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  • Where To Go For A Pre-Dinner Cocktail In Dublin

    As the city sprawls and restaurants - decent restaurants that is - open in the suburbs and outside of the vacuum that is town, we’ve rounded up our favourite places for pre-dinner cocktails throughout the city. Some of the list is made up of bars that we’re sending you to because of cocktail mastery, others because their views of the city are unparalleled and quite a few happen to be disguised by the restaurant out front or downstairs. You might never have realised they were even there. 9 Below, Stephen's Green There are only a handful of bars in the city where we would recommend sitting down for a martini, and this is one of them. If like so many others, ordering a martini looks to be a discernibly difficult task - vodka/gin, dry/dirty, olive/twist etc. - the guys at 9 Below will help you out. From the same people behind 37, House and The Oak, this bar is their (ultra) plush outlet, and with hidden library rooms and caved ceilings, it’s a pretty cool way to start, or end, an evening. Every minute detail has been poured over to create as sophisticated a bar experience as you’ll get in the city, right down to the glassware and the spikes on which your olives are presented (should you choose them). A must-visit, if you can get in. The VCC, Temple Bar Search for a hidden doorbell in Temple Bar and you’ll find the Vintage Cocktail Club . In the middle of the mania, the VCC has become a haven from which to drink and delight in some of the city’s most creative cocktail creations. If you can, book ahead. Inside, there’s a menu that would confound most given its density, but for us, the unpronounceable “Phyotica” is a great way to start your evening. Light, smooth but packing a punch for your first drink of the night, you can head to dinner with the perfect Chartreuse-induced buzz. The Gold Bar at Hang Dai, Camden St It’s no secret we’re pretty big fans of Hang Dai , with the disco chinese restaurant seeming to get a new lease of life recently. Last year it launched the Gold Bar upstairs, a cool, compact space that fits about 25 people between the terrace and the bar itself, and is staffed by some decidedly cool bartenders. Get a “Men with broken hearts” for an interesting aperitif and digestif liqueur mix that produces an unusual result. The Sitting Room at Delahunt, Camden Street Another quaint bar sits above Camden Street mainstay Delahunt . Removed from the noise of the street below, this is a quiet spot for a really, really good pre-dinner drink (and you don’t have to be eating downstairs in order to grab a table). You can’t go wrong with anything on the menu, but we’d recommend the simple “Cognac and Orange” to cleanse the palette for whatever deliciousness is to come after. And yes, that is “Delahunt” imprinted on the ice cube. Details, folks. Bar 1661, Smithfield Poitin, which is making a comeback if you haven’t heard, is the toast of Dave Mulligan's Bar 1661 off Capel street, and with Gillian Boyle at the helm, who was also behind the launch of Hang Dai’s Gold Bar, they’ve carved out a creative cocktail menu and brand with a niche spirit. International Poitin Day was last week, and they celebrated by launching eight new cocktails, of which we think the “Brother Hubbard” with vanilla butter, Irish apple brandy, regal rose vermouth and rose hip sounds particularly appealing. The Baths, Clontarf A pretty slick addition to the Clontarf food and drink scene, and Dublin’s answer to the Sydney Icebergs club, The Baths has had an interesting go of it since reopening last year, and while it seems it's yet to find its feet food wise, we’d definitely recommend stopping by for a drink, if only for the €2.4m refurb surroundings. Ambient and with views for days, we’d recommend getting the “Baths Basil” as you watch the world go by outside. Even if you’re not sticking around for food, it’s a must visit if you find yourself in the vicinity. Upstairs Bar at Kinara Kitchen, Ranelagh Where the food scene in Ranelagh is sprawling and it boasts some great bars, cocktail-wise it’s a little short on offerings. The award winning “secret” bar upstairs in Kinara Kitchen has been around for a number of years, mastering the classics with a singular Pakistani flair, and if it were up to us, everyone would have to try the “Maharini” or the “Rested El Presidente” at least once. Whether you’re heading downstairs for some of the best Eastern food in the city, to Thai Nightmarket or critics’ favourite Host , it's definitely worth a pre-dinner visit. The Rooftop at The Marker Easily the city’s best view, if only for how cool Grand Canal Dock looks lit up at night-time, The Marker Hotel 's rooftop is a pre-dinner drink worth getting into a lift for. If you’re heading to Charlotte Quay across the dock or down to Osteria Lucio , you would be seriously remiss to skip a drink here beforehand. Their G&T menu is nice and robust - if expensive - so while you’re there, you might as well indulge in a Monkey 47. Not stocked in every bar in the city but something to be tried at least once, if only to enquire if it tastes any different to those gins with less than 47 botanicals in them. Just to note: during the winter season, the rooftop opens only for Friday and Saturday evening service. The Sidecar at The Westbury Given the abundance of busy restaurants in The Westbury’s vicinity, it’s nice to visit a place removed from the bustle of Grafton Street before you venture out into the thick of it. The Sidecar is idyllic in this sense, a serene step away from it all, with a great cocktail list to boot. One of the hotel’s most recent renovations, the 1920's style bar is probably our favourite place in the city for a cocktail, with a smokey "Mezcal Smash” that's as yet unbeatable. Circa, Terenure Before Circa arrived, you would have been hard-pressed to find a decent cocktail anywhere in Terenure, but amongst a few things the guys have gotten right here is their cocktail offering. IF you can nab a seat at the bar for some pre-dinner sipping, you’d do well to order the Circa Rebujito, because basil and bergamot make everything that comes after tastier. While you’re there, you may as well eat, but if they're fully booked you've also got Green Man Wines down the road and Craft is a 15 minute walk away.

  • Where To Eat Pies In Dublin

    A few things are apparent from looking at our Instagram feed over the past few weeks - there’s no slow-down with new Dublin restaurant openings, lots of spots are ramping up for Sunday openings in December ( Cirillo’s and Bread 4 1, we see you), and pies are very much en-vogue and on menus. Here are our picks for pies we want to eat this winter, and where to find them. Potager, Skerries Potager has been delighting customers and critics since opening during the summer with their 5-course tasting menus, and this pie, stuffed with layers of partridge, foie gras, and sprouts is basically a very fancy Sunday dinner wrapped in buttery pastry. Spitalfields, The Coombe At €42, this cock-a-leekie pie from Spitalfields represents a serious investment in both funds and time. To be fair, it is designed for two to share (we hear it would even stretch to three) so it’s best viewed as an investment in your relationship/friendship. Couple goals with a lattice lid. Brother Hubbard South, Harrington Street For pie purists, a pot pie with just a lid of pastry may not be kosher, but this version from Brother Hubbard South might change their minds. Basque-style chicken with chorizo and red pepper is the perfect spicy filling to go with flaky, buttery pastry. Osteria Lucio, Grand Canal Dock This pie from Osteria Lucio caught our eye because of the unusual cooking method. Caramelised onion is wrapped in puff pastry, and loaded up with a ragu of Irish lamb, and red peppers. Sounds like ideal winter fodder. The Old Spot, Bath Avenue One of our go-to spots for comfort food with an edge, The Old Spot ’s menu often features warming pies over autumn and winter. This braised beef pithivier served with buttery mash and carrots is just the kind of food we’d love to eat at home, but could never do half as well. The Legal Eagle, Chancery Place From Dublin’s home of great food with a 70's twist, The Legal Eagle ’s steak and ale pie with mushy marrowfat peas, chips, and gravy is not a meal for the faint-hearted. Team with a Kinnegar Scraggy Bay IPA and maybe don’t plan to do too much heavy-lifting for the rest of the day. One Pico, Molesworth Street Described as a quail and foie gras wellington on One Pico ’s menu, this did prompt a bit of discussion here in ATF as to whether it counts as a pie, but we’re happy to report that it did pass the “Pastry.Meat. Repeat” test and is therefore making it onto the list. Plus foie gras coupled with pastry is actual goals. Chapter One, Parnell Square Is foie gras in a pie now a thing? If so it's a thing we can get behind. Chapter One ’s winter menu traditionally includes a pithivier and this year it’s packed full of duck, foie gras, and bacon. Incredibly rich, but incredibly moreish. Richmond, Portobello Aside from their usual (and very tempting) á la carte menu, Richmond 's €42 Tuesday tasting menu is often used as an opportunity for the chefs to experiment with new dishes like this rustic rabbit and ham pie, which looks like a great way to try the lesser seen rabbit if you want to ease yourself in slowly. Circa, Terenure One for the non-meat eaters on the menu in Circa in Terenure. The potato, leek, truffle and durrus pithivier also features on the Christmas menu, so ample opportunity to indulge. Bistro One, Foxrock When we saw this pie on chef Rory Shannon’s Instagram feed, it was still in development but is due to hit the menu of Bistro One this week. Old-school suet pastry, packed with curried pheasant sounds like the kind of food we didn’t know we needed in our lives until now. Also, phwoar...

  • 5 Toasties We Want To Eat In Dublin This Week

    The world feels a bit mad at the moment. Our neighbours across the Irish Sea have lost the run of themselves altogether with elections and Brexit, Mariah Carey is advertising crisps , and a certain well-heeled Dublin street has been rebranded for Christmas in a move that has caused division, not just fractions. Don’t lose hope though, in a world gone mad there are certain things that will remain consistent; dropped toast will always landed buttered-side down, your mother will always tell you not to be wasting your money on her at Christmas, and Dublin will always be the home of the toasted sandwich, and this week these five are making us feel all gooey inside. 1) The Ham and Brie Toastie from Container Coffee If you haven’t been to Container Coffee on Thomas St this toastie packed with thick slices of proper ham, brie, caramelised onion, and token rocket - gotta get those greens - should be all the molten motivation you need to get down there. The filling to bread ratio here is perfect, and the thickness of that ham should be recorded by the National Standards Authority of Ireland. 2) Crab Toastie from Minetta Deli In a departure from the classic cheddar and ham, this toastie from Minetta Deli with spicy, zesty crab meat and gruyère cheese is one of their best sellers and we can see why. It’s basically lots of our favourite things in one perfect, sourdoughy package. 3) Chorizo and Manchego Toastie from BiBi’s Café BiBi’s in Dublin 8 covers all the café basics with scones and eggy options, but the Chorizo and Manchego toastie from the beautifully titled “Lunchier Dishes” menu has caught our eye. Served with chili mayo it looks like exactly what we need on these colder afternoons. 4) Cashew Nut Butter and Blackberry Toastie from Laine My Love Our love of cheese is well documented so the fact that we’ve included a cheese-free toastie on our list should probably tell you something. Laine My Love ’s breakfast offering with sourdough, cashew butter, and blackberry preserve is a sweet, salty, carby hug. 5) Turkey and Chorizo Melt from 147 Deli We’re not being dramatic, but if you haven’t been to 147 Deli on Parnell Street you’ve pretty much been living a half life. Rectify that soon, as their sandwiches and rolls are lovingly filled with a range of house-cooked meats and imaginative toppings, and alongside menu regulars the weekly special is pretty much guaranteed to be an epic creation, like last week's turkey and chorizo melt with extra chorizo crispy bits.

  • This Week's Critic Reviews

    In this week's Irish Independent Katy McGuinness got momentarily trapped in Bullet Duck and Dumplings on Mary Street Little when the door jammed shut, and spends most of the review reminiscing about a time the same thing happened during floods in Galway. The food gets a brief look in towards the end, with har gau prawn dumplings "excellent", but siu mau ones "too sweet and solid". Pork and prawn wonton soup had a "good" broth but suffered from "bland" dumplings, and egg-fried rice topped with crisp pork belly and de-boned barbecue duck was "substantial and tasty, good cold weather food". She says she likes Bullet's "low-key charm", giving it 8/10 for food and 9/10 for value. Read her review here . In the Business Post (which has just rebranded from the Sunday Business Post) Gillian Nelis checks out new Stepaside restaurant Woodruff , whose chef Simon Williams she previously reviewed (and liked) when he was at The Gables in Foxrock. She calls it another "neighbourhood restaurant going above and beyond when it comes to sourcing great Irish produce" and says they left with "happy faces all round". Gambas with avocado and chipotle mayo were "beauties", roasted squash with gnocchi, ricotta and a salt-based celeriac puree was "faultless", and an Andarl farm pork cutlet disappeared fast, as did the cavolo nero, parsnip puree, pink fir potatoes and crispy crackling it came with. Irish game risotto was "less successful" with tough meat and under seasoned barley, but bread and butter pudding for dessert was "very good", while white chocolate mousse with beetroot meringue was "inspired". Read her review here . In the Sunday Times Niall Toner and his dining partner were the only people in newly opened Port House Cava on Camden Street one lunchtime. The food sounds pretty good, particularly the Puntillas (deep-fried baby squid), canelon (something like lamb canneloni), and Canarian potatoes, but once again the Toner 3/5 can't be budged. Read his review here . In the Irish Times Catherine Cleary thinks The Cheese Press in Ennistymon (yes there's somewhere else to eat in the Co. Clare town apart from Little Fox ) is serving the best toastie in Ireland - cue a stampede to Clare. The toastie in question was made with sourdough bread from the local bakery and raw Coolattin cheddar, and she says "putting this level of farmhouse cheese and properly fermented bread in a toastie outside of hipster brunch zones is a revolutionary act." A fried organic egg came with "perfectly spiced" chorizo and homemade sundried tomato paste, and a vegan plate came with "great" olives, freshly made hummus, "nicely pickled" artichoke hearts and "juicy" dolmades. She says The Cheese Press is "as much about creating community as it is about serving the country’s best cheese toastie", and gives them 9/10. Read her review here . In the Irish Daily Mail Tom Doorley paid a visit to O'Mahony's in Watergrasshill , of which word was filtering out about via the local "bush telegraph". He calls it "ambitious ... unpretentious" and "wildly enthusiastic", with a "reassuringly short" menu. Lamb "arancini" with potato and pearl barley tasted "intensely" of Irish stew, crisp cauliflower in a spicy red sauce with sesame seeds and kimchi was savoury and spicy, and a Ballyhoura mushroom wellington was "pleasant" but could have been heavier on the mushroom. Mackerel was "impeccable" with an accompanying crab cake tasting "thoroughly of crab", and sides were "the antithesis of pub vegetables". Pear tatin was buttery and not too sweet, coming with "fabulous" liquorice ice-cream, and he notes the "terrific" selection of drivers' drinks. (Review not currently online) In the Irish Examiner Joe McNamee was living it large at Gregan's Castle in Clare, with an extensive tasting menu and some of the best lines of the weekend. A scallop in a sweet, peppery consommé with puffed rice, crisp brussel sprout leaves, mandarin and ginger was one of his dishes of the year: "myriad strands in sublime, singular expression", and a celeriac tart with salt-cooked egg yolk, black and white truffles and three cornered leek had "complex, hefty flavours yet resolves with zen-like clarity." He says he's usually wary of "certain tropes of classical French cooking", particularly the overuse of things like truffle and foie gras - "their impact too often a shallow veneer of ‘luxury’ masking homogenised, sickly-rich and ultimately bland fare for corpulent old buffers of gouty torpor and vermillion visage," and as that won't be topped we'll leave it there. He gives them 9/10 for food and value, and you can read his review here . Finally in the Sunday Independent Lucinda O'Sullivan was trying Dingle's "hot and happening" new tapas restaurant Solas , where the "one and only Nevin Maguire" was dining alongside her. She reckons chef Nick Foley's six years at Bentley's in London show in the food, with popcorn squid "perfect", dillisk and wild mushroom croquettes "instant tummy-pleasers", and octopus carpaccio "one of the stars of the show". Pork belly was "succulent and silky", while "perfectly pink" lamb chops were "heaven", and she adored their 24-month Manchego cheese with crispbread, quince, olives and gherkins, saying she can see why Solas has been "reeling in the locals and tourists alike for its great buzz and food". (Review not currently online) More next week.

