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  • Where To Get Groceries Delivered From In A Lockdown

    One of the few things that's made us optimistic in the middle of Ireland’s COVID-19 crisis is seeing the ingenuity and adaptability from so many restaurants, producers and suppliers. While we know it’s not possible for everyone to turn themselves into an artisan Amazon overnight, we’re heartened to see that more and more delivery services are being launched and we now have new ways of getting quality products to our doorstep. Here are some of the suppliers currently delivering to Dublin, but given the rate of change we’ve seen over the past three weeks please be aware that service and delivery areas may change at short notice, so do contact suppliers if you’re not sure of what’s available in your area - we’re sure they’d love to help you out. Meat, Fish, Dairy Gubbeen Farmhouse Starting from €35 and giving you lots of opportunity to stock your fridge and freezer with cheese, hams, bacon, salami, and chorizo, Gubbeen Farmhouse's delivery boxes are customisable to suit your needs. Though we’re sure we can all agree that a chorizo catering pack is what we all need right now. Delivery nationwide is €10 and you can see more details on www.gubbeenfarmhouseproducts.com . Kish Fish Kish Fish are delivering their fresh fish and smoked salmon with a €25 minimum spend and free next-day delivery. Details are available from www.kishfish.ie where you’ll also find lots of great recipes. Sheridans Cheesemongers Judging by the amount of orders Sheridans are managing online it looks like we’re not the only ones seeking solace in a slab of Brillat-Savarin at the moment. Their online shop is packed full of cheeses, meats, wines, crackers, dips, sauces… pretty much everything you could hope for during a global pandemic. Delivery is €5 but free on orders over €100. There’s currently a note on their website to say that demand is high so plan in advance. On The Pigs Back On The Pigs Back are operating a collection service from their premises in Cork but a flat delivery fee of €15 will give you ample opportunity to have French and Irish cheeses, charcuterie, meats, meals and pates delivered to your door. See their selection here . Andarl Farm We’re not sure if we’re allowed to get excited about anything at the moment, but hearing that Andarl Farm, home of that amazing velvet pork chop that’s been blazing across Dublin restaurant menus, are now delivering was a welcome distraction. Their full range is available from www.andarlfarm.ie but the one that really caught our eye was a special offer to keep the whole family happy. For €75 including delivery you’ll receive a cool box containing beef, lamb and pork mince, Angus steaks, pork steak, belly and chops, sausages, rashers and a 4lb piece of gammon. Cashel Irish Farmhouse Cheesemakers The folks at Cashel Cheesemakers have teamed-up with other Tipperary suppliers like The Apple Farm and Cooleeney Farm to create boxes containing cheese, juices, yogurt, meats, and preserves. Prices start at €58 and delivery is free. See www.cashelblue.com for details Burren Smokehouse While they’ve had to close their visitor centres, Burren Smokehouse are still supplying their smoked Irish organic salmon, trout, and mackerel for delivery. Details are on www.burrensmokehouse.com . F.X. Buckley F.X. Buckley is now offering home delivery. A breakfast pack starts at €22 or fill your freezer with a range of steaks for €110. There’s also a box of Andarl Farm pork chops, lamb cutlets, and sirloin steaks that should see a family of meat-eaters through the week for €68. Details are on www.fxbuckley.ie . James Whelan Butchers Lots of products and recipes are available from James Whelan Butchers where delivery is €10 or free on orders over €100. See www.jameswhelanbutchers.com for info. The Whole Hoggs You can order pretty much every pork product you can think of (and also duck eggs) from The Whole Hoggs - cured ham, lots of varieties of sausage, pork burgers, fillets, chops, loins, basically the whole hog... Details on www.thewholehoggs.com . Fruit and Vegetables Hussey Fruit & Veg While Hussey Fruit and Veg seem to be supplying many retailers at the moment, they’re also delivering boxes of fruit and veg to homes. As well as their usual A-grade suppliers like Ard Mhaca Shiitake, Ryan's Rhubarb and Drummond House garlic, they've also teamed up with people like Velvet Cloud and St. Tola to help keep their products moving, so it's well worth a look if you’re keen to have fresh fruit, vegetables, and dairy delivered each week. The basic fruit and veg box is €25 (including a 10kg bag of potatoes) with add ons extra. Information is available by phoning 01864300 or email your order to husseyveg@gmail.com, and they should be set up for online ordering very soon. The Green Grocer, Stoneybatter Home delivery of fruit, vegetables, groceries, eggs, and cupboard staples is available from The Green Grocer in Stoneybatter. They don’t have a website but an extensive stock list has been posted on their Facebook page . Call them on 01 7071854 to order. The Fruit People They're more commonly known for office deliveries, but with most offices closed you might want to consider The Fruit People for fruit and veg boxes delivered to your home. A small box is €30 and a large €40, and you can also add on snacks, tea and Tartine bread. All the information you need is on their website . Meal Boxes Blacksheep Foods Probably best known by All The Food readers for Chapelizod café BaaBaa, catering company Black Sheep Foods has launched a range of boxes to cover all solitary scenarios. The breakfast box includes pastries, fresh juice, organic eggs, sausage rolls, granola pots, and a sourdough baguette; the Irish cheese and charcuterie grazing box is full of charcuterie, cheese, seasonal fruits, breads, crackers and dips, and there’s even an Easter Box with chocolate eggs, hot cross buns, and seasonal treats. Or you can arrange a weekly juice box drop to ensure you’re getting all of your vitamins. Delivery is free in Chapelizod or €5 to Dublin City area and is contactless. All details are on www.blacksheepfoods.ie . BuJo If Friday nights are starting to feel a little samey, plan ahead by ordering a kit from BuJo in Sandymount and you’ll have all the burger patties, brioche buns, cheese, pickles and burger sauce you need to mark the end of another week. Each box contains enough to feed eight people (making 4 single burgers, and 4 doubles) and comes with full assembly instructions. While originally just available for delivery in D2 and D4, the meal kit is now available across Dublin and priced at €40 (inc. delivery), which works out as €5 a burger - a bargain. Orders must be placed online at www.bujo.ie where you’ll see details of their next delivery dates. Grocery/General Forest Avenue It turns out Forest Avenue 's ingenuity extends outside of the kitchen too. Sandy and John Wyer have turned their D4 dining room into a neighbourhood grocery store and they’re working with suppliers like Hussey Fruit and Veg, Niall Sabongi’s Sustainable Seafood Ireland and McNally Family Farm to keep customers stocked-up at home. You can also grab homemade pasta, bread, baked treats, prepared meals and even flowers to recreate the experience at home until you can next book a table. You can visit the shop (with social-distancing measures enforced), book a click-and-collect slot, or arrange delivery. See forestavenuerestaurant.ie for information. Avoca Avoca is doing what it does best - keeping us well-stocked with basics, meals and lots of treats. Delivery is €5.50 nationally but free if you’re within 10km of Avoca’s Rathcoole, Monkstown, Kilmacanoge, Dunboyne, Ballsbridge, Mount Usher or Malahide stores. Their product list is extensive covering cupboard essentials, pasta and sauces, chilled goods, meats, prepared mains, wines and baked goods. There’s also a food parcel to feed a family of six for the guts of a week featuring items like shepherd’s pie, lasagne, breads and cakes. Priced at €225 it’s not the cheapest way to feed your family, but a good option when your head might need a break from all the stress and planning. Click here for details of available products and details of how to order from your local store. Fallon & Byrne In a similar vein to Avoca, Fallon and Byrne are offering fruit, veg, prepared meals, meat and fish, breads and cakes, cheese, charcuterie and grocery items. It also might be one of the only places to have a consistent supply of flour, for now. Details on www.fallonandbyrne.com . Asia Market Wondering where on earth to get gochujang, black rice vinegar or frozen dumplings right now? Praise the Lord, Asia Market on Drury Street delivers. It's long been one of our go-to spots for pretty much any ingredient you could need to create fantastic Asian meals at home, and delivery is a flat fee of €7.50. You can see everything in stock on www.asiamarket.ie . Bread, Cakes and Chocolate Bread 41 For those of us lucky enough to have Bread 41 within 2kms, we’ve been spoiled with fresh daily bread, croissants and sausage rolls. While they did shut for a while following the additional lockdown restrictions, they're once again open and not just taking pre-orders but also delivering locally. It’s a new offering and it’s possible that we’ll see some adjustments as they iron out any teething problems, but keep an eye on www.bread41.ie for information. Public Service Announcement: order the hot cross buns if you get a chance - they’re the best we’ve ever tasted, and our research in this area has been pretty thorough. Mud Bakery If you’re in need of a treat (and let’s face it, who isn’t right now) Mud Bakery has started delivering across Dublin so you can now get pecan cookie sandwiches and torched-meringue topped salted caramel brownies right to your door. Delivery starts from €5 and all information is on www.mudbakery.com . Lorge Chocolatier One of our favourite small producers of luxury chocolates is Lorge Chocolatier in Kerry, who deliver across Ireland for €5 and offer free delivery on orders of over €50, so it really does make fiscal sense to stock-up. If you’re quick, you may even be able to grab an Easter egg. If not, we’re big fans of the Reglise – a box of 48 handmade chocolates. Check out www.lorge.ie . The Chocolate Garden of Ireland If you ever get a chance to visit The Chocolate Garden of Ireland workshop in Co. Carlow, you really should. However, from the comfort of your own home, you can order their products online. From novelty items (chocolate sliotar and hurley anyone?) to hampers and boxes of chocolates, there’s a huge selection on www.chocolategarden.ie . Le Patissier Robert Bullock has turned his business Le Patissier, which usually supplies restaurants and cafés, into a one-man show for now, and his Mulhuddart-based industrial kitchen is turning-out amazing cakes and pastries for collection. Delivery is currently available in Malahide, Swords, Rush, Lusk, Portmarnock and Skerries, and more locations may be announced soon. Check out their creations, including the mixed patisserie box (€30) that we can't stop thinking about, at www.lepatissier.ie . Tea & Coffee For coffee check out Proper Order , Cloud Picker , Imbibe , Soma , Roasted Brown and 3FE , who are all delivering to Dublin currently, whereas Clement and Pekoe and Suki Tea have you covered for tea. Also check out Siopa Éire , set up by Edward Coombe from Brötchen (the food stall selling German pretzels and plates at Twilight Evening Market and Honest2Goodness), a directory of Irish food producers doing online delivery being updated weekly - www.siopaeire.com . Did we miss anywhere you love? Let us know by emailing info@allthefood.ie.

  • Where To Get Drinks Delivered From

    There was some dismay last week with the release of what appeared to be a government statement announcing that alcohol was to be banned for the foreseeable in an effort to preserve our covidly-challenged immune systems. Luckily it turned out to be an April fools gag and plenty of businesses have risen to the challenges that lockdown has brought to start offering delivery of the good stuff. If ever there was a time to drink the special wine, or use the fancy glassware, this is it. 1) Frank's Camden Street Wine Bar Frank’s has begun a pick-up and delivery service, with a selection of cases including Frank's favourites (six bottles, €125), a mixed case of six organic or biodynamic including red, white and orange (€140), a seasonal case (€105) containing six spring worthy wines, and the cosy reds selection, yours to enjoy during thisprolonged couch season for €130. Also available is a set of two Frank's branded wineglasses (€25) or a gift hamper containing two wine glasses in a custom box and one bottle of Drac Magic Catalunya (€45), possibly a better gift this Easter than a chocolate Egg. Order for collection here . 2) Beau Vino Little sister of The Lo-Cal Kitchen , Castleknock wine bar Beau Vino was just hitting its stride when they had to close their doors. As of last week however, they've begun offering a local wine, cheese and charcuterie delivery within a 5km radius of Castleknock. A cheese and charcuterie board for two with a litre of house wine is €45, or a three bottle selection is €55/€65 depending on your choices. Welcome news for those living in that neck of the woods where exciting food and drink options are pretty limited. Check out their offer here . 3) Catch Events If quarantine cocktails are more your thing, bespoke event planners Catch Events are making dreams come true right now. Their Quarantini boxes are delivered weekly in the greater Dublin area and every Friday night they hold a live cocktail masterclass on IGTV to help you perfect your Friday night Flirtini (or whichever cocktail they happen to be showcasing that week). There are two boxes available, the Quarantini Box (€40) complete with shaker, measure, two glasses and ingredients to make four cocktails, or the Ingredients Only Box (€25) which just includes the important stuff. Order yours here . 4) 57 The Headline Clanbrassil Street’s 57 The Headline has also diversified with a new drinks delivery service. Delivery costs €5 countrywide and they have an impressive selection of craft beers and wines available, along with a Dingle Gin and Tonic package for €45. The craft beer selection includes mixed boxes from White Hag, Third Barrell, Whiplash and Third Circle Brewing. Have a browse here . 5) Deveney's, Dundrum Dundrum staple Deveney's are also offering a zero contact collection and delivery service should you need to make some unusual additions to your home cocktail bar. We're intrigued by the Akal Chai Rum (€69.90) and the Ancho Reyes Chili Liqueur (€54.90), which could make for an interesting take on the Bloody Mary, but there's a vast selection of excellent wines and beers available too should you be feeling slightly tamer. Owner Ruth is always delighted to tell you what her favourites are this week. Check them out here . 6) Station To Station The guys at Station to Station have been very busy christening their wine selections lately. You could go for the good value 'Covin Collection' - €150 for a mixed case of 12 including eight reds and four whites, or maybe the 'Game of Rhones', featuring six Rhone reds curated for your enjoyment. The Wiseguys Italian Half Dozen (€135) transports us back to the heady days of Ray Liotta and Joe Pesci together in cinematic glory, and they get bonus points for free delivery in Dublin during the lockdown period. Have a look at what they're selling here . 7) Craft Central With no minimum order and €5 for delivery, ordering from Craft Central seems like almost too good an opportunity to expand your craft beer horizons. With options to search by beer style or by brewery, the selection is vast to say the least, but we are particularly feeling the Wylam Imperial Macchiato Double Hazelnut Praline Coffee Porter, which sounds good enough to eat, drink and bath in. Browse their beers here . 8) The Big Romance If freshly poured draft beer is what you're craving, The Big Romance is where you need to be ordering from. All of their beers come in one litre growlers (from €7.50), the equivalent of just under two pints which they advise enjoying fresh or within two days - no problem. There are zero contact delivery or collection options and deposits of €4 on the glassware which is refundable. A small selection of wines are also available in litre bottles (from €16.50) and should your wardrobe need updating they've got t-shirts too. Delivery in Dublin is €3. 9) WineLab The wine on tap guys at Winelab have also entered the home delivery market with their Bottle Project range, designed to complement their tap collection. You can choose from one of their bespoke collections or give them a price point and an idea of the wines you usually enjoy and they will do the rest of the heavy lifting. Selections start at €55 for their Everyday Heroes range (reduced from €80) or go top shelf all the way with the Top Of The Rock selection reduced from €230 to €150. You can also buy a four pack of fizzy liquid fun pop Ramona for €18. See what they've got here . 10) The Dublin Liberties Distillery Another one with free delivery in Dublin, the Dublin Liberties Distillery also donate 10% of their online sales to Age Action which is a nice thought at this weird time. They have an impressive selection of Whiskey ranging from €22 for the Dubliner Whiskey and Honeycomb Liqueur to a whopping €2700 for the Liberties Whiskey King of Hell – 27 Year Old Single Malt. See what they've got here .

