Landing us with a sudden flurry of snow on the first day of Spring might be the most Irish thing ever, but for all the lingering winter vibes that weather suggests, the seasons have certainly changed across Dublin’s menus. Our fave forced rhubarb is everywhere we look, the brilliance of blood orange is in no short supply, and we’re starting to see the very first shoots of wild garlic. Here’s where to go to eat the best of Spring in the city...
Blood orange sponge, Two Pups
Bringing a touch of seasonal love to the Liberties, Two Pups dreamed up this pretty-in-pink beauty as a Valentine special and have kept it going ever since. Blood orange sponge is drizzled with pink icing and topped with delicate blobs of piped cream – we’re in love.
Rhubarb brioche bun, Fable
Dawson Street’s Fable is a class-act at working with the seasons’ best bounties, and this new rhubarb brioche bun is just the latest example. Pistachio and the pink stuff are a god-given combo with time to shine here alongside a mascarpone cream infused with tarragon. It’s been sold out every time we’ve tried to get one, and is it any wonder.
Rhubarb pastry, Bread 41
Constant innovators Bread 41 win the ingenuity award hands-down with the audacity of a rhubarb sherbet to a Danish special. This particular pastry might not be on when you wander in, but never fear, they’ve been sprinkling the stuff on plenty of new creations. Classic bedfellows blood orange, ginger and pistachio are also on hand to bring out the ruby stalks’ best.
Blood orange cake, Daddy’s
Over in Rialto they’re letting blood orange, too often consigned to a supporting role, speak for itself. This beautifully bright cake from Daddy’s goes dense with a mix of sweet semolina and almond flours, all the better to absorb the bitter boldness of the sliced citrus fruits and added Campari. They’ve only gone and done a rhubarb and geranium jam too.
Rhubarb mille feuille, Bread Man Walking
We’re loathe to whet your appetite with things you can’t immediately go out and get for yourself, but Gerry Godley (aka Bread Man Walking)’s recent ode to rhubarb is a beautifully-put expression of why, sometimes, that’s the sheer joy of seasonality all in itself. As long as the forced stuff is hanging around – that’s just a few more short weeks now – we’re sure Gerry will be doing the best stuff in the city with it.
Rhubarb and custard brioche, Bread Naturally
There are plenty of fancy flavours and out-there offerings on this list, but sometimes simplicity is hard to beat. Bread Naturally’s brioche leans into the pared-back pleasures of rhubarb and custard and we’re 100% on board. The soft lightness of brioche, the mellow sweetness of crème pat, the sharp tang of rhubarb - who needs more?
Sea scallop crudo with blood orange, Mamo
Look at the colours on this one. Ever quick to usher in the seasons, Mamo have used the citrus acidity of blood orange to centre an Irish sea scallop crudo. There’s pickled chilli for heat and coriander oil to bring it all together – if it tastes half as good as it looks, we might be ordering seconds.
Rhubarb and vanilla maritozzi, Elliot’s
Over in Phibsborough, Elliot’s are throwing themselves full throttle into the season with a seemingly endless slew of Spring confections. Their mille feuille turned our head too but in a straight shootout it’s got to be the maritozzi. These brioche buns are filled with a rhubarb vanilla compote and topped with a silky crème légère. There’s a blood orange and pistachio one on the go, too.
Apple and rhubarb almond bake, Honey Truffle
There’s a lot going on in this seasonal traybake from Honey Truffle, and we’re here for every last part of it. Apple, lemon and rhubarb bring all the fruity flavours, while the complimentary pairing of coconut and almond grounds things nicely. It’s almost a shame to slice this one up. Almost.
Spring greens slice, Mani
Seasonal pizza is something we can always get behind, and newcomers Mani are getting in on the game with this gorgeously green slice, spread with spinach bechamel and loaded with tender stem broccoli and sugar snap peas. Dabs of Cashel blue and drizzles of garlic and thyme honey seal the deal. These slices also reheat great at home - they'll put instructions in your takeaway box - so it's never a bad idea to grab a few for later if you're passing.
Custard and rhubarb jelly donut, The Morning
We can’t get over the cute little rhubarb jellies anointing these seasonal donuts from The Morning bakery in Portobello, and the campaign to get them sold by the bagful starts here. As they are here, sitting atop a thick custard cap on the sugar-dusted donuts, will do just fine until then though.
Stuffed morels with wild garlic and foie gras, Chapter One by Mickael Viljanen
It’s usually well into March before you see wild garlic emerging, but trust Chapter One to get out in front with this stunner of a plate. Stuffed morels would be enough in their own right, never mind the sultry spoonful of sherry vinegar sabayon it’s being bathed in here, and the talk of calves tail braising juices. Pure filth.