  • Ex-Etto Chef Opens Volpe Nera In Blackrock

    Ex- Etto head chef Barry Sun has opened his own restaurant in Blackrock. Volpe Nera is described as "a cosy, friendly neighbourhood place", with the name meaning black fox in Italian - a nod to the restaurant being half way between Blackrock and Foxrock. The 50-seater restaurant is spread over two floors, and features counter dining at the bar as well as regular tables There's a similar Mediterranean influence to Etto , with dishes like ricotta malfatti with onion squash and slow cooked egg yolk, deer carpaccio with artichokes, pickled pear and juniper, and yellow fin tuna with fermented radish and black sesame. Snacks include guanciale, Iberico pork and olive croquettes and Brandy Bay oysters, with mains including roast pheasant with braised endive, pickled quince and polenta, and that côte de boeuf to share also looks like it's going to be a menu fixture. We think it's going to go particularly well with their 'beef dripping hash potatoes'. Barry Sun came to Ireland in 2002 when he was 19, to improve his English, and began working as a kitchen porter. He worked his way up through Dylan McGrath's Mint in Ranelagh, Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud, Bon Appetit, Cleaver East and l'Ecrivain, before ending up as head chef in eternally popular Etto, where he was named chef of the year in 2018 at the RAI awards . The same year Etto won best restaurant in Dublin and in Ireland. Since he moved on to open Volpe Nera a few months ago, ex-Luna head chef Vish Sumputh has taken over the kitchen at Etto, and the food appears to be as good as ever. Volpe Nera is now open for lunch and dinner from Wednesday to Saturday, and for long lunches on Sunday from 14:00 - 19:00. Currently online reservations aren't available so email info@volpenera.ie to book. Volpe Nera 22 Newtown Park, Blackrock, Co. Dublin Wed – Thu 17:00 – 21:30. Fri – Sat 12:30 – 14:30, 19:30 – 22:00. Sun 14:00 - 19:00 www.volpenera.ie

  • This Week's Critic Reviews

    Wondering how to get a foot firmly on the Dublin food map? Get yourself a visit from an international pop icon. We bet Blackrock Indian Ruchii couldn't believe their luck when Cher decided to climb the stairs to their dining room above a pub two weeks ago (and liked it so much she tried to go back the next night but they were full). After one lacklustre review from Ernie Whalley earlier this year (who compared it to a UK curry house), Tom Doorley paid a post-Cher visit for the Irish Daily Mail and calls it "divine". He sidestepped the 'Cher menu' (for realz, you can eat what she ate), loving a platter of starters including "succulent" tandoori chicken, "stunningly good" crispy, spicy cauliflower, and "revelatory" shredded pork in a sweet and sour tomato sauce. Kashmiri rogan josh was the best he's ever tasted (another "revelation"), and coconut marinated prawns with curry leaves and mustard seeds was "delicious". He says there's "so much to like about Ruchii", not least the "general sense of inventiveness and fun on the plate combined with great seriousness in the kitchen". If it's good enough for the Goddess of Pop... (Review not currently online) In the Sunday Independent another critic is bowled over by Mamó in Howth, where Lucinda O'Sullivan praises the "dream team in a dream location". She says rather than the neighbourhood restaurant they've pitched it as, it's more likely to be "a hot destination where the locals will be battling for a seat", and says she'd cross Dublin Bay for those cod chips (confit potato topped with taramasalata) alone. Crisp sourdough with vadouvan butter made her "weak at the knees", salt-baked celeriac with pickled girolles, orange and red onion was "most gorgeous", and brill with cauliflower, capers and brown shrimp was "moist and juicy". Comeragh mountain lamb was "mouth-wateringly tender", and she says they felt smug as "multifarious hipsters and the great unbooked were politely turned away". The poor hipsters just can't catch a break. (Review not currently online) In the Irish Independent Katy McGuinness found simple things done well at Osteria Lucio , with the exception of a very small, very expensive arancino at €7. Handmade spaghetti with Irish cockles, squid, courgette and scallions was "quite perfect", but tagliatelle with a ragu of duck, spinach and pecorino was "dull", lacking in meaty richness. Tagliata (below) was "flavoursome" and came with a satisfyingly crunchy cabbage salad, and a salsiccia pizza was was good as she remembered from home deliveries. She says the high point was "a warm welcome, excellent hand-made pasta and proper, professional service" and gives them 8/10 for food, ambience and value. Read her review here . In the Sunday Business Post Gillian Nelis is the second critic in the past few weeks to discover Riba in Stillorgan, which goes to show how effective a bit of social media self-promotion can be. She says based on the list of Irish producers they work with they were doing well before she even arrived, but a fritto misto with squid, prawns and cod with aioli and a green pepper, soy and chilli sauce was a great start. Flavoursome Sika venison from Wicklow came with vegetables that were "a joy" - "smooth as silk" celeriac, and cavolo nero that she'd eat a mountain of - and everything was Irish. Seafood tonnarelli with cockles, mussels, squid and prawns was "simple, and all the better for it", and an apple and blackberry crumble with zabaglione and ice-cream was her kind of crumble. She says she'll be back to spend her own money there because of the "very good cooking, the warm service and the commitment to supporting local growers and suppliers." Read her review here . In the Irish Examiner Leslie Williams was on the beer at Rascal's taproom and pizzeria in Inchicore, all of which he thought were "excellent". Strangely the wood-fired pizza oven was low on wood so they were using gas, but he said it made "little difference as the bases had excellent charring and bubbling". Their three pizzas had "well-thought out flavour combinations" which allowed the bases to shine, but the winner was the "Blue Belle" with mozzarella, pear, Cashel Blue cheese, candied walnuts and rocket. They also enjoyed the "Meat Me In Inchicore" and "Here Comes The Hot Stepper", although kale on the latter didn't work - would it ever on a pizza? A chocolate brownie for dessert was "wonderfully gooey and sticky" and he says go and support your local brewery. Read his review here . In the Sunday Times Niall Toner has done another two-for-one, with the headline inferring it's a review of Loose Canon , but half the review given over to a meal at The Seafood café in Temple Bar. Both get the ST seal of approval, but the Toner three stars (out of five) remains unmoved - although he says he was tempted to give a rare four. Read that here . Finally in the Irish Times Catherine Cleary is eating in another museum - this time the Bistro in the Guggenheim in Bilbao - and it was so good she went two nights in a row (clearly more organised than Cher). She calls it "a hidden treat", just like the hummus that was revealed when they lifted up a fish head to be spread on warm bread. A salad of "tangy, sweet, slippery, Spanish tomatoes" was so good she was still thinking of it weeks later, tomato gazpacho with cubes of pickled watermelon was "life-enhancing", and her "creamy rice" had subtle saffron and "sweet, juicy clams". Caramelised sheep curd for dessert tasted like "a tangy meringue melded with a cloud", raspberry ice-cream with violet meringue was "summer in one spoonful", and coffee on the terrace overlooking the river was the icing on the cake. She gives it 9.5/10 calling it "food culture at its finest" and you can read her review here . More next week.

  • Bookings For Allta Wine Bar Open Today

    Allta , the much anticipated wine bar from chef Niall Davidson officially opens next Wednesday, with bookings going live today. Earlier this week we offered ATF readers the first chance to eat there at this week's soft launch, with 50% off the menu, and so many of you emailed for seats that we managed to crash their system - oops. 'Allta' is the Irish for wild, and Niall who used to own Irish restaurant Nuala in London, along with head chef Hugh Higgins (ex-Luna) and sous chef Christine Walsh (ex-Loam in Galway) have spent the last few months travelling around the country finding producers to work with, and testing recipes, fermenting and curing in a Terenure test kitchen. The menu features housemade charcuterie, snacks like Croman oysters with rhubarb vinegar, and small plates like crispy skate wing with a seaweed cream. There's also lots of pasta like chicken liver scarpinocc (which looks to be a must order going off reports from last night), spider crab bigoli, and smoked Gubbeen capellatti with grilled maitake broth. Every ingredient used bar olive oil, pasta flour and white chocolate is sourced in Ireland. They're calling it a wine bar first and foremost, and sommelier Ian Fitzpatrick, who came from Adare Manor, has put together a list of 100 wines, with 30 by the glass, as well as sake, cocktails, beer and non-alcoholic options. Niall plans to open a less casual sister restaurant to Allta next year, with very few seats, a tasting menu and no choice. Hands up if you're excited for that one. Allta will take a certain amount of bookings, but generally the long table in the middle of the restaurant, made from an Irish elm tree, will be reserved for walk ins - although you can book it for groups. There's also a private dining room downstairs which will be available for bookings from the 1st of December. At the moment they're going to open from 5pm - midnight, Tuesday - Saturday, with the full menu available until 10pm and snacks from 12pm - midnight. Bookings for Allta until the end of December are now live here . Allta Setanta Place, Dublin 2 Tuesday - Saturday 17:00 - 00:00 www.allta.ie

  • The Best Food Events Left In 2019

    It's wet, it's cold, it's gross. Stay indoors and eat fried chicken and dumplings. It's the only logical thing to do. Lucky for us the food purveyors of the city are always looking out for us and have come up with lots of ways for us to stay dry and full this November. Fried Chicken And Natural Wine at Bastible When: Sunday 24th November, 14:00 - sell out What: Bastible are throwing a Sunday shindig with Morita fried chicken and Cooldaniel cheese sandwiches, Gut Oggau wines by the glass, and ice-cream sandwiches made using Olly's Farm honey. One of their chefs is doing the music, and it's walk in only until they sell out. Clear the diary. Chimac Gives Us The Gift Of Brunch When: Every Sunday What: An excuse to eat fried chicken for brunch - as if you needed another one. Chimac 's new Sunday brunch menu includes chicken and waffles, a chicken breakfast burger, and their version of avocado toast - "soy marinated eggs, pickled red onion and fresh smashed avocado served on a high protein toast substitute (aka 100% Irish, free-range, twice fried chicken breast)". Yes to all of the above. Join the Aungier Street queue. Ciaran Sweeney At The Commons When: Sat 30th November and Sun 1st December What: Ex- Forest & Marcy head chef Ciaran Sweeney is popping up at the new Commons at Moli on St Stephen's Green at the end of the month to host two tasting dinners. The new café/restaurant from Domini and Peaches Kemp opened in the beautiful Georgian building, home to the Museum of Literature, last month. The 5-course menu is being billed as "a celebration of Ciaran's modern Irish cooking", and is priced at €65. A specially chosen selection of wines and non-alcoholic home-made drinks will also be available to purchase on the evening, and as it's a set menu dietary requirements or allergies can't be accommodated. Book by emailing info@thecommonsmoli.ie. Double 8 Dumplings Are Coming To Ranelagh When: Various dates in December What: Bray's handmade dumpling shop Double 8 is popping up in Lock 6 in Ranelagh for a few Fridays and Saturdays in December bringing their pork and cabbage soup dumplings, spice bag chicken dumplings and sea salt and banoffee versions to Dublin 6. They're also promising a seasonal menu (turkey dumplings?) as well as Boyne Brewhouse beers and cans of Ramona. They'll be there on Friday 6th, Friday 13th, Friday 20th, Saturday 21st and Sunday 22nd December and it's walk in only. Fumbally Christmas Market When: Friday 13th - Sunday 15th December. What: The Fumbally are holding a Christmas market in the middle of December featuring local food producers like Scéal, Fumbally Ferments and White Mausu. There's going to be a craft and design section upstairs, and on Sunday the café will be filled with even more stalls. Friday 13:00 - 20:00, Saturday and Sunday 13:00 - 18:00.