  • 5 Things We Want To Cook This Week

    You can take the chef out of the kitchen, but you can fully expect them to start a #covidcooking series on Instagram, where you will be notified every 10 minutes that someone else is "going live". You may or may not be into this, but either way we've picked some of the best recipes we've seen the city's chefs post this week, all of which we're eager to recreate. 1) Darren Hogarty's Blueberry, Raspberry and Vanilla Puff Pastries Chapter One 's pasty chef Darren Hogarty posted Instagram stories of how to make these puff pastries last week and we can think of little else since. They look surprisingly easy to master (big thanks to shop bought pastry) and look as impressive as something from a Parisian boulangerie. We've got this on the list for the next time we can have friends or family around for breakfast - and what a breakfast it will be. Find the instructions in his highlights . 2) Grano's Spicy Polpette We've loved Grano 's meatballs with nduja since they opened so were very happy to see they parted ways with the recipe for the Irish Times. Half pork, half beef, all spicy deliciousness. Find the recipe here , and IGTV's of other classic Grano dishes on their Instagram page . 3) Picado Mexican's Salsa Maduro Picado Mexican 's Lily Ramirez-Foran says her recipe for salsa maduro, one of her signature dishes, has been in her family for generations. Although this type of thing is usually kept secret in Mexican families, she decided to share it with her followers due to the unprecedented times we're living in, and you can get in on the salsa action here . 4) 147 Deli's Smash Burgers The general consensus at the moment seems to be if you haven't made sourdough, banana bread and smash burgers you're not doing lockdown right. If you feel like having a go at the latter we'd suggest heading over to 147 Deli's Instagram highlights for what looks like the only recipe you'll need. 5) Holly Dalton's Chocolate Chip Cookies Holly Dalton (Bobby's wine bar, formerly Gertrude) calls this her "all time favourite chocolate chip cookie recipe", and if that's not enough to have you digging out the flour, butter and sugar, what is. If you fancy trying them you'll find the recipe on her Instagram page.

  • 5 Things We Want To Eat In Dublin This Week

    There’s nothing to be alarmed about. Everything is perfectly fine and there’s zero happening in the world that should make you feel in any way anxious or scared, no sirree. But on the off chance you are feeling a little delicate and in need of some comfort, cookies make everything better, these five in particular... 1) Ice-Cream Cookie Sandwich From Vandal “What did you have for lunch today?” “Oh I just grabbed a sandwich.” If you’re eating somewhere that serves homemade cookies sandwiched together with milk ice-cream, you need to order one or we can’t be friends and you can’t come to Vandal with us. 2) The Chocolate Chip Cookies From Clanbrassil Coffee Shop Clanbrassil Coffee Shop ’s resident pastry chef and baker Pearce Carty Heffernan churns out stacks of these cookies that are the size of a small child’s head and crammed full of chocolate chips. Keep your loo roll. This is the only stock-piling we’re interested in. 3) The Sea Salt Pecan Cookie Sandwich From Mud Bakery We’re low-key obsessed with Mud Bakery ’s range of cakes and bakes which can be found across Dublin, but this sea salt pecan cookie sandwich filled with a squishy vanilla buttercream looks like the start of a whole new obsession. Find them in Thru The Green , Dundrum and in Glasnevin Market on Saturdays. 4) S'mores From Eathos Upping the pretty factor is this raspberry and white chocolate s’more from Eathos , a blanket of coconut marshmallow sandwiched between two crispy sable biscuits. We’ve also heard rumours of a Nutella version. 5) The Cookie Cake From The Dublin Cookie Company It’s hard to believe it’s been 4 years since Dublin’s first dedicated cookie shop, The Dublin Cookie Co. , opened its doors in The Liberties. The café serves lunches, pastries and desserts, as well as biscuits and flavoured milks, but if you’re planning on being very extra, you can order a cookie cake in a range of flavours like oatmeal raisin, chocolate chip, or salted caramel and pecan. All we’re saying is that if we were ever to have to self-isolate, we’d be getting one of these before we do to keep us going through all those Netflix binges. *BONUS* 6) The Double Oreo Milkshake from Three Twenty Ice-Cream Labs We just couldn't leave this one out. If you’re more about the cream than the cookies, this one is for you. While we were sad to see the toasted marshmallow hot chocolate leave Three Twenty ’s menu, we’re taking the fact that it’s been replaced with a thick, creamy cookie milkshake to mean that spring is just around the corner and things will be getting brighter very soon.

  • Our Ultimate Guide To Brunch In Dublin - Part 2

    For a while there we almost thought Sunday Roasts were going to be the new Brunch but nope, the weekend staple reigns supreme in Dublin. In the 11 months since we created our original 'Ultimate Guide to Brunch' , a lot has changed - new openings, new menus, and new opportunities to indulge in the best meal of the week - so we thought it was about time we did a part two. 1. Circa, Terenure Three words: Buttermilk. Fried. Bacon. If that hasn’t made you drop your phone and leg it to Circa in Terenure, we think you’re probably beyond help. Other dishes to get your heart racing (or palpitating erratically) include the black pudding burger, Snickers French toast, and fish tacos. 2. As One, City Quay All day brunch is pretty much our ideal way to spend a day, and As One lets you indulge six days a week. With their spacious and funky dining room overlooking the Liffey and a menu designed to maximise gut health and nutrition, you basically have no reason to ever leave and so many delicious reasons to stay. 3. One Society, Gardiner Street One Society makes deciding where to eat really easy thanks to the fact that they run breakfast, brunch, and lunch menus until 15:00 so you’ll never run out of options. The only decision-making you’ll have to do is deciding between the pan-fried kale on toast that you really need, and the Hangover Stack (pancakes, ricotta, fried eggs, tabasco, and maple syrup) that you really want. 4. Herb Street, Grand Canal Dock Let us take you back in time to the early 2010s when Dublin looked a little different. Nobody could afford to sell a house let alone buy one, disposable cups were still permissible, and brunch wasn’t really that much of a thing. Then along came Herb Street , the grand madam of pancake stacks in the capital. We would suggest that the first indication of economic recovery was when the Saturday morning queue reached 45+ minutes on a sunny day with people waiting for a table on the terrace. 5. Grove Road, Rathmines Located right along the canal, Grove Road has an understated and easy-going vibe, great music, and is a serious contender for the best avocado toast in town, thanks to the addition of feta and the crispiest bacon known to man. Serving brunch, great coffee, and fresh juices every weekend from 09:00 - 16:00. 6. Bread 41, Pearse Street When you stand in the queue at Bread 41 , it’s hard to believe that what used to be an office furniture shop is now one of Dublin’s busiest bakeries and cafés turning out brunch dishes like mushrooms on toast, kimchi pancakes and whopper pastries. The bakery opens at 08:00 on weekends with brunch served from 10:30. Get there early but expect to queue - maybe have a custard tart while you’re waiting. We call that pre-brunch, or prunch. It’s a thing. 7. San Lorenzo's, South Great George's Street Sometimes you want brunch that involves a quiet corner and solitude to read the paper, and sometimes you want loud music and to fleetingly feel that you might actually be cool. We don’t judge. San Lorenzo ’s weekday brunch is a bit more laid-back and refined, but at weekends you can expect lots of buzz and a quick turn-over in tables. The menu is big, and varied and, while you probably won’t have the Coco Pops-coated French toast every weekend, we’d highly recommend giving it a try. 8. Urbanity, Smithfield Coffee roast-house and café Urbanity ’s weekend brunch is a thing of beauty. Big plates packed with colourful food that looks like it should be bad for you but is actually verging on the side of healthy thanks to some imaginative ingredients. Regular dishes include butter bean hummus with aniseed popcorn on sourdough toast, and brown sugar sweet potato waffles with blueberry mascarpone, and salted chocolate caramel. Ooof. 9. The Washerwoman, Glasnevin If, like us, you love the classics but are always up for trying something a little different, The Washerwoman has your back with dishes like nachos with wild boar, wild garlic pancakes with white asparagus and duck eggs, and a waffle sandwich with bacon, fried eggs, and hollandaise. 10. The Orange Goat, Ballsbridge Big, buzzy, and dog-friendly, The Orange Goat on Serpentine Avenue has a funky interior and lovely outdoor seating. The menu covers pretty much everything from porridge to smoked salmon hash to crepes with Nutella. Coffee is from Cloud Picker and their smoothies and juices are really good. 11. Overends Kitchen, Airfield Estate With lots of their meat, vegetables and fruits coming from the estate, Overends Kitchen has a small weekend brunch menu featuring French toast, chorizo eggs, omelettes, think-cut belly bacon, and a brawn salad for the more intrepid eater. One of our favourite things here is the kids’ menu - beans on toast, poached eggs, and a mini-fry, or the under-12s can half a smaller portion of anything from the full menu. There’s also homemade kombucha to keep your energy levels up - perfect after a ramble through the farm and gardens. 12. Wigwam, Abbey Street If you’re looking for somewhere a little different, Wigwam ’s Brazilian flair extends to their weekend brunch menu with dishes like Escondidinho (picture a Latin American style cottage pie with shredded brisket under cassava), and fried chicken with tapioca waffles. They do occasional themed brunches, and there’s a bottomless option which is welcomingly heavy on rum cocktails. 13. Daddy's, Rialto A newbie but already making a mark, Daddy’s is the daytime café located at the front of new Rialto pubr The Circular. Weekend brunch has you covered for staples like pastries and a full Irish, but the Turkish eggs, egg in a cup, and the double-baked croissant pudding with bacon are all calling our name. Plus, anywhere where you can go straight from brunch to bar is a winner. Read our Daddy's once over here . 14. Blas, King's Inn Street Blas is everything we love in a café - cosy, comfortable and boasts a weekend brunch menu that’s small but perfectly formed. Sure, you could grab an acai bowl but if your yoga pants have never actually been to yoga and you just wear them for the stretchy waistband, opt for the Cowboy Breakfast - featherblade steak, two fried eggs, onions, roasted tomato, and rocket all piled-up on sourdough, with some sage potatoes on the side, just in case you were thinking of doing something vaguely productive afterwards. 15. Pot-Bellied Pig, Rathmines A small spot that’s big on personality, Pot-Bellied Pig ’s brunch menu swings from classics like smashed avocado to the downright dirty waffles with maple glazed bacon and caramelised banana. If that isn’t enough to excite you, they hold regular drag brunches - expect cocktails, heels, and lots of colour. If you missed our Ultimate Guide To Brunch Part 1 read it here .

  • Some Things We Ate This Week

    As part of our research in to where to eat the best pancakes on Pancake Tuesday, I took one for the team and headed to Laine My Love for their salted caramel and Nutella special. They were really good, and the only problem is having to wait a year for the next opportunity to eat them - Helen More applause-worthy pancake Tuesday action at As One on City Quay, where two monstrous pancakes were stuffed with Velvet Cloud Sheep's yoghurt and blueberries, and topped with stewed rhubarb, more blueberries and more yoghurt. An exceptional way to start the day, but by the end I was defeated and couldn't finish it - Lisa Another colourful breakfast at Gertrude trying out their new porridge (because you know we love porridge ). Blood orange segments and syrup, whipped yogurt and hazelnut praline equals a total winner - Helen We’re always on the look-out for dog-friendly cafes so stopped in The Orange Goat in Ballsbridge. It’s a big spot with indoor and outdoor seating and was filled with families and players from the nearby hockey club. We had the breakfast bun (sausage, bacon, fried egg on brioche) and toast that was roughly 2 inches thick. Perfect. Coffee is from Cloud Picker. A working lunch at Grove Road Café was just what was needed on a dull Dublin day. They recommended the avo/feta toast with 'extra crispy' bacon, and now we're recommending it. The benchmark for how all bacon should be served - Lisa Lunch in Little Mike’s where we love everything, except the lighting. Starter of squid and chorizo risotto was hearty with just the right amount of paprika kick, and our main was a surf ‘n’ turf platter for three. Salt and butter in quantity - the best way to spend a Sunday - Helen A quick stop in Paella Bar & Co. left us lusting after their chicken croquetas which were perfect ly crispy on the outside and oozingly soft on the inside (we won't mention the sad salad on the side). The menu said they came with aioli, they didn't. We asked for it, and they didn't need it. Plus this might be the most garlicky aioli in the city so proceed with caution unless you're alone and plan on staying like that for the rest of the day - Lisa Mid-week dinner at a very busy Variety Jones . While the chef’s choice menu meant I had to forego my beloved cacio e pepe, I did get my cheesy fix in the form of salt-baked celeriac, lardo, grilled cabbage, with a cheddar mousse, served with sourdough for moppage. It was my dish of the night - Helen

  • Five Spring Pop-Ups You Should Know About

    Residential tenants aren't the only ones being affected by the soaring prices in Dublin, budding restaurateurs are also having a tough time finding an affordable forever home. Enter, the pop-up, the obvious choice for the commercially savvy restaurateur looking to ease their way into the industry and test the waters before the massive commitment and outlay that is a property lease, and there's a few on the horizon that we think you oughta know about. Lil Portie - The Fumbally Stables And Others Hot on the heels of their successful stint in Two Fifty Square in Rathmines, Lil Portie recently set up shop on Sunday evenings in The Fumbally Stables , for a Sunday roast with a fiery Jamaican jerk twist. Their one last weekend was a quick sell out and we're currently waiting for more dates to be announced. Keep an eye on their Instagram for more info and upcoming dates. Goulash House In case the name didn’t clue you in, Goulash House are specialists in beef goulash with potatoes or gnocchi. Croatian Ivan Rakic only arrived here four months ago but wasted no time in bringing his stew made with "the best Irish beef" to the masses. His family business back in Croatia is producing free-range chickens and eggs, and he says he wanted to offer a healthy alternative to fast food and junk food deliveries. Up until now they've been delivery only but they've just launch a weekly pop up every Monday night in The Sweet Spot on Church Road in East Wall. Check them out on Instagram here . Middle Eastern Five If Jordanian food is your thing, and let’s be honest, it really should be, then the folks from Middle Eastern Five have something that will probably be right up your street. Signature dishes include chicken farrog - grilled chicken with tabbouleh and labne, or qatayef asafiri - bite size pancakes stuffed with pistachio nuts and sweet yoghurt. The next Middle Eastern feast takes place in Two Fifty Square in Rathmines on Friday 13th March. Get tickets here . Sticks Marie Claire Digby in the Irish Times called Sticks “one of the most original pop-ups on the Dublin dining scene” and we would have to agree. Mainly influenced by Japanese skewer culture, Jonny Boyle and Kate O’Donohoe serve a seven-course menu at their monthly pop up, solely featuring dishes that can be served on sticks. Previously held in Storyboard, they've moved to The Fumbally Stables for the foreseeable future. March dates have now sold out but there are still tables available for their April and May sessions - guaranteed they won't be there for long though. Tickets are €99 and include drinks pairings for each course. Tickets and more info here . Gursha Unless you've spent the last while hiding out at home you've probably heard of Gursha . The Ethiopian pop up has been a sell out since last summer and recently moved to a new home at Legit Coffee Co. on the North Circular Road in Phibsboro. Reviews so far have been positive to say the least and the menu can be tailored to suit vegetarians or vegans alike, with all dishes also gluten free. There are a few tickets left for select dates in April, although you'll need to move fast. Tickets and more info here . Know about any more pop ups? Let us know by emailing info@allthefood.ie.

