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The Two Minute Review: Vice

What should we know about Vice?

There’s (yet) another new pizzeria in town. New-kid-on-the-block Vice has just soft-launched right round the corner from Merrion Square, very close to Trinity College, and we got in quick to bring you the early word. The schtick is pizza and chicken wings, with "elevated sourdough crusts", "sublime sauces" and "delectable free range wings". Owner Bobby Lawn thinks that pizza and wings are "destined to be enjoyed together", so he opened Vice to make the dream real.

What did you have?

There are twelve pizza options on the menu available in 12” or 16” with plenty of high-end quality ingredients like chilli-infused pineapple and toasted fennel powder bringing a premium touch to some familiar favourites. Another point of different with Vice - the finish on their crusts, which you can get in white sesame seed, black sesame seed, poppy seed, or 'everything bagel'.

We took the friendly staff’s recommendation and tried the already-popular 'Sweet Meat', with beautifully fruity hand-crushed tomato sauce, spicy salami and a great balance struck between chili and honey. Their 48-hour fermented sourdough base was light and airy and you can taste the time that's gone into making it. The poppyseed finish adds additional texture but prepare for seeds to fly everywhere - it's worth the mess.

Also on the menu are wings and tenders in five flavours - buffalo medium, buffalo hot, spiced barbecue, Korean gochujang and lemon pepper. We got the last option in tender form and while the flavour and crisp coating was A1, the chicken inside was just a bit dry - fewer, thicker pieces would go a long way. A buttermilk ranch dip was mild and creamy without being dense, but we wished we'd tried one of the spicier ones.

Why should I go?

With a seriously big downstairs seating area this is a good pick for groups, and with more than half the pizza menu meat-free we’re sure veggies will be interested too. A quality addition to Dublin's casual dining scene, ideal when you don't have a booking or don't have much time.


5 Merrion Street Lower, Dublin 2


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