  • We Went To Meet The Makers In Wicklow

    We love the city but sometimes we need to escape in search of fresh air and head space, so were very interested to hear about a new food and drink tour that picks you up in Dublin, ferries you around Wicklow to meet some of the county's best food and drink producers, and drops you back to the city that evening full of cheese, whiskey and fruit wine. Sounds like our dream day, so we went off to check it out... What is Meet The Makers Wicklow? It's a collaboration between Kilruddery House and Gardens , Wicklow Way Wines , Wicklow Wolf beer and Powerscourt Distillery , led by Mia Tobin from Brewery Hops , to bring you on a day of food and drink tasting without the hassle of arranging individual appointments - or having to drive yourself home afterwards, because who wants to be the designated driver after visits to a winery, brewery and distillery. Major buzzkill. The tour collects and drops you back to Nassau Street in Dublin city centre, so the only thing you need to do is get yourself to the Kilkenny Shop, maybe slotting in a pitstop en route to Bread 41 or Tiller + Grain for coffee and cruffins (we did this, it's always a good idea). It's fully guided by Mia throughout the day, with commentary en route to Wicklow and between stops. Where do you go on the tour? The first stop is Kilruddery House where owner Fionnuala Ardee takes you on a tour of the house which dates back to the 17th century, then down along the grounds and into the walled kitchen gardens and poly-tunnels, to pick tomatoes, salad leaves, herbs and edible flowers for a mid-morning snack. Once the baskets been filled up it's back up to the courtyard for homemade sausage rolls, salad, brownies, marshmallows, tea and coffee, and if it's a Saturday you might get a chance to have a wander around their weekly farmer's/craft/vintage market. After Kilruddery House it's back on the bus and onto Wicklow Way Wines , whose award-winning Móinéir fruit wines are made from strawberries, raspberries and blackberries. Winemaker Brett Stephenson takes the group on a tour of the winery, showing them how the fruit is pressed, fermented and aged, before heading upstairs for a cheese, chocolate and wine tasting. Once you've had your fill of fruit wine it's time to head to Wicklow Wolf brewery around the corner. They've just moved here from Bray so it's all brand spanking new, including the lovely wooden and corrugated iron tasting room where you'll get to taste through their current range of beers, and see some of the hops they've grown themselves in the Wicklow mountains - a work in progress. You also get a walk through of the brewery, beer in hand, then it's back into the tasting room for a beer of your choice and pizza from Firehouse Bakery in Delgany. The next and final stop is Powerscourt Distillery , which is a new distillery on the grounds of Powerscourt Estate which opened in March of this year. After being taken into a mini-cinema for a video about the distillery, who's behind it and their multi-award-winning distiller, you'll get a tour of the distillery and hear how whiskey is made, before being taken into the barrel room to see how it's aged, and learn about 'whiskey chocolate' - a type of sediment that builds up on the outside of the barrels from whiskey seeping out - we weren't quite up for tasting that one. Once the technical stuff is done, it's time for the fun part. The tasting. You'll head upstairs to one of the private tasting rooms for a tasting of their three Fercullen whiskeys, which retail for between €40 and €90, paired with cheeses, meats and crackers. After that you'll be rolled onto the bus full and happy, for a final drive past the sugarloaf, before heading back for Dublin. What time does it leave and return to Dublin? The mini-bus leaves from across from the Kilkenny Shop on Nassau Street at 09:30 and will drop you back there at 17:30, after which you can head home full and happy, or keep the day of piggery going by heading for dinner and drinks. You're already in town sure. What's the damage? €150, which includes transport to and from Dublin, and all of your food and drink for the day. Stuck for Christmas present ideas? Sorted. How do I book? Tours for select dates can be booked here , or private tours can also be arranged if you can round up a group, or convince your boss to fund a team-building day out. Gift vouchers are also available. For more information click the link below. www.meetthemakerswicklow.ie

  • 5 Things We Want To Eat This Week

    Winter is hard. It’s cold, there’s been a winter's worth of rain already, and it’s just too dark - bring on 2020 and the end to this clock-changing nonsense. While it’s probably too early to yearn for tidings of comfort and joy, we’re very much in need of some comfort right now, and think these five things will give us that food hug to get us through these darker days. 1) The Smoked Bacon And Marmalade Sandwich From Velvet Café We love sweet and salty combos, but this one made us pause for thought when it come up on our Insta feed. We’ve never thought of putting bacon and marmalade together but Velvet Café in Portmarnock have, and now we can think about nothing else. 2) The Secret Saucy Burger From The Saucy Cow One of our favourite things to do on a cold weekend has long been to wander around Eatyard and heat up as we eat. With the sad loss of the Bernard Shaw, Eatyard has had to relocate and they’ll be open again from 15th November at Crossguns Bridge, between Phibsboro and Glasnevin. As ever, they’ll have a mix of vendors catering to lots of different tastes, but this vegan take on a Southern-fried chicken burger from The Saucy Cow is calling us to the Northside. Loaded with pickles, garlic sauce, and their secret burger sauce, this looks like the best kind of hot mess. 3) Ham Hock Croquettes With Charred Pineapple From The Woollen Mills There’s nowhere nicer to be on a cold, rainy day than indoors - ideally by a big window looking out at people trying to keep their umbrellas upright. The Woollen Mills is prime people-watching real estate and these ham hock croquettes with celeriac slaw, cider-soaked sultanas, charred pineapple,and chorizo mayo will make you happy to give the cold shoulder to anyone who tries to tell you that Dublin has hit peak croquette. 4) Slow-cooked Oxtail With Polenta From Sprezzatura The appeal of comfort food is very straight-forward: it’s food we could cook reasonably well ourselves if we had the motivation and time to do so. Could we take a piece of oxtail and roast it slowly until it comes away in sticky strings? Probably. Could we make polenta that’s creamy and comforting and the perfect foil to the fatty meat? Most likely. Are we going to order Sprezzatura ’s new oxtail and polenta dish with a side of potato focaccia for mopping? Definitely. 5) Toasted Marshmallow Fluff Hot Chocolate from Three Twenty Ice-Cream Lab While we rarely miss the opportunity to eat ice-cream, whatever the weather, the team at Three Twenty Ice-Cream Lab have made it that bit easier to opt for a creamy treat without sustained teeth-chattering. Made with Valhrona chocolate and topped with toasted marshmallow fluff, this not only looks delicious, but it’s practically an act of charity if it means those guys don’t have to stand over mixers of liquid nitrogen all winter.

  • Your Alternative Christmas Party List - Part 2

    Find part 1 of our alternative Christmas party list here ... Try as you might you can’t hide from the fact that there's less than seven weeks until Christmas (cue screaming) and the venue recommendation requests have been sliding into our DMs recently. If you haven’t booked your office Christmas party yet, or are planning to head out with a gang of friends but don’t know where to go, now’s the time to start seriously thinking about it before you’re left with nothing but a plate of dry turkey in the function room of a dodgy hotel - or Milano's. If you love food, but dread Christmas gatherings for the aforementioned reasons, here are some alternative party venues. Vegetarian Festive Spooks with Phantasmagoria This is definitely not your average Christmas gathering. Sinéad Baily Kelly and Deirdre Young of creative agency H&G Creations have run Christmas dining experiences across Dublin for the past seven years, utilising spaces that are often left vacant. This year there’s a distinctly 18th century Georgian feel to Phantasmagoria (you know - a sequence of real or imaginary images like those experienced in a dream) taking place in Orlagh Country House in Rathfarnham on December 5th, 6th, and 7th. Slice are behind the 3-course vegetarian menu (the menu and décor are designed with sustainability at the forefront), it’s BYOB, and you’ll be on the edge of your seat listening to your host Spooky Beuor telling the tale of the spirits who call the grounds home. Tickets are €65 each and available here . All The Vegan Food And Wine At Beo Kitchen And Wine Bar Eating a plant-based diet can mean limited options at the best of times, but Christmas in particular seems to relegate even the most versatile vegan to nut roast or gnocchi. Beo Wine Bar + Kitchen is fully vegan, offer lots of options for groups, and the organic/natural wine list will help to keep hangovers at bay. It’s not a big spot so better suited to smaller groups. Full details and menu options are on www.beokitchen.ie . Teppanyaki at Tippenyaki Seated at a table hosted by chef who put on a show as they cooks, you’ll be highly entertained and well fed at Tippenyaki in Rathmines. The menu features sushi and hot Japanese dishes, and you may even get a chance to flex your own culinary skills at the grill. Details are on www.tippenyaki.ie . Share The Love (And Food) At Brother Hubbard North Christmas is all about sharing and Brother Hubbard North is giving you an opportunity to do just that with up to 199 of your closest friends or colleagues. Shared mezze starters, a selection of large-plate mains, and a pretty dreamy dessert mezze featuring brown sugar pavlova with poached pear and pomegranate are on the menu, and if dinner isn’t what you’re after, they’re also doing Christmas breakfast and brunch parties. Info is on www.brotherhubbard.ie . Katsu and Karaoke at Ukiyo Bar We all know how this goes- nobody wants to go to a karaoke bar but you book it anyway and, before you know it, you can’t get the mic off of Sharon in Accounts and someone is crying while swaying back and forth to My Heart Will Go On. Ukiyo is great for groups, serves lovely Asian food, is really central, and once you’re all karaoke-d out you can dance on with the DJ until 02:30. See www.ukiyobar.com for more info. Private Dining at Airfield Estate Airfield Estate hosts a range of Christmas activities including crafting workshops, and visits with the man in red (Santa, not Elton John) that are great for the whole family, but if you want to spend some quality time with your work family, the estate’s Overends Kitchen is offering private dining for groups of 50-120 people at a cost of €59 each. The menu is quite traditional, featuring turkey with all the extras you’d expect, but is served sharing style to encourage collegiate conversation. If you’re looking for activities for a smaller group, we think wine on (or near) the deck, or a baking class with resident chef Shane Smith fit the bill. Deets on www.airfield.ie Lunch or Dinner at Shelbourne Social Dylan McGrath’s Shelbourne Social is a year-round twinkly oasis in D4 so we’re looking forward to seeing how extra they go for Christmas. It’s a big spot, seating over 100 diners over 2 floors, so we think it’s the ideal place for wining, dining and cocktailing clients that you want to impress. The three-course dinner is priced at €68 but we’re tempted by the €45 lunch menu featuring a sugar pit pork chop that’s making us feel very merry and bright. Info and booking details on www.shelbournesocial.ie . City Centre Dinner at The Woollen Mills When arranging a Christmas party, it’s important to pick a venue that’s convenient to get to, but more importantly has good transport links when everyone’s heading home at the end of the night. The Woollen Mills , right at the Ha’penny Bridge, fits the bill for those grabbing a bus, tram, train, or taxi. Yes, your friends may be getting an overnight stay in a country hotel with the tab picked up by their employers, but you can feel smug knowing you don’t have to traipse to some off-ramp hotel accommodation to eat turkey that’s been sitting over a bain marie for seven hours. If you like a side of schnitzel with your schadenfraude, this one from The Woollen Mills, served with sprouts, parsnips, cranberry relish, and gravy, is the way to do it. Information on www.thewoollenmills.com .