  • This Week's Critic Reviews

    In the Irish Examiner this week Leslie Williams is first in with his take on Amy Austin , the new wine bar from John Farrell (777, Dillinger's, formerly Luna), with 777 's Essa Fakhry in the kitchen. He doesn't touch on the somewhat controversial closing of Luna (will be interested to see if other critics do), but thought their Carlingford oysters with kimchi Bloody Mary were "a truly excellent opening shot". A ham hock terrine with foie gras and pickled mushrooms was "nicely balanced", Yellowfin tuna crudo was "good quality" and Dublin Bay prawns in panko breadcrumbs with dill and garlic were "a must order". He was less effusive when it came to the suckling pig belly whose fat needed more rendering, but cheeses were in "excellent condition" and a pear and frangipane tart was "light and airy". He says Amy Austin , are serving "tasty small plates in a buzzy atmosphere" with "flair", and that he was impressed. (Review not currently online but should be here sometime next week) In the Irish Independent Katy McGuinness is predicting a Michelin star for Bastible in Dublin 8, based on a tasting menu that gets it "just right". A shish kebab of ox tongue was "a lush mouthful of smoke and umami", a mouthful of kohlrabi and sorrel sprayed with orange blossom water was "a better, modern version" of the tired sorbet, and she says she could eat the "chewy, intense" sourdough with cultured butter "all day" (ditto). Baked swede with pumpkin seed mole and ginger oil was "subtle and wonderful", and an "Instagrammable" plate of raw Connemara shrimp in a broth of kohlrabi and broccoli with semi-dried tomatoes and horseradish was "a delight". More love for "perfect" quince-lacquered sea trout with potato flatbread and condiments, and dessert of set sheep's milk yoghurt with fermented plum and woodruff was "not too sweet". She says "Cúán Greene's stint at Noma is evident in dishes that feel fresh, vibrant and different for Dublin", giving it 9/10 for food and value. Read her review here . (Read our recent Bastible once over here ) In the Sunday Times Niall Toner is following in Ernie Whalley's footsteps again by doing another review of 3 Leaves in Blackrock Market (clearly they're seeing a new reviewer as a slate wiped clean). No surprises that he was wowed by Santosh Thomas' cooking (as was Ernie ), calling every bite a tiny adventure, and recommending booking a table as fast as you can. Read his review here . (Read our 3 Leaves once over here ) In the Sunday Independent Lucinda O'Sullivan 's back on one of her food safaris, this time on the hunt for all things Asian in Dublin. Her nine chosen destinations include Double 8 in Bray (eh, that's Wicklow), China Sichuan in Sandyford, Nunki Teahouse in Dun Laoghaire and newly opened Kitchen 85 on Marlborough Street. Also getting a mention are Mieko King on Parnell Street (formerly Mr Dinh), street food stall Jaru, Bullet Duck and Dumpling, Shibuyashi in Blanchardstown and newly re-opened Ramen Co (formerly Ramen Kitchen before they " closed " only to reopen with a slightly different name and logo) in Stoneybatter. (And in a new development read it on the Independent's website here - currently for free) In the Irish Daily Mail Tom Doorley apologises for his single diner review of Rinuccini in Kilkenny, saying he couldn't find any mates to "don a nosebag" with, but was entertained by two nuns and a priest at the next table. He calls it a "venerable establishment" having been open for 31 years, and who must be doing something right, and a bowl of cauliflower and gorgonzola soup was "good, in an earthy way". Canelloni were tubes of "silky egg pasta" stuffed with "long-braised beef" and were "well-flavoured", but he doubted the claim of a "fresh tomato sauce" at this time of year, suspecting it was in fact tinned. Things ended less successfully with tiramisu that was "too sweet and too bland", and more blandness in a macchiato, and he pummels the wine list fpr having missing producers and vintages - "which, these days, is hard to fathom". (Review not currently online) In the Irish Times Catherine Cleary says that Ballyvolane House in Cork is "no dusty relic", but "a lovely way to experience the food of home." She describes the dining room as "posh but in a relaxed, friendly way", with cosy candles and a lit fire while dogs run around your feet. She describes the food as "home-cooked" and "lovely", with Garryhinch Wood mushrooms in a cider cream with tarragon on toast making her happy, a rack of lamb with redcurrant gravy soft and buttery, and the vegetarian option of a Savoy cabbage leaf folded over slices of golden beet and Macroom feta with hazelnut dukkah put most other restaurants' vegetarian options to shame. Dessert was a "perfect panna cotta" with boozy plums stewed in their own Bertha’s Revenge sloe gin, and she says this big house is "showcasing how home-cooked food can be done", giving them 9/10. Read her review here . Finally in the Business Post Gillian Nelis was at Michelin-starred Loam in Galway, where almost everything in the seven-course menu was "flawless". Particular high points included chef Enda McAvoy's squid noodles in a shiitake broth seasoned with kombu and smoked fish with a gooey egg in the middle, and a Castlemine beef tartare topped with grated, smoked bone marrow butter and pickled onions, but "underdone" pumpkin with kale sheep's milk yoghurt was "the only duff note". Special mention for their new pastry chef, Lauren Goudeket, who she says is one to watch after a pre-dessert of candied beetroot slices with a rose mousse and rhubarb sorbet, and dessert proper of Jerusalem artichoke ice-cream with a sunflower seed sable and a "divine" miso caramel. She says spending even an hour in Loam will put a smile on your face, and you can read her review here . More next week.

  • This Week's Critic Reviews

    It's a double whammy this week for new opening Kitchen 85 on Marlborough Street, who've managed to bag reviews in the Irish Times and the Irish Independent, both predominantly in praise of the Cantonese restaurant from the same owners as M&L Chinese around the corner. It's also a double whammy for a couple of other restaurants, who've managed to bag a second review from the same critic... In the Irish Independent (who are flip-flopping between what's premium content and what isn't, this week the restaurant review isn't so knock yourself out), Katy McGuinness gave the menu a decent run through, finding the boneless duck with pancakes "excellent" and "nicely crisp", with a plum sauce that was "tangy and less stickily sweet than the norm." The roast pork with honey sauce was "less interesting" and in need of crisper fat, with fried beef and coriander "flavoursome enough", but sizzling squid was bland, rubbery and "not very sizzling". Things got back on track with crisp aubergine in sweet and sour sauce; "soft, yielding, delicious, perfectly balanced", and salt & spicy 'flammulini' (strands of deep-fried mushroom with finely-sliced chilli) were "a crisp revelation, with great batter and subtle mushroom flavour." Singapore noodles were "very good", service was "smiley and delightful", but they missed the spicy kick from M&L. She gives the food 7/10 and value 8/10. Read her review here . In the Irish Times , Catherine Cleary does a very brief overview of the same menu, only trying three dishes (and neither the roast duck or the char siu pork - the signature dishes, natch), but calls it "glamorous", clearly impressed by the "velvet cushions" and "satin tablecloths". She too loved the salt and spicy flammulina, "fried to a golden crackling crisp with a sprinkling of red chillies and salt, like mushroom scratchings with added spice." Crisp batons of aubergine were "silky and soft" and came with "a sweet jam sauce that layers the sharpness of rice vinegar with spice and sugar", and two portions of noodles, one with King prawns, another with chicken, came in a "good lightly spiced sauce", with "crunch and variety". She calls Kitchen 85 "a handsome new addition to a street without a great deal of food competition on it", saying it's "putting the occasion back into Chinese dining". Read her review here . In the Irish Daily Mail Tom Doorley was hot on our heels to Bistro One in Foxrock, where owner Mark Shannon's son Rory has recently returned home from London to head up the kitchen. He calls Shannon junior "a culinary force to be reckoned with", and says he's always loved Bistro One, but now he loves it even more. Pink duck hearts with braised endive boozy prunes and horseradish cream was "a mineral/bitter/sweet/salty riot on the plate", Kilkeel crab (with white and brown meat, finally) was "fabulous" and "a triumph", and chargrilled prawns with fermented black beans, wild garlic, chilli and ginger were "excellent". Ox cheek cooked in stout with buttery mash and wild garlic was "seriously impressive", cod with Lissadell cockles, parsley and garlic butter was "impeccably cooked", and a mini pavlova with blood orange had a crisp shell and a marshmallow interior. He says the theme of it all was "simplicity", which is needed when "the raw materials are this good and there's a chef in the kitchen who understands how to let them speak". He says Bistro One is so discreet that it's easy to miss, but he has to let the cat out of the bag. (Review not currently online but read our Bistro One once over here ). In the Sunday Independent Lucinda O'Sullivan made the unorthodox decision to review Liath for the second time in 10 months, justifying it by the fact that they've since been awarded a Michelin star (presumably what she ate 10 months ago is why they got the star). After describing what sounds a bit like flirty banter between her and "Mr Liath" (Damien Grey), she goes on to describe the "gorgeous non-alcoholic drinks pairing and the "complex" tasting menu, with flavours that hit you "like a bolt of lightning". Highlights included shrimps and sweetcorn with a chilli miso glaze, tarragon oil and lardo ("pure ecstasy"), mushroom charcoal dumplings ("sensational"), and a tartlet of deer tartare on diced foie gras ("superb"). They wrapped up a "stunning evening" with a "gorgeous" blood orange 'bomb' and their famous white chocolate fermented raspberry sphere, and says they're a 10 out of 10 in her book. (Review not currently online) Speaking of multiple reviews, Pickle have pulled it out of the bag again with a second review from Gillian Nelis in the Business Post (the last one was in 2016, a more reasonable gap). They've also had second reviews in the Irish Independent and in The Times - the stuff most restaurants can only dream of. She came to try some of their new dishes, including chicken wings marinated in chilli powder, ginger and black cumin (which tasted as good as they sounded), chargrilled guinea fowl ("cooked beautifully" and "delicately spiced"), and "beautifully seared" spice-crusted scallops with textures of turnip, including a purée, pickled slices and a chutney. Organic wild boar came with shallots, ginger and long pepper and was on the hot end of the spice spectrum, but the buttery paratha for dunking helped. She says chef Sunil Ghai's cooking is "better than ever" and advises booking early and often. Read her review here . In the Sunday Times Niall Toner was at One Pico , and while starters, including a 36-month Parmesan ravioli with Alsace bacon consommé, and cured sea trout with pickled cucumber, buttermilk and trout caviar, were "jaw-dropping", main courses felt "more reserved". Desserts were excellent, but comparing the magic of the starters and the relative sobriety of the mains he wonders if something is being held back. Read his review here . Finally in the Irish Examiner Joe McNamee took a trip to gastropub Mikey Ryan's in Tipperary, for a "delicious" beef and Guinness tart, a "perfectly seasoned" and excellently sourced burger, and a "fine fillet" of pan-fried cod with baby potatoes, buttered greens and a "unifying" creamy beurre blanc. Scampi sounded a bit heavy on the breadcrumbs and not quite to to the standard of those from And Chips a few weeks ago , but triple cooked chips were "superb". He says the only downside of their wonderful mid-week lunch was having to leave, giving the food 8/10 and value 9/10. (Review not currently online but should be soon here ). More next week.

  • 5 Things We Want To Eat In Dublin This Week

    Around this time of the year, we notice a bit of a shift in what’s cropping up on our Instagram feed. While January brings a timeline of salads and vegan food, February tends to be the month when good intentions are shrugged-off, and those heading out between storms are in search of comfort, warmth, and meat. While beef seems to get the most scroll-time, this week we've been seeing a lot of pork dishes that look like they'd make any little piggy feel all warm inside. Here's the five we most want to eat. 1) 'Nduja From Grano ‘Nduja, the highly spiced and spreadable pork salume has made its way onto countless pizza and pasta menus across Dublin in recent months, but this OG version from Grano served over a flame to keep it warm, oily, and pliable enough to smear on to toasted bread, gives the ‘nduja top billing. Just show some restraint with the knife until you have a very high tolerance for spice. 2) The Pork Belly Benedict From Fowl Play Launching this Saturday 29th, Fowl Play has posted some previews of their new brunch menu which includes this monolith of meat under poached eggs and hollandaise, and we’re now counting down the days until we can get our greedy little hands on it. Located inside The Square Ball bar on Hogan Place in Dublin 2, they'll also be launching a bottomless brunch option with a brunch dish and two hours of cocktails and board games for €30 per person. Alcohol and board games - we predict more family arguments and tongue-biting than in the wardrobe section of Ikea, but with vastly improved food options. 3) The Pork Bianco Bolognese From San Lorenzo Is there anything more comforting than pasta? How about pasta with minced pork, white truffle oil, and parmesan. On special in San Lorenzo ’s this week, it looks like the food-equivalent of a hug from your bestie. 4) Pork Skin From Hang Dai If you like roast pork, you know that one of the best bits is the crackling - the layer of fatty pork skin that’s crisped up from intense heat. Hang Dai has taken out the middle-man here with crunchy strips of pork skin fried to a crisp, and served with tangy Velvet Cloud sheep’s milk yogurt for dipping. 5) Sausage Ragu From Riba Riba make their own pasta and this dish of pork sausage ragu covered with a blanket of buffalo mozzarella features silky ribbons of homemade pappardelle. It looks like optimum comfort food for a day when you need to forget you’re in dreary, rainy Dublin. Add a glass of Sangiovese and you could pretend you’re in Sardinia instead of Stillorgan.

