, suddenly the prices seem a lot more in line with the norm (even if the norm is sky-rocketing by the day). Choosing from the small plates menu will probably be agony, so your best bet is to bring your gang and try it all. The fermented potato blinis (a puffed up, fluffy, crispy pancake) comes topped with deeply coloured and flavoured cured salmon, watercress, and unlisted horseradish cream and slivers of candy beetroot, and if there's a better blini and salmon combo in Dublin we haven't eaten it. Parmesan agnolotti with pumpkin and black walnut was another simple dish made special. The pasta clearly homemade, the filling the perfect amount of Parmesan, and the pumpkin sauce, pickled black walnuts and crispy sage coming together for a party in your mouth. Lastly, the Korean-fried chicken drumsticks, and we can't understand why more people aren't shouting about these sticky, spicy, sweet, crunchy batons of beauty. People get on airplanes to eat chicken this good, and it's been sitting under our noses in Phibsborough the whole time. The only downside is it's not free-range chicken. For mains, as we said, things may look uncomfortably expensive, but go in with the mindset that one will definitely feed three, and if you're two you can bring the leftovers home, they have containers. The decision on which one to go for started well before we left home and took approximately two and a half hours, so check the menu before you get there. We decided on the wood-fired chilli with fermented green chilli, reasoning that the €55 price tag wouldn't sting as much as some of the rest, and this was a mammoth portion of pork. Just cooked and still barely pink, with tangy fire from the green chilli rub, and sitting in its own juices, there was also some puffed up pork skin on top, and any fears of "how interesting could pork rump actually be?" were wiped out sharpish. Also wiped out were any fears of it being tough or chewy. For sides, there's no question that the "Loretta's chips" are homemade, and cooked several times. Skin on, golden and very crunchy, they arrived perfect, but did lose their appeal as they cooled, becoming more chewy. Roast York cabbage with parmesan had been charred all over, crunchy and salty from the cheese and breadcrumbs, with that York cabbage sweetness underneath it all, while charred broccoli with a smoked Gubbeen sauce and truffle is up there with the best broccoli sides we've ever eaten. Whoever came up with this needs a payrise. There were three desserts, and we skipped the Basque cheesecake fearing it wouldn't top the one we'd had recently at Elliot's across the road. Instead we had a cherry “pavlova”, with caramelised white chocolate chunks and honey sabayon, which we found too sweet and not overly interesting. Much better was a buttermilk set cream with honeycomb, blueberry and fresh fig, which was light, creamy, fresh and full of fruit, without hurting our teeth. What about the drinks? The wine list has definitely taken a step forward since the last time we were here pre-covid, and now houses some interesting bottles like Frantz Saumon's pet nat rosé, Arianna Occhipinti's SP68, and even a Pineau des Charentes by the glass, but there's plenty of more conventional stuff too (which overtakes much of the btg list). We tried the Alsation Riesling which tasted like it had been open too long, but the staff offered to change it for something else (the Verdejo which was fine). The Samurai Chardonnay was much better, and if going red it would be Judith Beck's 'Ink', no question. How was the service? Pleasant but a bit perfunctory. Our waiter was new and very accommodating, but no one asked how our food was or came to check on us at any point, which felt strange, especially as the restaurant wasn't full. If they had turned the smiles and general hospitality up a few notches it would have been close to perfect. And the damage? €145 for enough food to comfortably feed three adults (or a family of four), with pork to bring home. What's the verdict? We were hoping Loretta's would be good, we weren't expecting it to be this impressive, this confident, this finessed - every plate came as a welcome shock and a slap of flavours to the face. Forget your Sunday roast, get thee and your people to Loretta's for sharing plates, and the best antidote we can imagine right now to the Sunday fear. Loretta's 162-165 Phibsborough Road, Dublin 7 www.lorettas.ie New Openings & Discoveries More >>

A ‘pub with a restaurant’ in the Liberties from the same owners as The Pig’s Ear – chef Stephen McAllister and wife Andrea Hussey. Beef cheek and oxtail Parker House rolls, Iberico pork schnitzel, and a huge cock-a-leekie pie for two make the food at Spitalfields a cut above the average gastropub. Spitalfields Website spitalfields.ie Address 25 The Coombe, Dublin 8 Good For Tag 1 Cuisine Tag 1 Once Over Read our Review >> The Story A ‘pub with a restaurant’ in the Liberties from the same owners as The Pig’s Ear – chef Stephen McAllister and wife Andrea Hussey. Beef cheek and oxtail Parker House rolls, Iberico pork schnitzel, and a huge cock-a-leekie pie for two make the food at Spitalfields a cut above the average gastropub. Where It's At Nearby Locales Mongoose Chongqing Hot Pot Boco Clontarf Bell Pesto Bang Gloria Osteria Cantina Valentina D'Lepak Pera Borgo Amai by Viktor Kaizen Chubbys Badam Table 45 Comet Daruma Malahide Lena The Pig's Ear Notions @ Two Pups The Rooftop @ Anantara The Marker Sofra Little Geno's Mama Shee Nutbutter Smithfield

Chapter One by Mickael Viljanen You deserve this €65 lunch Posted: 28 Sept 2021 Neighbourhood Neighborhood Name Address Restaurant Address Website Website Name Restaurant Info View the Listing >> Written by: Lisa Cope What’s the story? Mickael Viljanen is one of only four chefs in Ireland (ever) to be awarded two Michelin stars, in 2019 when he was head chef at The Greenhouse on Dawson Street (now closed, with the building apparently in the hands of a large hospitality group). It felt like a very long road to get there (but if it was easy to get it wouldn't mean as much), with critics and food writers declaring the food to be at that level long before Michelin made it official, and protesting that if The Greenhouse was in London or Paris it would have been elevated earlier. At the ceremony in London, Viljanen almost collapsed with relief, years of tension and back-breaking work flooding out of his body as he flung his arms around chef Raymond Blanc, lifting him into the air, before they both fell over mid-jubilation. The entire room was immersed in the joy unfolding on stage, and everyone holding an Irish passport felt their heart swell and their cheeks burst from smiling. His achievement felt like our achievement, our little island moving up the global culinary ranks. The Greenhouse was badly affected by the pandemic. They had no outdoor seating, and this level of food does not lend itself to finish at home meal kits. So there was nothing to do but lay everyone off, and hope they would hang around and wait for indoor dining to be allowed again, but they didn't. In May of this year, news erupted that Viljanen had resigned from The Greenhouse and was taking over the kitchen at one-Michelin starred Chapter One as Chef-Patron, forming a partnership with Ross Lewis, who was hanging up his apron (he's since put it back on to cook at Osteria Lucio, his other restaurant near Grand Canal Dock). The majority of the kitchen team came with him, leaving The Greenhouse defunct. Some thought this was a genius by the Finnish chef, reasoning that one star plus two stars equals three (not quite sure Michelin maths works like that but we'll see). Some wondered why the chef hadn't just gone it alone with his own, brand new vision. Almost everyone cheered the fact that he would finally have the dining room his food deserved (The Greenhouse's split a lot of people), and absolutely everyone was thrilled at the thought of what was to come. In August, Chapter One by Mickael Viljanen welcomed its first guests, and a month in we gave their €65, three-course lunch menu a once over. Where should we sit? The main dining areas feel lighter and more spacious than they did at the old Chapter One, and our favourite tables are by the window (both for light and for ventilation in covid-times). Tables are well spaced, so private conversations shouldn't be an issue, and there are cosy booths if you prefer a velvet couch to a velvet chair (both equally lovely places for your derrière). There are also seats at the chef's table which seats groups of four - six (€150 for the tasting menu and the dream meal as far as we're concerned) as well as a private dining room for up 10, and another private dining area for six. What's the food like? We were here to try the €65 lunch menu, which sounded too good to be true from a value perspective, particularly compared to some other menu prices around town where the food isn't in the same universe as this. You can do a tasting menu at lunch for €120 but last orders are at 13:30, so you'd want to be sitting down by 13:15. The set lunch is a three-course menu with snacks, bread and petit fours, and one choice for each course, so the ideal way to do it is with a friend/partner/family member who doesn't mind swapping plates half way through. Then the only decisions you'll have to make will involve what you're going to drink. There is a suggested wine pairing for each dish (when we were there prices varied from around €8 - €25), but they're happy to recommend others too. First out are the snacks. These change frequently but expect a miniature tart of some type containing Flaggy Shore oysters or Irish Angus bavette, maybe a bite of comté with truffle, and hopefully you'll get to try what's bound to become a restaurant signature - chilled borscht with smetana (like sour cream) and caviar. It's in a cocoa butter shell so it melts and pops in your mouth, releasing the borscht in one of the most magical mouthfuls of your meal. Then comes bread. Fresh, crunchy, chewy sourdough, with rich, yellow, perfectly salted butter. The dishes seem to change every day, so you may or may not have any of these as options when you visit, but there wasn't one dish that was even a mild disappointment, so just go with it. We had a steamed comté mousseline with Vin Jaune and truffle (paired with Lustau's amontillado sherry), and this is another dish we can see becoming a signature (and regaining the chef those two stars). It came with a side of perfectly dressed leaves, and while they seemed superfluous, it was salad to savour. Our other starter was Wicklow sika deer tartare (the chef loves game, and many think Autumn is the best season to eat his food), with smoked pike roe, horseradish and watercress. This also appeared at The Greenhouse, and is the kind of dish you want to nibble very slowly, possibly shedding a tear when the last forkful is gone, leaving you in no doubt as to why the Michelin guide think Viljanen's food is "worth a detour". It's worth a detour from France. Onto mains and expect more potentially tear-inducing dishes to arrive, like our wild sea-bream with fennel sitting in the most outrageously complex bouillabaisse sauce, with a side of lobster saffron rice that deserves its own restaurant. Just bowls of this. We will literally pay any money to make this happen. This is one of those taste memories you'll have for years after eating it, and if it's not on the menu when you visit we sincerely apologise for telling you about it. The other main on the day we visited was a Viljanen classic - Anjou pigeon 'en crépinette', with confit cèpe and date vinegar sauce. The description alone probably has you smacking your lips together, and it was even better than you're imagining. The meat wasn't gamey or strongly flavoured, it was delicate and subtle, with the cèpes, date vinegar and baby pickled onions ticking every box on the flavour wheel - savoury, salty, sharp, sweet, with no one taste over-powering the others. We went for broke with the wine pairing of 2011 Chateau Tayac Margaux at €25 a glass, and as pairings goes this one is a 10/10 (even if Bordeaux isn't usually your bag). Ever wondered why your mash isn't as good as the ones in certain high end (usually French) restaurants? It's because you wouldn't dare to put that much butter in it at home. Continue to live the lie that they just have a better technique for boiling potatoes than you do while you spoon the last scraping of this from the side of its silver bowl. For dessert expect another Viljanen signature - the part art, part dessert, swirl of deliciousness. Ours was Tuscan-made Amedei chocolate with white miso and honey vinegar, and a salted milk sorbet on the side. Does chocolate get any better than when it's laced with umami miso and a flicker of sweet vinegar? We've yet to be convinced. Our other dessert was more of a Chapter One classic, the soufflé, this one a Piedmonte hazelnut version with hazelnut sauce and citrus sorbet. The theatre of this is when they bring it to the table, cut into it and pour in the sauce - get those cameras ready millennials. It's perfect, like everything else. You'll finish with beautiful petit fours - our included brioche Tropezienne (brioche filled with orange cream) and clementine pâte de fruit with batak pepper and lemon thyme, and if you don't order an Irish coffee at this point from the famed Chapter One trolley we can't be friends. What about the drinks? The wine list at Chapter One has always been more classic than trend-chasing, and this still feels like Chapter One's wine list. You won't find much of the New California, Georgian skin contact numbers, or Pet Nats around these parts, and it's more Grand Marques than grower Champagne (although there are a few), but you will find several pages of Burgundy and Bordeaux, and some of the world's best producers among them. The wine pairings for lunch were well thought out and worked nicely with the dishes, but with a few exceptions we generally felt the food outshone the wine. And the service? The service is still very much Chapter One too, which will come as a sigh of relief to anyone who's experienced it. From the minute you walk in it's smile after compliment after joke, and you're immediately put at ease despite the starched tablecloths and somewhat hushed tones. It's not often you'll find food at this level of dining with such friendly, informal service, and it feels like a very Irish way to do a two-starred Michelin experience, one that we should be proud to see international visitors experience. And the damage? If you do the three course lunch with all three wine pairings you're looking at around €100 a head (depending on what's on that day). Add on an Irish coffee and service and you'll be more like €120, but in our book it's worth every cent, and you can always get a bottle if you want to bring the cost down. The verdict? We don't use this word often but this food is "thrilling". Thrilling because of the art-like beauty of the dishes, thrilling because they taste even better than they look every single time, thrilling because you know you're experiencing some of the most exciting cooking on the island, a chef and kitchen team pushing to be the best, that will be part of Ireland's culinary history in years to come. We're going to have to wait another few months (date TBC) to see whether Michelin give Viljanen back his stars, elevating Chapter One from it's current one to two, but we really can't see a situation where this doesn't happen. Blending two different restaurants together must have its challenges. Two kitchen teams, sommeliers, service staff, owners, all with their own ideas about how to do things, all bound to clash at times over the right way. If this is the case you wouldn't know it from our meal, which was practically flawless, but we can imagine over time you might see subtle changes as two become one. The €65 lunch at Chapter One is one of the best ways to spend your money in Dublin right now, and you don't just need to experience it, you deserve to experience it. It's been a shocking 18 months for a lot of people, the restaurant industry in particular, but if anything will give you hope for what's to come for "Irish Food" and put goosebumps on the back of your arms, this is it. Chapter One By Mickael Viljanen 18-19 Parnell Square, Dublin 1 chapteronerestaurant.com New Openings & Discoveries More >>