  • The 25 Hottest Restaurants in Dublin - November

    Our bi-monthly list features the most talked about restaurants in Dublin right now, and things are hotting up so much we've had to increase it from 20 to 25 this month. This is where the reviewers are reviewing, the instagrammers are instagramming, and where getting a Saturday (or any) night table can take military planning, in alphabetical order... 3 Leaves Where: Blackrock Market The tiny Indian in Blackrock exploded in 2018 with zero PR attached - just word of very satisfied mouths. Soon it was being called "outstanding" by Tom Doorley and "a revelation" by Katy McGuinness and it was firmly on the Dublin food map. Expect very tasty, very good value food, and the fact that you can BYOB is another reason it's difficult to get a table in. Read our 3 Leaves once over here . Alma Where: Portobello The Argentinean café opened in mid-January with slick imagery and a very different menu to what's currently available on the food scene, and seems to have had a queue since day one. You have definitely seen the dulce de leche pancakes on social media and have probably stood on the SRC waiting for a table. Catherine Cleary called it "very special", while Katy McGuinness said it's a "small restaurant with a big personality".. Read our Alma once over here . Bastible Where: South Circular Road Always a cornerstone of the Dublin dining scene, Bastible has been catapulted back into the limelight with the news that ex-Noma chef Cúán Greene is back in Dublin and their new head chef. Catherine Cleary was swiftly through the door, calling it "the start of something truly bloody exciting". Expect a stampede. Check out Bastible's hunger-inducing Instagram feed here . Bread 41 Where: Pearse Street Did cruffins even exist before Bread 41 opened last September? What did we have as a 'treat' breakfast? What did food bloggers pull apart for insta story videos? It's fair to say that Real Bread fanatic Eoin Cluskey's Pearse Street bakery burst onto the scene and shows no signs of slowing down. Watch the sad faces pile up around 10am when they find out that everything's gone and the next bake isn't till 11. Check out Bread 41 here . Chimac Where: Aungier Street Korean Fried Chicken fever hit the capital at the start of summer when Chimac finally opened after a year of rumours. Queues down Aungier Street became the norm, and for the first week they couldn't keep chicken in stock for more than a few hours. Katy McGuinness in the Irish Independent praised their commitment to free range chicken giving the food 9/10, and they've just added brunch. Read more our Chimac once over here . Circa Where: Terenure The new neighbourhood restaurant from four industry friends won a Michelin Bib Gourmand within six months of opening, and has given diners across the city reason to get on a bus to Terenure. Leslie Williams in the Examiner saying Circa's "future looks bright", and Ernie Whalley in the Sunday Times calling chef Gareth Naughton's cooking "stylish with inspirational touches". Read more about Circa here . Clanbrassil House Where: Clanbrassil Street It's always a bit of a tie between who's getting more love - OG Bastible (above) or newer sibling Clanbrassil House, but between Cúán Green heading up the kitchen in Bastible and Clanbrassil head chef Gráinne O'Keeffe being named "best chef under 30" at this year's Food & Wine awards, we'd say they're pretty even right now. Read more about Clanbrassil House here . Crudo Where: Sandymount Dunne & Crescenzi 2.0 is from the owners' two sons, who've given the Sandymount site a serious face lift. They burst onto Instagram in January with multiple images of food that made us want to run for the Dart, and as we know, provide the excellent images and the critics will come. So far Lucinda O'Sullivan , Tom Doorley and Ernie Whalley have given it their stamp of approval and we'd say there's more to come. Check out Crudo here . Etto Where: Merrion Row Etto has been dream dining since opening mid-recession in 2013. One of the most highly rated, consistent restaurants in the city, no one was surprised to see them take home best restaurant in Ireland at last year's Restaurant Awards . Katy McGuinness reviewed them for a second time last February giving out a very rare 10/10, and saying she wouldn't change a single thing about it. Read more about Etto here . Fish Shop Benburb Street Where: Smithfield Simple seafood, sherry and natural wines have been drawing the crowds to Smithfield since day one, and it's one of the food & drink industry's favourite hang outs . Catherine Cleary likened it to "a world class tapas bar", Katy McGuinness called it "perfection", and their Monday Wine Club is without doubt the best value place to drink quality wine in the whole of Dublin. Champagne for €7.50 a glass anyone? Read more about Fish Shop Benburb St here . Frank's Where: Camden Street When Frank's butcher's shop on Camden Street became vacant, the owners of Delahunt a few doors up decided to take it over and turn it into a wine bar, leaving the butcher's frontage as is. Catherine Cleary in the Irish Times called it her "new favourite restaurant", and Aoife Carrigy in Food & Wine compared it to a cocoon, calling the food "top-class". Read our Frank's once over here . Grano Where: Stoneybatter We don't remember a new Italian restaurant ever having the impact Grano had in just a couple of months of being open. By January this year they were booking out weeks in advance, and on the two occasions we ate there, countless people were turned away all evening. Catherine Cleary called it "terrific", and Lucinda O'Sullivan said if she lived locally she'd be there every night. Read our Grano once over here . Host Where: Ranelagh Host opened in Ranelagh in 2017 and was like a corridor of London transported into a street in need. Soon the neighbourhood had a new favourite hangout for handmade pasta, sharing steak and great wine, and more than one critic complained about not being able to get a table. Host is still killing it in the popularity stakes and their fans frequently travel across the city to eat there. Read our Host once over here . Le Perroquet (New) Where: Leeson Street Nick Munier and chef Chris Fulham's French "bar and comptoir" have been whipping the Champagne-loving ladies of D4 into a frenzy over their small plates, and it's gone down well with the critics too. Catherine Cleary in the Irish Times called the food "truly enjoyable", and Lucinda O'Sullivan in the Sunday Independent said she "couldn't get enough" of it. Check out Le Perroquet here . Liath Where: Blackrock When Damien Grey split from Heron & Grey business partner Andrew Heron late last year it was a big shock, but Grey revamped and reopened as 'Liath', and reviews soon confirmed it was better than ever. All eyes were on the Michelin awards last month to see if they'd regain the star they effectively gave back on closing the restaurant, and of course they did. Read our Liath once over here . Little Mike's Where: Mount Merrion We didn't think it was possible for Michael's in Mount Merrion to be overshadowed, until little brother and wine bar Little Mike's opened a few doors up. It's left a clean sweep of critics swooning ( us included ), with Ernie Whalley describing the seafood small plates as full of sincerity and generosity, and Tom Doorley calling it "a delight". The counter seats with a view of the kitchen are the ones in demand, and the wine experience is at the same level as the food. Read more about Little Mike's here . Mamó (New) Where: Howth The reaction to Mamó would make anyone think it was Howth's first ever restaurant, and their snack take on fish and chips - taramasalata on confit potato - has already reached cult status. Tom Doorley in the Irish Daily Mail loved the "jewel-like explosions of flavour", while Catherine Cleary in the Irish Times called it "a breath of fresh sea air." Read our Mamó once over here . Mister S (New) Where: Camden Street When the guys from Featherblade said they were bringing real open-fire barbecue to Camden Street we were cautiously optimistic because of everything that's come in that genre before, but Mister S surpassed all expectations. Leslie Williams in the Irish Examiner called it "one of the best openings of 2019", we had similar sentiments, and wait times of two hours on Saturday night have been reported. Read our Mister S once over here . Potager Where: Skerries There was a lot of excitement in the industry when it was announced in January that ex-Chapter One head chef Cathal Leonard was taking over the old Red Bank in Skerries. He and partner Sarah Ryan opened the doors in June and unusually Catherine Cleary from the Irish Times was the first in. She called the evening tasting menu "the best money you'll spend on food in Dublin", and after eating there we'd be inclined to agree. Read our Potager once over here . Spitalfields (New) Where: Dublin 8 The revamped pub in Dublin 8, taken over by the owner's of The Pig's Ear, hit the ground running, with SIX critics in the door within a couple of weeks of opening. Catherine Cleary in the Irish Times called the beef cheek and bone marrow parker house roll "one of the best beef dishes in town", Niall Toner in the Sunday Times called it "lovingly crafted comfort food", and the place is hopping. Read more about Spitalfields here . Sprezzatura (New) Where: Grantham Street The story on Dublin's newest pasta place where every plate costs less than €10 has been one of our most read this year so far, and while only one critic has been in so far, our timelines have been flooded with diners partaking in cacio e pepe and nduja 'tyres' with an Irish ingredient twist. Tom Doorley said they're serving the best ragu he's found in Ireland, which is quite the compliment. Read more about Sprezzatura here . The Greenhouse Where: Dawson Street Both Irish and international food critics have cried for years that the The Greenhouse was a two-Michelin starred restaurant with a one-star rating, and last month in London no one seemed more visibly relieved than head chef Mickael Viljanen when Michelin finally made the dream real. It's now one of only two two-starred restaurants in the city and the team seems to be stronger than ever. Read more about The Greenhouse here . Two Pups Where: Francis Street Casually going about their breakfast, lunch and brunch business since 2016, Two Pups is still one of the most sought after brunch spots in Dublin, and if you go on weekends prepare to queue. They're single-handedly responsible for one of the world's greatest pairings - avocado and garlic peanut butter, and the French toast with plum compote and white chocolate reached legendary status. Read more about Two Pups here . Uno Mas Where: Aungier Street The second, Spanish-influenced opening from the guys behind Etto almost kept us waiting as long as Gertrude, but from the day they announced they were opening at the end of November there's been a steady stream of critics, bloggers and just breathing humans coming out awestruck at the gildas, the mussels, the flan. It also has some of the best bar seating in town and some is saved for walk-ins. Jackpot. Read more about Uno Mas here . Variety Jones Where: Thomas Street The first solo opening from chef Keelan Higgs has given the Liberties in Dublin 8 its first Michelin star, and Dublin's only new one for 2019. They opened just before Christmas last year, got the fire going in the hearth at the back and started cooking, and pretty soon reports were coming in about some of the most exciting cooking in the city. It was hard to get a table before Michelin took notice, now it's almost impossible - but keep trying. Read our Variety Jones once over here . Ones to watch... - Chef Niall Davidson 's Allta (Irish for 'wild'), opens next week, and it's already a given that this will be on the next list - Amy Austin , the new wine bar from 777 and ex-Luna owner John Farrell is taking an ungodly amount of time to open - Press Up's next opening, MacKenzies, opens soon on Hanover Quay. Not sure that's going to make any hot lists but in case you wanted to know - Little Pyg are talking a big talk about their "Michelin guide pizza" coming to Powerscourt Townhouse this week. Of course a new restaurant can't be in the Michelin guide, but the chef/partner behind it has quite the rep in Naples, where his pizzeria is. Whether this one follows suit remains to be seen... - Little Forest, the new Italian in Blackrock from the guys behind Forest Avenue and Forest & Marcy is delayed due to building issues, but we're eagerly awaiting news of an opening date

  • This Week's Critic Reviews

    This week's reviews are a pretty good illustration of the general divide between the capital and everywhere else right now, with Dublin operating on the frisson of fresh pasta, French small plates and temples to tea and cakes, and everywhere else having a sole focus on Irish produce and three course dinners. Novelty vs substance? Innovation vs sitting still? We won't get into a Twitter spat about it... In the Irish Independent Katy McGuinness took a real-life French person to Le Perroquet , to size it up for, well, 'French-ness'. They won a point for having legit French music on the stéréo, another for a vintage lollipop stand, and a few more for dishes like "properly tasty" beef tartare with sour cream and sheep's cheese, and "full of flavour" scallops with cauliflower and pancetta. Roast leg of lamb with seaweed potatoes and pickled pear had a "deliciously sticky" jus, but a cassoulet divided them due to a lack of the traditional sausage or duck - the second time a reviewer has passed comment on those meat-free beans. Parmesan Aligot (the cheesy potato of your dreams) lacked the "essential stringy pull", and the 'Cinema' dessert with popcorn, caramel and ice-cream had "unwelcome" cola jellies. She says she'd like to know a bit more about the provenance of the food, but she enjoyed Le Perroquet's "unpretentious ways". The French friend gets the last word, calling it "good modern French food", and they get 8/10 for food and value. Read her review here . In the Irish Daily Mail Tom Doorley discovers "a temple to real tea" in Dun Laoghaire with "splendid oriental cakes", at recently opened Nunki Tea House . It's wasn't all cake and tea though (but it was a lengthy diatribe on why stale, plastic-filled teabags are the actual devil). Gyozas were among the best he's tasted: "delicate, thin wrappers and proper savoury fillings", Kung Pao chicken was "stickily, savourily, saltily good", and "crunchy, salty" deep-fried green beans concluded a "lunchtime feast". He calls it "excellent value for money", saying he suspects they'll be regulars. (Review not currently online) For the last of this week's Dublin reviews Niall Toner in the Sunday Times hated El Grito on Mountjoy Square, but a late night trip to new pasta place Sprezzatura made everything right with the world again. Perfectly cooked pasta trumps dry, tired tacos for the record. Read his review(s) here . In the Irish Times Catherine Cleary thinks the whole country needs to visit Farmgate Café in Cork's English market, saying it "sets a standard for cooking any Irish restaurant should be proud to follow." Freshly shucked oysters from a stall downstairs with shallot vinegar, lemon, soda bread and Glenilen butter was "one of the best Irish food experiences money can buy, while lamb stew was "like it should be", with "generous chunks of gnarly soft brown meat". Steamed potatoes had "such an exuberance of flouriness" it was "almost comical", and an apple tart to finish was "ground zero for all apple tarts". She says nothing innovative but everything important is happening here, giving it 9/10 and calling it "a perfect lunch". Read her review here . In the Sunday Business Post there's similar patriotic rhapsodising from Gillian Nelis who was at Brunels in Newcastle, Co. Down. She was pleasantly shocked to find someone rocking the goat's cheese and beetroot boat, serving her "gorgeously creamy" goats' cheese mousse with a pumpkin gel, toasted pecans and peppery mustard frill leaves. She doesn't think she's ever tasted a smoother parfait than their one of smoked duck liver with spiced plums, walnuts and balsamic, and slow-roast Mourne lamb shoulder and belly with organic carrots and dukkah was "superb" and "magic". Braised shoulder of venison with celeriac and mushroom purée (above) was "packed with flavour" but they can hold the roasted coffee beans next time, and in an epic feat of customer plamasing it came with two types of potatoes - champ and roasties. They enjoyed their desserts of espresso crème brûlée and "top-drawer" Armagh apple crumble, and she says she couldn’t fault anything they'd eaten, calling the service "flawless". Read her review here . In the Irish Examiner Joe McNamee was delighted at the "vibrant yet intimate" Pigalle Bar & Kitchen , which has had a few iterations but according to Joe has finally found one with staying power. He says head chef Mark Ahern has a "serious commitment to sourcing the very best of local produce", like his "plump fleshy" mussels in a creamy sauce of seaweed and Little Fawn IPA, with nduja pork salume. Chunky, fresh monkfish fritters came with squid ink aioli and a "cracking" in-house shichimi chilli pepper condiment, "tasty" battered cauliflower came with "tender, carmelised" Crown Prince squash, pickled cauliflower and sautéed kale, and his Carrigcleena duck had "already superb flavours" maximised with some dry-hanging, before being cooked medium-rare and served with pumpkin, kale, and a puff pastry tarte tatin (phwoar). The wine list was "tidy", the service had "genuinely friendly charm", and he ends by saying: "Ahern’s cooking is smashing: consistently superb produce is always honoured and delivered with a maturity and humility, his adroit hand and keen palate forever seeking an elemental purity of flavour over any need to showcase his own ego", calling the food "as authentic a strand of contemporary modern Irish cuisine as any out there." Read his review here . Finally in the Sunday Independent, Lucinda O'Sullivan was living it up at Kim and Kayne's honeymoon destination - Castlemartyr Resort in Cork. She says through the boom and the bust head chef Kevin Burke has been delivering "stunning food", and a terrine of rabbit, ham hock and foie gras was "top notch", while Union Hall smoked salmon with beetroot and radish was "fabulous". Skeaghnore duck with parsnip purée and blackberry port jus was "wonderful", and her all time favourite thing to order, sole, was lightly chargrilled, with ratte potatoes, leek, mussels and lemon oil. Their signature dessert of Castlemartyr honey and camomile parfait, with honeycomb and milk purée was "superb", and she thought the sub-€150 bill was reasonable. (Review not currently online) More next week.