  • Where To Find The Best Porridge In Dublin

    Exciting news - porridge is back. Alright it never went away, but the breakfast staple is experiencing a resurgence on Dublin menus that’s elevating it from a safe and cheap add-on to the star of its very own morning show. Here’s where to find the most colourful and flavour-packed bowls in the city right now, perfect for warming you up on a damp, blustery Winter morning. 1) Eathos, Baggot Street One of our go-to spots when we need a bit of colour in our lives, Eathos ’ porridge is pleasingly heavy on the toppings. They vary depending on the seasons, but options like coconut and mango curd, grains, honey, pistachio butter, bananas, almonds, and berries will keep you feeling happy and full well into the afternoon. 2) Lolly and Cooks While the offering can vary a little between locations (and it's not available at all from the kiosk in George’s Street Arcade last time we checked), the porridge from Lolly and Cooks is consistently good, and comes with warming toppings like stewed apple, granola, and Greek yogurt. It almost makes foregoing their cheddar and bacon morning muffins that little bit easier. 3) Grove Road, Rathmines Decision, decisions. Yes, you could go for Grove Road ’s toasted breakfast sandwich (sausage, bacon, fried egg, and tomato relish on toasted sourdough) but you’re going to be able to manage to eat like that what - three, four mornings a week tops? When you need to keep it a bit healthier, the porridge here will make sure you feel like you’re not missing out. Toppings include berries with banana, apple, honey, cinnamon, and seeds, or stewed pear, walnuts, and orange zest. 4) Honey Truffle, Pearse Street Perfect if you’re grabbing breakfast to go between the train and your desk, Honey Truffle 's porridge is made with organic oats from Ballybrado farm in Cahir, Co. Tipperary, and is topped with apple, pear, and hazelnuts. 5) Cocu, Baggot Street Cocu offers porridge to suit whatever mood you’re in, thanks to a long list of add-ons to completely customise your bowl. Sweeten it with agave or fruit compote, then go wild with dried fruits, berries, granola and nut butters. 6) Póg, Tara Street & Batchelor's Walk The team at Póg seem to be able to make any dish look like a Pollock painting and even humble porridge gets the treatment. Sure, it may be tempting to opt for an acai bowl or a stack of their famous pancake, but let’s not lose the run of ourselves altogether. 7) Slice, Stoneybatter Resist the cakes at Slice and go for porridge made with oat milk and topped with peanut butter, seasonal fruits, berries and apple syrup. Warm, filling, and basically feels like having dessert for breakfast - winner. 8) Gertrude, Pearse Street Our favourite thing about porridge is seeing how toppings vary through the seasons. Gertrude has consistently been on top of their porridge game bringing us house made Nutella with strawberries and lemon balm, then plum compote with yogurt and hazelnuts, and now this new addition with walnut praline, blood orange segments and blood orange syrup - basically all of our favourite things. 9) Tang, Abbey Street Nobody will argue that porridge is difficult to make at home, so in order to feel like it’s worth splashing the cash for a bowl from a café you like to feel like you’re getting something that’s better than what you’d whip up in your own kitchen. Step forward Tang , where the bowls are big and packed with toppings like blood orange, granola, fruit, and what may be the best honey nut butter we’ve ever had. 10) Lilliput Stores, Stoneybatter A wholesome winter warmer from Lilliput Stores , this bowl of porridge made with coconut milk is topped with flax seeds and blackcurrant jam. Classic breakfast in classic surroundings. 11) Two Boys Brew, Phibsboro The porridge from Two Boys Brew is big, bold, and very customisable. Slow-cooked in oat milk, you can add three toppings from a line-up of date caramel (which is a mandatory addition as far as we’re concerned), fruits, berries, stewed apples, almond butter, seed mix and yogurt. 12) Laine, My Love, Talbot Street Laine, My Love ’s porridge can brighten up even the darkest of days, mainly thanks to how bright the tart fruit compote piled on top is, while the flaked almonds add crunch. 13) As One, City Quay As we’d expect from As One , a café with wellbeing at its core, their porridge is healthy and hearty combining organic oats with oat milk, grains, caramelised banana, seasonal fruits, and optional dark chocolate or almond butter. 14) Alma, Portobello Like so many of the dishes coming out of the kitchen in Alma you can feel the love in this one. Theirs comes with blueberry compote, seasonal fruits, and toasted almonds - a hug in a bowl. Pro-tip: ask nicely and you might just find that some of that homemade dulce de leche (of pancake and tostada fame) can be added on top. 15) The Ppperpot Café, Powerscourt Townhouse While savoury porridge isn’t a new concept (let us never forget Heston Blumenthal’s snail version), it’s not one we see too often in Dublin. Congee, a traditional Chinese breakfast dish that’s like a savoury rice porridge flavoured with meat or fish, can be found in some restaurants like Ka Shing and Good World, or head over to The Pepperpot Café in Powerscourt Town Centre for savoury porridge made with oats and topped with mushrooms, sautéed leeks, and a poached egg. While on the board as a special recently, they’re considering adding a seasonal savoury porridge as a menu staple. Do you have a porridge spot that can beat these? Let us know by emailing info@allthefood.ie.

  • Some Things We Ate This Week

    Brunch at Alma is always a winner, especially if you can get there early and beat the queues. The Choripan Argento (Argentine chorizo on sourdough with aioli, chimichurri, salsa criolla, fried eggs,onions, and sriracha) was packed with flavour. Let’s face it though, we're here for the pancakes - all in the name of research. When the bowl of buttermilk pancakes with grapes, blood orange (we told you they’re everywhere), orange and brandy mascarpone arrives, your first thought is that you’ll never be able to get through all of tha thomemade dulce de leche but, by the end, you’ll be wondering if you can get away with licking the plate without being too obvious - Helen After a fair bit of hype about the pizzas at recently opened 30 Church Street in Howth we took a trip to try it for ourselves. The base is very good but the toppings on The Buffalo disappointed, with overly salty olives, cheap tasting ham and bland tomato sauce. The 'nduja with sweet peppers and picked red onion was better, but both pizzas were very wet. It's probably still the best pizza on the Northside, but more effort could be made with the toppings (and in seasoning the sauce). Or maybe we're just spoilt by Pi . The rain wasn’t enough to keep the midweek crowds away when we found ourselves in an unexpectedly busy Cirillo’s on Baggot St. While the lighting wasn’t photograph-friendly, the great pizza, anti-pasti, and excellent service made for a very enjoyable evening. We were guests at Eatyard's Taco Battle at Jampark last weekend, and voted for Blasta Street Kitchen 's 'quacko', so were delighted to see them win. It was a riot of crispy Silver Hill duck, fruity pineapple salsa, spicy jalapenos, pickled onion, carrot and coriander, and was like a party in your mouth. If they started making their own tacos we reckon they could actually take over the Irish taco scene - Lisa Killing time before a movie in the café of The Lighthouse Cinema in Smithfield, we were very impressed with this buttery, salty, chocolate and pecan cookie. Any cinema that has fresh cookies and a lack of nacho “cheese” gets the thumbs-up from us - Helen A disappointing breakfast trip to Jamestown Social in Finglas, which looked so promising online. The porridge (at €4.95) was very dull with (unseasonal) berries, pumpkin seeds and honey, not really worth leaving the house for. Jam came in individual plastic packs (why?) and coffee from Java Republic was so bitter that neither of us could finish it. A long overdue trip to Nightmarket in Ranelagh confirmed that's it's a world away from your local Thai takeaway - it's on a different planet altogether. If you want to eat Thai food like they eat in Thailand, this is where you come. We loved the Miang Kham which you roll up and pop in your mouth (below) and the prawn and pork belly with glass noodles, but go easy on the chilli symbols unless you have a very high heat tolerance. Applause too for the non-dumbed down children's menu which is basically adult dishes without the spice - Lisa

  • Where To Eat Pancakes On Pancake Tuesday

    Of all of the Irish food traditions, Pancake Tuesday is probably our favourite. We don't need an excuse to eat pancakes/crepes/hot cakes, but we do enjoy the opportunity once a year to gorge on them (breakfast, lunch and dinner totally acceptable, as long as dinner is savoury - feel free to follow with sweet). If you're not au fait with your kitchen and/or get put off by the first dodgy pancake out of the pan, here's where to go for all the pancake joy with none of the floury, milky, eggy mess, and some of the specials this year are seriously knocking it out of the park. Póg, Tara Street and Bachelor's Walk Póg are the pancakes Queens of Dublin. Their signature protein pancakes come with the option of 30 different toppings (naughty, nice and premium), including chocolate drops, oreos, homemade chia jam and coconut cream, as well as fruit, seeds, yoghurt and pretty much anything else you can imagine throwing on there. Their special protein pancakes menu is available at their Tara Street and Batchelor's Walk locations, and on Pancake Tuesday they've taken the brave move of serving NOTHING but pancakes. See you there. Alma, Portobello Another place worthy of a pancake pilgrimage is family run, Argentinean café Alma in Portobello. Their dulce de leche pancakes with Argentinean caramel sauce, brandy and orange mascarpone, seasonal fruits, orange zest, mint and candied almonds has been a mainstay of the menu since day one and we're pretty sure there would be protests if it ever came off. Tang, Abbey Street Another one of our favourites, Tang on Abbey Street is a riot of colour and flavour. Their buckwheat pancakes are served with Greek yogurt, seasonal fruit (and they're going big on blood orange right now), pecan nuts and their honey and almond butter that frankly we have obsession issues with, and for Pancake Tuesday this year the special comes with vanilla cream cheese, rhubarb, blood orange, candied nuts and honey. Cloud Picker, Pearse Street Cloud Picker are making it very difficult to pass their door today with this pan "cake" with homemade cashew nut butter, jelly and caramelised banana on top, served by the slice. For the purists they're also doing American-style pancakes with rhubarb compote and vanilla crème fraîche. Metro Café, South William Street The ever busy Metro Café on South William Street serve their buttermilk pancakes with honeyed butter and golden syrup for the bargain price of €5.95. You can add berry compote or nutella for another €1.50, and they're on the all day menu so available until 17:00. Lemon Crepe and Coffee Co. Open for an amazing 21 years, Lemon on South William Street is Dublin's original pancake house and still going strong. Expect queues all day on Pancake Tuesday, for one of their 56 different types of crepes, including sweet ones like the Chocolate Supreme with chocolate, strawberries and banana, and savoury ones like the Mexicano with cheddar cheese, guacamole, salsa and tomato. Worth it for the nostalgia apart from anything else. Eathos Baggot Street healthy eating café Eathos specialises in very brightly coloured food, and their pancakes are no exception. On Pancake Tuesday they'll be serving their regular buckwheat pancakes with strawberry and coconut whip, along with one day specials of Nutella and white chocolate dipped honeycomb, and maple cured bacon with syrup. The Cali Kitchen, Dun Laoghaire The Cali Kitchen in Dun Laoghaire doesn't have pancakes as a permanent fixture on the menu, but for Pancake Tuesday they're going all out with four to choose from - classic lemon and sugar, pecan caramelised banana and maple syrup, crispy bacon and house berry compoté, and berry and house chocolate sauce. Now you just need to make the very difficult decision which one to order. Stella Diner, Ranelagh and Union Café, Mount Merrion and Churchtown The Stella Diner and both Union Cafés are giving out pancakes FREE tomorrow, with no purchase necessary. They did the same last year and there were queues out the door at the Stella so prepare yourself for a potential wait. Both Union Cafés will have standalone pancake and topping stations, with one free pancake per person, and they're available from 08:30 - 17:00 in Union Café and 08:00 - 18:00 in the Stella Diner. Fable & Stey, Blackrock Fable and Stey in Blackrock are all about the crepes this year, with sweet and savoury options. These mega looking ones are with poached rhubarb, blood orange, pistachio praline and ginger custard (you might need a minute to take that in), and the savoury option has Gubbeen ham, Gubbeen cheese and wild garlic pesto. They'll also have a veggie savoury option and classic lemon and sugar, but how you could resist either of those first two options is beyond us. Skinny Batch, Lusk Skinny Batch in Lusk make their pancakes with oat milk and they're egg and milk free, so perfect for anyone who's vegan or with dairy/egg allergies. Owner Sharyn Hayden says she made them for a small child she knows who can't eat eggs, and she wanted them to be suitable for lots of people. Their 'skinny stack' comes with either bacon and maple syrup, fruit and whipped cream or nutella and banana. The Cake Café, Pleasants Place The Cake Café on Pleasants Place just off Camden Street is always a good bet for something sweet, and on Tuesday they'll be serving their carrot and walnut pancakes with citrus curd & banana, as well as some specials. One Society, Gardiner Street One Society on Gardiner Street are serving their "taco pancakes", which have nothing to do with tacos and are actually American style fluffy pancakes with crispy smoked bacon, whipped cream, caramelised peaches, thyme and maple syrup, folded to resemble a taco. The name might be a stretch but they look and sound very good. As One, City Quay As One on City Quay are experts at making nourishing food that feels in no way like penance, and their Pancake Tuesday offering is no different. They're serving organic buttermilk pancakes with poached warm pears, blueberries and Velvet Cloud sheep's yogurt, and we think this should never leave the menu. Gertrude, Pearse Street We've long been fans of Gertrude 's fried chicken and pancakes with fermented chilli sauce, but this week they've added rhubarb and custard pancakes to the menu. If ever there was a reason for a revisit... Brother Hubbard North Ending on something really special, Brother Hubbard North are officially winning Pancake Tuesday with this rose-syrup soaked pancake filled with a sweet ricotta-feta filling and sweet nut dukkah. If that's too far removed from your childhood memories, they've also just brought back their lemon meringue pancakes, topped with lemon curd, meringue and pistachios. As it's Pancake Tuesday you could totally justify having both. Did we miss your favourite place for pancakes? Let us know by emailing info@allthefood.ie.