D'Olier Street A New York-style addition to Dublin's elite dining crew Posted: 24 Jan 2023 Neighbourhood Neighborhood Name Address Restaurant Address Website Website Name Restaurant Info View the Listing >> Written by: Lisa Cope What's the story with D'Olier Street? It's a partnership between Mr Fox owner/chef Anthony Smith, and couple Jane Frye and James Moore, who were based in New York up until a year ago. Smith and Moore are old chef buddies, having cooked together in One Pico 16 years ago, before Moore (who's Australian) moved to NYC. Smith then followed, and the two lived together, meeting Frye (who's American) in the interim. Smith returned home to Dublin to open Mr Fox in 2016. You caught up? When Moore, who was head chef at two Michelin-starred Atera in New York at the time, told Smith he wanted to open his own restaurant, he somehow managed to convinced him to do it in Dublin, and New York's loss is most definitely our gain. Frye and Moore are married, and while Frye's background was in food media and not service, she's spent the last year learning the ropes at Mr Fox, while the couple's first restaurant together took shape. In October they announced a star signing in pastry chef Mina Pizarro , who's worked at some of the best restaurants in New York, including Le Cirque, Per Se and Veritas. If people weren't paying attention before, that made them sit up straight. D'Olier Street opened at the start of December, and we could barely restrain ourselves from running in, but thought we'd let them get over silly season before seeing what they're all about. Where should we sit? This room has been home to mediocre bistros and busily-decorated tourist traps over the years, but it's never been allowed to shine like this. The high ceilings, modern design and muted colours feel more than a little New York, and everything about it feels grand and special occasion worthy, in the most of the moment way. The seats most in demand will be the eight around the chefs counter, but it's actually at table level. This may be a negative as you don't get quite the bird's eye view into the kitchen that you can higher up, or a positive as your legs aren't dangling off a stool for two hours. If you're not bothered about seeing chefs plate dishes, the other tables dotted around the room offer a bit more privacy for romantic redezvous or clandestine chats. What's the menu like? It's billed as a ten course tasting menu for €82, but be aware that each of the snacks is considered a single course, as is the bread, a teeny bite of pre-desert and the petit fours to finish. We think the optics would have been better to describe it as a five-course menu with added extras - under-promise and over-deliver. Those first two snacks were a plump Connemara oyster with bracing yuzu and herbacous thyme, and a perfectly crisp nori tartlet with bluefin tuna, ginger, roe and sesame oil. Two for two - a great start. After that came silky foie gras custard with a thin layer of quince jelly, a quenelle of quince chutney, toasted walnuts, and the most perfect, golden, mini English muffins. Light as air inside, crispy and rubbly from the cornmeal they were fried on top of outside, this is a killer dish that's already the talk of town. Next came hamachi (also called yellowtail or amberjack) crudo, with apple aguachile, basil oil and unbilled Jalapeño and toasted almonds. We love dishes like this, the kind that act like an electric jolt to your palate, all acid and heat, curing and then cutting through the hamachi's oily texture. Next came salmon with miso buttermilk, trout roe and baby leek, and confession: we haven't eaten farmed salmon since watching Seaspiracy and getting a major ick about it. The creamy, umami-laded sauce is lick the plate clean material, little balls of roe popping as you slurp, and the baby leek was just cooked to retain the slightest bite. Salmon feels like an odd (maybe safe) choice, and while it's cooked beautifully in a sous vide before being blowtorched to finish, we'd much prefer to see a local and/or wild fish here instead. Then the bread course, which to be fair, deserves its own course. It deserves its own restaurant. The seeded pretzel restaurant. 10 courses of this pretzel in slightly varying forms. Where do we queue. This particular one with cultured buttermilk had us ooohing and aaahing, smelling and chewing, grabbing staff to tell us what magic lay within. Savour every bite. Ask for a second if you're brave. The last of the savoury courses, and the main proper, is billed as "Ribeye. Carrot. Pistachio." We don't usually grumble about a bit of steak when eating out ( except when served on a wooden chopping board that's been set alight ), but this felt flat, and like another safe choice. The meat (from superstar butcher Peter Hannan ) was very tender (we presume the sous vide had been used again) but lacked flavour, and the pistactio crumbed, meltingly tender carrots and the jus were perfectly nice, but it was missing the magic. With the steak they serve slices from the fat cap (which was predominantly fat), and perfect rectangles of confit potato, a crispy shell encasing a butter soft interior. Before dessert comes a tiny bite of coconut and passionfruit mochi as a palate cleanser - unrelated to the freezer mochi on Asian restaurant dessert menus across the city. Then the dish of the night, the one that we'll still be thinking about years from now, the one that might be our dessert of the year and we're only one month into 2023. A perfect, firm circle of riz au lait (French rice pudding), comes topped with elegantly pipped pastry cream, crystalised mango and mango sorbet, before a cardamom caramel is poured into the centre. The ooohs and aaahs returned, and we found ourselves gazing into the kitchen at Pizarro, wondering how we could make her fall in love with Dublin and never leave. Petit fours to finish of black sesame shortbread and chocolate fudge brownie were pleasant but unmemorable - that mango rice pudding is a hard act to follow though. What about drinks? You're in very safe hands when it comes to wine. Scott White (formerly in Aimsir, Mr Fox and Patrick Guilbaud) is the sommelier, and the list is full of interesting bottles you'll want to drink and pour over on the list, all with an indie producer lean. We started with a glass of grower Champagne from Antoine Bouvet (€22), and if you like high end fizz you should too - it's the best possible start to your dining experience, here or anywhere else. The wine pairing is €65 for five glasses and we thought it really delivered. It started with cava with the snacks, two whites, a red, and an incredible Jurançon from South West France with that mango rice pudding - and we thought it couldn't possibly get better. A (lovely) Albariño with the hamachi crudo was the only match that didn't gel as well as the others, but it's a hard dish to pair with its acid and heat, so we're not sure what would have worked better. We did one pairing and tried a couple of different glasses from the list, including an Austrian Pinot Blanc and a Mallorcan red blend, and wasn't one that let things down. We finished with a glass of Taylor's 10 year old tawny port, which is never a bad way to end an evening. How was the service? Frye is a warm and welcoming host, looking genuinely happy to be there greeting and looking after her guests, without anything being forced. Everyone we encountered was smiling and lovely and it felt like there was a ripple of excitement at being involved in a new opening like this. The kitchen was one of the calmest we've ever seen, with barely a conversation to be heard, everyone gently going about their work, looking completely confident in the role they were playing. They haven't changed the menu since opening and we think this is a smart move to let the staff bed in and get into a well-oiled rhythm. What was the damage? You're looking at €147 a head with the wine pairing (and our single glasses added up to around the same), so don't expect to come out with much change under €300 for two if you're doing it properly. It's a big spend and comparable to prices being charged at the best restaurants in the city (including Michelin stars). You could just get a bottle of wine to share between two, but you'll still be looking at circa €250 with a tip, so it won't be a meal to enter into lightly for a lot of people. We also flinched at their tip guide at the bottom showing what 15%, 18% and 20% tip amounts to. These are astronomical tips for most Irish people, especially at this spend, and it's likely to cause embarrassment when someone asks to put "just" 10 or 12% on the bill. The verdict? We're dizzy with delight for Dublin that D'Olier Street has joined the limited crew of restaurants operating at this level, in the most modern of dining rooms, with this kind of skill in the kitchen. An experience that might have been ten a penny in New York is standout here, and while we think some parts of the menu need adjusting and pushing outside of tried and tested formulas, we'd be surprised if they don't take the feedback they've had so far and keep driving forward. We would wager the next few months are going to bring more settling in, more ideas down, more dishes rising up, and with a Michelin visit undoubtedly in their near future, we're marking this as one to watch for a future star. D'Olier Street D'Olier Chambers, D'Olier Street, Dublin 2 dolierstreetrestaurant.com New Openings & Discoveries More >>

Virtuous eating to cleanse away the weekend’s excesses from vegetable-obsessed brothers Jack and Theo Kirwan. Eating well while caring for the environment seem to be their life's purpose, and they're even growing some of their own produce on the Sprout farm in Kildare, meaning it gets to customers' plates faster and fresher. Salads are so colourful and vibrant they're almost bursting from the plate, and change with the seasons. Sprout Exchequer Street Website sproutfoodco.com Address 19 Exchequer Street, Dublin 2 Good For Tag 1 Cuisine Tag 1 Once Over Read our Review >> The Story Virtuous eating to cleanse away the weekend’s excesses from vegetable-obsessed brothers Jack and Theo Kirwan. Eating well while caring for the environment seem to be their life's purpose, and they're even growing some of their own produce on the Sprout farm in Kildare, meaning it gets to customers' plates faster and fresher. Salads are so colourful and vibrant they're almost bursting from the plate, and change with the seasons. Where It's At Nearby Locales Mongoose Chongqing Hot Pot Boco Clontarf Bell Pesto Bang Gloria Osteria Cantina Valentina D'Lepak Pera Borgo Amai by Viktor Kaizen Chubbys Badam Table 45 Comet Daruma Malahide Lena The Pig's Ear Notions @ Two Pups The Rooftop @ Anantara The Marker Sofra Little Geno's Mama Shee Nutbutter Smithfield