  • This Week's Critic Reviews

    All Dublin again this week, bar a trip to Lough Erne (*sits back and waits for capital-induced outrage to ensue*), and some happy, medium happy, and ever so slightly ripped-off feeling reviewers doing the rounds. In the Irish Daily Mail Tom Doorley is first in with his verdict on new pasta place Sprezzatura , and proclaims they're serving the best ragu he's found in Ireland. The meaty oxtail sauce came with "perfectly al dente" ribbons of pasta, "impeccable" gnocchi came with sage butter, and penne with nduja and Toonsbridge ricotta was "a simple triumph". He was surprised to find an Irish tomato salad "jumping with sheer flavour", and Toonsbridge straciatella was "rich, creamy and almost buttery". He calls Sprezzatura "a breath of fresh air, not just in terms of sustainability and local produce, but also in putting it up to the so-called trattorias of Ireland" - meow, but also, fair - who serve "rubbish pasta with an Irish accent". He reckons it's as close to Bologna as you'll find in Ireland, and says he hopes the low prices (and presumably tight margins) can be sustained, so get in there and support them. (Review not currently online, read more about Sprezzatura here ). In the Sunday Independent Lucinda O'Sullivan liked new Dublin 8 addition Spitalfields , but had issue with some of the prices like Gillian Nelis a few weeks ago, peppering the review with shocked sounding dialogue like "How much did you say Biddy? In a pub? Are they mad?" You get the drift. They stuck to the small plates (how very 2019) and thought the yellow-tail tuna fillets with burnt orange and soy were "delicious". Half an avocado with crab meat and trout caviar was also "delicious" but she took umbrage with the €13 price tag, and Poulard clams with nduja were "tasty" but "again a tad petite" for €14. Coffee and orange creme caramel for dessert was "divine", and she calls Spitalfields "very good, Biddy, but pricey". (Review not currently online) In the Irish Times Catherine Cleary is way more impressed with the Commons at Moli than Katy McGuinness was a few weeks ago, calling it "a new city favourite". She says it's "a different level" to what's happening in sister cafés Hatch and Sons , and her two favourites dishes were "properly delicious" roasted carrots with radicchio leaves, dukkah and a yoghurt-thick sauce, and the "beef tea" with spiced beef in a clear broth with carrots and horseradish crème fraîche. She says the Commons is still finding its voice, but "a few more tweaks and we’ve got a classic on our hands". She gives them 8.5/10 calling the provenance "fab", and you can read the full review here . In the Irish Independent Katy McGuinness seems lukewarm about Frank's on Camden Street, saying it feels "just a little too cool for school". They liked a dish of purple sprouting broccoli, hazelnut, parmesan and anchovies, but pumpkin with kale and curd was "nut hugely flavoursome" with "bland" curd. 'Salsify, walnut, pear' had flavours that were subtle ("perhaps too much"), but they did have a favourite in the form of the "most flavoursome" dish, quail, plum and chanterelles, although they would have liked some bread to mop up the tasty sauce. Not much comment about a dessert of chocolate, banana and peanut, other than that there was "good" ganache, and she wasn't a fan of an onion marmalade-smeared potato farl that came with a piece of 16 month old comté. She gives Frank's 7/10 for food, ambience and value and you can read her review here . In the Irish Examiner it's another lukewarm-ish review from Leslie Williams of newly opened Cava on Camden Street from The Port House group. Apart from a complaint about the lack of hot padrón peppers, most of it was "as you would expect", with highlights including torreznos (crunchy fried pork belly pieces), morcilla with fried quail's egg, and jamon croquettas (but he does recommend side-stepping the chicken and spinach versions), and the best thing thing they ate were courgettes stuffed with chorizo and cheese in a light batter served in a ciabatta bun. Chorizo in wine was not worth the €8.50 price tag, but pastel de natas for dessert were "excellent", and he calls it "a great addition to this busy restaurant-filled street". (Review not currently online but should be soon here ) In the Sunday Business Post Gillian Nelis ended up at at FX Buckleys in Monkstown after a failed attempt to eat at what sounds like Kerb in Foxrock, blaming the wrong opening hours on their website (now fixed). She says she's still dreaming about the kidneys in a bacon and mushroom sauce, and both a fillet steak and a ribeye on the bone with grilled bone marrow, shallot purée and watercress and were things of "meaty beauty" and "full of flavour". Beef dripping chips and creamed spinach were "top notch", but a chocolate and orange mousse with hazelnut cream for dessert was "terrible" with a "grainy" mousse, "cheap tasting chocolate" and no flavour of orange, but despite the disappointing end they left happy. Read her review here . Finally in the Sunday Times Niall Toner took a trip outside Dublin to Catalina in the Lough Erne resort in Eniskillen. He was suitably impressed with chef Noel McMeel's obsessive local sourcing, resulting in an eel dish of ecstasy, and in a Sunday Indo style development, the food pictures look like the critics own, rather than the usual polished sort we've come to expect from the ST. Tough times out there... Read his review here .

  • Some Things We Ate This Week

    All the cheese and all the meat at a charity event in Loam , Galway, after a spell-binding day one of Food on the Edge (if you work with food or just consider it a very important part of your life and you're not at this every year what are you doing!) The meat and cheese were from Sheridan's and we were fawning over a massive hunk of Delice de Bourgogne and the Spanish cecina - like Bresaola but 100 times better than any we've had in recent memory. Earthy, funky, floral, does beef-based charcuterie get better than this? - Lisa Sausage rolls from Pie Man in Temple Bar (left - pork, black pudding and pear) and Greenville Deli (pork, pancetta and fennel) near Tara Street - research for our definitive list of the best sausage rolls in Dublin. It's a tough job but someone's gotta do it. Both good, but Pie Man is riding high at the moment - Helen A date and apple scone from Avoca in Malahide - also research for our definitive scone list. Always large, always well baked with a good amount of filling, but 45p extra for jam is taking the proverbial. Pro tip - leave the takeaway section and head into the restaurant to score all the free jam you can load on before running back out hoping no one's seen you - Lisa Porridge from Gertrude . We've long been fans of Gertrude’s porridge with strawberries and homemade Nutella so were sad to see it go, but it’s been replaced with this very autumnal version featuring plum compote, whipped yogurt, cinnamon sugar, and hazelnuts. It’s tasty, but we're hoping the Nutella makes a return - Helen Fish fingers at Kai , Galway. Food on the Edge also provided a long overdue opportunity to visit Kai, and these fish fingers make a mockery of all others. Bright, flaky fish in a crisp breadcrumb coating with tartare sauce meant many hands were reaching into this bowl - Lisa Crab on toast at Klaw Temple Bar. A Klaw classic and the crab is always fresh, but €16 felt punchy - Lisa The Kimcheese burger in Chimac . It was worth braving the waiting list on a rainy bank holiday Friday for this chicken and kimchi fix. Loaded with Ssamjang and cheddar sauce, gochujang mayo, and kimchi it packed just the punch. The prosecco frosé is also the only acceptable way to drink prosecco in 2019 - Helen A custardo from Bread 41 . While popping in for weekend cruffins and coffee one of these crumbly, flaky, creamy custard tarts was shoved into our hands, and it's the nicest we've had in Dublin to date. All hail the custardo - Lisa Chargrilled lamb with blackberries and elderberries at the Sunday Lunch Roots pop up at McNally Family Farm . OMG levels of flavour and swooning over this one. Read the full Roots once over here .

  • Where To Meet Your Tinder Date For Food

    The dating scene in Dublin has changed. Firstly, it’s now called “dating”, and secondly, the source of most of these dates seems to be app-based. While we here in ATF HQ are more likely to swipe right on a pizza, we do know some of the best spots for meeting the potential new person in your life. We have some base criteria. The food must be great so if the date is awful, at least you’re left feeling somewhat satisfied, the prices must be reasonable to avoid any awkwardness when it comes to splitting the bill (nobody wants to pay for half of a stranger’s fillet steak), decent alcohol options are a must, and it needs to be easily accessible so you can get out of there if things go awry. The "I haven't been on a date for a while" date You’ve taken some you-time and now you’re ready to get back out there. It’s going to be tough to pull yourself away from Netflix but heading somewhere new and chilled will ease you back in. Where to go: Meet your date near Camden Street and stroll down to Mister S for some chats while you wait for a table. What to eat: The smoked Angus short rib and the brown butter and miso roasties. If things go well, share the salted caramel Bubble Pudding. If things don’t go well, order it anyway, but refuse to share. The "maybe I should have used a more recent profile picture" date We all have our favourite photos with that great light that exist forever as social media profile pics as if we have escaped the ageing process. Yours is from 2003 when you spent a summer tanned and hungry on a J1 in the States, but that’s fine - your date will love you for you. Eventually. Where to go: Dim lights and loud music are your friends here. Head to Hang Dai on Camden Street Lower. What to eat: The côte de boeuf for two - it’s never too early to establish if a potential boyf or girlf can behave themselves when it comes to sharing food. If things go well and you’re ready to commit, maybe now’s the time to book a table for the following week and pre-order the whole duck in advance? The "I don't really fancy them but I hope I make a friend" date You’ve gone through all of their profile pics numerous times, and while they’re not 100% your type, you’ve been messaging back and forth for a while and this is definitely a person you want to get to know, even if it doesn’t lead to anything romantic. Where to go: Chimac , Aungier Street. because friends who eat Korean chicken together are the best kind of friends. What to eat: The Kimcheese burger. It’s messy, you’ll get your hands covered in sauce, but your new bestie won’t care. The "I'm here for the belly rubs" date You swiped right because they have a dog in their profile picture and that’s pretty much 90% of what you look for in a future spouse. If you’re clever, you’ll be able to engineer a date location that combines great food with the ability for them to bring the pooch along. Where to go: The bar of The Old Spot on Bath Avenue. What to eat: It’s you, your date, and the dog; opt for the huge roast every Sunday for that instant family feel. The "I've just broken up with my ex and can't go to any of 'our' places" date This is a tough one. You’ve been part of an established couple and have lots of spots where you both go regularly but you’re not a couple anymore and you’re not ready to be seen there with someone else, or worse - bump in to your ex and their new partner. The adult thing to do would be to sit down together with a map and a red marker and agree who gets where but, until then, stick with somewhere new that neither of you have been before, and hope for the best. Where to go: Still pretty new, Le Perroquet on Upper Leeson Street is likely to be unclaimed territory. Get there before your ex does. What to eat: The menu is French-themed but there’s lots of choice between small plates and larger dishes so you can feel out our dates food preferences and decide if you want to take this any further. Go for the duck croquettes and the savoury French toast, and save room for a French/Irish cheeseboard. The "fake it till you make it" date You’re not feeling confident. You’ve been down this road before, and are feeling a little delicate from the knocks that dating has thrown at you. You need to get dressed-up and get a cocktail in your hand pronto. Where to go: Peruke and Periwig on Dawson Street. It’s beautiful inside and out, just like you. What to eat: Stick with small plates like the patatas bravas or pork belly, and ask the staff to pair the cocktails so decision making is at a minimum. The "this is my third tinder date this week" date Despite starting out eager and sliding in to more DMs than Rebekah Vardy, the law of diminishing returns is quickly becoming evident and you’re getting through first dates at a rate of knots. You can’t keep meeting, or eating, at this rate, so need to keep it light. Where to go: Pang on Kevin St. Lower. It’s casual, affordable, and ideal for a light meal where you want to avoid alcohol. What to eat: Bánh mì- a Vietnamese sandwich loaded with spiced meat or tofu and pickled veg. Don’t forget to add a side of the yellow curry lentils - it’s one of the best things to eat in Dublin and a steal at €3. The "I'm pretty sure I'm going to be catfished" date It’s all going well, maybe a little too well. Your prospective date is perfect but there’s a little niggle at the back of your head wondering if it’s all too good to be true. You want to meet them, but you think there’s a chance that they’re going to bail while you’re on the bus. Where to go: Anywhere on our Where To Eat When You’re Dining Solo guide would fit the bill here but we’d start with Loose Canon . Worst case scenario, you’re left alone surrounded by cheese. What to eat: Cheese. All the cheese. The "I'm double-booked" date Dates are very like the 46a. You wait ages for one that inevitably disappears off the screen when it's one minute away, and then two come along together. Hey, you’re a busy person and it can be difficult to fit it all in so, if you’re in the enviable position of managing to book yourself two dates in one day, brunch is the best way to start the eating without peaking too early. Where to go: Head for San Lorenzo’s on South Great George’s Street. What to eat: The Coco Pops French Toast will keep you going until dinner. Plus, if date number two turns out to be disappointing and you need to cut it short, at least you’ve already had dessert today. The "my date's a fussy eater" date Nope. Not happening. Block and get yourself a take-away. Where to go: Nowhere. What to eat: Whatever you fancy. Add a tub of decent ice-cream while you’re at it.

  • 5 Things We Want To Eat This Week

    We don’t want to alarm you, but there’s approximately 90 days left in this decade. Just let that sink in for a minute. 2019 is hurtling past us and we’ve barely eaten any Halloween-appropriate food yet, but let that panic dissipate. We’ve pulled together a list of five things you can eat in Dublin this week that will help you ring in the seasonal change, and make you forget that we’re six months away from summer. 1) Barmbrack From Brother Hubbard North If there’s anything we love more than a spicy, fruity cake, it’s a spicy, fruity cake in miniature. This one from Brother Hubbard North is adorable and the perfect size to keep you going right through Samhain. You won’t find a ring, but you will find a whiskey buttercream, which is obviously better. 2) Pumpkin Risotto From Delahunt Poor pumpkin sometimes gets a bad rap in Ireland, where we tend to just see the huge, tasteless varieties used for carving, but it's one of our all time favourite vegetables. This week we have our eyes on this pumpkin risotto from Delahunt on Camden Street who are using sage and hazelnuts to take it to the next level. 3) Apple Tart Tatin From Chapter One Nothing is more evocative of Halloween than a good game of “bobbing for apples”. Thanks to Chapter One , you can now bob for those apples between buttery layers of pastry and caramel. The puff pastry is spiced, and served with a brown butter ice-cream. Sounds frightfully good. 4) Pumpkin Cappellacci From Host There was never going to be a list on ATF featuring Halloween-appropriate food without mention of the handmade pumpkin-stuffed cappellacci with sage from Host , was there? Not on our watch. 5) Pumpkin Bread With Maple Butter From Laine, My Love We can always count on Laine, My Love to bring the big guns and this year one of their many pumpkin based treats is this pumpkin bread with maple salted butter. Beats toast and jam any day. *BONUS* Something we want to drink While we don’t normally feature drinks in Five Things We Want to Eat, a pumpkin spice latte wouldn’t raise any eyebrows so we think a pumpkin beer deserves the same treatment. We’re big fans of independent Irish breweries and Trouble Brewing ’s special pumpkin beer is sold at various bars throughout Dublin, including The Legal Eagle .