  • This Week's Critic Reviews

    In the Irish Independent this week (which now has a paywall btw so no more free restaurant review content unless you hand over your credit card details), Katy McGuinness *finally* has a good vegan experience at Glas on Chatham Street. This is off the back of giving Beast (now closed, no surprise) a trouncing saying " vegans deserve better ", and a better but not overly enthused take on Sova Vegan Butcher saying "nothing will convince me that meat substitutes are as tasty as meat itself." Glas on the other hand is a "resolutely fake-meat-free zone ... serving tasty food that just happens not to include meat or fish". Whoop! Tempura shimeji mushrooms in beer batter with herb salsa were "utterly delicious", barley risotto with scallions, smoked paprika and Jerusalem artichoke was "nicely balanced", and chickpea and polenta fries came with a fermented black garlic mayo that she'd like to buy by the jar. A few minor complaints - sweetcorn and jalapeno fritters were "on the brink of leaden", rainbow carrots with goats cheese creme fraiche, hazelnut salt and zhug needed more astringency, and baked squash with potato rosti and a crisp hen's egg lacked cohesion. A deconstructed tropical Eton mess with meringue shards, rum, pineapple, coconut cream and passion-fruit sorbet gave no hint it was a vegan version - "a win", and she says she likes what Glas are doing, giving them 8/10 for food and value. Read her review here . In the Irish Times Catherine Cleary ventured to Stepaside for brunch at another new opening, neighbourhood restaurant Woodruff . She describes them as "ambitious", starting with making their own sourdough and churning their own butter - "a league apart" from "the bottled egg and buckets of mayonnaise brunch chancers". A "generous" full Irish, fluffy sweet buttermilk pancakes, and a bowl of granola with Velvet Cloud yoghurt all brought "contentment", while her more lunchy white pollock with seaweed gnocchi, baby leeks and celeriac "exceeds expectations". A Scotch egg with Andarl pork meat, a gooey egg and panko breadcrumbs was "brilliantly executed", and golden crisp chips were "excellent", as was the accompanying kimchi mayonnaise. A crème brûlée with shortbread was "good", and she says Stepaside has got itself "an excellent restaurant", giving it 9/10. Read her review here . In the Irish Examiner Leslie Williams found himself in the position of having a stinking cold but needing to write a restaurant review, so there was only one thing for it - fish and chips. And where does a food critic go when they want fish and chips? Fish Shop , of course. And there's none of your smoked cod or battered sausages around here. We're talking smoked haddock croquettes ("creamy and rich"), squid sliders ("squeaky fresh and tender") and deep-fried brill and John Dory, with batter "feather-light and supremely crispy". Chips were good but could have been crispier (a common Fish Shop complaint), and dessert of lemon posset was "luscious" but refreshing. Much praise too for the wine list that "delivers much more than it promises", and he calls it "a casual but very high quality fish and chips restaurant, giving it 9/10 for food, wine and value. (Review not currently online but should be soon here ) In the Sunday Independent Lucinda O'Sullivan is at her favourite restaurant, where she seems to eat every week according to Instagram, Rasam in Glasthule. She previously said she'd eat her last meal here and describes it as a "home away from home", saying she couldn't wait to try their new menu. Mumbai-style pan-seared scallops with green pea purée and mango chutney were "divine", Delhi magic mushrooms with ginger, garlic and morels were "heavenly", and a Manshari Thali (selection of small dishes) is describes as "a complete meal". Lucinda herself had a second starter instead of a main, Mala Jhinga - large Indian Ocean prawns with mace, cardamom, cream cheese, avocado and greens (no verdict but presumably thumbs up), with a side of okra ("another favourite"). Again just a description of the dessert of saffron-flavoured ice-cream with sweet vermicelli and shiny, glowing basil seeds, but she says "I'd eat in Rasam every night if I could", and she's making a decent effort. (Review not currently online) In the Sunday Times Niall Toner does a bit of a two-fer, having lunch at veggie burger joint Flip in George's Street Arcade and saying he doesn't think you'll get a better meat-free burger in the city. Then it was onto Taza in Artane for dinner, which he seemed to really like, saying local residents are very lucky to have it, but gives it a restrained 3.5 out of 5. Read that here . In the Business Post Gillian Nelis was at newly Michelin-starred The Oak Room in Adare Manor, having the "meal we'd most like to eat this week". She calls it "super-swanky" but "not one bit snooty", saying chef Mike Tweedy goes "above and beyond" when it comes to sourcing. Amongst the things we most want to eat are gougeres with Mossfield cheese, lightly charred langoustines with yogurt and puffed rice, "sexy" potato and onion seed bread, a raviolo of shellfish in a lemongrass and ginger bisque, and a confit duck and foie gras terrine with rhubarb and hazelnuts. Are you booking a table? You haven't even heard about the turbot with Exmoor caviar, clam and tarragon, the beef cheeks with morels and wild garlic, or the jaffa cake-esque dessert of chocolate mousse cake with an orange sorbet. She describes Tweedy's cooking classic flavours with "a few surprises along the way", and of course the wine list gets 5 out of 5. Read her review here . In the Irish Daily Mail Tom Doorley was in an 'ATF on tour' favourite, Iyers in Cork city, home to the most delicious dosas. He calls it some of the best traditional Indian cuisine he's tasted in Ireland, and "the best vegetarian food I've ever had". Dahi samosa chaat was "a fabulous combination" of samosas, chickpeas, puffed rice, tamarind, yoghurt and coriander. A red onion dosa was "ethereally delicate" and came with a "glorious" coconut dip and a spicy, rich tomato one, and spiced rice was "warmly spiced" and served with a poppadum and spiced spinach (all the spice). A mango and banana cake for dessert was "substantial", and he says he can't get over the "sheer quality of the food", the lack of "stodge", and the "value for money", calling it some of the best value food in the country. (Review not currently online) More next week.

  • There's A Taco Battle At Jam Park This Weekend

    We've long lamented the lack of good (freshly-made) tacos in Dublin, so were pretty excited to hear that there's a taco battle taking place at Eatyard 's Jam Park in Swords this weekend. Six taco makers from La Cocina Cuevas , Eatery Park , Fuppin Delish , The Taco Truck , Tacos Don Ron (from Waterford) and Blasta Street Kitchen (from Monaghan) will compete for the title of best taco, and attendees will vote for their favourite. Apart from taco judging, there's also going to be spicy taco-eating contests, sombrero throwing, piñata competitions, limbo and a Mexican bean race (no idea). DJ Marcus O’Laoire has been drafted in as MC, and Bodytonic's DJs will take over later on. Tickets for Eatyard's Taco Battle are €44.54 and include one taco from each vendor, and a drink token for a glass of wine, pint of beer or a spirit and mixer. Children under 12 go free and you can pay as you go for their food. It starts at 16:00 and you can get tickets here . Taco Battle @ Jam Park Airside Retail Park, Swords, Co. Dublin Sat 22nd Feb - 16:00 - 21:00 the-eatyard.com/tacobattle

  • The Ramen Kitchen Is Closing

    The Ramen Kitchen in Stoneybatter is closing, just under a year after it opened on Manor Street last March. The (unsurprisingly) ramen focused restaurant had suffered from mixed reviews over its short lifetime, with Catherine Cleary in the Irish Times calling the gyoza "anaemic" and the ramen broth "dull", scoring it 5/10. Lucinda O'Sullivan in the Sunday Independent however loved it, calling it "a very enjoyable experience". They never managed to attract any other critics. In an Instagram post the team said that "maintaining our rather large menu has brought its challenges", and that they're going to take the restaurant in a new direction, that won't feature ramen. The Ramen Kitchen will close at the end of next week, and a new restaurant will reopen in its place over the coming months. Watch this space.

  • Amy Austin Opens This Thursday

    Amy Austin , the long-awaited wine bar from John Farrell, finally opens on Drury Street this Thursday, with lots of small plates, a single dessert and 16 wines on tap. It's next door to ill-fated Luna which closed last year , and where tiny café Sasha House Petite used to be. Essa Fakhry, from Farrell's other restaurant 777 , ended up devising the food menu with new arrival to the island Matt Raynor, most recently at Kudu in London. The food spans cold plates like Carlingford Oysters with kimchi bloody mary and Andarl organic ham hock terrine, foie gras and soy pickled Ard Mhacha shiitake, to hot plates including suckling pig belly, pickled hispi cabbage, and bacon crème fraîche, and beef cheek ragu with fried polenta and parmesan cream. The single dessert for opening is a poached pear & frangipane tart with chantilly, but this will change with the seasons. Cheese and charcuterie will also be available, including lardo on toast. The entire wine list is from Winelab, with white, red and orange wines on tap (priced €6 - €13 a glass), as well as a bottle list featuring some big hitters from the US and Burgundy, and there's 25% off the whole wine list on Monday and Tuesday. There's also a good range of non-alcoholic options, with five non-alcoholic wines from German winemaker Leitz, Heineken zero and a Seedlip G+T. Rose O'Toole (formerly at Aimsir) has come on board as manager, and is hoping to add to their cocktails on tap range with some of her own creations. Amy Austin seats less than 30 people, with much of the seating facing the windows for prime people watching, and there's a central table that seats eight. Bookings will only be taken for four or more people, and in keeping with the relaxed environment they're trying to create, dogs are welcome. Amy Austin opens this Thursday, and will open Monday - Saturday from 5pm - late, with lunch starting in March. From midday till 18:00 two plates will be priced at €23, or €28 with dessert. And if you're wondering where the name Amy Austin came from, as well as the inspiration for the "I love you so much" graffiti outside Farrell's restaurants of late, get the full story here . Amy Austin Unit 1, Drury Street Car Park, Dublin 2 Mon - Sat 12:00 - Late (from March) Ph: 01 5486255 www.amyaustin.ie

  • This Week's Critic Reviews

    In this weekend's Irish Independent Katy McGuinness is paddy last into Allta , but the team are going out on a high as she says their scallop dish will have the Michelin inspectors excited. There's lots to be complimented, including the "perfect-height and super-comfortable" stools, "sensational" Gubeen cappelletti, and "extraordinary" miso shiitake butter. More love for the Instagram-friendly spider-crab bigoli, "perfect strands of fresh pasta in a rich bisque made even richer by the perfect confit egg at its centre", broccoli with goat's curd and pickled green tomato had great flavours albeit a stingy portion, but the scallop with gooseberry beurre blanc and hazelnut was her dish of the night (and of the year so far). The chicken scarpinocc was "the only dud dish" - stop the lights! - calling it "crude", "unsubtle" and "unpleasant", but they loved the nitro milk ice-cream with white chocolate, smoked honey and sea buckthorn. Another comment on the "steep" wine prices, but she says "I like Allta; it feels different for Dublin, in a good way. It's very much its own place", giving it 9/10 for food and ambience and 8 for value. Read her review here . (Read our Allta once over here ) In the Irish Times Catherine Cleary had the "loveliest of lunches" in Blackrock's newest bistro, Volpe Nera . Sea bream and blood orange crudo brought together winter and spring "so beautifully", cod with beluga lentils, lardo and a parsley puree was a "lovely dish", and her own (surprising) choice of slow-cooked short ribs came with horseradish and a wedge of "life-enhancing" crispy polenta, "finished glassy on the top like a creme brulee". Desserts kept the standard up, with her malt panna cotta so good she wants it to be "the only iteration of the wobbly milky favourite" from now on, and a chocolate mousse was given a Terry's Chocolate Orange spin with a citrus marmalade at the bottom. She says they left refreshed and happy, thinking that good things are happening here, and gives them 9/10. Read her review here . In the Sunday Independent Lucinda O'Sullivan goes on a Dublin city food safari, looking for "'big game' at reasonable prices". She finds "almost perfect" paella and "big, silky, crispy" chicken croquetas at Paella Bar & Co on Pearse Street, and "silky ... delicious ... flavoursome" dumplings at Little Dumpling on Little Mary Street, but fared less successful at Krewe on Capel Street where due to a myraid of different menus for different times of the day she couldn't order anything she wanted - imagine being a fly on the wall for that one. She settled for a Nola benedict ("a yawn"), blackened chicken and waffles ("dry as dust"), and "robust" cauliflower bits which did nothing to help the cause. Next up was Vandal in Dublin 8, which she describes as "a daytime oasis". A mezze platter was "lovely", and Belgian waffles the best she's had. Onto The Circular in Rialto, where it doesn't sound like she ate anything, she just describes what's on the menu, and they finished in Zaytoon , with a "great-looking Barg" - a fillet of Irish beef with saffron and spices on flatbread, and peppers stuffed with rice, bulghar, garlic and herbs, roasted in tomato sauce, saying she was "really impressed". (Supposedly these reviews will now be going online as part of the Indo's 'premium content' - i.e. you'll have to subscribe to read it, but as of yet it's not up there. Not the best start for convincing people to cough up) In the Business Post Gillian Nelis reviews the Food For Thought charity dinner at Circa a few weeks ago, with chefs from Potager , Dax and Ananda in the kitchen amongst others. Headed up by Daniel Hannigan, head chef at Mister S , he and his fellow chefs at the event were all finalists in the 2019 Euro-Toques young chef of the year awards, and Gillian says that whatever's happening in politics, "at least we know we're going to eat well in the future". Aloo tikki chaat with chickpeas, pomegranate, tamarind, mint chutney and Velvet Cloud sheep’s yogurt was "a winning start", octopus with romesco, hazelnut and lovage was surprisngly un-rubbery, and "perfectly seared", and smoked duck satay was "the kind of food you could only dream about being able to pick up after a few pints". (c) Ruth Calder-Potts More praise for the refined fish course of cod and mussels in a Muscade sauce, and venison to follow with violet artichokes and a "superb marinade", but it was the celery based dessert that stole the show. Gráinne Mullins had made a financier of caramelised celery and brown butter, served it with a brown butter and celeraic ice cream and a brown butter foam, and topped it with sugared celery strands, and she calls it "hands-down, one of the most delicious, inventive and different desserts I’ve ever had". She says she'd eat the whole meal again with little prompting and advises keeping an eye on FFT's social channels for news of the next one. In the Sunday Times Niall Toner joins the ranks of Tiller + Grain devotees, after experiencing chef Clair Dowling's crystal focus on flavours, and eating that's "to die for". Read his hunger-inducing salad descriptions here , and if you haven't been there yet do something nice for yourself this week. In the Irish Examiner Joe McNamee drove all the way from Cork to Waterford for fish and chips, so it's a good thing they were up there with the best he's tasted. There were at Eunice Power's And Chips in Dungarvan and it sounds like they gave the menu a decent run through. That fish was cod, "pearlescent, steaming hot fish contrasting with crunchy batter" with the "excellent" chips "handcut, crisp ... with steaming, floury hearts". Scampi had "superb, succulent, salty/sweet prawn meat", a grilled, free-range chicken burger was "buttermilk-brined" and "tender", and chicken goujons with "flavoursome flesh" made up for "culinary crimes committed to kids' menus" across the country. Taco fries had a "sticky, gooey, savoury melange of chilli beef mince, cheese and taco mayo", and a falafel flatbread with bread from a nearby Syrian bakery was "delicious". He says he's looking forward to returning when the weather's less baltic to have fish and chips al fresco, legs dangling over the quay. Review not online but should be soon here . Finally in the Irish Daily Mail Tom Doorley is reviewing a restaurant just slightly out of Bus Eiréann's travel zone - Darby's in London, where Irish expat Robin Gill is by all accounts owning it. Sounds like Darby's is just as impressive as his other openings, The Dairy and Sorella , with smoked eel Gildas "an improvement on the original", Baron Bigod cheese on sourdough with truffle "celestial", and stracciatella with hay-smoked beetroot and hazelnuts "simply perfect". Silky papardelle with Dexter beef ragu was "so correct", Highland shortrib beef with pickle and mustard was reminiscent of a New York Jewish deli, and a choux bun for dessert filled with cream and orange curd was "tart and sweet and bitter all in one". He says flawless is rarely a word he can apply to a meal, but it's feel only right to apply it here. (Review not currently online) More next week.