Osteria Lucio Solid Italian cooking centred around quality ingredients Posted: 3 Oct 2018 Neighbourhood Neighborhood Name Address Restaurant Address Website Website Name Restaurant Info View the Listing >> Written by: Lisa Cope What’s the story? Most people in the city know Ross Lewis as the chef-patron of Michelin-starred Chapter One , but not many seem to know that he has another restaurant - a modern Italian in Grand Canal Dock that he opened in 2015 with friend Luciano Tona, also a Michelin-starred chef, from Italy. The restaurant's blurb says that Osteria Lucio is in the style of cooking that Ross would do for family and friends (and we certainly wouldn't say no to dinner round his), and they had some very positive reviews under their belt early doors, but since then seem to just be quietly getting on with what they're doing. For those of us not working or living in Grand Canal Dock, it can seem like a different world. It looks different, people dress different, it's very windy. There aren't a whole load of reasons to head that way (tickets for a show at the Bord Gáis Energy Theatre or getting a job in Facebook seem to be the most common ones), but people kept telling us how good the food in Ross' 'other' restaurant was, so we braved the elements to check it out for ourselves. Where should we go for a drink first? There's not a whole pile on the doorstep, and the bar here is really lovely, with interesting wines and a nice aperitivi list, so we'd probably come straight here for a negroni or an aperol spritz. Otherwise you could have a plum and gingerbread daiquiri overlooking the water at Charlotte Quay , or take a short walk down to Beggar's Bush and have a pint in The Old Spot or The Bath Pub . Where should we sit? There are three distinct seating areas - the bar, high tables in the front opposite the bar, and the main room which is cosy and cavelike, and definitely the place to sit if you're looking to engage in intimate conversation. The front area with the bar is a bit buzzier, and great for small groups or lively catch ups, and the bar counter would be great for solo-dining or twosomes who like to chat to the bar staff. What's good to eat? We tried dishes from the pre-theatre (two courses for €25, three for €30) and á la carte menus and everything was very good. Nothing was over complicated, and it's clear they're using quality ingredients and not messing with them too much. Bruschetta on menus here usually has us yawning, but this one, with courgette pesto, tomatoes and olives on perfectly charred bread, was as good an example as we've had in ages. The same focus on quality produce was obvious in another starter of breasola with rocket, datterini tomatoes, pesto and parmesan, which was the perfect precursor to the carby mains. Gnocchi for mains (from the pre-theatre) was of the boiled, not fried variety, and practically melted in our mouths. It sat in a rich ragu of Irish lamb, with dollops of soft goat's cheese and fried parsley on top. The portion was huge, so much so that we took some home. Pizzas (also on the pre-theatre) are thin and crispy, and our Quattro Formaggi with smoked scarmorza, mozzarella, tallegio and gorgonzola was a cheese fiend's dream, our only complaint being that the blue tended to overpower everything else (as it does). Again this was a very generous portion, so come here hungry or prepare to take some home. From the á la carte menu, we loved the Irish beef striploin with shaved cabbage, tomatoes, parmesan and herbs, and if you don't want to roll out in a carb coma this is an excellent choice. The meat was cooked and seasoned perfectly, a combination which is surprisingly hard to find, and this is the dish we've re-imagining eating most since our meal there. The only thing we didn't try was the handmade pasta, but we plan to rectify that very soon, and would be very confident the quality of ingredients would shine through like it did with everything else. For dessert we had to go tiramisu (when in Rome), and it arrived with properly soaked sponge, creamy mascarpone with an espresso crumb and three chunky shards of milk, white and dark chocolate sticking out of it. Hard to think of a better ending to a really enjoyable meal. What about the drinks? As we mentioned earlier, they have a traditionally Italian aperitivi list, with the old reliables like aperol spritz, negronis and bellinis, and some other really interesting sounding cocktails, like 'The Grounds Garden', with vermouth bianco, dingle gin, saint germain, teapot bitters and prosecco. We'd quite like to slowly make our way through the whole list. The wine list is all Italian and has clearly been put together with thought and care. There are no nasty brands, and enough recognisable small producers to provide immediate assurance about the general calibre on offer. We tried a Sicilian blend of Cataratto and Grillo which tasted like honeyed melon and was a really good match for both starters, as well as a Montepulciano D'Abruzzo, which was all red fruits and spice, and perfect with both the lamb gnocchi and the steak. Another red, a blend of Montepulciano and Sangiovese, from renowned organic/biodynamic wine producer Fattoria San Lorenzo, was one of those natural wines that makes you feel like you're doing your body a favour (trust us on this), and was full of cherries and funk. Everything was so reliably good that we'd be happy to close our eyes and see where our finger lands next time And the service? Totally charming. Our Italian waiter was full of smiles and advice, letting us try wines before committing to a bottle and just providing one of those perfect service experiences where they're there when you want them and not when you don't. Everyone else who came near our table was equally lovely, and they came across as an experienced, confident operation. The verdict? This is a really solid, modern Italian where the fuss is left at the door, and the focus is on the ingredients. They're not shouting about what they're doing, and obviously don't need to. The place was packed on a Monday night, and a waitress told us it was actually quite chilled in comparison to other weeks. Dublin needs more restaurants like this with less jazz hands, and more quiet confidence that what they're offering is worth the trip to get there. Osteria Lucio The Malting Tower, Clanwilliam Terrace, Grand Canal Quay, Dublin 2 osterialucio.com New Openings & Discoveries More >>

La Gordita Exciting, original Spanish cooking, in a Bodega-style setting Posted: 4 Apr 2023 Neighbourhood Neighborhood Name Address Restaurant Address Website Website Name Restaurant Info View the Listing >> Written by: Lisa Cope What do we need to know about La Gordita? It's the second, more "grown-up" opening from Las Tapas De Lola 's Anna Cabrera and Vanessa Murphy, just around the corner. It's been pitched as 'bodega-style', but they're not actually looking for people to pitch up at the bar sipping sherry and eating olives. Instead this is somewhere to settle in for a three-course meal with all the wine, and leave feeling spoilt. The head chef here is Maria Luisa Moraleda, who was cooking with Killian Walsh at Clanbrassil House before being nabbed by the Lola girls, and he's clearly a fan . She seems to have been a brilliant and perhaps lucky hire, being on the ground, ready to make a move, and fitting the restaurant's spec so perfectly, coming to Dublin by way of Sevilla and Donostia. We'd imagine the opening menu is a collaboration between Maria and the owners, but she seems like someone with a strong style and a lot of confidence, so we can see her fully taking the reins before long. Where should we sit? It's a long, narrow room, with a few tables for two, four or six, and the rest bar seating. You know the story. Solo diners will love the bar option, as will a lot of couples. Any more than two and you're probably better off at a table for conversational reasons. They're aren't many though, two in the front and three in the back, and the maximum booking they can take is for six people. When we booked the website said there was only bar seating available, even though there were empty tables when we got there, and a staff member told us they're trying to keep the tables for bigger groups. If you're a two and would prefer a table, it's worth giving them a call to ask. Two of the tables in the front offer a great people watching vantage point onto Montague Street, while the ones at the back will give you views right into the kitchen. Again if you have a preference it's worth calling and asking if your preferred area is available. What's the lowdown on the menu? Something that may or may not come as an unwelcome surprise is the stipulation that you must order a main course, as part of a minimum two courses per person. A minimum order is never an issue, but when faced with 18 snacks and small plates before the "main deals", each sounding better than the last, being forced to use up so much of your budget and stomach space on the bigger plates might not be what you want. Our server explained that "we're not a tapas bar, that's around the corner in Las Tapas de Lola", but as it's been pitched as 'bodega-style' we assumed there would be more flexibility around ordering, especially as we (and we know most of you) want to try as much on a menu as possible. We pleaded with our server that we'd already picked what we wanted online (three snacks, three small plates, the lobster main and two desserts), and after some back and forth he agreed to let us go forth and eat. We know that being forced with a minimum spend on a menu doesn't sound great either, and that they can't survive unless people order an adequate amount of food, but would that many people really rock up and sit over a plate of almonds for a couple of hours? We don't know what the answer is other than trusting that diners who come to a restaurant actually want to eat, and if they don't having them justifiably removed by the heavies. We started with a couple of gildas, which are the only way to start a meal in any respectable Spanish establishment. Pair with a Manzanilla sherry for the perfect opening to dinner. Before these came a little bowl of complimentary olives from Antequera in Spain, which were richly flavoured, salty and tangy. Then the La Gordita version of garlic bread, or really garlic on toast. So simple, so perfect, so hard to understand why no one else has done this here. This isn't your 49c garlic from the fruit and veg aisle. Staff told us it's coming from Spain each week, and after a low, slow roast is so sweet, so savoury, so perfectly salted, squeezed out and slathered all over the crunchy toast. Our love for vinegar-soaked boquerones runs deep, but the ones here weren't the best we've had. The best ones are bright white, with plump juicy flesh, tang and oil beautifully intertwined. These ones had clearly been doused in some quality olive oil, but were greying and on the tougher side. An 'Asadillo con melva' - salad of roasted red pepper, melva tuna from Barbate in Cádiz, and garlic - on the other hand was simple and perfect. This is the good tuna, the one that makes John West look and taste like cat food, sitting on a bed of sherry vinegar marinated roasted red peppers and slivers of white onion. It tastes like sitting on a Mediterranean beach sipping a cold glass of white wine, feeling the sand between your toes and the sun on your arms. We were advised to order the bombitas de morcilla, one of their most popular dishes, which are Spanish black pudding balls with goat's cheese, served with tomato marmalade. The excellent morcilla is silky soft, and while you might not spot the goat's cheese amongst all the black, every so often you'll get a pleasing whack of it. We can never resist some berenjenas fritas con miel de caña (f ried aubergine with sugar cane honey for the uninitiated), and these were very good but different to every other example we've tried. They're cut so finely they're more like crisps and you don't get any aubergine texture, but once you pop you won't be able to stop, and the sugar cane honey was the ideal consistency, not too thick and treacly as is sometimes the case. For the 'main deal' we couldn't see past the 'Bogavante de Formentera' - fried lobster with potatoes, padrón peppers and fried eggs. It's €37 so it's a splurge, and you only get half a lobster so it's a tricky one to share - we wouldn't advise even attempting if there are more than two of you. It's a beautiful dish, the fresh Irish lobster just cooked, the potatoes cut thin as crisps, padrons oily and salted, and the fried eggs crumpled with all the right crispy edges, and oozing yolks. It's pretty plush, but you're worth it. We'd ordered the patatas panaderas (because trying all and any form of potatoes as an Irish person is mandatory), but as the lobster already came with potatoes our server suggested we try the 'espinacas cremosa' - creamed spinach with pinenuts and raisins, and we scraped every last sliver from the dish. It's the type of side you might try to make at home for steak night, but yours never ends up as silky and creamy and utterly delicious as this one. There are four desserts on the menu and a cheeseplate, but we think they've missed a trick not using the latter as an opportunity to showcase some of the incredible Spanish cheeses available in Ireland, like Manchego, Monte-Enebro and Cabrales. When we visited it was Comté, Delice de Bourgogne and Cashel Blue, which jarred with the rest of the menu and feels like an attempt at appealing to the masses rather than committing to the bit. We were recommended the Tarta de Manzana, a Spanish apple tart not unlike a Tart Tatin, with richly flavoured rum & raisin ice-cream, and while enjoyable, it needed to have been cooked for longer to up the caramelisation - we saw another leaving the kitchen beforehand which was a lot darker and looked more like it. The other headline-grabbing dessert is the Torrijas - almond milk-soaked bread with almond cream. It's a heavy choice to end a meal with, and one you might regret while walking for a taxi/DART/bus, but you'll have no regrets while spooning the burnished, milky, marzipan-esque toast into your mouth. What about the drinks? There are seven sherries by the glass, which is admirable by any Dublin restaurant's standards, but they're all Lustau bar one. Lustau makes some really great sherry, and the three we tried (a dry Palo Cortado, a 25-year dry Oloroso, and a sweet 'Solera' with dessert) were choice examples, but in a city where superstars like Callejuela and De La Riva are readily available we would have liked to see more breath. There's plenty of interest on the main wine list too (more so by the bottle), but we would have loved to see them do a solo Spanish deep-dive like Grano or Apertivo have done for Italy, and left the people pleasing Picpouls and Pouilly Fuissés to the others. Our advice - stick to Spanish, like Raventós' cava-style (but better than most you've probably tried) 'I Blanc', Raul Perez's Godello 'Ultreia', or Comando G's cult Garnacha 'La Bruja De Las Rozas'. There's a classic cocktail list too, plenty of spirits, and beer from Estrella. How was the service? Delightful, charming, hospitality personified. You know immediately that they're going to build up a roster of regulars, whose likes and dislikes they'll get to know, who'll have their favourite spot at the bar, a comped drink before going home. It's just that kind of place, and was always going to be coming from the same team as Las Tapas de Lola, known for one of the warmest welcomes in Dublin. What was the damage? This amount of food which happily fed (stuffed) two with five drinks will cost you €163 before a tip. And the verdict? We always think the mark of a great restaurant is when we're walking out the door looking for reasons to return, and in a city of constant new openings that we're occupationally compelled to try, that's not often the case. We were thinking up excuses to go back to La Gordita before we'd even left, for the caviar and crisps, the anchovies with blue cheese butter, the lamb ribs, the octupus with romesco, the weekend arroz special. Head chef Maria's cooking is exciting, original, honest, and we want more of it., We'd love to see the must order main course stipulation changed to a minimum spend (or dropped altogether), but if this doesn't happen we'd suggest going as a four or six so you can try as many snacks and small plates as possible. Otherwise the sadness at leaving so much unordered may be unbearable. On the other hand it's an excuse for another visit, not that you'll have to try too hard to come up with one. La Gordita 6 Montague Street, Dublin 2 lagordita.ie New Openings & Discoveries More >>