  • This Week's Critic Reviews

    Barely a bad word this week from Dublin to Dingle - with the exception of some stringy beef and watery cauliflower, but all was forgiven. Two critics gush about seaside-situated Mamó this weekend. In the Irish Dail Mail Tom Doorley hopes they never take the "delightful" cod chip (confit potato with taramasalata) off the menu, saying he could have eaten "vast plates" of them. A starter of tarragon gnocchi with king oyster and shiitake mushrooms was "silky and delicate", while another of seared bonito, avocado, sesame and yuzu was "simpler but not less lovely". He thought that in comparison to the "jewel-like explosions of flavour" in the snacks and starters, the main courses showed "a reluctance to mix things up", but "commendably so." Black pollack with romesco, charred courgette and razor clams had sharpness, sweetness and salinity, while pork belly with sobrassada and coco de paimpol beans (the bean of the moment) had "exquisitely tender" meat and a deeply savoury broth. Blackberry parfait with crunchie like shards of Howth honey "tasted properly of itself" (another phrase for the list ), and he calls it "an excellent meal", while also thinking that the kitchen is only getting into its stride, and the really dazzling stuff is still to come. (Review not currently online) It sounds like Niall Toner from the Sunday Times was there within a day or two of Tom as they had an almost identical meal. He claims the clams with drinkable olive oil, garlic and chargrilled toast made him so emotional he knocked over his glass of wine, and heaps similar praise on the tarragon gnocchi, brill with romesco, charred courgette and razor clams and that blackberry parfait. He says it's the best restaurant in Howth and worth the outing wherever you live (and we agree ). Read his review here . In the Sunday Business Post Gillian Nelis says the Andarl pork tomahawk at Mister S "will blow your mind" if you grew up with an Irish mammy who incinerated pork chops - "Who knew it could taste this good?" Gambas in a bisque butter on flatbread had "an incredible amount of flavour", the smoked Angus shortrib was another example of "great cooking" and the brown butter and miso roasties were "peak potato". The salted caramel bubble pudding for dessert was too rich for her, but another of strawberries, elderflower, sponge and yoghurt was "great". She says it makes her weep to think of the money people are paying for mediocre food in Dublin when you can eat this well for €50 a head including drinks (Amen to that), and that they're dolling out "superb food, great value, a really warm welcome from the young staff and a buzzing atmosphere". Read the full review here . Read our Mister S once over here . In the Irish Times Catherine Cleary is heaping yet more praise on a new opening - this time Spitalfields in Dublin 8, summing it up with one of our favourite lines of the weekend: "the leap from a packet of dry-roasted peanuts ripped from the cardboard strip beside the till (if you’re lucky) to an €18 bar snack of grilled bread, Perle Imperial caviar and sour cream is audacious." She says she rarely eats meat these days, but the "less is better" beef dish of cheek and bone marrow Parker House roll is "the best in town", while a brother with shittake mushrooms, sweetcorn and an egg yolk was "a miso laced bowl of warmth". A juicy fillet of slip sole with grapes, potted brown shrimp and rainbow radishes was jazzy, Crown Prince pumpkin wedges with cooked burrata (controversial) and dukkah was "as satisfying as meat", and the only disappointment was some watery roast cauliflower. A hazelnut and chocolate mille-feuille for two was "a Mannings Bakery close-of-day scale shoebox of a portion with hazelnut and chocolate creams piped between layers of freshly baked pastry", and she gives them 9/10, calling it "a Dublin pub with deliciousness squared." Read the full review here . In the Irish Independent Katy McGuinness was trying to coax out an overdue baby (not hers) with a meal at Pickle on Camden Street. It sounds like they thought the amount of food rather than the spiciness would do the job as this was a feast and a half, but she says they took enough home for a substantial lunch the next day. She calls the food "delicious, considered, distinctive", like the sharing chaat ki rehdi - a pick-and-mix of vegetarian street-food dishes - with deep-fried kale leaves topped with coconut and green chilli yoghurt, semolina 'bubbles' (pani poori) filled with potatoes, pomegranate and mint and coriander-infused spiced water, and aloo tikki chaat - potato cakes served with chickpeas, sweet yoghurt and date and tamarind chutney. Some of the other dishes in the procession included a Khatti fish curry with stone bass, onion, green chilli, tomato, preserved lemon, fresh coriander and house-made lime pickle; farmer's butter chicken with fenugreek, ginger, green chilli and cardamom in a tomato sauce with garlic, coriander and onion; a lamb and bone marrow curry complete with a piece of bone full of marrow to be sucked out, and a slow-cooked black lentil dahl - "the ultimate comfort food". Desserts were "a revelation" and she gives them 9/10 for food, value and ambience. Read the full review (and get extremely hungry) here . In the Sunday Independent Lucinda O'Sullivan was in Kinsale at newly Michelin-starred Bastion , reminiscing about all the restaurants who've come before. She calls it "classic Michelin French-fine dining territory, with exquisitely prepared elegant food". The eight-course tasting menu featured dishes including a whole carrot with crumble and Velvet Cloud yoghurt, roasted cod with Jerusalem artichoke purée, Iberico ham and apple matchsticks, and a "superb" rabbit and foie gras roulade with golden raisins, Sauternes and violet mustard. She "wasn't wild" about some "stringy" beef fillet but the accompanying pickled girolles, candied hazelnuts, shallots and bay oil were "to die for". Dessert of French toast came with "mouth-watering" Frangelico-soaked medjool dates, salted caramel ice-cream and mascarpone, and as it often the case she ends without a wrapping up or final thought, but it all sounds lovely. (Review not currently online) Finally in the Irish Examiner Joe McNamee was in Dingle at another recently Michelin-awarded Land to Sea - this time for a Bib Gourmand. A seafood appetiser plate of Dingle crab, home-smoked salmon, Glenbeigh Mussels and a Cromane oyster showed that the chef was "sensible enough to allow quality produce do the heavy lifting", and a charcuterie plate, with everything from saucisson sec to chorizo made in-house, was the best he's had in any Irish restaurant. A butternut squash and Cashel Blue pithivier was "deeply comforting", and John Dory with roasted lemon and caper butter was "excellent produce, superbly cooked". He says Land to Sea are serving "excellent food delivered with earnest, utterly heartwarming sincerity and an honesty of endeavour that is palpable", giving the food 8.5/10. Read his review here . More next week.

  • Eatyard Moves To The Northside

    When it was announced that the Bernard Shaw was closing last month it's fair to say the city went into mourning, but the good news is it's coming back - and so is Eatyard . The new Bernard Shaw opens in the old Whitworth/Porterhouse site on Cross Guns bridge, in between Glasnevin and Phibsboro on Friday 15th November, with Eatyard hosting some new food vendors. Joining the line up this season are La Cocina Cuevas , who've had people trekking to the Naul this year in search of tacos, raw and vegan specialists My Goodness who've gained a serious following in cork for their fermented foods and loaded nachos, and The Saucy Cow with vegan comfort food like "saucy spice bags" and deep-fried PB&J sandwiches. The Big Blue Bus is back and will be pulling up outside to serve their stonebaked pizzas, and Buttercream Dream will be returning with their vegan cupcakes, traybakes and brownies. Eatyard's days and times will be the same as the original site, opening from Thursday - Saturday from 12:00 - 22:00, and Sunday from 12:00 - 20:00, and there's a full programme of events planned. More details coming on those soon. Eatyard @ The Bernard Shaw Cross Guns Bridge, Glasnevin, Dublin 9 Thu - Sat 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00 the-eatyard.com

  • Fish Shop Is Closing

    The owners of Fish Shop in Smithfield have announced that they're closing their Queen Street location and opening a new restaurant in Tramore. Before mass panic sets in, the more casual Benburb Street location will remain open, so there will still be somewhere in Dublin to have fish and chips with natural wine. Owners Peter Hogan and Jumoke Akintola said on Instagram that they're looking forward to opening a bigger restaurant by the sea, with Peter originally from the Waterford seaside town. The Beach House in is due to open in Spring next year. Fish Shop opened in Smithfield four years ago, after initially starting as a fish and chips shack in Blackrock Market the previous year. Their second location, a fish and chip shop/wine bar on Benburb Street followed. They were seen as part of a wave of exciting new restaurants in Dublin that started during the recession, along with others like Etto, Forest Avenue and Bastible, and seemed to universally impress critics and diners, with Katy McGuinness saying she was "in food heaven" after a visit there in April. At this year's Irish Restaurant Awards they took home 'Best Seafood Experience in Ireland'. Fish Shop Queen Street will serve their last service on the 21st December, and you can book tables before then through the Tock system on their website . To check on progress with the Beach House Tramore follow them on Instagram here .

  • This Week's Critic Reviews

    A full run of Dublin reviews this weekend which is selfishly our fav. Sorry to anyone outside the capital feeling neglected, but there are many reasons below to take a trip soon. In the Irish Times Catherine is as taken with Mamó in Howth as we were , calling it "a breath of fresh sea air". Bread with vadouvan butter was like a "version of curry and carbs chipper pleasure", ceviche of monkfish with orange and pickled cucumber was "a beautiful plate of food", and clams with lime juice, olive oil and garlic was "the dish of the night". Comeragh lamb had "gorgeous meat flavour", brill was "as fresh as you'd expect", and their Howth honey tart turned "seaside village terroir into spoon licking pleasure". She says Mamó is "a clever, kind restaurant that manages to be both fresh and comfortingly familiar" and gives it 9/10 - quite the opening score in their first week. Read her review here . Read our Mamó once over here . In the Irish Examiner Leslie Williams comes over all priest-like after a pilgrimage to Bastible in Dublin 8, quoting Jesus himself and saying the food made him "feel humble in the presence of genius and with my spirits exalted". It started with some of the best bread he's had "all decade", followed by breaded chicken thighs topped with a pickle - "utter deliciousness". After that came the "peasant favourite" swede which was elevated to "royal status" by being baked in ginger oil and served with pickled girolle mushrooms and mole sauce made from pulped roasted pumpkin seeds, Marmite and kelp stock - "2-star Michelin level flavour-layering" apparently. Mains of barbecued mackerel and braised lamb neck were "a triumph", while dessert of fluffy milk chocolate mousse encasing roasted yeast ice cream was made "other-worldly" by a sweet-sour syrup with fermented malt and beer. He says what head chef Cúán Greene and owner Barry Fitzgerald are doing "needs to be experienced", and it was "as close to a religious experience as I’m ever likely to have". They get 9.5/10 for food and drink and you can read the full thing here . In the Irish Daily Mail Tom Doorley was back at Delahunt looking for any reason to justify them losing their Michelin Bib Gourmand a few weeks ago. He couldn't find one. Beef tartare was "perfect", Jerusalem artichokes with blue cheese and walnuts were "perfectly in tune with the season", and skate wing was "cooked perfectly". Lamb with sheep's cheese and romesco (below) was "creative and clever" and a dark chocolate mousse with peanut foam was "more than the sum of its constituent parts" - which is going on our list of 'most hated critic phrases' - more of those below. A baked Saint-Marcellin cheese with rosemary honeycomb and sweet and sour chutney was "ace", and he describes the whole meal as "flawless". (Review not currently online) In the Irish Independent Katy McGuinness was in Stillorgan at neighbourhood restaurant Riba . It's safe to say she enjoyed it judging by the score but there's lots of constructive criticism in there. Fritto misto was "a little dull" with garlic aioli needing "more oomph". A Rick Higgins rib-eye was "cooked impeccably" but the accompanying salsa verde was "more like a pesto" and needed more punch. Roaring Water Bay mussels were "luscious", despite the redundant sourdough shards on top, and chocolate tart suffered from pastry that was too thick and "filling-threatening" honeycomb. She says Riba is "treading the line between being a neighbourhood restaurant that is all things to all people, while being interesting enough to satisfy us food nerds", giving them 8/10 for food, value and ambience. Read her review here . In the Sunday Independent Lucinda O'Sullivan seemed to like Mister S on Camden Street, despite a slightly trepidatious Instagram post about the "bum-numbingly hard wooden benches". She calls the food "as refined and elegant as any high-end fancy pants spot" with the "plumptious" gambas (another adjective for that list) described as "lick-the-plate-clean stuff", and her skate in dashi beurre blanc "delicious". She says they regretted the lamb skewers with the "greasy" lamb belly keeping her awake that night (TMI perhaps), but they enjoyed the tender, smoked Angus short rib, and she's still dreaming of the hispi cabbage with feta and sobrasada. Review not currently online but you can read our Mister S once over here . In the Sunday Business Post Gillian Nelis says she can still taste the Irish black sole she had at Little Mike's in Mount Merrion, part of the seafood sharing platter which also included John Dory, swordfish, Lambay Island crab claws, lobster fishcakes, Clogherhead prawns and mussels, as well as "top-drawer" chips - a "plate of fishy perfection". Sixteen-hour slow-roasted ox cheek arancini with hollandaise were "divine", monkfish fritti were "crispily delicious" and wine was "gorgeous". She says she'd encourage everyone to eat in places like Little Mike's , who actively support Irish suppliers and love to answer questions about their food, and Tomás Clancy calls the wine list "a wide-ranging delight". Read her review here . In the Sunday Times Niall Toner loved the gloriously hip Soup Ramen in Dun Laoghaire, where he found an apple and honey lemonade that was "way more than the sum of its parts" (oh look there's that phrase again), ramen that teetered on the divine, and an umami salad that was a delight. Read his review here . Read our Soup Ramen once over here . And if you were hanging on the edge of your seat waiting to hear where Joe McNamee was last week we can put you out of your misery - he was in Malarkey in Killarney where he found "big, booming flavours" and "fine, comforting fare". Read that here . More next week.

  • Some Things We Ate Last Week

    The week started in London with Monday's Michelin awards (more on that here ), where many, many delicious things were eaten - there is no city in Europe as exciting to eat in as London right now. Highlights included jalapeno cornbread with scrambled eggs at Rovi , and 40 day aged beef with Taipei butter rice at Bao in Borough (after Padella was closed, the stuff of nightmares). Also worth getting on a flight for - the LiangPi (cold skin) noodles at Master Wei in Bloomsbury, and the straciatella with fragola grapes and olive oil at Flor . If you are heading over soon check out some of our favourite places here - Lisa Back on home turf there were two appearances in Bread 41 in a 12 hour period (said as if that’s an unusual event). First stop was Friday night for their evening pizza service and a margherita with both the kimchi mayo (nice) and parmesan fondue (very nice). As you’d expect, the crust was excellent with a real sourdough tang, and hours for pizza are being extended on a phased basis so get there before word gets out and the crowds gather. After the pizza coma it was back in the Saturday morning pastry queue for the limited edition Tiramisu croissant. This monster filled with espresso-soaked sponge fingers and mascarpone cream, topped with curls of dark chocolate was completely worth the wait - Helen After three days of stalking Gertrude’s Insta stories, a walk to the office was finally timed just right in order to grab a still-warm apple crumble scone to eat al-desko. The picture doesn’t do it justice. It’s approximately the size of a small family car. Chunks of sweet apple are dotted throughout, and it’s topped with a sweet, buttery, cinnamony crumble - Helen The new dessert cocktails at Old Street in Malahide. We left with a grá for the tikki one with rum, falernum, passion fruit purée, orange syrup and limes, with a pineapple and ginger tequila jelly and a slice of peanut crunch. A “quick” Sunday lunch in Little Mike’s turned into a three hour affair ending in a (shared) seafood platter later. There were no regrets - Helen Garlicky, herby razor clams with a macadamia nut crust at Mamó in Howth. Read our full Mamó once over here - Lisa A star-studded invite to dinner in Ox in Belfast on Sunday night where Alain Passard (chef/owner of three Michelin-starred L'Arpège in Paris) was cooking, turned out to be one of the best meals of the years so far. Too many highlights to name but if in gun-to-head situation would give it to a gougère filled with Irish Coolattin cheddar, Lobster in a Vin Jaune sauce with smoked potatoes and cabbage, and a pre-dessert of sheep's yoghurt, blackberry, liquorice and olive oil. Already planning a pre-Christmas festive return and the last train home after lazing away the evening in Ox Cave - Lisa.