  • Stone Pizzeria Opens In Stoneybatter

    The Stoneybatter food boom continues, with the opening of new pizzeria Stone on Manor Street. It's the first restaurant from owners Cian O'Colmain and Mary O'Mahony, who say they "just love pizza" and saw potential for a Stoneybatter pizzeria. The Dublin 7 neighbourhood has had a pizza shaped hole since Cotto closed this time last year, and Stone has been in the works for about the same amount of time. Alessio Torre, formerly of Pi and Rita's in Ranelagh, has been brought in as head chef, and the Puglian who's been making pizza for over 15 years calls his style "pizza alla Pugliese" - similar to Neapolitan, which is what Pi and Rita's both specialise in. The menu features bruschetta, salads and cured meats, as well as classic pizzas like the 'Carne' with San Marzano tomato, basil, Fior di Latte, pepperoni, Italian fennel sausage, pancetta, chilli oil and grana padano, and the 'Nduja' with San Marzano tomato, basil, Fior di Latte, nduja, ricotta, honey, extra virgin olive oil and grana padano. Desserts are typically Italian, with tiramisu, affogato, panna cotta and gelato. Stone is open from Tuesday - Sunday for dinner, with lunch from Friday - Sunday, and they cater for vegetarians, vegans and coeliacs. You can see the full menu on their wesite. Stone Unit 1, Norseman Court, Manor Street, Stoneybatter, Dublin 7 Tue - Thu 17:00 - 22:00. Fri - Sat 12:00 - 22:00. Sun 12:00 - 20:00 Ph: +353 1 6719827 www.stonedublin.com

  • 5 Things We Want To Eat In Dublin This Week

    Dublin took another battering this weekend; it was frosty, cold, hostile, and made us quite unsettled. Yes, we’re talking about the election. What's going to happen next is anyone's guess, but we don’t think anyone is sad to see the back of the campaign cheese fest. If your first thought on reading that was “mmmmh… cheese fest”, we have just the thing to focus your attention back on the important things in life - like pizza. Here's 5 we're salivating over this week. 1) The Portobello From Pi We’re kicking off with a controversial one - a pizza bianca. What this pie from Pi lacks in crushed tomato it more than makes up for in toppings. In fact, it’s almost hard to see the cheese under all that but trust us, it’s bursting with Grana Padano, Taleggio (the best of all the pizza cheeses - fact), spinach, all the shrooms (portobello and pickled shimeji), and lots of fresh herbs. Completely gets our vote. 2) The Pepperoni From 30 Church Street While 30 Church Street serve steak and seafood, it’s their wood-fired pizza that people keep telling us about. Based in what used to be Boqueria overlooking St. Mary’s Abbey (and graveyard!) and Howth harbour, the view looks as good as the pizza. On Wednesday nights a pizza and a glass of house wine is €15 which is the only economic policy we need to know about. 3) Mortadella Focaccia From Uno Bear with us here. While this isn’t technically a pizza, it’s a focaccia base from funky Uno Pizza in Rathmines draped with slices of pistachioed mortadella. For €1 extra, you can add mozzarella so we’ve decided that secures its spot on our pizza ballot. 4) The Margherita from Forge Wood Fired Pizza Originating in Castlegregory, Forge Wood Fired Pizza  hits the M7 each week and opens as a pop-up in Churchtown Stores , the hardware store-turned-pub in Rathmines, from 5pm every Wednesday to Sunday. Some of the best things in this country start in Kerry and end up in Dublin, and we can’t even bring ourselves to making an election-based joke about that just yet. The menu's a little too similar to Pi 's for our liking, but reports are very good. 5) Speck And Three Cheese Pizza From Sano We promised you cheese, and unlike some of our newly-elected representatives we always keep our promises. Sano in Temple Bar (and possibly a second location coming to D’Olier Street soon, more when we have it) posted this to Instagram lately and it’s basically all the cheese (mozzarella, taleggio, AND stracciatella) with speck and hazelnuts. We’d prefer to see this on every lamppost in the city.

  • The Best Restaurants To Order From On Valentine's Day

    Let's face facts. Valentine's Day is probably (okay definitely) the worst night in the calendar year to set foot in most restaurants. Jacked up prices, more courses than you want on a date night, canoodling couples at every angle, and a strictly enforced time limit on your table. No thanks. Pick any other night except the 14th if you feel V-Day isn't complete without a hand-holding trip to a restaurant, and do like we're going to do instead - buy a very nice bottle of wine, get that movie lined up you've wanted to watch for months, and get some really good food delivered. These are our top recommendations for where to order food from this Valentine's Day, with thanks to Just Eat . (c) Melanie Mullan / All The Food Sprezzatura, Dublin 8 Delivery areas: Dublin 2, Dublin 4, Dublin 6, Dublin 8 Sprezzatura shot onto the scene in October last year but already feels like it's been here forever. Our news story on Dublin getting a handmade pasta bar became one of our most read articles of the year, and they seem to be upping the ante every month. We loved the tagliatelle with wild mushrooms and the gnocchi with ricotta and pine nuts, but have earmarked the pappardelle with fennel sausage ragu for our next order. Read our Sprezzatura once over here . Order their freshly made pasta for delivery here . (c) Melanie Mullan / All The Food Fowl Play, Grand Canal Dock Delivery areas: Dublin 1, Dublin 2, Dublin 4, Dublin 8, Grand Canal Dock Fowl Play changed Dublin's chicken game in 2016 when they brought a charcoal rotisserie and grill, and a Texas wood-fired smoker into the back of the Square Ball pub on Hogan Place. Their commitment to only using free-range chicken just made us love them more, and it's the only place to head for when you want real deal rotisserie chicken, Louisiana hot chicken wings, and the chicken burger that John and Sally McKenna called their " dish of the year " last year. Order from Fowl Play here . (c) Melanie Mullan / All The Food Michie Sushi, Ranelagh and Sandyford Delivery areas: Dublin 2, Dublin 4, Dublin 6, Dublin 16, South County Dublin Michie Sushi has long been the place to satisfy sushi cravings. Ours is an inside out fire dragon roll with seven spice, eel, avocado and teriyaki sauce, some crispy salmon maki with spring onion and mayonnaise, and don't forget the spicy tuna temaki. They also do the ever reliable katsu curry, yaki soba and a seared beef salad in case you're in a relationship with someone who sidesteps sushi. Pro tip: pair it with a good bottle of sake or dry sherry to take your V-Day delivery to the next level. Order from Michie Sushi here . (c) Melanie Mullan / All The Food Yeeros Greek Souvlaki Bar, Glasnevin Delivery areas: Dublin 1, Dublin 2, Dublin 3, Dublin 4, Dublin 7, Dublin 9, Dublin 11, Dublin 15, Greek food is not easy to come by in Dublin, never mind good Greek food, which is why you need to bookmark Yeeros . Stick on Mamma Mia 2, turn the heating up high, and eat your fill of feta in filo pasty, stuffed vine leaves, spanakopitakia and souvlaki, with a side of Greek salad and some loukoumades for dessert (puffed doughnut rings drizzled with honey, cinnamon and walnuts). Plate smashing optional. Order from Yeeros here . (c) Melanie Mullan / All The Food Zero Zero Pizza, Dun Laoghaire Areas covered: South County Dublin In the mood for Neapolitan, wood-fired pizza, topped with tangy Italian tomato sauce, buffalo mozzarella and basil? Or maybe an Nduja Bianco with spicy Calabrian sausage, basil, white onion and balsamic? Dun Laoghaire's neighbourhood pizzeria Zero Zero Pizza is your South County Dublin go-to. Originally starting as a market stall, they moved into bricks and mortar on Patrick Street in 2017, and to our immense joy they also deliver. Get picking your pizza here . (c) Melanie Mullan / All The Food Pasha Turkish Grill, Dorset Street Delivery areas: Dublin 1, Dublin 3, Dublin 7, Dublin 9 When we saw that one of our favourite restaurant managers, Talha Pasha from Michael's in Mount Merrion, had been frequenting a Turkish kebab shop on the Northside we had to know more. Turns out Pakistani-born Talha and his friends regularly cross the city for Pasha's lamb shish, charcoal chicken, homemade breads and sauces, saying; "the quality of food is excellent, fresh and delicious. They also make their own breads while most places use frozen. Everything is cooked to order so it can take time but it's worth it." We are well and truly sold. Order from Pasha Turkish Grill here . (c) Melanie Mullan / All The Food Wow Burger Areas covered: Dublin 1, Dublin 2, Dublin 4, Dublin 6, Dublin 7, Dublin 8, Dublin 9, Dublin 18, Dublin 24, South County Dublin It's Friday night. You've had a long week. You just want a burger (and if you're contemplating ordering burgers on Valentine's Day you're probably quite comfortable in your relationship - good for you). Wow Burger have this situation covered, and not just with bacon cheese burgers and garlic butter fries. They've also teamed up with Ben and Jerry's for the month of February to create the 'caramel chew chew shake' - a mix of soft whip caramel ice-cream and chocolate heart sprinkles. If ordering your better half one of those doesn't say romance then what does. Order from Wow Burger here . (c) Melanie Mullan / All The Food Madina Street Food Co, City Centre Delivery areas: Dublin 1, Dublin 2, Dublin 3, Dublin 4, Dublin 7, Dublin 8, Dublin 9 I'ts a scientific fact that Dublin needs more dosas. It's almost impossible to find somewhere making the Southern Indian, thin, crispy pancakes made from fermented rice batter, usually served with sambar (a lentil and vegetable based stew) and Indian chutneys. Luckily there is one place we can head for when the dosa craving hits - Madina Street Food Co. on Mary Street. Go for plain, masala or paneer, and we advise ordering more than you think you'll eat, as once you pop it's hard to stop. We're also very partial to a 'samosa chana chatt' - various types of savoury snacks (this one with samosas) usually found by the roadside in Indian - and some pani puri - gobstopper-like semoli balls filled with tamarind chutney, potato, onion and chickpeas. Order from Madina Street Food Company here . (c) Melanie Mullan / All The Food Fish Shack, City Centre & Sandycove Delivery areas: Dublin 1, Dublin 2, Dublin 6, Dublin 7, Dublin 8, South County Dublin Planning a more upmarket Valentine's night? Maybe even setting the table? Go for Fish Shack for seafood chowder, scampi or fried calamari with chilli jam. Maybe an order of shrimp nachos to share. If that all sounds too fancy you can also opt for fish and chips on the couch. Order from Fish Shack city centre here or from Sandycove here . (c) Melanie Mullan / All The Food Indie Spice Grill, Sandymount Delivery areas: Dublin 1, Dublin 2, Dublin 4, Dublin 6 If you're looking for a bit of heat this Valentine's Day, but your local Indian tends to leave you in a food coma, check out Indie Spice Grill in Sandymount. They pride themselves on regional Indian food "made healthy", using lean cuts of meat and lots of pulses, so choose wisely and you'll be able for dessert. We love the Aloo Tikki Chat (crispy potato with pomegranate, ginger, green chilli, coriander and honey yoghurt), Sigri lamb chops with a trio of chutneys, and the goat's cheese and fig naan, and they'll deliver beer and wine too if you've found yourself in a jam. Order from Indie Spice here . (c) Melanie Mullan / All The Food This article is in partnership with justeat.ie , Ireland’s leading marketplace for online food ordering and delivery, with over 2,100 takeaway restaurants and over 40 cuisines online and on the app. Order on just-eat.ie or download the Just Eat app for delivery to your home or office. You can also follow Just Eat on Facebook , Twitter or Instagram .

  • The Breakfast Roll Is Back And It's Better

    If there was a food that was symbolic of the Celtic Tiger era it was the lowly breakfast roll, synonymous with the building boom. Convenience stores and delis across the city saw queues of sturdy construction workers eager to get their hands on the fat-filled Irish delicacy, which earned its place alongside the chicken fillet roll in Irish food folklore before being relegated to the history books along with the bulging property supplement of the Indo. It still exists, but its popularity dwindled significantly as Dublin became ever more cosmopolitan a city, but recently we're seeing something of a breakfast roll revival. Here are a few of our upgraded favourites. The Breakfast Naan At Bread 41 A homage to the breakfast naan made famous by London’s Dishoom chain, Bread 41 ’s breakfast naan offers soakage that's in a league of its own. Cooked to order in their wood fired oven, it takes everything good about the breakfast roll and makes it around 100 times better. The Breakfast Roll At Gertrude One for the old school breakfast roll lovers, the team at Gertrude have kept it simple with a crunchy baguette filled with smashed black pudding, bacon, sausage, fried eggs and shakshuka ketchup. Apart from the upgraded baguette, the pimped up ketchup and the infinitely better meat quality, this is as close to the original as we've found, and yet so much posher. The Encinitas Breakfast Burrito At The Revolution, Rathgar If the bottomless mimosas are not enough to draw you to Rathgar for brunch then perhaps the breakfast burrito from The Revolution will do the trick. Sausage, bacon, scrambled eggs, spiced potato cubes, mozzarella & avocado are wrapped in a warm tortilla and loaded with jalapeno salsa - Mexican vibes with Irish inspiration. The Breakfast Blaa At The Commons At Moli One for the more cultured among us, the breakfast blaa at The Commons at MoLI goes back to our (Waterford) roots with a fried free-range egg, sausage, bacon, and home-made brown sauce in a fluffy Blaa. Take a walk around the Museum of Literature afterwards - we're offering a prize to the person who finds the earliest historical mention of the breakfast roll. The Brunch Burger At Bang Bang The now legendary brunch burger from Bang Bang in Phibsboro makes the list because although it's called a burger, it is in fact more of a cylindrical breakfast roll. With black pudding, sausages, rashers and a fried egg, topped with cheese, lettuce, mayo and Bang Bang's homemade relish, if this won't cure a hangover nothing will. The Breakfast Sandwich At Meltdown Meltdown have nailed the breakfast toastie with this combination of brown soda bread filled with a sausage patty, fried egg, relish and cream cheese, pan-fried until crispy. A very welcome improvement on the original. The Vegan Breakfast Muffin At The Vegan Sandwich Company Not all breakfast rolls are created equal, and this one from the Vegan Sandwich Company is for your vegan friend who still has a hankering for all the starch and fat of a breakfast roll without the meat. This one has vegan sausage, vegan bacon, vegan 'cheeze' and a 'freshly made vegan egg'. So many questions... The California Breakfast Roll From Angelina's Deli A lighter take on the classic, the California Roll from Angelina’s still delivers on taste. Griddled eggs with bacon, avocado, rocket, cheese, and hot sauce make for a longer lifespan alternative to the usual suspects. The Breakfast Bap From Five Points Caramelised onions, Whole Hoggs sausages and fluffy scrambled eggs on a brioche bun result in a breakfast bap of luxury that would make any self-respecting builder swoon. Fair to say that Five Points has nailed it with this one. Did we miss your favourite upgraded breakfast roll? Let us know by emailing info@allthefood.ie.