Romain Tessier's Arty Baker stole hearts and Instagram feeds with his stand at Sandycove Store and Yard, before going permanent with his first shop and bakery in Dalkey. Get there early for sourdough loaves, chocolate raspberry cruffins, and jalapeno popper croissants. Arty Baker Website artybaker.com Address 20A Castle Street, Dalkey, County Dublin Good For Tag 1 Cuisine Tag 1 Once Over Read our Review >> The Story Romain Tessier's Arty Baker stole hearts and Instagram feeds with his stand at Sandycove Store and Yard, before going permanent with his first shop and bakery in Dalkey. Get there early for sourdough loaves, chocolate raspberry cruffins, and jalapeno popper croissants. Where It's At Nearby Locales Mongoose Chongqing Hot Pot Boco Clontarf Bell Pesto Bang Gloria Osteria Cantina Valentina D'Lepak Pera Borgo Amai by Viktor Kaizen Chubbys Badam Table 45 Comet Daruma Malahide Lena The Pig's Ear Notions @ Two Pups The Rooftop @ Anantara The Marker Sofra Little Geno's Mama Shee Nutbutter Smithfield

The owners of Reyna down the road have followed their first smash hit with another, this time focused on "Berlin-style kebabs", popularised in West Berlin in the 1970's by Turkish immigrants. There aren't many speedy food options around town that taste this good, for prices this low - once you try Chiya we guarantee you'll want to go back again and again. Chiya Website instagram.com/chiyadublin Address chiya, Dame Street, Temple Bar, Dublin, Ireland Good For Tag 1 Cuisine Tag 1 Once Over Read our Review >> The Story The owners of Reyna down the road have followed their first smash hit with another, this time focused on "Berlin-style kebabs", popularised in West Berlin in the 1970's by Turkish immigrants. There aren't many speedy food options around town that taste this good, for prices this low - once you try Chiya we guarantee you'll want to go back again and again. Where It's At Nearby Locales Mongoose Chongqing Hot Pot Boco Clontarf Bell Pesto Bang Gloria Osteria Cantina Valentina D'Lepak Pera Borgo Amai by Viktor Kaizen Chubbys Badam Table 45 Comet Daruma Malahide Lena The Pig's Ear Notions @ Two Pups The Rooftop @ Anantara The Marker Sofra Little Geno's Mama Shee Nutbutter Smithfield

Handsome Burger The Galway-born burgers come to Dublin city centre and the airport, but are they still Ireland's best? Posted: 17 Sept 2024 Neighbourhood Neighborhood Name Address Restaurant Address Website Website Name Restaurant Info View the Listing >> Written by: Lisa Cope & Maggie Fagan What should we know about Handsome Burger? Galway born Handsome Burger hit national headlines after being named best burger in Ireland 2019 , in a nationwide competition organised by meat company Kepak for National Burger Day (what a world we live in). Started as a market stall by two friends in 2017, they opened their first permanent premises on Galway's Dominick Street in 2019, before flirting with the Dublin market at Eatyard . In a surprise move, a Handsome Burger franchise opened next in Dublin airport in summer 2023, with a second standalone site opening on Chatham Street at the start of summer 2024. Their website says they "have two locations in Ireland and (are in) the process of planning a global takeover!" , and there's an inquiry form website for potential franchisees to get in touch. These guys have no interest in keeping things small and manageable. Franchising poses a big problem for business owners who like to be in control of their product - you're effectively handing the reins to someone else and hoping for the best. We've had multiple messages from readers who've passed through the airport and were sorely disappointed with their Handsome Burger experience, and now that the first location in Dublin city centre site is alive and kicking, we thought we'd check both out for ourselves. Where should we sit? Seating in Chatham Street is relatively limited, with just three low and three high tables inside, and more outside which will become defunct as winter wears on. The good thing is people should eat fast and move on, but we wouldn't fancy huddling in the middle of the room trying to dive on the next available table. Outdoor tables are all for two, so not the best idea with a group either, and you'll be blocking the central path if you pull two together. In the airport, it's an open mezzanine situation - sit where you want at seating so hard and uncomfortable it ensures you won't linger. What's the menu like? Complicated. The first thing you should know is that the menu on their website is not what you're going to find on Chatham Street or in the airport. There are five burgers on there that don't appear in either site, nor do the chicken tenders. On Chatham Street there's a choice of three beef, two chicken and a vegan Beyond Burger, as well as regular fries and two with toppings. In the airport it's more limited, with two beef, one chicken and the vegan, and fries are mandatory, with no option to just order a burger - they're not here to cater for the low carb girlos. You'll find their signature "handsome burger" on both menus, with cheese as an optional add on. It also has sticky onions, pickles, rocket and house sauce, which we're guessing is a mix of mustard, mayo, ketchup and gherkins based on this article . It's a juicy burger (if lacking in char) and the sauce is good, but we've yet to be convinced on rocket as a burger filling. At the airport it was an order at the kiosk situation. There were no options for substitutes (not cool in burger world), and it all felt very robotic and lacking in love - that taste came through in the food. Their flagship burger should be top of its game, but the Handsome was a flop. The meat was void of juice and lacked flavour. The pickles that should have been the welcome jazzy crunch to cut through the richness of the meat were soggy. The cheese, although seen, could not be perceived, and there was a serious lack of sauce. Not to mention the bun was dried out. Sad times indeed. The B.O.B. comes with lardons, crispy onions, double cheese and house sauce, and is a step up on the flavour scale from the handsome burger. The crispy onions and lardons add welcome texture to all that juiciness, but once again the burger itself needed more char. Despite asking three times in three different places if Handsome Burger 's chicken is free-range, we are still no wiser - their website says nothing about their sourcing. Their social media account told us that they use " Manor Farm free range Irish Chicken 90% of the time - occasionally we have to get another when demand is higher than supply ." They didn't respond to a follow up question about what it's replaced with. The staff in the airport Handsome Burger told us the chicken is not free-range. A senior member of staff in the Chatham Row branch told us it is - after a long pause where he didn't seem sure. We almost went round back for a root through the bins. The roost chicken burger (which may or may not be free range) had a buttermilk-fried chicken breast coated in a spicy buffalo sauce, which managed to remove all crispiness from the coating. There are pickles, lettuce and not enough Caesar dressing, but it was all so soggy it was probably better off. There's a proper kick to this one, so only dive in if your spice tolerance is high, and your crispiness craving is low. Meanwhile at the airport... Our vegan counterpart was convinced they had made a mistake with the burgers, as the Beyond Meat patty was so close to the real deal. Similarly to the carnivorous Handsome Burger, the pickles were a let down, and the bun dry. Chips were lacklustre and lukewarm. Rosemary and sea salt fries in Chatham Street were just about warm and lacking in crunch, but not as bad as in the airport. We didn't finish either portion, and it takes a lot to leave chips behind. The fries on their feed back in 2020 were declared hand-cut and triple-cooked, and look considerably better than what we were served in both locations. The loaded fries with chorizo, mint raita, grilled onions, chillies and garlic aioli was an unusual if enjoyable combo - somewhere between Indian and Spanish, but a €9 portion that was 25% onions felt steep. What about drinks? You're unlikely to be inspired by their drinks menu, and they're unlikely to want you to hang around once your burger's done, so everyone's happy. There's basic soft drinks or water, a white or red wine (Pinot Grigio or Malbec when we were in), a single Galway beer by can, and a German beer on draught. With all the brilliant beer being brewed in Ireland right now, it could be so much better. How was the service? Not very enthused. We had a muted greeting, and our food took almost 20 minutes to arrive - people who came after us got their food before us so something must have gone awry. What was the damage? €48.50 for three burgers, two fries and no drinks. A handsome burger, fries and a draught beer will cost you €20. In the airport the handsome burger and fries is €14.95 (5c cheaper). And the verdict? Maybe we're spoiled by craggy, crusty smash burgers, but Handsome's fatty patties didn't do it for us. Maybe back in 2019 their burgers and chips tasted better than this, maybe the focus on franchising has taken the focus off quality control. If you're in the neighbourhood and the queue for Bambino is too long you could do a lot worse. If you're in the airport, we wouldn't bother. As far as taking the Dublin burger top spot, Dash have nothing to worry about just yet. New Openings & Discoveries More >>

From gut-friendly food on the quays to one of the city's coolest wine bars, with all the baked goods on Pearse Street sandwiched in the middle. Pearse St - Merrion Square Our Take From gut-friendly food on the quays to one of the city's coolest wine bars, with all the baked goods on Pearse Street sandwiched in the middle. Where to Eat As One Bread 41 Cloud Picker D'Olier Street Gursha Honey Truffle Il Caffe di Napoli Jean Georges @ The Leinster Note Tang Cumberland Place Vice