  • 5 Sausage Rolls We Want To Eat This Week

    Searching for a sausage roll in Dublin is like looking for a sockless barista with a beard - you’ll find loads but unfortunately not all are created equally, and the overly flaky, greasy ones that came out of a giant box in the freezer are best avoided. Yes the option of buying three for a euro in your local deli may be tempting but we would encourage you to resist the mass-produced rolls of questionable content, and present to you five alternatives that are on our list to seek-out this week. NB: This is not a definitive Dublin sausage roll list. These are just some that we currently have our eyes on. A definitive list is on the way after some more taste testing... 1) Alma, Portobello Sometimes feels like the team in Alma don’t just feed us, they educate us. Before they came along,we didn’t realise we had a loaded batata-shaped hole in our lives, nor did we realise that the humble sausage roll could be elevated to new heights with the addition of chimmichurri. A revelation. 2) Greenville Café, Tara Street When we heard that Tara St was getting a new café, we raised an eyebrow. Greenville Deli is within strolling distance of Shoe Lane Café, Póg, and Bread 41 so lots of competition from established names with loyal followings, but seeing these pork, pancetta, sage, fennel seed, and onion sausage rolls shot it to the top of our detour list. 3) Strudel Bakery, Dun Laoghaire Strudel tried calling these hot dogs, but customers started referring to them as 'Frankfurter Thingies', so it stuck. They’re sausages with mustard baked in flaky pastry so we’re calling them sausage rolls. 4) Green Bench Café We’ve long been fans of Green Bench Café and their gigantic sandwiches, but are very open to mixing it up in this cooler weather in favour of these meaty mouthfuls when they’re hot out of the oven every Friday. The start every October weekend needs. 5) Love Supreme We couldn't discuss Dublin's sausage rolls without mentioning Love Supreme . They’re huge, beautifully misshapen, and the varieties on offer are varied and imaginative. If you’re looking for a pasty all-pork filling, you won’t find it here, but you will find pork with pear & cardamom, red bean with chilli and coconut, or lamb with cranberries, sumac, and sriracha. Consider this to be the official launch of our petition to get the turkey, ham, stuffing, and cranberry sausage roll back on the menu in time for Christmas.

  • Beau-Vino Wine Bar Opens In Castleknock

    Beau-Vino , a new wine bar from the owners of The Lo-cal Kitchen , has opened in Castleknock Village. Husband and wife Stephen and Jenny Connolly say they thought the area desperately needed an alternative to "traditional boozers and family restaurants", and that they wanted to scratch their own itch for somewhere to go locally for wine and small plates. Beau-Vino is in a new retail development beside Lidl, and during the day operates at The Little Lo-Cal, serving coffee, breakfast, lunch and cake, but from 7pm Friday - Sunday it turns into a wine bar serving small plates and sharing boards. They say they want the focus to be on the wine, with all house options on tap and a rotating bottle list displayed on their 'wall of wine'. They're also selling wine 'en vrac' in refillable glass bottles to take home. Beau Vino is open now with table and counter seating inside and more seating outside under a heated awning. They're walk in only, but will take private party bookings from Monday - Thursday. Beau-Vino Lidl Neighbourhood Centre, Castleknock, Dublin 15 Fri - Sat 19:00 - 00:00. Sun 19:00 - 23:00 www.instagram.com/beau_vino

  • Your Alternative Christmas Party List - Part 1

    Yes, we know it’s only October, and it’s not even Halloween yet, but you can’t hide from the fact that there's less than ten weeks until Christmas (cue screaming) and the venue recommendation requests have been sliding into our DMs recently. If you haven’t booked your office Christmas party yet, or are planning to head out with a gang of friends but don’t know where to go, now’s the time to start seriously thinking about it before you’re left with nothing but a plate of dry turkey in the function room of a dodgy hotel - or Milano's. If you love food, but dread Christmas gatherings for the aforementioned reasons, here are some alternative party venues. Eatyard's Cheese And Wine Festival Is it even Christmas if you don’t really know what day it is and spend half your time in a cheese coma?We have just the place for you. The Eatyard team are bringing a Winter Wine and Cheese Festival to Jam Park in Swords from November 21st to December 14th . Entry is priced at €15 each (or €100 for a table of 8), which is great value considering you’ll get wine and cheesy treats on arrival, and then access to pop-up wine bars and cheese shops, music and entertainment. Groups can add other options such as a wine masterclass, games packages, or Christmas karaoke if you’re feeling brave - who doesn't like cheese with their cheese? See www.wine-n-cheese.com for details and booking info. Christmas Afternoon Tea At Póg There’s no shortage of afternoon tea spots in Dublin, the only limitation is availability and budget. Póg’s Tara Street location is offering an afternoon tea that will cater for pretty much everyone in your group. The vegan option features sourdough with a range of dips and toppings, a vegan burger, acai and magik smoothie shots, and a selection of vegan desserts like mini Christmas puds, vegan cheesecake, and Christmas tree-shaped cookies. For meat-eaters, the vegan burger can be swapped out for the epic turkey, ham, brie, and stuffing sandwich and features non-vegan versions of the desserts. It's available 14:00 - 16:00 Monday to Sunday and is priced at €30 per person or €37 with a glass of bubbles - it’s a no-brainer. Booking is required, and groups of up to 60 people can be accommodated. Reservations can be made by contacting bookings@ifancyapog.ie. A Yard Of Pizza At Pizza Yard, Ranelagh Get the gang together and get down to Pizza Yard for a pizza that’s … you guessed it. A yard long. Pile on plenty of toppings and there’ll be something for everyone. The menu also includes pasta, starters, cocktails, and individual pizzas for anyone who doesn’t like sharing - although feel free to not invite them. For bigger groups, upgrade to the two yard version. That’s basically the length of Nicholas Cage. See www.pizzayard.ie for all the deets. Private Dining, The Shelbourne If your budget is on the more generous side The Shelbourne has a range of private dining options that will allow even the most discerning guest to host an unforgettable event. Four private dining rooms (The Constitute Suite, The St. Stephen’s Suite, The George Moore Suite, and the Adam & Deirdre Suite) offer dining options for groups of 8 to 80 and, as you’d expect, bespoke food and wine options. White glove service, fine china, and opulent surroundings is exactly how we’d like to kick off our festive season. Contact the hotel for more details. If your wallet doesn’t quite stretch to a private dining suite, The Shelbourne’s Christmas Afternoon tea is always one of our favourites (despite that pesky 90 minute maximum stay per table), but be warned that you need to book early. It’s everything you’d expect - extravagant, delicious, and eaten while listening to soothing piano music. If we ever needed an opportunity to get dressed up to eat cake, this is it. Bookings can be made online here . Food, Drinks And Dancing In The Well Since opening during the summer, The Well has been drawing in Gen Y and X in their droves. From dedicated co-working and collaboration spaces, hosted events, Dublin Pizza Company on site, and late-night DJs, we reckon this would be an ideal spot for a work outing that’ll suit those who are rushing for the last bus as well as those who want to stick around and dance into the small hours. Check out www.thewelldublin.ie for information and bookings. All The Mezze And BYO In Rotana Café While Christmas has always been a pretty significant holiday in Ireland, a lot of the more traditional aspects don’t lend themselves easily to organising festive nights out for more multicultural groups. One of our favourite spots with this in mind Rotana, a Lebanese restaurants offering mezze platters, Lebanese flatbreads, halal grilled kebabs, and ample vegetarian and vegan options. It’s BYO so a great way to keep costs down, while suiting everyone’s needs and preferences. Menu and booking details are available at www.rotanacafe.ie. Taste Of Dublin Festive Edition, RDS Proving that festivals aren’t just for the summer, the Taste of Dublin Festive Edition is coming to the RDS, kicking the season off early from November 28th to December 1st with a weekend of festive eating and drinking and cooking demonstrations. While outdoor festivals are great, very often the risk of rain can put a dampener on things, so we're welcoming the chance to keep warm and dry indoors, and because Taste of Dublin tends to bleed your bank account dry faster than an expensive drug habit, this is a great one for when work is paying - the Champagne packages obviously. Individual and group tickets are available from www.dublin.tastefestivals.com with bespoke private packages on offer for groups of 50-250. Vaulted Elegance At Stack A Restaurant, CHQ If a traditional sit-down meal is more your scene, Stack A Restaurant in the CHQ building is a pretty breath-taking place to do it. Part of Urban Brewing , Stack A is located downstairs and diners are seated in the network of vaults which can make even big groups feel like they’re in an intimate environment. The two-course lunch menu starts at €25, with three-course dinner options ranging from €45 - €55. Details are available by emailing welcome@urbanbrewing.ie

  • Where To Go When You're Not Drinking

    As much as it goes against our international reputation, not drinking is fast becoming "a thing", and it's no longer the vestige of the pregnant, in recovery or on antibiotics. Pubs like The Bernard Shaw , The Square Ball , and MVP have led the way in Dublin for non-alcoholic drinks options you might actually want to drink (with the latter hosting " sober Sundays "), but while mocktails and 0% beer are nothing new to Dublin, non-alcoholic wine is (and we're not talking about the brutally sweet supermarket grape juice). Turns out the Germans have been making the stuff for over 70 years. 'Eins Zwei Zero' is a range of alcohol free Riesling, Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon from award-winning German winemaker Johannes Leitz, using new technology that allows the alcohol to be vacuum-distilled at low temperatures, allowing the wine to keep more of its wine-like characteristics. We're not going to say that non-alcoholic Riesling tastes exactly the same as regular Riesling, but it's a major step forward. Interest sufficiently piqued? Here's where to plan your next lunch or dinner when you're on the dry. Coppinger Row Coppinger Row serve the whole Eins Zwei Zero range, and the smell of their garlic mussels with chargrilled ciabatta wafting out of the restaurant has been known to draw zombie-like diners in off the street (guilty). Pair them with the Pinot Noir rosé on the terrace when the sun's shining for all the Mediterranean vibes with none of the associated tipsiness. China Sichuan China Sichuan in Sandyford still feels like something of a secret outside food circles (or Sandyford), but those in the know make the journey for the waltip dumplings, ma po tofu, and man and wife beef slices. Food with any level of spice is notoriously hard to pair wine with, but the usual recommendation is something with a little sweetness to balance the heat. Try the sparkling Riesling with the chilli chicken - and you can drive home afterwards. Kerb Foxrock New Middle Eastern Foxrock spot Kerb wanted to serve a healthier take on the late night kebab, so everything from flatbreads to dips to falafel are made in house and ingredients are sourced locally. Sparkling Pinot Noir rosé and the mezze platter is a win. Ananda Ananda head chef Karan Mittal's tasting menu is a journey through electrifying Indian flavours carried by some of the best Irish ingredients. After we had his roast Roscommon goat leg with fermented rice patties and three different chutneys we thought of little else for weeks, and the Leitz non-alcoholic Riesling would be the perfect accompaniment for the fruity, spicy flavours. Shelbourne Social When Dylan McGrath's Shelbourne Social opened in Ballsbridge earlier this year it was the hot curd bread menu (as well as the sharing steak) that had everyone talking. Try the warm, buttery bread with chicken liver parfait, pickled grapes, crispy shallot and shaved foie gras with a glass of Pinot Noir rosé. Crow Street Crow Street 's pre-theatre menu is one of the best deals in town with two courses for €19.95 and three for €24.95. Some of their popular dishes include buffalo mozzarella with beetroot, orange and pistachio pesto, and braised pork shoulder tostadas with cabbage, avocado & pineapple salsa, but we'd be going for the maple & bourbon glazed short rib of beef with a glass of Cabernet Sauvignon. You can also try the Eins Zwei alcohol-free wines in Beo Wine Bar , Pichet , Ely Wine Bar , 57 The Headline , Fade Street Social , Lao Chinese and Korean BBQ , Osteria 99 i n Monkstown, The Green Hen , Sweeney's D3 and loads more places outside Dublin, like Two Cooks in Sallins. If you're looking for a bottle to take home you can find it in practically every good specialist food and wine shop in the city, including Avoca, Lotts & Co, Redmonds in Ranelagh, Deveney's in Dundrum, Martins in Fairview, 64 Wine, The Vintry in Rathgar, Baggot Street Wines, Mortons in Ranelagh, Drinkstore in Stoneybatter, Blackrock Cellars, D-Six Harold's Cross, Donnybrook Fair, Thomas's in Foxrock, and McHugh's in Kilbarrack and on the Malahide Road. You can also order online from drinkstore.ie and wineonline.ie . Leitz non-alcoholic wines are distributed in Ireland by Mackenway Wines .