  • Where To Eat Meat In Dublin

    Ireland’s relationship with food is evolving. While the meat-and-two-veg approach served us well for decades, lots of factors (economical, environmental, ethical, health, and maybe even a little horse-meat scandal here and there) have meant people are thinking more about how much meat they eat, how it’s processed, and where it comes from. While we’re not here to start an argument on the merits of a plant-based diet over omnivorous on your body and the environment (this isn’t Twitter), there’s no denying that people are eating meat less often, and when they do they're opting for the best - a life strategy we are very much in favour of. Here's where we go when we want well-sourced, well-cooked meat for a serious treat. Mister S One of the newest contenders on the Dublin meat scene, Mister S is the only name you need to know when it comes to barbecued meats in a fast, casual environment. The smoked beef short rib and Andarl Farm tomahawk pork steak are must orders, but we also love the organic chicken thighs with romesco. Bring friends. Order it all. Read our Mister S once over here . Bujo BuJo in Sandymount only serve grass-fed Irish beef as part of their quest for quality and sustainability. Such is their commitment to their custom blend of fresh ingredients in their beef patties, when they ran out recently they opted to serve only their vegan and vegetarian burgers, instead of settling for a lesser cut of beef. We approve. And if you have any vegan or veggie friends we guarantee they'll be very happy with the offering here, which includes the Beyond Meat burger. The Chop House Dublin 4 gastropub The Chop House definitely doesn’t get as much coverage as it deserves, but tends to pack in the regulars and match-goers. The focus is on beef, but there’s no shortage of pork, lamb, duck, venison and chicken, with suppliers name checked throughout the menu. There’s lots of early bird and lighter options but if getting the meat-sweats isn’t a concern, the 1kg Côte de Boeuf with garlic green beans, twice-cooked chips, onion marmalade and a choice of sauce is one of the best in Dublin. FX Buckley There are plenty of restaurants serving steak that you could easily bring a vegetarian or vegan friend along to, but FX Buckley isn’t one of those. When you walk in, you’re likely to see a diagram on top of your menu showing what cuts of meat come from what part of the unsuspecting cow, or find a cabinet packed full of dry-ageing fillets. The steaks are cooked quickly on a very hot charcoal grill for great flavour and texture, and they have several locations around Dublin but we particularly like the atmosphere in the Temple Bar location. Featherblade Another great restaurant that deserves more love, Featherblade on Dawson Street will serve you a grass-fed Irish steak for as little as €14, proving that you can combine quality and value, even in Dublin city centre. Or double-up on the meat and go for their sugar-pit bacon cheeseburger. The Butcher Grill From the same stable as Dillinger’s and 777, The Butcher Grill in Ranelagh does exactly what it says on the tin, with Tom Doorley describing a recent meal there as “marvellous” in his Irish Daily Mail  review at the weekend. Sunday lunch at €19 per person is great value, but it does include the unusual addition of smoky beans. The wine list is pretty decent, which is good because you’ll need something to wash down that €90 24oz Chateaubriand for two. Shanahan's On The Green A Dublin institute which often takes a ribbing for its popularity amongst American tourists who like to splash the cash. Yes, Shanahan’s is definitely on the expensive side but they do an amazing range of steaks, and their mashed potato alone is worth the visit. Tomahawk Steakhouse The basement-level Tomahawk Steakhouse is in the same building in Temple Bar that houses Roberta’s - also part of the Press-Up Group - but is a testament to substance over style that we don’t always see from the hospitality group. The interior is understated leather and wood, and the menu is heavy on steak, charcuterie, and pork. Maybe not as much a sister-restaurant to other Press Up premises, more of an attractive second cousin who minds the coats while everyone else is on the dance floor. Michael's and Little Mike's We’re sending you to Michael’s for meat. Hear us out. Yes, it’s one of the best places in the country for fish and our hearts will always belong to those iconic seafood platters, but the mix of quality suppliers and owner/head chef Gaz Smith’s commitment to using nothing but the best ingredients means that pork, lamb, beef, and duck often feature on the menu. If you can't resist the fish, order a steak, then sweet-talk manager Talha into making it surf ‘n’ turf. And get chips. Always get the chips. 147 Deli Proof that getting good quality meat doesn’t have to be a formal affair that costs the earth is 147 Deli on Parnell Street. Sandwiches and wraps are packed with house-cooked meats sourced from local craft butchers, and their Instagram account is like an homage to great ingredients. Their melts are infamous, like this one with overnight braised brisket, watercress mayonnaise, confit garlic mushrooms, pine nuts, mature white cheddar, and rocket with a side of madeira gravy

  • 10 Classic Dublin Restaurants That Are Still Killing It

    We spend a lot of time reporting on the 'new' (the first three letters of 'news') and there's no doubting that you guys love a new opening, but we're often asked about restaurants that have been open a long time that are still kicking ass. The honest answer is there aren't many old-timers that get us excited to get up, get out and spend our money, and with the standard of food in Dublin shooting higher each year, much of the old guard have struggled to keep up. Some however seem to be constantly reinventing, innovating and pushing harder than ever, making them feel just as relevant as any hype-inducing new opening, and it's these places that we'll be giving our money to time and time again. For this feature we stuck to restaurants over 10 years old, but we could (and will) give you another list of recessionary restaurants which are as good as they've ever been, around the 5-8 year-old mark. Chapter One Chapter One feels like the Grandaddy of classic restaurants, the one who shows everyone else how to do it. It's hard to believe it's been sitting on Parnell Square since 1992, because nothing about it feels old-fashioned or dated - if anything the team here seem to be at the top of their game. The clientele are extremely varied in age and profile, but what everyone has in common is they come here for a proper treat. The laid back, friendly staff seem to be remarked upon by everyone who walks through the door, the food is poised but fun, using much of the island's best ingredients, and they're proof that Michelin-stars don't have to mean stuffiness. Dax Soothing, Irish/French restaurant Dax on Pembroke Street feels like descending the stairs into a cave somewhere in the Loire Valley. It feels old-school in the nicest possible way, with staff and owner Olivier doing everything possible to make diners feels relaxed and taken care of. Dax has been there since 2005, managing to stay open through the recession when boozy lunches were more frowned upon than Graham Linehan's recent Twitter antics, but current head chef Graham Neville only came on board in 2017. Last year he was named "best chef in Ireland 2019" at the RAI Awards , with Dax named "best restaurant in Dublin", showing that the cream always rises to the top. Peploe's Peploe's on St. Stephen's Green has never struggled to attract customers, but the clientele have generally been of an older, monied demographic, or the lunching-ladies-sipping-prosecco type. Last year they had something of a reinvention when chef Graeme Dodrill took over the kitchen, turning the focus strongly onto Irish producers and introducing a trolley for carving chateaubriand, côte de boeuf and legs of lamb. A flutter of critics followed, each more impressed than the last, and it's harder than ever to get a table at peak times.  One Pico One Pico has always sat somewhat in the shadow of sibling The Greenhouse , which achieved the incredible accolade of two Michelin stars at last October's awards, but lately they seem intent on stepping up the game and getting noticed more, and it's working. Recently several critics have bemoaned the fact that it doesn't have a star of its own, and the hasselback potatoes must be the best (if not the only) ones in the city. Monty's of Kathmandu Open since 1997, Monty's of Kathmandu is one of the only reasons to look for food in Temple Bar. Run by husband and wife team Shiva and Lina, they specialise in traditional Nepalese food, like Jyogi Bhat (Nepalese biryani), Ledo Bedo (traditional Nepalese curry) and kalo dahl. Don't miss the momo's with achar (chicken or vegetable dumplings with barbecued tomato and coriander chutney), and the carrot halwa for dessert (gajar ka halwa). There's also an impressive wine cellar downstairs - ask for a tour. L. Mulligan Grocer Stoneybatter's  L. Mulligan Grocer is open ten years this year, and feels like Dublin's original gastropub. Sure we had others before it, but nowhere that did it like this. Their opening stance against serving mass market beers (and mass market food) has stood the test of time, and it's one of the most interesting places in Dublin to go for a drink. The food menu never stands still with the kitchen team evangelical about using Irish, seasonal produce, to the point where they regularly send orders back with their suppliers when foreign substitutes are delivered. L'Ecrivain Derry and Sally-Anne Clarke's L'Ecrivain has been open for a phenomenal 31 years, and has held onto its Michelin star since 2003. It's still going strong, with Leslie Williams from the Irish Examiner saying in his last review that over 40 or so meals there he can barely remember a dud course, and the pre-theatre menu from 5-7pm for €55 is a great way to experience the French influenced cooking without dipping into the overdraft. Ananda Ananda , part of the Jaipur group, opened in Dundrum in 2008, and shortly after was said to have " redefined Indian food " for the Irish public. Fast forward 12 years and they're held in higher regard than ever, thanks to the 'Sunil Ghai years' (before he left to open Pickle on Camden Street), and then the arrival of Karan Mittal in 2018, whose food (the tasting menu in particular) is a journey through his life and childhood in India. If you think Indian food means chicken tikka masala and lamb korma you need to experience Mittal's roast Roscommon goat leg with fermented rice pancakes and chutneys, textures of tapioca and aged black lime sorbet. Manifesto Italian Manifesto in Rathmines opened in the mid-noughties, but current owner Luca Paduano took over in 2009, bringing his 'World Pizza Championship' winning pizzas to Dublin 6. Manifesto are as busy as ever, with locals complaining of not even being able to get a walk-in table mid-week - note to self, do not head to Rathmines without a booking. Staff can be curt, but the food is reliably excellent and the Italian wine list is 53 pages of pure joy. Chez Max, Dublin Castle Chez Max 's Dublin Castle location opened in 2005, with the Baggot Street site following in 2008 - the latter one of the city's most loved French restaurants until the shutters came down this time last year. The original site has keep the flag flying with its bouillabaisse, l'escargot and steak frites, and there are few nicer terraces for summer evening people watching.

  • Some Things We Ate This Week

    After this feature last week we went on the hunt for blood orange, and found success at Velvet Café in Portmarnock with this gorgeous blood orange frangipane with the most perfect, buttery pastry - Lisa Another incredible dinner at Allta . Revisited a few favourites including the charcuterie and bread with THAT shiitake miso butter, the chicken liver scarpinocc, smoked gubbeen cappelletti, and the barbecued lamb with seaweed pappardelle and cáis na tíre. A new one though was the scallop with hazelnut and gooseberry beurre blanc which was the standout of the night - Helen Very impressed with new vegan/veggie burger spot Flip in George's Street Arcade. Both the black bean and quinoa and the feta and sweetcorn were packed with flavour, the bun was seedy and soft, and we even liked the vegan mayo. Fast food without the ick afterwards - Lisa More blood orange, this time at Tang on Abbey Street where breakfast is always a joy. Their porridge with seasonal fruit (and banana), granola and homemade honey nut butter is so good that it's impossible to enjoy porridge at home for at least a week afterwards - Lisa A box of pastries from Il Valentino in Grand Canal Dock included this lovely raspberry financier, and their sandwich and bruschetta selection looks like it’ll be worth a return trip for lunch. It’s right next to what will be Nutbutter’s new location, a welcome return to the neighbourhood - Helen A trip to Uno Mas was the best one yet, with this spider crab and prawn rice straight out of a Spanish seaside town (so much flavour!) and that flan, which we'd never been lucky enough to try before, was other-worldly. One of the best things to eat in the city, no question. This curried pheasant pie from Bistro One in Foxrock was the business. It's also the subject of this week's once over, which you can read here - Lisa

  • This Week's Critic Reviews

    A very good weekend for Sprezzatura , who have two critics singing their pasta praises. In the Irish Times Catherine Cleary says they're serving food made from scratch "well and cheerfully", while "making it look easy". Their sustainability stance with no paper, drinks on tap and the option of off-setting your travel there by buying a tree was always going to be right up her street, but the gnocchi with tomato sauce, pine nuts and ricotta were "delicious, light and airy", tagliatelle with wild mushrooms "as woodsy as risotto" with "silky homemade pasta", and a "Jenga block" of duck and ham hock croquette was "excellent". The pappardelle with fennel sausage was "comforting" if "a little too chewy in the pasta and muddy in the sauce", and desserts of popcorn panna cotta and chocolate mousse were "fine". She gives Sprezzatura 8/10 saying they're serving "simple comforting staples well executed for a world in a hurry". Read her review here . More love from Leslie Williams in the Irish Examiner , who says Sprezzatura are "doing something genuinely different and exciting". He says their sustainability efforts are the best he's seen, and describes their small plates as "brilliant". Mortadella was "sweet and meaty", a "perfect" aubergine caponata made his Italian companion say "wow", and a duck and ham croquette was so good he wished they'd ordered a second. Non-traditional rigatoni carbonara "worked surprisingly well" with "nicely textured pasta", tagliatelle with wild mushrooms was "flavourful" with fine quality mushrooms, and the two desserts "rounded off the meal well". He describes it as "a bustling, great value, fresh pasta focused restaurant with supremely tasty food and a buzzy atmosphere", giving it 9/10 for food and 9.5/10 for value. (Review not currently online but should be soon here - in the meantime you can read our Sprezzatura once over here .) You'd definitely know it was pay day last week as Tom Doorley was in The Butcher Grill in Ranelagh eating €100 steak and drinking an €85 bottle of Bordeaux - but he wasn't paying, a very generous friend was (note: must find one of those). He says he didn't intend to review it but it was so good he felt he had to spread the word. Cocktails were "perfect", oysters "suitably saline" and served with proper shallot vinaigrette, and cauliflower and jalapeño croquettes were "crunchy" and "creamy" with a "tart heat". The aforementioned Tomahawk steak came rare and was "magnificent", with "very correct ... buttery tarragony Béarnaise sauce", and some of the best mashed potato he's had in ages. They had to take some meat home, passing on dessert, and he says the remaining steak was scoffed for breakfast. (Review not currently online) In the Business Post Gillian Nelis goes where critics rarely go, to one of the true enigmas of the Irish dining scene - Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud . Never before has a restaurant so highly rated by Michelin (it was Ireland's only two-star restaurant until last October when The Greenhouse was finally upgraded) been so ignored by almost every best restaurant/top 100/essential restaurants list - except the Business Post's 101 Best Restaurants . Uber peculiar. Gillian, clearly an RPG fan, thought her €168 lunch for two (three courses and a glass of wine each) is the "best-value" way to experience the "grand dame of Irish dining", calling her pheasant pithivier "beautifully rich", and cured salmon with tomato molasses and six different peppers "elegantly simple looking" but "involved so much time and effort". Both her and her friend went for veal cheeks for their main (reviewers really need to get more assertive with their dining mates) calling them "beautifully tender", with the veal jus the work of a "genius", and her dessert of îles flottantes had "a light-as-air" meringue, and flavours of wildflower honey and black pepper that she says she would be "a long time getting bored of". Tomás Clancy calls the wine list "the finest in the country", and you can read the full thing here . More free-wheeling with the expense accounts in the Irish Independent , where Katy McGuinness took herself off to The Greenhouse for a €370 lunch for two (matching wines included) which was "money well spent". She loved the "cheery, relaxed, unsnooty" atmosphere, as well as the "glorious canapés", including a Chantenay carrot sphere flecked with gold leaf and filled with grapefruit and smoked pike roe, and a beignet of 36-month aged Comté. A procession of dishes followed, each sounding better than the last, including the "signature" foie gras royale, steamed turbot "heady" with roasted yeast tapioca, maitake mushrooms and shaved winter truffle, and aged Anjou pigeon with kombu, bergamot, beetroot, cassis, radicchio and cherry blossom vinegar - "a winter stunner of a dish". Cheese was "magnificent", desserts the "prettiest", and she says she hasn't seen finer pastry work anywhere. She gives them 10/10 for food, ambience and value, calling it "world class food without faff or pretension". Read her review here . In the Sunday Times Niall Toner was in Variety Jones , almost a year to the day when his predecessor Ernie Whalley reviewed it - wonder if he checked the archives before booking that one in. At least the reviews are very different. While Whalley skulked out unimpressed, Toner thought it was brilliant, giving it what we think is his first ever 4.5 out of 5. Read his review here . Finally in the Sunday Independent Lucinda O'Sullivan has picked her "20 best romantic spots" for "wining, dining and popping the question" on Valentine's Day dining. Ten are in Dublin - Dax, The Dylan, Gigi in Ranelagh, Le Perroquet, Osteria Lucio, Sole, Suesey Street, The Legal Eagle, Volpe Nera and The Westbury Hotel, and if that all sounds a bit too nauseating find our anti-Valentine's day list here ). (Not currently online) More next week.