Sister 7 BIGFAN's beer-based collab is another smash hit Posted: 16 Apr 2024 Neighbourhood Neighborhood Name Address Restaurant Address Website Website Name Restaurant Info View the Listing >> Written by: Lisa Cope What do we need to know about Sister 7 @ Fidelity Studio? Not that long ago, the BIGFAN guys met the Whiplash Beer / Fidelity Bar guys, and bonded over food, beer, and mad flavour science. A trip to the brewery in Cherry Orchard was organised, and they fell in love over mash tuns and steam generators. The beer boys had taken the lease on the site next door to Fidelity and planned to open Fidelity Studio (with the guys behind The Big Romance ), a dog-friendly, late night, audiophile bar, with an as yet undetermined food offering. The idea for Sister 7, and BIGFAN's second restaurant was born... Sister 7 is named after Head chef Chung Lee, who has worked at Big Fan under head chef Alex Zhang since they opened. Her Chinese colleagues call her "sister", and she's the new girl boss character to Alex Zhang's BIGFAN boss man . Unfortunately she's had to temporarily return to China so missed opening week, and other staff members that Alex went to China to interview and hire haven't arrived here either, so at the moment it's a case of stretching who they do have across two sites. (Sister 7) They've said the menu will be 70% BIGFAN classics and 30% crossover dishes developed with Whiplash using beer or spent product from their brewery, and we're expecting constant collaboration and dish development. (Sister 7) We don't make a habit of doing a Lucinda and showing up on night one (in fact we've never done this), but we ended up looking for somewhere to eat on the day Sister 7 were opening, and knowing the calibre of these two teams we couldn't stop ourselves having an early peek. They'd had a few family and friends nights the weekend before to get to grips with things, and if it was terrible we'd go away and come back in a month. We booked a table for 4pm, but as we walked up to the door there were unloading our table from a van - this was not looking good. Staff laughed when we said we had a reservation, and that their furniture was delayed in arriving. We questioned why no one had called us to let us know, but we couldn't get an answer. We sat in Fidelity next door and given a complimentary drink while we waited for what we were told would be 10 minutes, then 15, then another 10, and it was close to 5pm before we actually sitting down. Not the best start considering we had to be gone by 6pm. "Please let this be good..." we prayed to the restaurant Gods... Where should we have a drink beforehand? If you feel like two venues for the price of one (not literally sadly, you will have to pay for drinks), head to original, brilliant beer bar Fidelity next door. As a Whiplash -owned bar they feature heavily, but you will find other breweries like Kinnegar , Trouble Brewing and UK-based Northern Monk . The 'Cellar Menu' is where the real geeks should head - the 500ml bottles there sell for as much as €38. Think of them as fine wine, and made for sharing. We tried the Whiplash x Allta dark sour, a heady, fruity mix with a vinegary whistle at the end, and a N/A version of their mango jalapeño cocktail, the heat from the jalapeño and hot honey deftly disguising the missing Absolute vodka. Where should we sit? It's business in the front, party in the back, with a DJ booth that looks like it's going to be busy. For something that feels like it's opened in a hurry, the design does not feel like a rush job. The colour scheme of black, sage green and rust feeling warm and contemporary, with little accents of gold bringing a bit of luxe. There are curved banquettes in the front room and on one side of the back, and we can confirm they're very comfortable to spend an hour on. There's also a cute counter for two along the divide across the rooms. Sound systems are not our specialist subject but we hear this one is very impressive, and expensive - if you want the details on subwoofers and coax compression drivers you can get it on their website . What's on the menu? Currently it's a lot of the dishes we know and love from BIGFAN , the baos, jiaozi, duck wings and more, but the cleverness and USP for this site is going to be the dishes they incorporate Whiplash beer and brewery by-products into. Start with the crackers made from spent brewery grain (€5). They sound odd, but taste amazing, some like puffed pork rinds, others with the short, crumbly texture of parmesan crisps. They come with an outrageous beefy chilli oil, complete with chewy, deep-fried beef floss - if there's one thing we've obsessed about daily since leaving here it's this condiment. Go, eat it, and beg them to make it available retail. Sweet heart eggs are another bar snack, cured with soy and bonito, with garlic and chilli oil (€5, or €13 with oscietra caviar added on). We didn't order caviar but it arrived anyway, and who's going to complain about that. The eggs were perfectly fudgy, but it's the garlic and chilli oil that takes it from "mmmm" to "mmmmaaagawd" so make sure it's spread all over. The caviar is a nice add on if you're in the black that week, and a more wallet-friendly way to try it than some other options around town, but our eggs were too cold, clearly not out of the fridge that long. We should have let them come to room temperature but we were too hungry. Bar snack number three, and it's a hat-trick with the Iberico char siu puffs - two for €7. The homemade pastry on this would make you weep - layer upon layer of crispy, flaky magic, not a soggy corner in sight, and the sweet, smoky, juicy filling will give Dublin pork puffs the best possible name, Most of Dublin have had Big Fan 's wagyu cheeseburger's jiaozi at this stage, and the new 'Chun Li' ones here, with chicken, celeriac and water chestnuts, are rolled in the same long style. They come with pickled mushrooms and a Whiplash dark sour vinegar (mimicking the traditional Chinkiang/black rice vinegar), and it's all very clever, and very delicious - despite the filling continuously falling out of the open-ended dumplings. We can nary pass up a soup dumpling, so the xiao long bao (€12) also went on our order sheet. They're filled with minced Andarl Farm pork and pork stock, with a ginger and black vinegar dip on the side. In case you don't know how you're supposed to eat soup dumplings, you pierce a hole in them over a spoon, squeeze out the fragrant soup inside, then dip the remaining dumpling in the dipping sauce. If you're a xiao long bao first timer, this is a great place to pop your dumpling. When it comes to the baos, the classic BIGFAN and Shan Ji appear here, but it's the Sister 7 one you want, with Whiplash Slow Life braised beef short rib, barley crumb, pickled ginger, ume and rhubarb fermented chilli, and cos lettuce. This is the type of bonkers combination that shows what a mad genius BIGFAN 's owner and chef Alex Zhang is. Rhubarb with beef? Why is this combination one of the best things we've tasted in months!? You may place a repeat order - we would have if we'd had time. Another beer-based take on a BIGFAN classic is the Fidelity fried chicken with a Blue Ghost and brewery grain batter, and a side of honey mustard yoghurt. These guys know how to brine and deep-fry to get the juiciest meat, but we waited a long time for this and when it finally did arrive it hadn't been drained properly - we can only put it down to a rush to get it out. The yoghurt was too heavy on the mustard, and we found ourselves coughing as it went up our noses. A couple of tweaks and all will be good. We ended with another new one - Lipsticks. Fermented rice is mixed with finely chopped vegetables including celeriac, shiitake, yam and cabbage, wrapped in tofu skin and served with a maple and miso mayo. BIGFAN have never snoozed on vegetarian options, and this is another good one to get your five a day, but we found the rich lipsticks and the sweet sauce in need of a jolt of acidity somewhere. The easiest fix would be to vinegar up that mayo. What's the story with drinks? Like the mothership next door, beer is the star attraction here. Whiplash beers come on tap, with a board for specials, which included the "Even sharks need water" IPA, and a "Pisco Sour" sour beer. Expect these to change regularly. There's also a standard selection of wines on tap, and some nice looking cocktails, including Basil Margaritas and Negroni Blancos. How was the service? While the food is BIGFAN , the servers are Fidelity , and despite our rubbish start, once we got in and seated they were all very pleasant and helpful. There was obvious beer knowledge so recommendations and tastes of things on tap won't be an issue, and we know BIGFAN will make sure everyone's up to speed on the food. Some dishes were slow in coming out, but it was night one proper so that didn't set off any alarm bells. And the damage? After the inauspicious start, they tried to not charge us for the meal, but as (we hope) you know, we don't write about food we haven't paid for, so we eventually accepted an opening night discount of 10% which they said everyone was getting that night. Prices here have a slight increase on what's on Big Fan's online menu , with some dishes up by 30c, others by 50c, but by and large they're very similar. This amount of food should have been €75 before drinks, and generously fed two. €50 a head is reasonable with a couple of drinks per person, but obviously the sky's the limit if you dig into the drinks list. Either way we thought it felt like brilliant value for money on the barometer of city prices right now. What's the verdict on Sister 7? It's not even open a week and it's clear that BIGFAN have another smash hit on their hands, the collaboration with Fidelity a thoughtful move for both. This kind of instant buzz is what restaurant and bar owners dream of, showing the strength of the fan-base both already had, and how it's multiplied by coming together. The real draw here is the collaboration between brewery and kitchen, the sustainable aspect of using brewery leftovers to make edible dishes, and the obvious passion both brands have for doing things right, giving diners something innovative and exciting to spend their earnings on. It's bar food, but so much better. New Openings & Discoveries More >>

A go-to wine bar for those in the know. Interesting list of responsibly made wines, knowledgeable staff and creative, Italian influenced food from Enrico Fantasia (owner of wine import company Grape Circus) and his partner Thibault Harang (formerly of Pichet and Town Bar & Grill). Seats on the outdoor terrace complete with heaters are in demand year round. Piglet Website pigletwinebar.ie Address 5 Cow's Lane, Temple Bar, Dublin 2 Good For Tag 1 Cuisine Tag 1 Once Over Read our Review >> The Story A go-to wine bar for those in the know. Interesting list of responsibly made wines, knowledgeable staff and creative, Italian influenced food from Enrico Fantasia (owner of wine import company Grape Circus) and his partner Thibault Harang (formerly of Pichet and Town Bar & Grill). Seats on the outdoor terrace complete with heaters are in demand year round. Where It's At Nearby Locales Mongoose Chongqing Hot Pot Boco Clontarf Bell Pesto Bang Gloria Osteria Cantina Valentina D'Lepak Pera Borgo Amai by Viktor Kaizen Chubbys Badam Table 45 Comet Daruma Malahide Lena The Pig's Ear Notions @ Two Pups The Rooftop @ Anantara The Marker Sofra Little Geno's Mama Shee Nutbutter Smithfield

Note Bistro Get In Quick Before It Joins The Impossible To Book Club Posted: 28 May 2022 Neighbourhood Neighborhood Name Address Restaurant Address Website Website Name Restaurant Info View the Listing >> Written by: Lisa Cope What's the story? Note's evening wine bar and daytime bureau (café to the lowly amongst us) opened at the end of October to all the adulation , with promises that the 'bistro' part of the trilogy was coming a few weeks later. Weeks and months passed and still no sign of a fully fledged menu, but their bar snacks got slowly more interesting - to the point where two national critics went in to review on the basis of those alone - bet they're raging now. Still, we waited, until a couple of weeks ago when a post appeared on their Instagram page announcing bistro bookings were now being taken, with lift off 10 days later. Note is owned by three friends - Andy Collins who owns the aesthetic Eden that is Indigo & Cloth in Temple Bar, and brothers Acky (the Creative Director of a design company) and Essa Fakhry (the chef). We first came across Essa after a stand-out meal at NY-style Mexican 777 a few years ago, finding out afterwards that he was heading up the kitchen, and when we saw him travelling off to other parts of the globe to stage in some uber-cool restaurants we knew he wasn't messing around. From the first night the bistro menu launched we were getting exclamation-laden messages from readers containing sentences like "the croquettes changed my life!", and "just had the best tuna I've ever tasted!", and we knew from a quick social stalk that they weren't Essa's sister/aunt/housemate, so we were feeling optimistic sitting down to dinner. Where should I sit? It's basically a choice between the bar or the main floor. We love the banquettes by the window so that would be first pick, but sometimes you just want to have the elevation of a bar counter, and if you're dining alone there's no better place to sit and have the chats with staff. What's the food like? This kind of menu is our all-time favourite, with snacks, small plates and larger ones, and no minimum order or demand on your time and wallet to have three courses. A few weeks ago there was also a chef's menu for €70pp where they brought you food with no decision-making involved, but that seems to be on hiatus for now. Most likely because at the time we visited it was just Essa and a commis chef in the kitchen - which became all the more impressive as the dishes started to roll out. For the first time in quite a long time we wanted every single dish on the menu, all killer, absolutely zero filler, and whittling it down to a generous amount for two was as close as we've (thankfully) come to slow, painful torture. Begrudgingly and after at least 20 minutes of torment, we settled on a snack, three small plates, a medium and a large. Coming here with a group would be a great way to get through most of the menu and leave having ticked every bistro box - but be aware, it's changing all the time so could be completely different when you visit. We skipped the sourdough with Glenilen butter because once we saw 'anchovy toast' there was no other option. At first it just tasted like really good toasted sourdough dripping with butter, but then you come across a little nugget of anchovy and an accompanying salty explosion. A great start. We go all starry-eyed emoji seeing ceviche on menus (it happens so rarely in this country of ours so full of fish), so we were right onto Note's Stonebass ceviche with lime, oregano and jalapeño, with unmentioned orange segments and slices of radish. It wasn't just a highlight of dinner, it was a highlight of the entire year so far. Staff told us Essa prepares it like an aguachile (soupier and less marinating time) and you will be fighting over the last few drops of that turbo-charged juice with the slightest hint of heat at the end. Ceviche, aguachile, whatever it was, it's difficult to imagine it could tasbetter than this, and if it doesn't stay on the menu permanently we'll be first in line with our placards. Next another ingredient so rarely seen on menus here, white asparagus, with Shepherd's Store cheese and toasted hazelnuts. The asparagus was barely cooked so still had crunch, and was generously covered in the nutty cheese sauce, with another flurry on top, and toasted hazelnuts hiding within. White asparagus has a brutally short season, and if we only get to eat it once a year we want to eat it like this. Next, another dish we've never seen on a menu here (are you sensing a theme?) - Vitello Tonnato, a Piedmontese dish of cold, sliced veal with a kind of tuna-flavoured mayonnaise on top. Super juicy, delicately flavoured meat, a dollop of subtly tuna tasting mayonnaise, and some caper berries to jolt your palate back to reality, resulted in another dish with forks clashing at the end, and not even a smear of sauce left. We'd ordered the lobster au homard (which technically means lobster au lobster) not knowing what to expect, but out came three stuffed mezzelune in a soupy bisque, with some chopped cucumber and more lobster meat on top. We love lobster in all its forms, and this had it coming at you from every angle - in the pasta, in the sauce, in the chunks on top. Everything else on the plate shone a light on the star ingredient, from the deeply flavoured bisque to the finely diced cucumber, with nothing threatening to overtake its subtle flavour - skillful and sensitive cheffing. We also tried a side of their potato mousseline, which was basically potato flavoured butter - and there ain't nothing bad about that. Desserts were on the more simple side - an affogato with hazelnuts and homemade coffee liqueur poured over the top (you won't need that post-meal espresso), and madeleines that would give St John a run for their money. If you don't end a meal here with them, you haven't really been. What about drinks? Even though Note is a wine bar first, they haven't let standards slip on cocktails, beer or cider. Bar manager Alan makes his own limoncello, the coffee liquor for the affogato, and no doubt countless other concoctions to be found within the cocktail list. For us the only way to start is with a glass of their grower champagne, a (relative) steal at €17 a glass, when many places around town are charging €25 a glass for Grand Marques muck. In a place like this we love to drink by the glass and try as much as possible, and the person you want making recommendations is the wine brains behind the operation - GM Katie Seward. We basically let her take the wheel bringing us pairings for each dish, and over the night tried Fiano from Campania, Vital (a new grape on us) from Lisbon, dry Pedro Jiminez from Catalonia, Cru Beaujolais, and Loire Valley Chardonnay. Without fail, every pairing made the dish in question taste even better, and we could count on one hand the amount of places with a hit rate this impressive. The only addendum we'd add is that the low margin wine prices we raved about at the start have taken a bit of a jump. There's still value to be had, particularly at the higher end of the price range (that Marguet Shaman grower champagne is less than €15 more than you'd pay retail to drink in), but prices at the lower end now feel more in tandem with average prices around town. How was the service? As lovely and professional as you would hope for. Food and drinks were perfectly paced, and we were never left to wave someone down or with empty glasses or plates for long. And the damage? €195 for two before tip, including champagne and cider to start, a wine for every dish, and an extra to end the night. Definitely on the higher end of dining out spends, but you could do it for considerably less if you just got one bottle of wine on the lower end of the scale. Our advice though would be to go and do it right. The verdict? Regular London or Paris goers will recognise the need for a wine bar/bistro like Note in Dublin, and we've finally got it - hopefully the first of more to come. This is somewhere that would hold its own in any buzzing European city, and we selfishly dread word getting out and it joining the "impossible to book" club of Library Street, Variety Jones and the rest. Rather than "giving the people what they want", Essa Fakhry is stirring, saucing and banging pots to his own drum. Rather than looking exhausted and stressed at serving an entire restaurant with such little backup, he seems relaxed, confident, invigorated - like he's finally cooking the food that's at his core. We've already got our next booking for Note Bistro in the bag, and suggest you do the same before everyone finds out about it. Note Bistro 26 Fenian Street, Dublin 2 notedublin.com New Openings & Discoveries More >>