  • This Week's Critic Reviews

    Portion size gripes, badly disguised digs and headache inducing playlists this week. In the Irish Independent Katy McGuinness has some issues with the newly opened Commons at MoLI (Museum of Literature Ireland), calling the noise "cacophonous", the portions "stingy" and the prices "bullish". She could see its potential in dishes like the "excellent" Burren Smokehouse smoked salmon with fermented potato bread scones, horseradish crème fraîche and trout caviar, and the roast heritage and Iona carrots with organic buttermilk, dill and hazelnut dukkah - "perfection - balanced, nuanced, full of texture and flavour", but butternut squash soup was "bland and under-seasoned" and a braised beef blaa with Gorgonzola and pickled mustard greens had "the meerest smear of cheese". Despite the criticisms she gives the food 8/10, saying it's early days and she's sure the wrinkles can be ironed out. Read her review here . In the Sunday Times Niall Toner dissects the "contentless blather" at this year's Michelin awards ceremony, before dissecting new opening and former "proper boozer" Spitalfields . He liked the food, he liked the service, he didn't like the different music being played on two different levels - "an unintended mash up too far", and despite calling the food "lovingly crafted" he couldn't bring himself to a full four stars out of five, hovering at three and a half. Read that here . In the Sunday Business Post Gillian Nelis reckons she scored a coup by being the first person to pay for dinner at newly two-starred restaurant The Greenhouse on Dawson Street, after craftily booking the first table she could get post awards, and then rushing to summon the card reader before anyone else had a chance. If you weren't bothered about eating there before, you will be after reading this, with the canapés alone enough to make your eyes pop: "little globes of beetroot caramel filled with a cabernet sauvignon jelly; aged Parmesan custard tarts topped with preserved lemon; and gorgeous Flaggy Shore oysters from Clare with a cucumber emulsion, oyster chantilly and Champagne-pickled shallots." They soaked up "every drop" of "perfect, angular" sea bream with a langoustine farci, chanterelles, Jerusalem artichoke purée and brown butter sabayon, and also loved the hare with celeriac, sauce poivrade, pear and Timut pepper - "a crunchy, slightly sweet, smoky delight". Dessert of "perfectly-made" chocolate mousse with praline and coffee ice-cream was the best her friend had ever eaten, and she says the customers are going to be lining up behind them. Read the full review here . In the Sunday Independent Lucinda O'Sullivan L-L-Loved Lignum in Galway, calling it "the most impressive and important restaurant, showcasing Irish cuisine, to have opened this year" (in the worst veiled dig at Aimsir/Michelin/who knows in any media publication this year). To be fair, it sounds like a meal worthy of epic proclamations with dishes like raw seasoned shrimp in a hay-smoked bisque, ember-cooked plaice with juniper, seaside foraged herbs and XO sauce, and the one that's currently driving us to distraction - lamb shoulder on a vinegar based set smoked cream, with egg yolk jam. Pre-desserts and desserts were "stunning" and "spectacular", and she calls it "fine dining at its very best". Only 11.5 months until we find out if Michelin feels the same. (Review not currently online) In the Irish Times Catherine Cleary is on fine literary form in describing her solo trip to Everett's in Waterford: "The river flowed the money into this small city and the merchants built their houses on the hills rising up from their income stream." Although prices were "steep" she says it was exactly the type of "hearty cooking" she needed. Brown bread made with macroom flour was "terrific", Andarl Farm pork belly with coco de Paimpol beans, smoked barbecue sauce and a gooey poached egg was given maximum flavour with some bacon salt, and Kilmore Quay cod came with a "beautiful" prawn bisque and local buttered queens. A blackcurrant sorbet with candied hazelnuts and a lightly poached pear was a nice reminder that we're into Autumn, service felt like "a welcome hug", and she gives it 8.5/10, calling it "another delightful reason to visit Waterford". Read her review here . In the Irish Daily Mail Tom Doorley was at The East Room Restaurant at the University of Limerick, and wasn't quite as enthusiastic as Lucinda back in August was at who described it as "Michelin-level food". Tom calls it "excellent in parts", with a kitchen that's "skilled and ambitious ... when it's firing on all cylinders." The "excellent" included cured salmon with grapefruit jelly, cucumber, Doonbeg crab, fennel and smoked crème fraîche, and slow-cooked rib of beef with savoury barley, toasted hazelnuts, Jerusalem artichoke and herb butter. Other dishes showed a "lack of judgement", like pork belly with scallops gussied up with finely diced pineapple and chorizo, and a risotto of wild mushrooms and summer truffle with a crisp (not actually crisp) hen egg, under-cooked rice and "negligible flavour". Desserts of white chocolate bavarois and passionfruit tart were "ace", and he said it was unusual to find such careful judgement in some dishes, and a lack of it in others, but that there's "some excellent cooking going on here". (Review not currently online) No Examiner this week as it wasn't in the shops and it's not online. The digital desk must have taken the weekend off. It's Joe McNamee's week so it's most likely somewhere in Cork. More next week.

  • The Greenhouse and Variety Jones Awarded New Michelin Stars

    Never has a Michelin awards ceremony been filled with as many tense Irish people as last night's in The Hurlingham Club in London, but the palpable anxiety in the room was rewarded with the news that Ireland has two new two-starred restaurants.  The Greenhouse on Dawson Street was elevated from one to two stars, while  Aimsir in Kildare went straight into the guide at two stars - something that rarely happens. Before yesterday  Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud was the only two-star in the country, since Thornton's lost their second star in 2005 (they lost the remaining one in 2015 and closed the year after.) Mickael Viljanen, head chef at The Greenhouse almost combusted following the announcement, a mixture of disbelief and total relief on his face as he walked towards the stage. He lifted Raymond Blanc into the air with elation, which ended in them both falling to the ground - luckily no chefs had to be hospitalised in the making of this award. He was so overcome that he forgot to pose for his official photograph, and had to be called back after being interviewed on stage by cringe-inducing presenter Amanda Stretton. There probably would have been a revolt if Aimsir in Kildare hadn't gone straight in at two stars but luckily no one had to storm the stage. Chef Jordan Bailey, formerly head chef at three-starred Maemo in Oslo, and wife Majken Bech-Bailey appeared genuinely stunned, with Bech-Bailey in tears. The other big Dublin winner last night was  Variety Jones  who were awarded a star for their open-fire cooking on Thomas Street just nine months after opening (you can read our VJ once over here ). The team only got the call telling them they were invited last Wednesday, and rumours were circulating on Twitter yesterday that they had cancelled all reservations for the start of this week. It also transpired that Irish Times food editor Marie-Claire Digby's teasing tweet earlier in the day referred to the Variety Jones team. The whole team celebrated later at The Laughing Heart in Bethnal Green.  There was confusion amongst the Irish media and some watching at home when Damien Grey from  Liath wasn't announced as a new star holder. The assumption had been made that Liath was a new restaurant, and therefore would be announced as a new one (or two) star, but when the awards ceremony ended with no mention of them there were a few minutes of panicked messages and glances, followed by a run outside to grab the guide, which confirmed that the team had been awarded a star. It was classed as a retention from Heron & Grey which is why it wasn't announced on stage. New stars were also awarded to The Oak Room in Adare Manor, Bastion in Kinsale and The Muddlers Club in Belfast. There were no starred deletions from the guide this year, meaning that Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud has held onto their two stars, while  Chapter One  and L'Ecrivain held on to their one. Enda McEvoy from Loam in Galway won a new Michelin award for sustainability, while Jurica Gojevic from Adare Manor took home a new sommelier award. The Michelin guide 2020 is undoubtedly going to further help put the spotlight on Ireland and Irish food as something worth travelling for, and if things keep going the way they are expect more stars next year. In Dublin we'll be keeping a close eye on Potager , Bastible and Niall Davidson's Allta , and would like to see Liath elevated to two stars, but 12 months is a long time in restaurants. Who knows where else could be a contender by next October.

  • This Week's Critic Reviews

    In a week where tensions are high and Michelin-related rumours are rife, once again this weekend's reviews are all about the new openings - and at least a couple have the potential to be at the centre of next year's rumours. We'll be posting live from the Michelin awards in London tomorrow so head over to our social media channels from 16:00 for all the goss. In the Irish Examiner Leslie Williams is the third critic to give their verdict on  Spitalfields  in The Coombe, despite it only opening two weeks ago. Like Gillian Nelis last week he also comments on the prices, calling some dishes "a little steep" - like the devilled eggs with two halves of an egg for €6 - ouch indeed. He very nicely says that it was only the third night and that often portion sizes end up getting tweaked, but paying punters might not be so forgiving. He calls everything from the pastry section "outstanding", especially the warm sourdough with dried leek powder Cuinneog butter, and that beef cheek and bone marrow Parker house roll starter was "the dish of the evening" - although the cock-a-leekie pie for two was a close second. He bravely asked for off-menu chips and they obliged - he recommends everyone does the same as they were "chunky but crispy and fluffy". Crème caramel was "wobbly and creamy-rich", while coconut & lime sorbet had "a perfect balance of flavours". He calls the meal "almost perfect ...particularly impressive so early in their run", giving the food 8.5/10 and value 7/10. Read his review here . In the Irish Independent Katy McGuinness calls the food at Potager "delectable", saying it's made Skerries "a destination". She praises the "hyper-seasonal approach", and the fact that they're using "some of the best growers in the area" to make dishes including "exemplary" bread with fresh ricotta and kale pesto. "Iridescent-skinned" cured mackerel with greenages and cucamelon was "art", wood pigeon "paired beautifully" with beetroot, blackberry and chocolate, and a tangy Velvet Cloud sheep's yoghurt sorbet with figs, lemon curd and honeycomb was "delightful". She calls it "a sophisticated food experience without appearing to try too hard", and gives them 9/10 for food, ambience and value. Read her review here . In the Sunday Independent Lucinda O'Sullivan is lamenting Dun Laoghaire's deteriorating main street and "general air of down and out", calling new opening Caspar and Giumbinis "a very welcome addition", but you might call it a meal of two halves. Starters bombed, with a prawn cocktail containing "mushy, watery and overcooked" prawns and a "dreary Marie Rose sauce", while dressed crab was not classic dressed crab, but two "quenelles of a flavourless crabmeat" on sourdough. After that things improved with "beautifully cooked" Dover sole, "excellent" steak frites and a dessert of lemon curd, raspberry sorbet and pink peppercorn meringue which was "really lovely", while service was also "excellent". (Review not currently online). In the Sunday Times Dara Flynn (deputy lifestyle editor) is in the restaurant reviewer's chair this week, and does a decent analysis of Le Perroquet on Leeson Street. Apart from the too dim lighting and the OTT mock-vintage posters covering the walls she liked most of the food (just don't mention the poor carrots). Read her review here . In the Sunday Business Post Gillian Nelis was in new Italian  Ripasso in Bray, where "value abounds" and food was "generously sized". Highlights included squid with chargrilled fennel, rigatoni all’amatriciana with guanciale, and a satisfyingly wobbly burrata which produced "distinctly orgasmic sounds from across the table" - SBP apparently not so PG. A Nutella and ricotta cannolo with pistachios was too good to share but the chef's selection of desserts was a mixed bag, with a tiramisu custard tart "okay" and a vegan chocolate mousse "very good". Between the value, the friendly service and the other things on the menu she wished she'd ordered, she says she can see herself eating there regularly. Read her review here . In the Irish Daily Mail Tom Doorley says the arrival of  Goldie - Fish and Ale in Cork is "one of the most exciting things to happen in food in the city for a very long time." He calls it "a very cool contemporary restaurant run by young, cheerful people", and says they're succeeding "superbly" on delivering a short, local seafood based menu with "no cheffy faffing about". A nibble of prawn cocktail, crisps, cultured cream and seaweed "set the tone for the meal", and was followed by seared, devilled sardines "as fresh as the morning dew" (below), while whole roast Dover sole with caper noisette and kale was "first rate fish cooked perfectly". A dessert of mascarpone and espresso mousse with a chocolate marquise brought out all the superlatives, including "considerable brilliance", "decadent" and "utterly indulgent", and the only thing he bemoans is the "perfunctory" wine selection. (Review not currently online) Finally in the Irish Times Catherine Cleary calls The Muddlers' Club in Belfast "one of the city's best restaurants", with food that over-delivered from the "terse list of bare bones words" on the menu. 'Seatrout, caesar, broccoli' tasted "so deliciously of river and sea" with Caesar salad sauces and swirls, meaty, savoury, smoked broccoli, and anchovy cream for "tang". Crab bisque had "sweet threads of the freshest crabmeat", and a courgette plate featured more iterations of the vegetable than we could imagine. A plum, white chocolate and coconut ice-cream dessert (below) brought everything "to a lovely end" and she says that The Muddlers Club owner and former Ox chef Gareth McCaughey has "learned from the best to do his own very impressive thing." She gives it 9/10 and you can read the full thing here . More next week.

  • Some Things We Ate This Week

    The entire menu at Double 8 in Bray. The handmade dumpling shop only serves four varieties (for now) so easy to have it all, and all four were demolished, but the Kung Pao chicken and randomly the banoffee were the standouts - Lisa The Burrata from Crudo. It’s huge, dotted with hibiscus leaves, and served with a fennel and coriander marmalade that cut through the creaminess of the cheese beautifully - Helen A pumpkin spiced doughnut from Minetta deli in Sutton. Crunchy, sugary and pretty huge, but could have done with a bit more spice - Lisa The Crème Brûlée ice-cream from Three Twenty Ice-Cream Labs. After walking off a lunchtime sandwich we engaged our dessert stomach (the one that stays empty for dessert, no matter how much food you’ve already consumed) and went for one of our favourites, the crème brûlée that’s finished with a torched sugar top. Would have liked a little more crunch on this one - Helen A raspberry and almond financier from The Garden House in Malahide . Dense and fudgey, but at €5.95 you won't have much change from a tenner after adding on a coffee - Lisa Taiwanese chicken from Only Oriental Bakery on Middle Abbey Street. After a tip off from food writer Mei Chin, we made a beeline in here and enjoyed the juicy, spiced chicken, the posh chicken sandwich and the boba teas - Lisa S’mores from Kelly Lou Cakes. We popped in to the Intercontinental hotel this week to mark the launch of Taste of Dublin Festive Edition which is taking place in the RDS from November 28th to December 1st. The s’mores cookies and cupcakes, and the marshmallow toasting station went down a treat. Kelly Lou Cakes has two retail shops in Portlaoise, but you can also find them at events throughout the country - Helen

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