  • This Week's Critic Reviews

    In the Irish Times this week Catherine Cleary finally gets to Liath , and says "it puts the fun in fine dining". She brilliantly describes entering the tiny space in the deathly quiet of Blackrock market midweek as "like opening the small double door on a post-apocalyptic fine dining speakeasy", and the interior revamp as "less plucky start-up, more sleek, focused ambition". A succession of delicious dishes followed, including brown shrimp in fermented and charred sweetcorn with a chili miso and tarragon oil (below), a "zinger teaspoon of lemon done a gazillion ways", dots of oyster cream with crisp puffs of kelp crackers, dill, trout roe and the juice of Australian finger limes, that smoked eel and anchovy cone, and her favourite dish of the night - squid ink black dumplings filled with shiitakes, chanterelles and ceps in a mushroom, chilli and ginger tea. Her only "spoilt brattish" complaint centres around the use of foie gras in a venison dish which she says she's had enough of - "no more slithery discs of rich folk’s pate please. It’s like a belch of fetid breath from starry meals past" - (chef Damien Grey has promised 12 courses of foie next time she visits). Desserts were gorgeous, and she says the non-alcoholic drink pairing is "the best fun any non-drinking friend will have in a restaurant." We bet the wine is more fun. She says Liath is "beautiful and joyful, reverent and irreverent in equal measure and we need as much of those experiences as we can get", giving it 9/10. Read her review here . Read our Liath once over here . In the I rish Independent it's a review of two halves from Katy McGuinness when it comes to Mister S. Despite the dismal sounding headline - "Live-fire restaurant gives good Instagram but serves up a lacklustre meal" - she ends up scoring the food 8/10. It seems it was all going very well until the mains, with the burnt end spring rolls and lemongrass mayonnaise a good combination, the smoked chicken with romesco "tender" with smokiness "subtle but present", and the gambas in bisque butter on flatbread "full of gutsy flavour". A squash, shallot and Cashel blue tart topped with kale and cheese was also "excellent", but that's where the fun ends... She says the flavour of the pork tomahawk was hard to discern due to the "gloopy sauce" it was swimming in, wagyu beef was "a real disappointment, lacking in both flavour and the unctuous butter mouth-feel that you expect", and she even thought those famous miso roasties were "gross rather than dirty fabulous". Desserts underwhelmed too with a pavlova "lacking that essential chew" and a "pleasant" salted caramel tart featuring "over-hefty pastry". She suggests that her "lacklustre meal" could be down to the restaurant having "a bad day", but says that that the way things are are the moment restaurants just can't afford them. She gives them a somewhat puzzling 8/10 for food despite the many complaints, and 7/10 for value and ambience, making it five critics who loved it and two who didn't. Read her review here . Read our far more complimentary Mister S once over here . In the Irish Daily Mail Tom Doorley describes the dumplings at new opening " Little Dumpling " as "the real deal", "generous" and "in the broad Chinese style". Chicken satay dumplings were "good" with fresh lime leaf, spicy prawn and fish egg were "lively", and beetroot dumplings stuffed with prawn were "restrained" and "cleverly textured". He loved the xiao long bao (soup dumplings), with the prawn and pork ones "packed with flavour" and the roast duck and hoisin sauce "the dumpling of the night ... sensationally good". Spinach and wild mushrooms came in second, while carrot and kimchi were the least successful, and he concurs with everyone else that there should be a law against serving those nutella dumplings, but thankfully there isn't so that we can enjoy the "crunchy exterior" and "melting chocolate nuttiness". (Review not currently online but you can read our Little Dumpling once over here ) In the Sunday Times Niall Toner gives us a very brief review of Krewe on Capel Street, compromising of just two mains and a salad, which definitely breaks a cardinal rule of reviewing - three courses each or don't start writing (unless there are more than two of you). They went to Boco around the corner while they waited for a table, ordering some snacks and presumably ruining their appetites in the process. Naughty naughty. Read that here . In the Business Post Gillian Nelis says chef Conor Halpenny at The Square in Dundalk is one of "a coterie of exciting young chefs who are making their mark in their own restaurants". "Juicy and tender" buttermilk fried chicken came with "great" green curry mayonnaise, hake with braised baby gem and a sherry cream was "really well cooked", and perfect duck breast came with a "gorgeous" blood orange jus (God knows we love a bit of blood orange ). The standout sounds like a side of hispi cabbage with garlicky breadcrumbs and nduja ("an umami score of 11 out of 10"), but a dud dish came in the form "tiny and tough" mussels in an "overly salty" sauce. A rhubarb and custard choux bun took her right back to her Granny's table eating rhubarb tart, and she says "if Halpenny can work this kind of magic on cabbage and choux in his mid-20s, he is most definitely one to watch". Read her review here . In the Irish Examiner Joe McNamee was at "beloved local Leeside institution" Liberty Grill in Cork, bemoaning the fact that the "frenzied dining public's ceaseless pursuit of the latest 'new thing'" has caused it to "slip under the radar, generally for no better reason than it had lasted longer than a wet weekend." Sounds like it might be a bit more than that considering the nutburger was "lacking a little punch", the crab and white fish burger had "anaemic" seasoning, and the tomato and dressed leaves on the side of an "accomplished" tempeh and quinoa 'San Fran salad' were "lacklustre out of season imports". Best of all was the burger - "deeply flavoured beef ... one of the very best burgers around" - and the fries - "ever addictive", and he calls it "rock solid grub in a lovely location", scoring it 7.5/10 for food. (Review not currently online but should be soon here ) Finally in the Sunday Independent Lucinda O'Sullivan was on a "mini-tour" of the west, reviewing not one, not two, but three very fancy restaurants. First up was a South African wine dinner at Ashford Castle where "superb" food was cooked to match the wines, then onto Renvyle House in Connemara for their annual French wine weekend, including a "French Connection" banquet. Then it was onto The Galmont Hotel in Galway for dinner overlooking Lough Atalia, with a "good value" 'Wild Atlantic Way platter' and "superb" service. We got the press releases for the first two events and noted that for two people to attend both with accommodation would have cost €1000, then chuck in another €200+ for the Galmont, and by anyone's standards that's a pretty spenny weekend. Are the Indo's budgets larger than we thought? They did announce this week that they're introducing a paywall on the website. Maybe it's to pay for all the gallivanting. (Review not currently online) More next week.

  • 5 Things We Want To Eat This Week

    Restaurants run on a different calendar to the rest of the world. While most of us were back to work in early January, Instagram and Twitter became awash with restaurants gleefully announcing that they were closing for the night for their annual staff Christmas party, or some even closing for extended periods for their belated, and well-deserved, Christmas breaks. Refreshed and eager, the chefs are back at the pass and it looks like loads of them spent their time off dreaming up new dishes to lure us, and our much longed-for January pay packets, off our couches and onto their restaurant seats. 1) "Remy" From China Sichan Choosing to eat at a Chinese restaurant often means accepting the fact that you won’t be having dessert. China Sichuan is a rarity - a Chinese restaurant with seriously good food that has a dedicated and talented pastry chef. Karen Smith created this playful dessert to celebrate Chinese New Year and the Year of the Rat. Christened "Remy", it’s filled with caramel, cognac, sesame, and ginger, but you’ll have to be quick as it’s only on the menu until February 1st. 2) Truffled Mac And Cheese From Boco The gang at Boco on Bolton Street are experts at cooking with fire, mainly when making their wood-fired pizzas. They’ve added some new small plates to their menu this month, and this insanely cheesey truffled mac is on our February bucket list. It’s loaded with a mix of Toonsbridge fior di latte, truffled pecorino, Knockanore cheddar, and mascarpone for a serious injection of cheese oomph. 3) Smoked Salmon From Urbanity There’s definitely a stretch in the evenings and, while it hasn’t been upgraded to a 'Category 2 Grand Stretch' just yet, the glimmer of hope is definitely there. New from Urbanity in Smithfield, smoked salmon is served with soy and sesame-glazed tenderstem broccoli, confit potatoes, and a lemon and dill yogurt dressing in a dish that will add some much-needed sunshine to your life. 4) Roast Venison From Peploe's Peploe’s has been enjoying a surge in interest recently, thanks to a consistent stream of positive write-ups from reviewers on the food coming out of Graeme Dodrill’s kitchen. Several new menu additions were announced last week, but the one that we’ve not been able to stop thinking about is this roast Wicklow venison with red wine borlotti bean stew, cavolo nero, and a gherkin and walnut jus. 5) Milk And Honey Sundae From The Café At Shelbourne Social The team in Shelbourne Social haven’t just added new menu items, they’ve added an entire café which opened last week with surprisingly little fanfare. Aimed at the lunch and coffee crowd, the café opens each afternoon from Tuesday to Friday. The menu has a range of sandwiches, soups, salads, and lunch plates but the desserts caught our eye because of the heavy focus on soft serve ice-cream - which is totally fine by us. There are lots of options like lemon meringue, coffee float and blackberry shortcake, but this Milk and Honey Sundae with honeycomb, shortbread, fudge pieces, sea salt, and Irish honey looks like an upgrade on a much loved classic.

  • Some Things We Ate This Week

    Brunch at Two Pups always feels like you’re very far away from Dublin, in a really good way. French toast with orange and ginger labneh, speculoos crumb, and caramel was very tasty but more on the cakey side due to the thickness of the brioche. Finished off with a slice of very delicate custard tart and a really good flat white - Helen We popped into new opening Kitchen 85 and loved the Cantonese roast duck with it's crispy skin, properly rendered fat, and accompanying pancakes, plum sauce, spring onion and cucumber. A serious upgrade on your local takeaway - Lisa Anti-pasto in one of Dublin’s hidden gems - Caffe di Napoli on Westland Row, just next to Pearse Street Station. You might walk in thinking it’s just a cafe, but venture down the staircase at the back and you could be in Naples. We had their excellent antipasto which varies depending on what’s available, but this one had prosciutto, bresaola, mortadella, artichoke hearts, aubergine, and olives - with toasted bread on the side to soak up the last of the olive oil - Lisa Nutella dumplings at Little Dumpling were not what we thought would end up being their signature dish, but here we are. Our Instagram post on them might be described as having "blown up" and as much as we wanted to hate them we can't, they're dirty delicious. Read our Little Dumpling once over here - Lisa Midweek dinner in The Pigeon House in Clontarf, a lovely neighbour restaurant with a beautiful interior, started off with a croquette that was bursting with meaty, sticky duck. It was served with pear and a beetroot ketchup that lightened everything up perfectly - Helen How better to end a walk along Clontarf's wooden bridge than with a coffee and a cookie at Happy Out . Even better is when it's a Camerino , crispy, buttery, chocolate chip cookie - Lisa

  • Where To Eat Rhubarb And Blood Orange

    Every January, blood oranges and rhubarb pop up in abundance on our favourite restaurant menus, and right now the season's in full swing. The rhubarb you're seeing on menus at the moment is most likely to be 'forced rhubarb', a method of growing where the rhubarb is covered so they're in darkness. This forces them to grow faster to try to reach the light, making them ready to be picked earlier than nature would have delivered. When it comes to blood oranges, we're usually looking at Italy's finest, and while the season officially runs until April don't hang around. They'll be gone again before you know it. Here's where to eat both in Dublin right now. Rhubarb Doughnuts At Bistro One They got the rhubarb memo in Foxrock, where Bistro One are keeping it simple(ish) with a couple of juicy rhubarb stems atop a bed of sugary doughnuts and custard. Possibly the most January-indicative dessert around. Rhubarb And Custard Tart From Craft Craft pair their forced rhubarb with a Valhrona dulcey custard and a ginger espuma (a fancy foam), and it looks and sounds like it's worth the trip to Harold’s Cross. Cromane Oysters With Rhubarb Vinegar At Allta Proof that rhubarb is more than dessert material, Allta serve their Kerry oysters with a house made rhubarb vinegar. Turns out zippy rhubarb plus saline oysters are meant to be. Mulberry Garden's Rhubarb Donut And White Chocolate Mousse More doughnuts in Donnybrook. Mulberry Garden is always worth the trip, but when oozing rhubarb doughnut hit the menu there’s no time like the present. This one's filled with rhubarb puree and accompanied by poached rhubarb, creme fraiche, meringue, and white chocolate mousse to offset the tartness of the rhubarb. Chapter One's Poached Rhubarb Coming alongside a sheep’s milk and oat ice-cream, the latest creation from Chapter One makes us want to eat haute-dessert all the time. A sour rhubarb sorbet features alongside poached rhubarb, strawberry chocolate and just a few gold flakes (because it obviously wasn’t luxe enough). Daddy's Blood Orange Bakewell This one would have made it through for the alliteration alone. On the counter last week, Daddy’s in Rialto made use of our favourite citrus fruit in a bakewell tart. Coupled with nuts and lots of butter we imagine this didn’t stay out for long Volpe Nera's Seabream And Blood Orange Crudo Chef Barry Sun’s latest early evening menu in Volpe Nera , Blackrock, sees seabream crudo paired with blood orange, coriander and pickled fennel, and it looks like the perfect palate kickstarter for whatever else is to come. Blood Orange And Chicory Salad From Tang Coming with toasted almond flakes, mixed leaves and a tangy blood orange dressing this salad from our Dawson and Abbey Street favourite Tang is a nice savoury use of blood orange rounds, and it's vegan for anyone bravely persisting with veganuary. Gertrude's Blood Orange Soda If you’ve never had a really cold can of San Pellegrino blood orange with ice, you’re missing out on one of life’s sweetest carbonated drinks. So when we saw that 3fe's Gertrude were powering forward with a homemade version, we made it our mission to check it out, and while not as sweet as San Pellegrino's version, we definitely prefer this. Riba's Blood Orange Panna Cotta A boomerang of this wobbling dessert from Riba, Stillorgan jumped off our Insta feed this week. As desserts go, panna cotta is one that needs a rejuvenation, having sat on dessert menus for around a century, and blood orange makes for an interesting take. They're also serving it as a starter with Iona beetroot, Fivemiletown goat's cheese, toasted hazelnuts and golden beet purée. Make hay while the the blood oranges shine.

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