Allta Bar Casual dining at Allta is an exciting development for the Docklands, with a masterpiece of a burger Posted: 15 Oct 2024 Neighbourhood Neighborhood Name Address Restaurant Address Website Website Name Restaurant Info View the Listing >> Written by: Ronan Doyle What should we know about Allta Bar? The ever-evolving Allta only made it about four months in the OG Setanta Place space that’s now home to Library Street , before the pandemic forced a closure never to be undone. Well received Summer and Winter House popups throughout those strange years added a cocktail bar, Glovebox , to the stable, and while its artsy vibes and great drinks made it a hit, we sensed the dropping of the name for the stripped-back ' Allta Bar ' suggested a change in direction. Since Allta’s new permanent docklands home opened in January of this year, the smaller space to the left of the building has done solid business for a pre and post-dinner drinks – that’s as much thanks to the lack of any decent options nearby as the custom sound system and decks they installed. Something bigger though was always the plan, and the start of the month saw the launch of a new bar menu to turn this section from high-end waiting room to a destination of its own. Where should we sit? With exposed concrete and air vents aplenty softened with fur furnishings and a plethora of plant life, the more casual bar space manages to hit a balance between openness and intimacy. Mismatched swivel and bucket seats as well as benches are set at low tables, for a sit-back-and-sip comfort more fitting for a drinks-only affair. Those out to eat greedily (guilty your honour) might be best off asking for one of the three high-stool two-tops, or taking a space at the twelve-seater circular bar – the lower tables might make you feel you’ve been seated at a kids’ Christmas table, awkwardly leaning forward to cut through a knee-height steak from your lower perch. What’s on the menu? The staff will point your attention toward the oilskin dungaree-clad man in the mural – as if you could miss him – and tell you the tale of Paddy O’Sullivan, the Kerry oyster fisherman whose catch has been on Allta’s plates just as his furrowed brow has been on its walls, since those first days back in 2019. A lesser venue might make this backstory sound like a sales spiel, but true enthusiasm isn’t easily faked, and a passion for provenance is a theme of the meal. Close your eyes as these sizeable specimens slip-side from the shell and you could be head-deep in the waters of Cromane Bay, such is the fresh shock of salt water. As the meat’s sweetness takes over, house fermented hot sauce and mignonette bring a tart and tangy balance, and the wall décor makes more sense as the quality sinks in. Not much can match the gasp-courting quality of a top-tier oyster’s briny blast, but the bluefin tuna makes a good go of it. We’ve seen a few versions of these tartare rosti bites at the new Allta, with mussel and dexter beef last spring a standout, but this latest levelling-up leaves them in the dust. The chilli-citrus kick of yuzu koshō plays off the intense sea-saltiness of the fish and the rosti’s crisp richness, for a snack we slivered off in wafer-thin bites to make it last longer. Pity the poor arancini having to stack up after those two. There’s nothing wrong with Allta’s take on the Sicilian street food, almost obligatory on bar menus these days, but the scale of invention that went before isn’t anywhere in sight here. Tender, fatty flakes of beef shin generously stirred through the bright yellow risotto make for a tasty mouthful and a pretty sight, but sensitive souls that we are we found the saffron notes too domineering. You won’t find Allta’s beef supplier plastered on the wall but Woodtown, proud owners of Ireland’s oldest purebred Jersey herd, have just as prominent a place. Chef and owner Niall Davidson spent time as a butcher and has put a lot of thought into how we can be more sustainable and less wasteful with beef – fatted ex-dairy cattle are the result. At the restaurant side of the house, you’ll find a choice of steak cuts charged by the 100g; here, it’s an even €18 for the cut of the day – if there’s any you’re unkeen on, be sure to ask. Ours was short rib, superbly charred from the alternating grill-and-rest technique Davidson has settled on for his custom beef, with the medium rare interior’s locked-in juices teeming forth from tenderised meat. The thick puddle of horseradish bearnaise is a smart accompaniment, if on occasion a little too sweet for our palates. We know you're dying to know about the Allta Bar cheeseburger that's been touted so much in their promo photos. It's a masterpiece, as good a use as any for this prime meat. House pickles, Mount Leinster cheddar, a fermented potato bun from No Messin’ , and the infamous shiitake miso butter we all licked the jar clean of in those lockdown box days - every element of this is one we would eat in isolation, but brought together it’s the stuff of burger loving dreams, a concert of quality ingredients that bolster rather than bury the beef. The scant serving of chips are hand-cut and triple-fried to moreishness, ill-served by having so few more on either plate - another spud is hardly likely to torpedo the price point. That this is going for €18 is a shock - given the endless gastropubs around the area shilling a basic-as burger for that or more, this feels like the deal of the year. We couldn’t quite say the same for the €28 dessert (not a typo). Six grams of caviar and a strip of gold leaf are primarily to blame for that price point, a luxury temptation that feels out of sorts with the rest of the meal. The minimal waste philosophy is in play again, with potato peels saved from compost and oven-caramelised for an intensely earthy, subtly sweet ice cream. We’ll confess a cynicism that spud scraps and sturgeon egg would make for a sensible pairing, but the silky-soft scoop played so well off the salt-spiked richness of the roe that we ate our words along with our caviar. Tiramichoux is as nice to eat as it is to say, and a good deal less guilt-inducing on your wallet than the ice cream. Have cameras at the ready for the stream of caramel that cascades down the filling of mascarpone cream as you cut through the crisp pastry. The contrastingly light and heavy textures are a wonder to munch through, with the smooth coffee oil ice cream and crunchy cacao nibs adding extra flavour bursts. We might have expected petit fours over at the restaurant, but not so much the bar. A blackcurrant pastille was a densely delicious shock of intense fruit flavour, while a pretty orange caramel bonbon brought a just-right richness to round things off. A pitch-perfect contrast of crisp caramelised exterior and chewy custard centre are the hallmarks of any great canelé; here, as elsewhere, Allta shows its no amateur. What are the drinks like? This new lease of life for the bar brings with it a new cocktail menu, most at a €16 price point that puts it solidly toward the top of the market – we noted that’s a €2.50 hike on the previous list we sipped our way through when the space bore the Glovebox name. The quality has risen along with the price though, and if you’re willing to part with that amount it won't be spent in vain. The Scottish-Irish hybrid 'Rathlin' pairs poitín and Islay single malt with sherry and kelp for a smoke and salt-saturated answer to an old fashioned – what a way to whet the appetite. 'Skellig Michael' sits among the lighter choices, gin spiked with the complexity of Stillgarden’s Glas 55 herbal liqueur and the crisp bite of apple juice. As a fresh foil to cut through richer dishes it works very well. We cannot urge you enough to have an 'Aran' with dessert. Allta’s miso butter shot to fame long ago, but here it’s found an altogether higher purpose washed with Teelings for a butterscotch-scented beauty we want to drink again and again. For those not partaking, the 'Conor’s' gets a kick from Fire & 5th's N/A spirit, played off the zip of a grapefruit and a tarragon sherbet-spiked tonic for a grownup teetotal choice. The solid BTG wine list counts producers we've enjoyed elsewhere in the city like La Sapata, Bulli, Meinklang and Hacienda la Parrilla among the 12-strong choice. There's plenty to enjoy there, and all the more by the bottle, with prices broadly on-par with competitors like Note How was the service? As in the restaurant, the Allta staff are trained to a tee on every inch of the menu, and bristling to be asked for more detail. They will go long and deep on any dish if you care to hear more, without the stuffiness that sometimes brings. Service here is a testament to the reality that you can keep it informal without ever being anything less than deadly serious about great food. The plates here could be wheeled out by mute robots and would still sing, but the staff’s copious pride and passion speaks volumes about the kind of food culture that's been sought out and cultivated, and it’s infectious. And the damage? We had a much fuller feast than we’d expect most to enjoy at Allta Bar – caviar and all – so don’t take our €115 food bill (cocktails came to another €60) as any kind of indication. It is fair to say we went all-in; more normal sorts could exit well fed for €30 a head before drinks. There’s not many places around town you can eat so well for so little. One sore note that we didn’t notice until afterwards was a €6 charge for those petit fours we never asked for. We’d pay it again, but it doesn’t feel right not to know it in advance. What’s the verdict on Allta Bar? For all we’ve loved Allta in its many guises, it’s fair to say it’s never quite been a casual night out – to all but the most devout food fans, this has always been special occasion stuff. This new Allta Bar feels like a conscious effort to elbow into another end of the market, with some dishes – mains especially – clocking in at prices of sensational value for the quality you get. To have ethical, sustainable, seasonal and minimal-waste food this accessible is an exciting development for the city, and we hope it gets as busy as it deserves to be. New Openings & Discoveries More >>

You might walk into Caffe di Napoli on Westland Row, just next to Pearse Street Station, thinking it’s just a cafe, but venture down the staircase at the back and you could be in Naples. We love the antipasto, which varies depending on what’s available, and while they're not breaking any moulds when it comes to pizza and pasta, we've got a major soft spot for anywhere this Italian to the core. Il Caffe di Napoli Website ilcaffedinapoli.ie Address 41 Westland Row, Dublin 2 Good For Tag 1 Cuisine Tag 1 Once Over Read our Review >> The Story You might walk into Caffe di Napoli on Westland Row, just next to Pearse Street Station, thinking it’s just a cafe, but venture down the staircase at the back and you could be in Naples. We love the antipasto, which varies depending on what’s available, and while they're not breaking any moulds when it comes to pizza and pasta, we've got a major soft spot for anywhere this Italian to the core. Where It's At Nearby Locales Mongoose Chongqing Hot Pot Boco Clontarf Bell Pesto Bang Gloria Osteria Cantina Valentina D'Lepak Pera Borgo Amai by Viktor Kaizen Chubbys Badam Table 45 Comet Daruma Malahide Lena The Pig's Ear Notions @ Two Pups The Rooftop @ Anantara The Marker Sofra Little Geno's Mama Shee Nutbutter Smithfield

Their Walkinstown Roundabout food truck has long boasted some of Dublin's best fried chicken sandwiches but Cluck Chicken have finally got a permanent home. They've expanded up the road to Tallaght, bringing some much needed zing to the food options of The Square where they'll continue to sling chicken burgers alongside of fries and other sides. Owner Ian Ussher had a big hit when he opened Ian's Kitchen in Crumlin last year so hopefully this new brick and mortar location will continue that trend. Cluck Chicken Website cluckchicken.ie Address Unit 136, Level 1, The Square Shopping Centre, Tallaght, Dublin 24 Good For Tag 1 Cuisine Tag 1 Once Over Read our Review >> The Story Their Walkinstown Roundabout food truck has long boasted some of Dublin's best fried chicken sandwiches but Cluck Chicken have finally got a permanent home. They've expanded up the road to Tallaght, bringing some much needed zing to the food options of The Square where they'll continue to sling chicken burgers alongside of fries and other sides. Owner Ian Ussher had a big hit when he opened Ian's Kitchen in Crumlin last year so hopefully this new brick and mortar location will continue that trend. Where It's At Nearby Locales Mongoose Chongqing Hot Pot Boco Clontarf Bell Pesto Bang Gloria Osteria Cantina Valentina D'Lepak Pera Borgo Amai by Viktor Kaizen Chubbys Badam Table 45 Comet Daruma Malahide Lena The Pig's Ear Notions @ Two Pups The Rooftop @ Anantara The Marker Sofra Little Geno's Mama Shee Nutbutter Smithfield

The South-West suburbs of Dublin were never a stronghold for food in the past but that has started to change. With some great bakeries and breakfast options in D12 and a growing number of great ethnic restaurants in D24, the area is a wise choice for good value. West Dublin Our Take The South-West suburbs of Dublin were never a stronghold for food in the past but that has started to change. With some great bakeries and breakfast options in D12 and a growing number of great ethnic restaurants in D24, the area is a wise choice for good value. Where to Eat D'Lepak Kaizen Mama Shee Orani

CN Duck Roast meats in Ranelagh straight out of Southeast Asia Posted: 28 Jun 2022 Neighbourhood Neighborhood Name Address Restaurant Address Website Website Name Restaurant Info View the Listing >> Written by: Lisa Cope What's the story? CN Duck opened quietly enough on Ranelagh's thoroughfare in February, and apart from one (copied and pasted from their website) article on Lovin' Dublin, and a review in the Sunday Independent, they haven't had a whole pile of coverage, but on a recent visit to Ranelagh in search of somewhere to eat, their online reviews stuck out like a bullet oven in a Dublin suburb. It's a lazy, false stereotype that because people of a similar ethnicity as the restaurant are eating there it must be the best around - people of every colour, race and background eat bad food, and what if it's just the best of a bad lot? - but what stuck out most from all the praise was the steady stream of Asian diners gushing about the quality of the roast meats, and how it was the taste of home they'd been sorely missing. One read: " The best roast duck you could expect to have - it is as best as a 5-star hotel in Hong Kong. This is amazingly delicious. Absolutely worth for the value. Will be visiting again! Salute to the Chef!!! Thank you CN Duck! It effectively heals my homesick. " How could we not after that. Cities like Hong Kong, Singapore and Shanghai are famous for their juicy, crispy-skinned roast meats, cooked in special bullet ovens shaped like torpedos, and hung up in windows and street stalls across town. These ovens circulate heat evenly around the meat, rendering the fat and crisping the skin, and while these aren't the first ones in Dublin, we've never found a source of Chinese roast meats that we thought could compete with the ones we've eaten in South East Asia. Multiple attempts at contacting the restaurant to get more information about who's behind it went unanswered, but one online report claimed they're connected to the Zakura Japanese restaurants. If we ever find out we'll let you know. Where should I sit? This is fast casual dining, with two long tables for sharing with fellow diners, a table for four, two high tables for two, and one outside table that can seat four. The roadside seating isn't the most comfortable and you'll probably be wary of your belongings, but it is nice sitting in the sun (on the rare occasions it shows up). None of the seating has been designed with lounging in mind, so just pull up wherever's free. What's the food like? You're here for the roast meats and we'll hear no more about it, but there is quite a large menu in case you have a heathen in your midst who wants to break ranks (or you just want to get a selection of different dishes - far more reasonable). There are also enough vegetarian dishes to bring any meat-free friends too. We asked which starters were made on site, and were told the spring rolls and the Shao Mai dumpings, so got one of each. There was no doubt the duck spring rolls were made fresh, with uneven wrappers giving up extra crispy bits, and a filling full of fresh, crunchy vegetables, and rich chunks of meat. With a side of sweet chilli sauce for dipping, these are spring rolls the way they should be, yet so rarely are. The Shao Mai (also called Siu Mai) dumplings were stuffed with a pork and mushroom filling so juicy you will want to eat these in one mouthful, the thin pastry pleats holding it all together, and a whole prawn on top. They come with a soy based dipping sauce and are utterly delicious, but heavy. Perfect for sharing, but a whole portion as a starter and you might be done for. For the star attraction, there are a few ways of doing it. The four roast meats on offer are roast duck; crispy pork belly; BBQ char siu pork; and Cantonese soy chicken. You can either order portions of the meat by itself, plumping out your meal with rice and other sides, or you can order it as part of a rice bowl. You can also order combos to try two at once, and because we had to try it all, we got a meat-only combo of roast duck and crispy pork belly, and a rice bowl combo of BBQ char siu pork and Cantonese soy chicken. And oh my this meat. If you've ever eaten your way around those bustling Asian cities this will take you right back there. Too often you find duck in this style with too much fat under the skin, making for unpleasantly chewy mouthfuls, but this was flawlessly rendered down with a slightly sticky marinade, showing what those ovens are capable of in the right hands. You can pay an extra €1 to have it deboned, and if you don't do that just be careful as little shards of bone can sneak into your mouth when you least expect it. The crispy pork belly is cooked in a way that will make you never want to cook it at home again (or eat it anywhere else). By its nature it has more fat than the duck and in more places, but the cracking belongs in the all-star leagues, and the sliver of fat underneath would give fat on meat a good name. There were pieces towards one end that were all fat and crackling, but some people like that too, and there was a lot of meat to get your chops around. The BBQ char siu pork and Cantonese soy chicken were the combo for our rice bowl, and once again, the soy chicken is the best we've had anywhere here. Often slippery, with rubbery skin and no flavour, this skin is made for eating, with the chicken melting underneath it. Again it's on the bone so bear that in mind when jamming it into your mouth. Thin slices of char siu pork had a vivid barbecue flavour, and the portions of meat felt very generous. The rice bowls come with half a jammy, soy-cured egg (as good as the best ramen bars serve, anywhere). stir-fried greens, steamed pak choi and edamame beans, and for €15 for the meat combo this is a hell of a bowl of food. On the table are duck sauce (very hard to find good versions outside of Asian and this is a good version) and chilli oil that tasted like it was based on fermented shrimp paste. Great condiment game. The only downside to these delicious meats is a lack of provenance information. The website says they use "locally sourced meat" but that doesn't mean much, and we would have loved more information on where they're getting it. Outside of the roast meat bonanza there's ramen, noodles, fried rice and stir fries, and while we tend to look at these as filler items, it's hard to imagine the standards dropping from the rest. There's also a good value daytime menu served from 12:00 - 17:00, with a selection of dishes for €9.95 - hard to argue with. We're pretty desperate to go back and try more, and have spent the week quietly cursing Ranelagh residents for having such easy access to it. What about drinks? Soft drinks or beer only - Tiger, Asahi or Tsing Tao, but they also do BYOB at the bargain price of €1 per beer or €6 per bottle of wine. This would be a great place to break out some special bottles, and the food's not spicy enough to overpower anything. How was the service? Very pleasant and to the point. You order at the till and they'll bring your food to you. As you'd expect everything comes when it's ready, so if you want to spread it out we'd advise asking if they can do this when you order. And the damage? €44.95 for a generous amount of food for two with leftovers to take away. For food of this quality we think the value for money is in the city's top tier right now. The verdict? For our money these are the best Chinese roast meats in Dublin right now, and an itch is finally being scratched to complete satisfaction. We hoped CN Duck would be decent, we didn't know it was going to be this good, but maybe we'll take more notice of those gushing Google reviews more often. Hopefully they've got their eyes on other sites so more people can experience the joy, but maybe it's best kept as one solo special spot for soy chicken and char siu. Either way, we're coming up with all sorts of excuses to get back to Ranelagh. CN Duck 12 Ranelagh, Dublin 6 www.cnduck.ie New Openings & Discoveries More >>

Square Dish Website squaredish.com Address Squaredish, Saint Stephen's Green, Dublin, Ireland Good For Tag 1 Cuisine Tag 1 Once Over Read our Review >> The Story Where It's At Nearby Locales Mongoose Chongqing Hot Pot Boco Clontarf Bell Pesto Bang Gloria Osteria Cantina Valentina D'Lepak Pera Borgo Amai by Viktor Kaizen Chubbys Badam Table 45 Comet Daruma Malahide Lena The Pig's Ear Notions @ Two Pups The Rooftop @ Anantara The Marker Sofra Little Geno's Mama Shee Nutbutter Smithfield

Dublin's best-known park is surrounded by food options on all sides. Find a table close-by or grab a takeaway and enjoy it in 22-acres of Victorian-built parkland. St Stephen's Green Our Take Dublin's best-known park is surrounded by food options on all sides. Find a table close-by or grab a takeaway and enjoy it in 22-acres of Victorian-built parkland. Where to Eat Amuri Bang Cellar 22 Cirillo's Dax Etto Floritz Glas Kaldero Little Geno's Margadh RHA Tang Dawson Street The Commons At MoLI

The Big Mamma Group brought their high energy, all Italian Gloria Osteria to Dublin at the end of 2025, and it's safe to say the city had never seen an opening like it. The room is a sight to behold, and the menu spans antipasti, pasta, fish and meat mains, and desserts you'll want to save a whole lot of room for. The vibes in here are glamour and fun, so bring plenty of both and you'll have a great time. Gloria Osteria Website gloria-osteria.com/dublin Address 41 Westmoreland St, Dublin, D02 VY45, Ireland Good For Tag 1 Cuisine Tag 1 Once Over Read our Review >> The Story The Big Mamma Group brought their high energy, all Italian Gloria Osteria to Dublin at the end of 2025, and it's safe to say the city had never seen an opening like it. The room is a sight to behold, and the menu spans antipasti, pasta, fish and meat mains, and desserts you'll want to save a whole lot of room for. The vibes in here are glamour and fun, so bring plenty of both and you'll have a great time. Where It's At Nearby Locales Mongoose Chongqing Hot Pot Boco Clontarf Bell Pesto Bang Gloria Osteria Cantina Valentina D'Lepak Pera Borgo Amai by Viktor Kaizen Chubbys Badam Table 45 Comet Daruma Malahide Lena The Pig's Ear Notions @ Two Pups The Rooftop @ Anantara The Marker Sofra Little Geno's Mama Shee Nutbutter Smithfield Out of gallery

Grano The pasta place we've been waiting for Posted: 22 Jan 2019 Neighbourhood Neighborhood Name Address Restaurant Address Website Website Name Restaurant Info View the Listing >> Written by: Lisa Cope What’s the story? December 2018 was quite the month for restaurant openings in Dublin ( Variety Jones , Gertrude , Uno Mas scraping in on the last day of November), and one that we were really intrigued by was Grano in Stoneybatter, where owner Roberto Mungo's Italian mamma had flown over and was in the kitchen making pasta. Mamma Roma quickly gained cult Instagram status , and social media was alight with talk that Dublin had itself an authentic Italian restaurant to eat fresh pasta in. Roberto is originally from Calabria in Southern Italy, and says he wanted to open a place that reminded him of home. A lot of the ingredients come from producers and farmers who are family friends, and he wanted the restaurant to be in Stoneybatter because of its sense of community - it's also where he lives. Before opening Grano, Roberto worked as a sommelier for Wallace Wine Bars , and a look online at the wine list made it obvious the wine was as important as the food. There are no flashy names, just small producers with loads of organic, biodynamic and natural options, and refreshingly reasonable mark ups. So far all was sounding a bit too good to be true. Where should we go for a drink first? There are loads of great pubs in Stoneybatter, including L. Mulligan Grocer for one of the best craft beer selections in the city, The Cobblestone for traditional Irish music, and Walshs which was voted best pub in Ireland at last year's Irish Restaurant Awards. Part of the reason for this (apart from the unfalteringly lovely staff) must be the price of the drinks - they sell sherry cask-aged Red Breast whiskey for €10 a measure, when it's more like €18 around town, and Aspall's cider for €5.80, when we've only ever seen it at €8+. Where should we sit? It's a really cosy, intimate room, with mostly two tops and some fours, but they will obviously move them together if there's more of you. We were probably at the worst table in front of the door so had an occasional blast of wind when people came in, but we booked late and were just happy to get in at all. If we have another summer like 2018, the one in the path of a breeze will be the one to bag. Otherwise we'd advise sitting as close to the pasta making action as you can get. What's good to eat? The format of the menu with nibbles, starters, pasta and secondi makes it way too easy to order all the food, but this is the only way to go if you want the full Grano experience (and you do). Portions aren't huge and prices very reasonable so you can get away with ordering from every section. From the nibbles we had the Capocollo ham cured in Primitivo wine, from a family friend's farm in Italy, which had incredible flavour, especially with the Calabrian red wine we were drinking. Marinated anchovies with frigatelli peppers, sourdough and tomato and basil cream were also demolished, and the nduja with crostini (which melts at your table in what looks like an oil diffuser) is the proper Calabrian real deal - which means super spicy. Enter with caution if you're heat-averse. If not you'll love it. From the starters, we had to go for Mamma Roma's stuffed artichoke special with caciocavallo cheese, which was as perfect as we'd hoped it would be. Another of Frisella de Farro (spelt rusk bread that's brushed with water to soften it and topped with cherry tomatoes, oregano, garlic and olive oil) was a bit too soggy for us, and they explained that it's been difficult to get the soakage level right - when it was harder they had people complaining that they were going to break a tooth. They're debating letting people brush their own water on at the table so they can determine their own level of softness, which we think is a great idea. For mains we obviously had to stick to pasta, but there are a couple of meat/fish dishes on there too. Only certain pastas are made in house, others need machinery and the space is too small, so they bring them over from Italy - look for the ones saying 'homemade' on the menu if you want to know what's what. One that is always made in house is the traditional Calabrian pasta fileja, made using a knitting needle. We had that night's special which was described as a cacio e pepe with artichoke and mint. It wasn't what we know as cacio e pepe, which is just made with pecornio cheese and loads of black pepper, but it was delicious nonetheless, and had a layer of slightly hardening cheese at the bottom that we took great pleasure in scraping off at the end. Another of Amatriciana with mezzamaniche pasta (imported), black pig guanciale (from the cheek), tomato sauce and pecorino was faultless, and if any dish was going to make us feel like we were eating in Roberto's Calabrian village this was it. So simple but with such explicitly excellent ingredients, there was practically no conversation while eating this. Continuing the pig fest they brought us a half portion of Italian cheeses with chutneys and a little bit of orangey fruit cake, which is surprisingly good in place of a cracker. We finished with tiramisu, which we thought was perfect except for needing more Marsala, until Roberto told us they don't put any in so that children can eat it too, and he has great memories of his mother making an alcohol free one for him and his siblings when they were small - it's hard to argue with that. What about the drinks? It's rare (although thankfully less so) to find restaurants in Dublin that think about their wine list as carefully as their food, and this is one of those places. Everything is Italian and most are organic, and the mark ups are on the low side in comparison to most places in the city which makes it pretty good value. We were recommended a red Cirò, one of Calabria's most famous wines made from the Gaglioppo grape, which was a bit like Nebbiolo - light and fresh but with good structure and soft tannins - and it was a perfect match for all of the tomatoes and cheese. They don't have dessert wines on the menu but they do have them so ask, and a white (or more like orange) one made from the grape Zibibbo (Muscat) was particularly good. And the service? Roberto is the ultimate host, and constantly has an eye on everybody whilst never being obtrusive. He happily doled out recommendations over the evening, all of which were spot on, and all around us echoed 'Ciao!' and 'Buona sera!' as customers (a lot of whom were Italian) came and left. All of the staff were lovely, and the whole place had a really laid back, neighbourhood vibe. The verdict? We were trying not to get our hopes up about Grano in case our instinct about it was wrong, but we can happily tell you it's as good as (if not better than) we hoped. Almost overnight this has become the place to go in Dublin for rustic Italian cooking and homemade pasta, and if they can keep these standards up it's going to be somewhere you'll need to book well in advance. We're always a bit wary when we hear a restaurant is importing all of their ingredients from another country, when we have so much fantastic produce on our door step, but it's really difficult to argue with food that tastes this good, and we've never tasted an Irish tomato with Calabrian flavour. We've already booked to go back. Grano 5 Norseman Court, Manor Street, Stoneybatter, Dublin 7 grano.ie New Openings & Discoveries More >>

Glovers Alley Fine dining returns to the Fitzwilliam Hotel Posted: 2 Apr 2018 Neighbourhood Neighborhood Name Address Restaurant Address Website Website Name Restaurant Info View the Listing >> Written by: Lisa Cope What’s the story? Unless you’ve been living under a rock (or following the wrong people on twitter) you’ve probably heard about Glovers Alley , the new fine dining restaurant in the space formerly occupied by Thornton’s in the Fitzwilliam Hotel . Headed up by Dubliner Andy McFadden, once the youngest Michelin starred chef in London, we don’t think a Dublin restaurant has ever gone as big on pre-opening PR, and they took a bit of flack over some pretty absurd language on their website (thankfully mostly gone) and the promises of delivering something Dublin has never seen before. Regardless of the slightly bumpy start, we think the city is in need of more high-end dining options and were glad to see one of the ' Murphia ' return home, so we went to check it out for ourselves. Where’s good for a drink beforehand? You’re right off Stephen’s Green so the options are endless. Presuming you’ll be in your Sunday best, the Horseshoe Bar in The Shelbourne is always good for pre-dinner/lunch bubbles, or La Ruelle wine bar is off Dawson Street. For cocktails, beer and rugby-player spotting, Lemon and Duke is close by too. What’s the room like? Not as pink as it looks in pictures. Very plush and clearly no expense spared when it came to decor. There are three main rows of seating, with a mix of banquettes and free-standing tables, and there’s a separate private dining area which was busy hosting a scarf launch/lunch on the day we were there. It feels modern but very comfortable, and we loved the lack of white tablecloths. Staff tend to hover in front of the bar which is slightly disconcerting, as you feel like you’re always being observed, but we’re not sure what the solution is to this. It’s the layout of the room, and there’s nowhere else for them to go. The upside is you won’t have to wave your hand around trying to get someone’s attention. What's good to eat? We would recommend the tasting menu, which felt fairly priced at €60 for lunch, considering there were three snacks, a lot of incredible bread, six courses, a pre-dessert and petit fours. There were twelve elements in total, and while we wouldn’t be spending €60 on lunch every week, it felt like good value. The first snack was disappointing – a parmesan gougère, which didn’t taste of much – but the following two were very good. Foie gras sandwiched between two crisp pieces of tuile, and more crispiness in the form of chicken skin topped with taramasalata and seaweed. Not a combination we would have put together but it all worked. The bread selection must be one of the best in town and we gluttonously tried it all. We’re still dreaming about the parmesan and black olive bun, which was like a savoury version of a cinnabon in the best possible way. Butter is from Abernethy and we had to restrain ourselves from eating it by the spoon. The tasting menu changes daily, but high points for us were curried cauliflower with crispy ham hock, and rabbit with carrots, grapes and tarragon. Rabbit came in the form of an incredibly tender, skilfully cooked loin (no mean feat for such a lean meat), a pastilla (deep-fried pastry) and a teeny tiny, totally delicious rabbit rack, which we didn’t even know was a thing. There were also a couple of brightly coloured splodges of sauce on the plate which didn’t really add anything and we felt unnecessarily complicated things. We were less keen on the brill with beetroot, cucumber and anchovy, the brill being the weakest part of the dish. The chewy, sweet beetroot, which had been dehydrated then rehydrated was the high point and we think they should start selling it in bags to go. A pre-dessert of cardamom panacotta with mandarin granita and Thai basil didn’t taste much of cardamom but was delicious nonetheless and nicely refreshing after the array of flavours that came before it. The main act of grapefruit, white chocolate and lime mascarpone was really beautiful, delicate but full of flavour, nicely balanced between freshness and sweetness. The dark chocolate, sesame caramel petit fours are another item we think they should sell on the side. Crazy good. What about the drinks? As you would imagine, the wine list is extensive and excellently curated. Margins are a bit on the high side but no more than we would expect in a restaurant pitched at this level. There’s a nice selection by the glass and the sommelier recommended some good pairings, including a pitch-perfect German Riesling from Emrich Schönleber , a dry Pedro-Ximenez called Dos Claveles from Spanish producer Toro Albalá , and a really cracking Mencia from Raul Perez, also Spanish. And the service? Very professional but a little stiff at times – lots of ‘Ma’am’ and ‘Sir’ – which is great if that’s what you’re in the mood for. We were very thankful for head waiter Bill, formerly manager at Bastible , who was a breath of fresh air in a slightly nervous feeling room, cracking jokes throughout lunch and generally being an excellent addition to the experience. The verdict? Glovers Alley put themselves in the firing line by talking a big game pre-opening (although we have it on authority that Andy McFadden had very little to do with this) and some critics have been only too happy to take a shot. It’s not perfect yet, a couple of dishes didn’t wow, and it would be nice to see them relax into things a bit more, but there is some very skilful cooking happening here, in an ultra-luxurious room, and we would think zero chance of a bad service experience with a 5-star floor team led by GM Ed Jolliffe (ex- Chapter One ). They're not planning on sitting still any time soon and we would predict that it’s only going to get better over the coming months as things settle down and they find their comfort zone. Glovers Alley 127/128 St. Stephen's Green, Dublin 2 gloversalley.ie New Openings & Discoveries More >>